Teken

I’ve been tracking this company for several years since their initial release: https://myiblinds.com/collections/frontpage What attracted me to this is the fact it works with existing blinds. The secondary reason was Z-Wave support. I don’t recall if any member is using this brand / model but you might consider this on your short list. If you pull the trigger please do consider offering your personal experience and feedback here. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not a problem with 99999999 dual band devices bra! [emoji1787][emoji106][emoji2956][emoji851] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Plastic JB?!? [emoji1787] You silly Americans!! [emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you or anyone have any sort of energy monitoring available? Very curious to see what this box consumes while idle, running, and when under load test. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got it! [emoji106] For those who have this unit I would be curious to learn if this unit has a defined battery check. If so, what interval is it and what kind of load is placed on said UPS. Typical enterprise units place a 30% load for 30-60 seconds while it disconnects from the main line. Doing so replicates a true outage while under load. While also checking the hardwares ability to recharge without fault. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to be clear you saw the unit begin charging how many times since its initial deployment? [emoji848] My expectation is the unit would come partially drained due to storage. Once installed the unit would obviously begin the recharge process. I don’t expect the unit to disconnect from line power unless it’s simply doing a load test like many other UPS do to insure proper function and operation. On a related tangent is the case sealed or does it have screws to open the case? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Either voltage is fine given the wide range. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now you know there is a serial connection failure. Has there been any power outages in the past? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t see an image capture from the tools drop down showing the 2413S PLM from the Admin Console. [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Given the environment in Arizona everything installed outside is suspect-able to heat. Electronics don’t like heat and more specifically capacitors not properly rated will dry out and expand. Smartlabs continues to use some of the cheapest capacitors known to man in almost every device they make. [emoji52] I can’t say you’ll have better luck using the micro module. But, given how small it is it can be placed anywhere on the same power line. I don’t know if your main breaker is inside / outside. But ideally you would install such a switch inside by the breaker using any of the Insteon solutions. Some use the DIN modules to home run many light fixtures for that clean look to a central location like the basement / main panel. If the main breaker is perhaps in the garage that might help? Than again an uninsulated garage can be just as hot if not hotter inside during the summer! [emoji1785] As an aside there was one install I did where the heat was also an issue. Like you he was replacing switches every couple of years. He finally took my suggestion and purchased a few extra during the promo events and replaced all of the capacitors with low ESR, High Temp, and Extended Runtime. The switches have been in place for more than five years in the garage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Robert, Please show me a image capture of the 2414S PLM Status while everything is connected from the Admin Console. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would suspect you’re correct that heat has killed the switch. My dear friend BBB who also resides in Arizona had shown me how crazy hot it gets there. I would check when you purchased the switch to see if it’s still within the 2 year warranty period if so great. If not, for long term Insteon use I would install either a micro switch, ILL, or switch at the service panel. You would simply leave a dumb switch in place in the on position. While the now extra Insteon switch by the service panel (assuming) it’s inside and in a controlled environment will live out its days cooler and longer. Just my $0.00000001 for long term use and savings. [emoji106][emoji869] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trust me - everyone’s been there! [emoji106][emoji1787] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have the wrong UI. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

100% About possible induced EMF from lightning or from ground strike. You just can’t go wrong using fibre to connect mission critical infrastructure. No worries about noise, interference, data loss, or consistent throughput. Just make sure to use the proper in ground armour cable if this is in an exposed trench. If it’s in a solid conduit you could cheap out and use CM / CMR rated cable for better protection. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emoji106][emoji869] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update failed! Check polisy logs for details. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=23986&share_tid=29341&share_pid=285440&url=https://forum.universal-devices.com/index.php?/topic/29341-Update-failed%21-Check-polisy-logs-for-details%2E/page__view__findpost__p__285440&share_type=t Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m going to keep this simple. Hammer for nailing. Rock can also nail - why would you?!? [emoji848][emoji15] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1. ISY Series Controller: Power it down by unplugging power. 2. 2413S PLM: Plug the RJ45 Ethernet Cable into the correct port on the back. Plug 2413S PLM unit to 120 VAC power and wait 10 seconds. 3. ISY Series Controller: Power up the controller and wait for it to settle down. 4. Admin Console: Login to the Console and select tools and select PLM Status. If the 2413S PLM is connected and seen the Admin Console will indicate connected and list out the firmware etc. Given you have wiped the system in various steps - good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let’s keep this simple remove the bulb and replace it with a known working one. [emoji15] What happens? [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Give the night light series add on a try just to confirm. If placing a minimum of 5 watt resistive load doesn’t solve the issue. If you have a Insteon plug-in filter linc. Add that on in case it’s line noise. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Robert, Almost all Insteon devices require a minimum load to operate correctly. You can test to see if this is the issue by simply adding something else on that line. If adding say a night light in line with the LED strip allows the dimmer to operate correctly this affirms the minimum load is not present just with the LED strip. If you don’t need any sort of dimming you may find using the on-off module operates much better. Let us know what happens adding a night light or any load. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Truth be told if people were truly worried about security a consumer appliance would not be connected and integrated with their primary home security system. UDI is very clear in their TOS as to not connecting or expecting their appliances to be counted on for health & safety. There are just some things in life that simply need to be run independent and isolated from other core systems. [emoji52] To be fair, if the security industry as a whole just took some real time to update their hardware and make a concerted effort to integrate with current home automation there would be very little need for DIY / 3rd party integration. Unfortunately, for those companies that had the vision decades ago to offer such home automation features they saw very little adoption by the mass public. [emoji3525] This same problem continues to plague the CCTV industry. You literally have companies asking for thousands of dollars using 1990 - 2010 technology! [emoji107][emoji90][emoji90] Imagine having a company tell you their super duper nuclear 1 MP camera will set you back $2K! [emoji2957] You have to be retarded to think you’re going to sell millions or make long term profit going this route. The only saving grace has been 3rd tier companies forcing the main players to do better as the others have offered more for less. As of this writing 4K IP video is obtainable for the general public only because the Chinese have pushed the industry to keep up! Obviously none of this addresses quality / standards but truly believe there will be a time where both will be seen. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I agree in the photo above it would replicate the same action. In the smart remote panel there was something different which didn’t lend to this being possible. Don’t recall what, but for me, it didn’t matter as I tapped off at the GDO directly. No extra battery remote, no dumb door bell, no battery extra cost! [emoji106][emoji1787] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As Brian noted up above some people have tapped off the smart display instead of using a dumb remote / door bell activator. The smart display in past iterations don’t have a simple open / close contact and is managed by a micro computer which sends secure comms to the GDO. Unfortunately going this route causes the smart display to reset and cause the famous VCR blinking clock! [emoji1787] For me this wasn’t a big deal but also didn’t bother going this route and instead tapped directly to the GDO in parallel which didn’t cause the smart display to reset. [emoji106] There’s nothing stopping anyone to use the dumb remote / door bell style to integrate with their HA. I just didn’t go this route because it was a easy fix and didn’t compromise the secure connection. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk