Teken

Its been so long I may get this wrong so bare with me. The black jumper enabled a secondary feature which was rarely ever used by people. For the life of me it had to do with offering a different way as to how the sensor would react / perform when the jumper was removed?!? Regardless, Smartlabs removed that feature as you can see because there is simply two holes in the board. As to why the date code is printed that way - moron! If you have been a customer of Smartlabs / Smarthome you will have seen no less than eight different ways these idiots have *Tried* to indicate the production date. The reason why this is such a heated issue is because (IF) and when you try to make a warranty claim. If the support staff is new he / she would quickly deny the same due to the fact the production date could be misconstrue to be another year and be 999999999999999 years out of warranty!

Hi Grumpy, You have attained God status in my eyes!! I was not able to get the sensor into the flashing state you noted up above. But, the take away for me was to remove the black jumper and place the unit into linking mode. Once done proceeded to delete the hardware and add the same back - success! 3 nodes appear in the AC . . . Having been installing Insteon for more than ten years this little trick wasn't known to me or ever used! I thank you so very much in taking the time to reply back with such a great solution! You Rock & Know It!!

I recall this bug came up somewhere in this thread but don't know where it is. Just installed a 2843-222 Open - Close sensor today and the the Admin Console shows only two nodes. Open / Heart Beat and no Close node?!? I tried using start linking & new device to add the hardware without much success. This hardware was produced in 35 week of 2014 revision 1.9 / v.40 firmware. I grabbed another 2843-222 which has a production date of 2014 no week listed, revision 1.9 / v.40 firmware. Used the same two steps and only two nodes appear (Open / Heart Beat). I decided to use the Link Management -> Link Sensor -> Open/Close Sensor. The AC presented the 2843-222 listing and I added the Insteon ID / Name. Success - All three nodes appeared in this one specific unit! I went back and tried the same thing on the first unit and it simply won't add the 3rd (Close) node to the Admin Console?!? I'm going to complete a factory hard reset and try all three methods again to see what happens. Lastly, for the sake of trying I purposely selected the 2421 TriggerLinc option just to see what would happen - same issue. As an aside I don't recall why the AC continues to list the newer Open-Close sensors as a 2421 TriggerLinc?!? Anyone . . .

You know in 2020 there hasn't been any thing to argue with you about?!? Back on point, if this was me I would be going the route of hybrid smart panel / your flavor of home automation hardware of choice whether it be Insteon, Z-Wave, ZigBee. My long term plans are to migrate to this sort of hardware model as it offers higher reliability without issues with power line or any sort of RF technology. BLE is for stupid people . . . WiFi is just for the lazy . . . RF based Insteon, Z-Wave, ZigBee is just a compromise . . . Wired direct and managed by the smart panel is 100% bullet proof and isn't impacted by noise makers, signal suckers, bridging, filtering, etc.

1. Bridging / Coupling: Complete the 4 tap beacon test to confirm both sides of the single split phase electrical system is properly coupled. The full users manual outlines how to complete this test and what to look for in each hardware device. 2. Noise Makers / Signal Suckers: Unplug all devices in the home and see if there is an improvement. 3. Level 3 Logging: Watch the error logs and see how many hops are left when you actuate any hardware. Zero hops left means some form of interference is present in the best case or failing hardware - worst case. In most instances you will see 1 hop left in and ideal environment you will see 2 hops left. 4. Scene Test: Use the scene test to confirm how the hardware reacts when activated. Watch the level 3 logs to see what comm issues are preset and how many hops are left as outlined in step 3. 5. Loads: If you're able to turn something on but the same hardware either is slow to turn off, doesn't turn off, this is a load issue. If you have any LED bulbs and you can see flickering, strobing, or hear hum, buzz, hiss, remove them. Any cell charger no matter the brand is a possible culprit. 6. Filtering: Any electronic device should be placed on a Insteon Filter Linc. For 120 / 240 VAC hardwired devices you can purchase the X10 Pro 15 / 20 amp inline filters.

