Teken

Hello Jay, Keep in mind the HUB II notifications only work if the device is locally controlled. Meaning if someone uses a smart application to operate the hardware the system will not send out a badge alert of its On-Off activation.

As Stu noted this could be solved simply by using a Insteon ILL / Micro On-Off relay / Micro Dimmer. Keep in mind this assumes your motion sensor light is not one of those *Dual Bright* types. Lastly, if you decide to use any of the listed Insteon hardware please note the minimum load required per the maker.

My reply was simply to offer some insight about the First Alert One Link combination sensors. I don't believe anyone would consider 5-7 years as being a very reasonable service life. At ten years of service (1 decade) is more than reasonable for anyone to be expected to replace and invest into new technology for a safety system. I see the whole 5-7 operational service as simply a money grab by the vendors . . . In a standard home there isn't anything I consider excessive that could result in such a short operational service life. Besides those who are smokers, heavy oily cookers, or those area where its extremely dusty? The last several years has changed my mindset about different areas - one of which is to remove items that have short service life as listed up above. The other part is reducing my reliance on complex electronics in my home which can be impacted by what I consider *A Typical* voltage swings in the electrical system.

What exactly is the reason for wanting to use the Insteon LED bulb instead of a standard LED bulb? Also realize the Insteon LED bulb must be powered at all times to receive Insteon signals. The bulb also has what's known as *Last Known State* unless changed in software. Meaning if the bulb was on when power was lost - upon restore of power the bulb would turn on. If the bulb was off and power was lost - upon power restore it would remain off. As noted up above in software the bulb can be programmed to come on during a power loss condition. I note this because some users have received bulbs so programmed to do so. As of this writing there is no controller that can enable / disable the always on upon power loss condition. I've asked for this option to be included into the ISY Series Controller firmware since product launch. This hasn't been done, there is no ETA to do so . . .

Another member asked me if I could offer a sample of the first alert combination units indicating 5 vs 7 year warranty / operations. This unit presented here are the ones currently deployed in the home these have a 5 year operational service life. [emoji57] The newer units seen below offer 7 years of operational service life. [emoji849] Rear of package noting the 7 years. With nine of these units in the home the long term costs is really going to add up over time. Thank God I have more than 12 free spares!. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Sadly, I am indeed one of those saps who invested in those units. Even though there wasn't a direct cost to me for the first alert combo units I can't say moving forward this is something I would consider investing into again. [emoji20][emoji853]

Agreed, and to expand on that thought process you and I participated in a similar thread regarding smoke detectors in general. As noted by you the benefit of using the Kidd Remote Linc is that it allows a person to buy relatively cheap sensors. The First Alert battery operated combination sensors are extremely expansive and depending upon when you purchased the unit. Some of them only provide 5-7 years of service life . . . The hardwired smoke only sensor is rated to last 10 years . . . In all cases regardless of the 5, 7, 10 year service life the product literally stops operating. You will be presented with a 3-5 pulse beep which cycles every 60 seconds? If coupled with the Insteon Smoke Bridge you will receive this malfunction message as seen here. This is why I decided to purchase and install commercial grade smoke / co detectors that could be tested, calibrated, and replace the sensing chambers if and when required. Having said this I saw great value in deploying battery operated units through out the home because it allowed flexible mounting where I needed them. Along with the extra assurance no electrical event could impact them should such a condition exist on the line. Lastly, like others it enabled me to connect the Insteon network to activate all the interior / exterior lighting for proper evacuation.

I agree with life and safety one should not be considering using cloud hosted services like IFTTT / Stringify. It would be just fine for simple alerts for low battery, malfunction, test, etc. But for active monitoring this must always go to a UL / cUL certified monitoring central station. Their only job is to receive the incoming alert message signal and notify you and the fire department. In my home the primary smoke, co, heat, sensors are 2 wire modules which are connected directly to the security alarm panel. A secondary smoke / co system uses the First Alert hardwired smoke which connect via RF to the First Alert smoke / co combination detectors. This was done to offer a measure of safety and fail over . . . Why? Because there is no method besides the remote edge case of induced EMP from lightning that can take out a wireless RF smoke detector. That can't be said to a hardwired solution because it requires extensive shielding, grounding, and isolation of the lines. The only method we have found that offers a measure of fault protection is the use of opto isolators and SSR's. Even going this route is considered *Sacrificial* to the network. But that is a much better compromise than having to replace hundreds of dollars of smoke hardware. NOTE: There is a huge distinction between consumer vs commercial grade sensors. One is intended to be tested, calibrated, and parts serviced. Where as the other is defined to fail based on a virtual internal clock to ensure a person isn't living a lie in thinking the hardware is fully operational. In all cases it makes no difference what hardware you use if you don't bother to complete the monthly fire checks! I can assure you 99% of the population don't - never mind changing out the batteries twice a year based on DST change.

Your the first person I have ever read in the forums that has tried this. I think that's a great solution to the OP but can you offer to the members the specific Kidd hardwired unit you have connected? Keeping in mind the OP has a *Wireless RF* unit so this method won't work for him at the moment.

Hello Jay, Yes, search for Prowl in the Apple Store and follow the steps outlined in the UDI Wiki. This will offer you those push notification *Pop Up* badge alerts your Mom has and see's. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i_Series_INSTEON:Networking:Mobile_Notification

Jay, I am not sure what you mean by *notifications* unless your speaking about *Push* alerts. If so, you can use the iOS Prowl smart application and it will send you push alerts which obviously gives you badges to select from.

