Teken

I believe there are quite a few people who have pretty much abused the hardware in extreme temperatures. That would include yours truly as mine are in sub arctic weather and haven't skipped a beat. Having said this I don't lay blame to any of the hardware that fails prematurely as its well outside of the stated operating temperatures.

I would think just using the one sensor unless size, looks, and placement is the real issue. Since you have a very tight integration of the ELK to Insteon via the elk module the entire Insteon network is at your beck and call. As you noted if the costs for one ELK sensor is large enough a compromise to meet that value target does make sense. My view is if and when you can use a certified UL / cUL device for security and it offers home automation features it makes sense to follow that route.

I believe its fair to say using a true security sensor with all the other attributes it comes with is a much better route to follow. Going the elk route you would have low battery, fault, tamper, heart beat, RF interrupt detection, etc

And you thought the *Insteon Wish List* wouldn't make a difference! Ha - They heard your plea and made it so . . . NOTE: You could have also used the write update device via programs to make remote changes and simply walked past the sensor to wake it up and push the pending writes.

I am hoping to see this included into the 4.XX branch instead of the 5.XX branch. As several Insteon devices are present only on the 5.XX like the alert module / Insteon siren. Perhaps 5.09 Beta will be first release to show case all three . . .

I think it's safe to say the latest MS will be a great seller. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

On a related tangent the I/O Linc and Open-Close sensor was used for some to determine when and if a AFCI / GFCI breaker - outlet had tripped. Some users have noted Insteon signals or other were tripping AFCI / GFCI's Some wanted to use what they already had on hand like you. Using this very simple configuration enabled them to know if and when the fridge, freezer, sump, what ever had lost power. In this specific use case extra auxiliary devices were not required. I would have no issues using this setup for that purpose so long as they understood the limitations.

Saw this a couple of days ago but for the life of me it didn't make any sense until I read this article: http://www.aftvnews.com/amazon-echo-and-echo-dot-update-adds-computer-wake-word-to-help-complete-the-star-trek-fantasy/

Cable and internet in many places are not considered essential services. This is why those who rely on the internet to connect to an alarm central station are playing with fire. Those using VOIP services are only provided limited service based on the systems UPS in place. POTS is always energized by the telco and isn't affected by a grid down event. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Stu, Is that directed toward me or the OP?

No CT just the I/O Linc and Open-Close sensor . . . Once power has been lost it will close the relay and thus send a signal to the ISY Series Controller. For this to operate correctly some parts of the Insteon network may have to be given up in this case my friend placed the 2413S PLM on a filtered UPS. This allowed the Insteon RF signal to be received and relayed to the ISY Serie Controller. This was done to allow him a *Poor Mans* method to determine when the back up generator was activated. His end goals was to integrate the Insteon network to do specific tasks when the grid was down. This was as I understood it a poor mans method to load shed electrical loads in the home. As he didn't properly isolate all the circuits in the home when the transfer switch was installed.

Use the link I provided to you regarding the KPL repair and scan the thread for the power monitor using the I/O Linc. As noted in the how to article this shouldn't be relied upon as the first line of notification.

http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Resetting_Your_ISY

Unfortunately those devices not having the more robust 100 ~ 277 VAC PSU were not very tolerant of voltage swings. It has been very common to see these devices become unstable and break when a voltage sag is present. It also didn't help the products longevity considering they also used cheap capacitors. This is why the KPL repair mimics the 2413S PLM that so many of us have done. I've restored more than 15 of these devices for myself and a few friends over the years. The only time the replacement cap process doesn't work is if it takes out one of the SMT IC, timing crystal, resistors.

If you remove the load from the circuit does the sound go away? Remove the switch plate and note the hardware production date along with what the ISY Series Controller notes as the firmware in use. Older hardware and firmware had a POST to detect incorrect wiring and load. If the hardware and firmware don't reflect this it could very well be a sign the KPL is showing signs of failure. This noise / button flicker was very common in older hardware. If you're handy with a soldering iron I have a documented how to thread which calls out the process of repairing the very same. You can PM if that is the route your interested in taking . . .

Take out the bulbs and use standard incandescent report back if the problem goes away. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Hello Jay, Keep in mind the HUB II notifications only work if the device is locally controlled. Meaning if someone uses a smart application to operate the hardware the system will not send out a badge alert of its On-Off activation.

As Stu noted this could be solved simply by using a Insteon ILL / Micro On-Off relay / Micro Dimmer. Keep in mind this assumes your motion sensor light is not one of those *Dual Bright* types. Lastly, if you decide to use any of the listed Insteon hardware please note the minimum load required per the maker.