Agreed, but love to have the option nonetheless! [emoji110] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ISY Reboot: There isn’t a (present) method to hard boot the ISY Series Controller. You can use an external device like a web based remote switch, egg timer, etc. Lastly, please add your voice to add this feature in the next generation of firmware and Polyisy. [emoji106] As noted by Mr.Bill the system has a default 3:00 AM Query All. You can add the same to a program receive the latest status. If a device not showing the correct status this can be caused by a device that has bad / missing links, noise makers, signal suckers, bad 2413S PLM. NOTE: You can not query any battery operated devices. You will also lose the current state every time you reboot the system. [emoji3516] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You would be better served going with a smart service panel. This assumes your region is supported by the various makers. Going this route negates RF issues as the bulk of them connect via WiFi / Ethernet. Lastly, you will never have to worry about communication issues as the system is managed by the service panel! [emoji106][emoji869] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

32 GB Max, Class 10, The rest doesn’t matter as the controller will never see or use it. The only thing worth spending money on is for a High Endurance Micro SD card. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome and look forward to whatever you find out. I’ll circle back if I ever find that other rod / blinds controller. I figured looking at my YouTube history would be so easy until I realized due to the (COVID-19) all I have been doing is watching dozens of videos for hundreds of projects! [emoji1787][emoji2957] You would figure the blasted infomercial would come up sometime?!? [emoji35][emoji107] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There were at least two Kickstarter projects which used the existing rod and cable. The first one was a failure but had huge potential called flik something. The other was called Axxis I believe and they are as far as I am aware still in business. I’m trying to find the other model for you as they come up in YouTube all the time. But as always right when you need to see the stupid infomercial it doesn’t!! [emoji1785][emoji35] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Light weight . . . [emoji1787][emoji869][emoji2357][emoji851] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All you need to do is unplug the 2412S PLM. Insert the Ethernet cable to the serial port on the ISY. The other end to the new 2413S and apply power. Insure the network cable is also attached to the Ethernet jack in the rear. Take the 12 VDC and insert in the back and apply 120 VAC power (outlet). Wait for the system to come on line and calm down. Login to the AC and simply select the replace PLM. Do not select the DELETE PLM! If you have a pro version of the ISY Series Controller select (enable) the delay battery write. Doing so will allow the system to update the new 2413S PLM without prompting you endlessly to place each battery device into learning mode. Once this entire process is done. You will place a single battery operated device in to learning / programming mode. Go to the device tree and right mouse click on the green (1011) icon and select write update. This will take a very long time so do this on a weekend. Have a large cup of your favourite drink. And sit back and wait . . . [emoji869][emoji1787][emoji2957] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So long as it says centre positive and it fits anyone will do. The more amperage the better but given the ISY Series Controller is so low power one amp is fine too. I would use the 12 VDC as this is what is being shipped to new UDI customers. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You may use any 5~30 VDC centre positive power supply. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have only three options with respect to the 2413S PLM: - Hard reset = Full Erase & Reset - Erase PLM = Deletes all programming - Restore PLM = Erases all existing programming and restores all settings & programming held by the ISY Series Controller Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pull the 2413S PLM out of the wall for at least 10 seconds. Press the black set button and continue to hold it while you insert it back into the 120 VAC line. This will erase everything in the unit! But, why?!? [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This filter was intended for X10 so will operate fine with Insteon. Whether it helps filter out the noise depends upon the frequency along with magnitude / intensity of the same. You have nothing to lose by trying. Just remember you can always try two. One at the load and one at the switch if needed. This has helped a few people in the past. But make sure you complete a hop test and scene test to gauge success. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you tried installing a filter at the fan? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If possible could you provide a photo of the current inner workings of the blinds in question? There is another brand / model I saw on YouTube and perhaps this one might fit your needs. [emoji2369] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Personally, unless the goal was just to try something new such as Z-Wave. My focus would really be placed on identifying root cause that is impacting your Insteon network. [emoji3516] The questions I would ask someone is what is the problem? When did it start. Is it persistent and repeatable. What trouble shooting have you done thus far. What new electronic items have you purchased that may correlate with the start of the problem. Have you confirmed proper bridging / coupling via the 4 tap beacon test as outlined in the full users manual. Are there noise filters in place where and when needed. What kind of loads are in place now and have you removed them to see if the problem goes away. If you move the same load to another circuit does the problem follow. Have you reviewed the level 3 logs to determine possible error codes and clues. While viewing the same how many hops are left out of the possible 3. Have you completed a scene test to gauged response times. All of these basic questions if followed and taken off the list will narrow down the possible culprits or at least strike off something that’s not relevant. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All you need to do is order and install the Z-Wave card from UDI. Next flash your controller with the correct firmware. Lastly, follow the steps in the new hardware as to how to add the new device. If you decide to go down this road purchase a Z- Wave Plus device to get the most out of the card and the new network. You’ll need a few (120 VAC) repeaters to bolster the network. So buy something that has dual use like maybe the doorbell?!? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emoji1787][emoji106][emoji851] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's so awesome to hear along with the fact the ISY Series Controller had no issues adding them. Any other issues you could share with would you purchase again if you had to do it all over again??