Teken

Nope, you will need to sit and watch for awhile. In my case it's either very apparent or not. The not is due to change in seasons. More specifically I have lots of I/O from power, temperature, water, voice, programs which are updated based on environmental in the home. When it's super hot / cold there are hundreds of programs and variables firing off. That amount of activity seems to be locking up my controller about 24~48 hours in. [emoji35] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If we assume this is caused by programs a nice diagnostic tool besides the level 3 logs open and viewing is to watch the status colors of each program / folder . If you see rapid changes in color like it's strobing. That is a key indicator that specific program / folder needs attention. I've been fighting with the very same issue here. [emoji853] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, absolutely that was one of the first things that came to mind. As it's a low cost, simple, and bullet proof design. I only went this route because all of the hardware is in place now and no out of pocket expense was needed. If I can't figure out what is wrong with this freezer this week I'll toss a coin and either purchase the egg timer / thermostat assembly. Based on Google search the timer is much easier to purchase. [emoji106] For what ever reason the companies that carry this specific TSTAT won't ship to Canada [emoji1063]!! [emoji35] In 2017 and global world e-commerce I am truly speechless! [emoji55] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm going to make this simple less possible failure points to worry about. I just tested the simple and basic program apostolakisl offered here and modified it for a short run to test. Works as expected and will include the 1 wire temperature as a fail over in case my timing isn't correct. Given its going to be running for 50 minutes and waiting one hour this mimics what the freezer was doing before it stopped operating correctly. As an aside I have to say with out this kind of technology: ISY Series Controller, Insteon, Autelis, Brultech GEM, none of this would have been possible. I'll circle back with more information as it comes in ~ Thank you all very much! Apostolakisl <-- As always thank you for your time and knowledge.

This program looks very good I will fire it up on a shorter period to test. Will this program actually initiate from a cold boot with out a (IF) statement? I know you added a run at start up ( will test to make sure ) but is there anything else that would cause it not to run?

Based on your example if I want it to run for one hour and turn off. But want it to come back on an hour later I should change that repeat to say 1 hours?

It could be the program didn't fire off, or turn off as expected. It could be the device didn't actually turn on / off for what ever COMM issue. It could be there was a power failure and the ISY Series Controller had to reboot etc. Apologies for the lack of detail as I didn't want to muddy the waters with back ground information that wasn't too important. Long story short there is a freezer that was defrosted. Upon cleaning it all up and loading it up with over 150 lbs of fresh chicken the freezer won't stop running! The freezer cools the contents very well and there is a 1 wire sensor and a remote sensor that confirms its super cold inside. Never mind the chicken are now rock hard because the freezer was running none stop for the last 8~9 days! The door gaskets are good, this is a manual stand up GE freezer, and based on the model and schematic there appears to be only one unit that controls the temperature. It appears to have a simple bulb style thermistor which ties directly to the mechanical temp dial. Changing the dial from 1~X doesn't seem to force this thing to stop. It just keeps on running and getting colder so I doubt its a freon leak. Then again I'm not a appliance professional so what the hell do I know! There doesn't appear to be any so called freon bubble on the coils. All of the grills / coil assembly *appear* to be evenly cold, frosted, and what not. Which lots of on line forums says that's an indicator of a leak, blockage, etc. I obviously can't check the sealed compressor or measure the levels because I don't have the tools to do so. Any Freezer pro's or those who have past experience by all means chime in. As stated early on this is a stop gap until I can either identify the problem or worst case throw money at it and buy the thermostat assembly which comes with the temp probe. I honestly don't know how defrosting a freezer can cause it to fail . . .

No schedule time it simply has to come on and run for what ever time I feel is correct. Then start back up at what ever interval that's needed. So for example turn on and run for 1 hour. After that hour turn off and wait say two hours and turn back on and repeat that whole cycle over and over.