Does your dryer vent line and exterior fixture not have a flap? Maybe those living in more temperate locations don't require such basic measures when compared to some of us living in extreme arctic weather.

As noted by others this device is a passive coupler and simply bridges the two sides of the split single phase electrical system in the home.

Thank you all for the great insight, sleuthing, and detective work. Does anyone have immediate needs for such a product? Would this be a good dry contact replacement of the Smartinet / Insteon I/O Linc?

Great find but am curious about the hardware details which are pretty thin. I'm not asking you to answer just the questions bouncing around in my head. - Does each relay support 10 amps vs splitting the total between all 16? - What are the relays supporting 3, 5, 12, 24, 120 VAC / DC? - Assuming this product had no controller like the ISY Series Controller does it offer timed latching? - Can it be set to be N.O vs N.C? - What does this product use for a power supply and if external whats supposed to be?

Based on my initial testing using the weather module the announcements only happen once during a state of change. What determines that state of change still eludes me so if someone has factual information about the theory of operations of the weather module that would be great to know. The issue that I wanted to address was specifically to hear the warnings for Blizzard, Hail, Freezing Rain, etc. Several times in case it wasn't heard the first time because my current kludge speaker set up doesn't allow the messages to be heard in all parts of the home. Which I plan to resolve once I finalize what audio system fits in my environment and meets all of the future needs. I may play around with the repeat function using a time interval to see if that works. My only concern is trying to balance the interval where its not annoying vs being useful. Thus far everyone is just blown away at what is being proactively spoken, announced, and communicated about the homes electrical, security, climate, weather, infrastructure, network, etc. LOL - Oh thank God I wasn't the only one being called on the carpet. About not testing voice announcements while others are sleeping!

Hello Bill, May I ask a few questions here if I can. - When you say the announcement happens every 5 seconds is that actually happening or perceived? I ask because I haven't seen this kind of behavior as of yet. I am slowly completing many of the weather, environmental, and HVAC announcements for my own home now. The problem I am running into is based on the WiKi some weather states don't seem to be present vs what is actually seen in the admin console via the weather module. Case in point we had three *Blizzard* warnings / conditions and fuzzy memory recalls they were indicated in the weather module but the WiKi makes no mention what the correct variable would be to use to capture this. BTW: All the thanks must go to my 2017 Super Hero - Thanatar. My only contribution was to document the steps in a manner which made sense to everyone who isn't so quick on the draw like me! Ha . . .

I believe your going to receive a PM from me in the future regarding this template. Once again thank you so very much for taking the time to offer your hands on experience and effort in making this project so Plug & Play. Is it safe to say if someone aligns the plastic template on the laser printer it will be pretty much centered?

I believe using some of these services / apps to auto generate a complex password is fine. But I have to agree letting a 3rd party vendor have direct knowledge, access, and store those very same passwords in the cloud is simply asking for trouble. The closest thing I use to something like this is from a Swedish company which is known to protect the user data to the Nth degree. I would never trust any other country which has a Government bent on spying and breaching every privacy right known to man. You want complete protection regarding passwords keep it in your head. You want something close for complex passwords and documents call upon the Swiss!

I suppose just being a lowly average guy the sweeping, mopping, vacuuming, is up to me. I know of 400 ways to spend that kind of money and it clearly wouldn't be for a maid, house cleaner, auto bot. I know lots of this comes down to time vs money for some but vacuuming actually relax's me plus I enjoy seeing the cross cut hatch on the carpet when I am done. Too bad it lasts only as long as the family are gone from the home . . .

Basic Level: You can have multiple controllers so long as each controller only has direct linking & integration with those specific Insteon pieces of hardware. I do this already on several *Mini* networks in the home for proof of concept, testing, and long term validation of projects on the go. Advanced Level: Some have talked about using the Network Module, Node Server, Polyglot to enable two way hardware status awareness of two controllers in the home. As of this writing I have never read of one single person actually doing this in a production environment. This is the next step for me assuming the details are fleshed out and it actually works besides on paper. UDI PLM: As of this writing there has been no updates as to the current status of the UDI developed global PLM. Past threads in this forum indicated the company was waiting for Smartlabs to finalize sale of the required PLM chips. Along with enabling the UDI company the ability to flash the hardware with new firmware should it ever be required. It has been almost two years since this endeavor has been discussed along with the company actually having working prototypes. Which UDI notes actually works and is simply waiting for the two specific areas to be agreed upon. Should you feel compelled to make you voice heard please take the time to sign up and like this post: http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-category/new-insteon-device-wish-list/8221-plm-pro This was my last reply in that specific thread:

$400.xx ?!? - Just Wow . . .

That's one of many benefits of living in one of the greatest nations in the free world!

The original question was more pertaining to the ISY Series Controller then the portal. But thanks for the heads up on the minimum password length. I thought it was kind of funny Chris's reply notes the user name can be one character?!? Even though having been forced to use extremely complex passwords for my entire life. I do have to say having the option to use what ever you wish is most welcomed. Because when you're using more than 12 characters everyday it gets old real quick especially if you need to enter it over and over again! The only more annoying thing is having to wait for a smart card to change values and enter the very same into a sms message and wait for another set of keys! That's super annoying . . .

Hello Mango, Just start a new thread in the Questions and Answers and just reference this thread for a high level over view.