Teken

Is there a blue LED on the rear next to the port A?

If you turn the hardware upside down the white sticker will indicate ISY994i ZW/IR Pro. If the Z-Wave dongle is present there may also be a blue LED on the back next to the Port A.

You’ll have to finagle it a little to open up. Once open you will see a small bubble gum memory stick looking card / dongle which should be attached to a very thin black wire with a round headed connector. Where did you purchase this hardware from and does the invoice state it’s a Z-Wave model? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Open it up and confirm the Z-Wave card is inside. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What does HELP -> About say?!? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe in those 15+ years we'll smash some cold ones together and have some good laughs!

I'm sure wireless at some point will be super duper but for me using a hard line within the infrastructure reduces interference which translates to higher reliability. Wireless at this point simply can't offer the same consistent bandwidth and throughput vs hard line. I can't tell you how many times going into a home and being asked to trouble shoot WiFi related issues for people. I always start when do you cook?!? This 9X out of 10 results in a completely blank stare with a WTF??? Again, I reiterate my question as to when do they cook . . . They blurt out some random time like 5:XX and I go OK *Go do whatever you do on that fancy cell / tablet*. As they do I walk into the kitchen and fire up the microwave and the client always runs out saying *Yeah it just happen again did you see it* I just shake my head and help them find a channel that isn't so prone to the microwave interference . . .

Great add on's and with any Smart Home being able to monitor the environment is critical for a successful deployment. Taking the time to map out where environmental sensors for bathrooms, bedrooms, and common areas. Results in a smarter residence while offering you critical insight as to how best to manage energy consumption vs personal comfort. Wiring for ambient light, humidity, and temperature isn't a nice to have but a must have for long term comfort and insight. If you intend to employ POE within the residence to power different hardware don't skimp on that POE Switch! Planning ahead to have the bulk of the A/V, network, security, and home automation installed into a central location is key. This helps out in the long term maintenance and management while reducing electronic clutter throughout the home. Don't forget to install the appropriate sized UPS to protect all of that expansive investment along with proper venting and cooling. This would be a good time to install a quiet and high flow (CFM) exhaust fan in that central closet. Some have incorporated the proper ducting for the central air conditioning to help keep things cool which is a great idea. But, this does not supersede the need to have temperature regulated exhaust fan to guard against over heating. This closet should obviously be on a dedicated circuit to reduce possible line noise. Keep in mind there should be no less than two independent (outlets) using circuit breakers on opposing legs to balance the loads. From there using any of hundred PDU's / power strips is fine to help offer electricity. I personally use Enterprise grade (managed PDU's) to allow me to have remote access (IF) and when needed to turn on, turn off, cycle power. You'll never regret spending the money once you need to cycle power to a locked up device!

I agree CAT6A shielded cable is better and the only downside to CAT6A, CAT7, CAT8 is the thicker cabling.

Will there be any sort of collaboration and integration with those using the Brultech Green Eye Monitor (GEM) system??

Since this is essentially going to be a gut out of the interior I would encourage you to sit down pen to paper with the wife. Determine where you believe core devices and services will be and insure conduit with a pull string is present. Install multiple runs wiring for Ethernet, Speaker, Low Voltage, Coaxial, HDMI thought out. As noted if in the worse case scenario you simply don't know what the future holds for a specific area, room, zone, conduit is your friend. In 2020 there is absolutely no reason to run anything less than CAT6 Ethernet cabling . . . If finances aren't an issue than spend the extra for CAT7 / CAT8 and Fiber throughout the building. 4K content like 1080P will be common in the next four years along with 8K which should be 5-8 years. All three types of cabling is shielded so this negates RFI / EMI to a large extent and fiber just can't be beat in terms of shear bandwidth along with all the security and safety that comes with fiber optics. No possible induced RFI, EMI, and Lightning damage . . . Even though coaxial has seen a dramatic slow down in terms of install you simply can't beat having this as a backup for audio, video, and Internet. Wire all the rooms using *Keystone* cover plates as this will allow you to use almost any keystone insert from IR, RJ11, RJ12, RJ45, USB, RCA, HDMI, VGA, Fiber, Coaxial, 2.5 / 3.5 mm. Using high quality CAT6 / CAT7 / CAT8 cabling almost any source can be sent down the wire. Even though POE camera systems are all the rage don't skimp on installing power and signal wires for legacy camera systems. This offers flexibility on the hardware you can purchase and install no matter the situation. It should be noted that if you're not familiar with wiring insure any wire that runs inside an interior wall is CM / CMR rated to do so and is solid copper at least 23 AWG. Do not fall prey to low priced CCA ( Copper Clad Aluminum ) Ethernet cable as this type of cable is NOT in wall rated for fire safety no matter what is printed on the box. In most homes there are dedicated circuits for sump, furnace, fridge, dishwasher etc. Plan to have a few dedicated outlets for the 994 Series Controller and 2413S PLM to avoid power line noise issues. Given most homes run a combination of 14-2, 14-3, 12-2, 12-4 Romex wiring for lighting and outlets. Wiring all of the outlets for 12-2 / 12-3 Romex is a small investment you can't beat having in place. Lastly, invest the money and time to install Roxul fireproof insulation within all of the interior walls as doing so will reduce noise, lower energy bills with respect to heating and cooling and God forbid will contain and slow down the spread of a fire. Roxul is made of a by product of metal slag and so does not absorb water so will not mold / mildew. Insects and rodents will not nest or consume Roxul so you'll never have to worry about this problem. Rock On . . .