Hello Stu, Show me your program idea and let's see if it fits the bill. I'm really hoping to resolve this issue correctly in the near future. ☹️ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would believe the PSU as the primary culprit over the ISY Series Controller. Replace it and see what happens. The two most common failure and when I say common it's not very common. But the 3rd party PSU and Micro SD Card which neither UDI makes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I need a program that will turn on an appliance for X hours then stop. Then start back up X hours later. This program would operate like this forever and survive a reboot. Extra marks for checking if the program ran a few minutes ago should there be something amiss not accounted for. This is a band aid measure until I can obtain the parts. Thank You! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Fred, I did purchase a small batch a long time ago. I used four sets myself and since this thread was created. The last eight kits were shipped out to other forum members here in Canada. I guess purchasing two dozen sets would have been ideal! [emoji38] Considering it was a lot cheaper 2-3 years ago along with being able to obtain all of the direct replacement components. [emoji853] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Normally this is caused by rapid network resources / programs. Disable all programs and activate one at a time until it faults out. It should be noted rebooting the system will cause the queue full to take some time to fill up / show an error. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

*Best Practices* for me and many others has always been to place clear tape over the Insteon Address. Followed with taking a picture of the hardware and saving it in a secure location. In the past I would also take the PDF (Full Manual) and append the Insteon address, install date, and production / revision. Some have also added the same information into the ISY Series Controller in the *Notes* section. Simply right mouse click on that node and enter the details you feel are relevant. Rock On . . .

What does the front sticker say is the production date and revision of this switch? Older switch linc timers actually had no air gap set button.

I'm not sure If I understand what the problem is? Can you maybe rephrase it a little better? On the surface I would be using *Control* as the (IF) condition but this assumes the door is open and closed during that time period. If you use *Status* the last state or any other elements can cause it to run like a program etc. Lastly, are these incandescent lights that are turned on at 1%? I've only seen a handful of LED lights that do in fact turn on and dim to 1%. If so would like to know what the brand and model is LED assuming that's what is in use.

That's pretty cool to know I have a custom email alert sent to me indicating what sensor is low. Julie U.S. follows up with telling me verbally what sensor is low also. She will continue to inform me until I change the battery every 24 hours. I'm working on a *Digital Reader Board* to do the very same. The long term goal is to have all notifications, alerts, warnings, and emergency messages displayed on the network reader board.

Hello Phillip, Can you provide the program so we can see how it works. Also what kind of load is present: Incandescent, halogen, CFL, LED, ballast, other? Have you noticed any lights that turn on fine but have problems turning off? This can be seen as delayed reaction meaning you press the off position and there is a delay from half a second to more than a few seconds. Lastly, are these lights in a scene vs all being controlled by a program(s)? Ideally all of the lights should be placed in a scene and those scenes are called by program(s).

Doh, yes use the two swirling arrows icon. Was half asleep when I replied!

Hello Chris, You need only press and hold the white (bottom set) button until the unit begins to flash red. That will place it into programming mode. In the Admin Console select auto discovery. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You want to use *Control* instead of Status. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, in all seriousness I really do hope yours last well past the two year mark. I know the very first time having to do the whole *2413S PLM Replacement* wasn't the best of times. It doesn't get easier on the second, third, forth, etc. It just gets you super pissed off and angry . . .

Did you mark down when you physically installed the 2413S PLM? Very eager to see if you make it past two years and XX months. Guess you'll need to circle back in a few ~ LOL

Considering almost every capacitor has used the same brand and value its probably not likely. The biggest change was in what 2.1 ~ 2.2?!?! Where there was an increase in voltage and capacitance. Even then it didn't solve the issues so many people continue to have!! Its just another kick at the bucket from my perspective . . . I honestly can't understand how UDI wanting to have on site the ability to reflash the EEPROM was the deciding factor to not move forward from Smartlabs??? If there was ever a shining example of honest, direct, and best practices as a business that is UDI. There must have been more to this story because I can't see how allowing someone the capability to flash firmware was a sticking point. So happy Joe Dadda is gone . . .

LOL ~ Revision 2.4 ?!?! Now if that isn't a real WTF I don't know what is . . . To add insult to injury there is no less than five *Auto Replies* from a nit wit spewing out how hardware revision 2.3 has fixed all of this . . .