My reply was simply to offer some insight about the First Alert One Link combination sensors. I don't believe anyone would consider 5-7 years as being a very reasonable service life. At ten years of service (1 decade) is more than reasonable for anyone to be expected to replace and invest into new technology for a safety system. I see the whole 5-7 operational service as simply a money grab by the vendors . . . In a standard home there isn't anything I consider excessive that could result in such a short operational service life. Besides those who are smokers, heavy oily cookers, or those area where its extremely dusty? The last several years has changed my mindset about different areas - one of which is to remove items that have short service life as listed up above. The other part is reducing my reliance on complex electronics in my home which can be impacted by what I consider *A Typical* voltage swings in the electrical system.

What exactly is the reason for wanting to use the Insteon LED bulb instead of a standard LED bulb? Also realize the Insteon LED bulb must be powered at all times to receive Insteon signals. The bulb also has what's known as *Last Known State* unless changed in software. Meaning if the bulb was on when power was lost - upon restore of power the bulb would turn on. If the bulb was off and power was lost - upon power restore it would remain off. As noted up above in software the bulb can be programmed to come on during a power loss condition. I note this because some users have received bulbs so programmed to do so. As of this writing there is no controller that can enable / disable the always on upon power loss condition. I've asked for this option to be included into the ISY Series Controller firmware since product launch. This hasn't been done, there is no ETA to do so . . .

Another member asked me if I could offer a sample of the first alert combination units indicating 5 vs 7 year warranty / operations. This unit presented here are the ones currently deployed in the home these have a 5 year operational service life. [emoji57] The newer units seen below offer 7 years of operational service life. [emoji849] Rear of package noting the 7 years. With nine of these units in the home the long term costs is really going to add up over time. Thank God I have more than 12 free spares!. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Sadly, I am indeed one of those saps who invested in those units. Even though there wasn't a direct cost to me for the first alert combo units I can't say moving forward this is something I would consider investing into again. [emoji20][emoji853]

Agreed, and to expand on that thought process you and I participated in a similar thread regarding smoke detectors in general. As noted by you the benefit of using the Kidd Remote Linc is that it allows a person to buy relatively cheap sensors. The First Alert battery operated combination sensors are extremely expansive and depending upon when you purchased the unit. Some of them only provide 5-7 years of service life . . . The hardwired smoke only sensor is rated to last 10 years . . . In all cases regardless of the 5, 7, 10 year service life the product literally stops operating. You will be presented with a 3-5 pulse beep which cycles every 60 seconds? If coupled with the Insteon Smoke Bridge you will receive this malfunction message as seen here. This is why I decided to purchase and install commercial grade smoke / co detectors that could be tested, calibrated, and replace the sensing chambers if and when required. Having said this I saw great value in deploying battery operated units through out the home because it allowed flexible mounting where I needed them. Along with the extra assurance no electrical event could impact them should such a condition exist on the line. Lastly, like others it enabled me to connect the Insteon network to activate all the interior / exterior lighting for proper evacuation.

I agree with life and safety one should not be considering using cloud hosted services like IFTTT / Stringify. It would be just fine for simple alerts for low battery, malfunction, test, etc. But for active monitoring this must always go to a UL / cUL certified monitoring central station. Their only job is to receive the incoming alert message signal and notify you and the fire department. In my home the primary smoke, co, heat, sensors are 2 wire modules which are connected directly to the security alarm panel. A secondary smoke / co system uses the First Alert hardwired smoke which connect via RF to the First Alert smoke / co combination detectors. This was done to offer a measure of safety and fail over . . . Why? Because there is no method besides the remote edge case of induced EMP from lightning that can take out a wireless RF smoke detector. That can't be said to a hardwired solution because it requires extensive shielding, grounding, and isolation of the lines. The only method we have found that offers a measure of fault protection is the use of opto isolators and SSR's. Even going this route is considered *Sacrificial* to the network. But that is a much better compromise than having to replace hundreds of dollars of smoke hardware. NOTE: There is a huge distinction between consumer vs commercial grade sensors. One is intended to be tested, calibrated, and parts serviced. Where as the other is defined to fail based on a virtual internal clock to ensure a person isn't living a lie in thinking the hardware is fully operational. In all cases it makes no difference what hardware you use if you don't bother to complete the monthly fire checks! I can assure you 99% of the population don't - never mind changing out the batteries twice a year based on DST change.

Your the first person I have ever read in the forums that has tried this. I think that's a great solution to the OP but can you offer to the members the specific Kidd hardwired unit you have connected? Keeping in mind the OP has a *Wireless RF* unit so this method won't work for him at the moment.