Right mouse click and select group. [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you decide to go with Insteon for home automation. Completing the 4 Tap Beacon test as outlined in the full users manual to insure all phases are coupled / bridged is paramount. As many condos are three phase powered so no guarantee everything is on the same phase. In a residential home it’s single split phase so only two sides to worry opposed to three. Since this is new install nothing stopping you from trying out Z-Wave. No worries about different phases but you do need to insure a solid Z-Wave mesh. If you go down this route only purchase 500 Series Z-Wave hardware for all the benefits of range, encryption, power management, etc. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

True, but I do have to take issue with respect to our agreement with one another. [emoji1785] You believe I agree with you when in reality I’m just always right! [emoji1787] I simply can’t argue with myself if you’re just a mini-me!! [emoji869][emoji851] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Differing opinions in any discussion is what brings insight to all. Finding a balance of offering facts vs personal views is key for many. Ultimately, the voice of one bolsters the voice of many. Losing one voice diminishes the whole. [emoji869][emoji110] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Jeff, Can you offer a little more detail regarding assigned users names?!?

Since the ISY Series Controller has the ability to present pop up messages. Wouldn’t it make sense to have that system provide the required links and resources. If it can’t be done in the short term due to limited resources and because the Polyisy is going to be the default controller. Add it to the feature list for that new system down the road! [emoji106] I didn’t know paying a bill would turn out to be such a sh^t fest for some?!? [emoji1787] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, that was the portal page I intended to share with my last reply - thanks! [emoji106] All of the relevant information is there. I should quickly note within the ISY Series Controller (for some) selecting portal tab also displays various personal details about that controller. I’ve never been able to get it to work on my two systems but know others have. It has no material impact on what the group is discussing here but is related. [emoji3516] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree industry best practices is to never click on a hyper link or open an attachment from a unknown sender or ones you know - but not expecting. However, in my case the email alias I use for my account is dedicated and unique and don’t receive unsolicited emails. The renewal email from UDI also includes the unique UUID for the controller which in my environment is near impossible to know outside of UDI. One can validate the same expiration date via the portal which I did. Checking the sender via CNAME / MX records isn’t very hard along with viewing the full email headers and the hops (IP) taken to reach my final destination. All of this can be validated by any of the dozens of services that can confirm a legitimate sender / service provider. All standard fair in my line of work. Regardless, if in doubt one should always request a confirmation through formal public channels using resource links they have high confidence in. [emoji106] Nothing to see here . . . No nefarious acts lurking in wait. Just a friendly reminder of a subscription service which I only have 3. Meaning two subscriptions I have are UDI related. The remaining one is for a security service which comes due every three years. [emoji869] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Larry, Appreciate the feedback and sample program but was really hoping for a more elegant way to accomplish this count down / count up timer. I have too many variables running right now and my little box is maxed out in terms of processing time. Perhaps one of the really skilled members could slap together a Node Server that could use the power of the Polyisy to be that timer instead. Really looking forward to seeing the Polyisy Pro replacing the 994 Series Controller . . .

I have ceiling light which comes on and turns off at the 30 minute mark. I would like to integrate Julie U.S. to give a one minute verbal warning prior to the light turning off so my girl friend can tap on the button again for another 30 minutes. Is anyone doing something similar where something is on a count up timer and another with a count down timer? I'm wondering if a Node Server exists where a count up vs count down could be incorporated into programs. I already have a double tap program that keeps the ceiling light on perpetually if required.

Don’t come to me with problems . . . Come to me with solutions!! [emoji3516][emoji2957][emoji106] Got it . . . [emoji1787] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For the benefit of others I received an expiry subscription notice (email) a few days ago. That email provided links to all the required information and payment system. I don’t believe anything was missing as it literally took 10 seconds to click, submit, and pay. One of the few subscription services I don’t feel like I’m being robbed or offered nothing! [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Going off rough memory there were a couple barriers a decade ago which I vaguely recall was their new database, new guy, and production sticker. This was similar to the tac switch issue where at the time the company had this mentality of deny everything until it exploded into the public domain. There people who worked the phones that should have never been allowed to be customer facing. It's like they took the warranty claim personally and made me feel like I was taking food out of their child's mouth?!? On any other day probably - LOL . . .

How about receiving a piece of hardware that says 0100 in in the 1990's!! 01 could be the first week or month but there is no way to understand what 00 is?!? Now, if you said this part came in the 2000's - OK, that could easily seen as 2000. But there is no freaking 00 week, and you can't have 00 in 199X! Don't ask me how I know this would be a sh^t show later on . . .