Teken

A hard reset will bring the device back to a known OEM base line state. You can think of a *Delete all existing links* as a soft reboot. Where as a hard reset is like pulling the outlet in the wall and wiping out the memory card / hard drive format. If you have been around computers long enough you will know a soft boot does not always work as one would expect. Where as a hard reboot (remove power) always does . . . A hard reset will delete any half links, ghost programming, and set the hardware to a known default state. 30 devices isn't too many to hard reset but when you reach 60 plus. You really need to be committed and have patience and time to complete this task. If the home has some kind of noise maker / signal sucker present the bulk of this will be a lot harder. But for now your first task is to confirm proper coupling of split single phase electrical system via the 4 tap beacon test outlined in any full users manual. The 2413S PLM user guide will explain the steps and what your looking for. You could find for what ever reason you simply don't have proper coupling and hence the red exclamation marks. If its noise the best thing to do so you remain sane is to unplug every thing in the home until your able to complete the PLM restore / ISY Restore etc. Anything that can't be unplugged like fridges, freezer, HVAC, etc can be temporarily shut off via the breakers. Good luck . . .

Depending upon where you live and what NEC code is enforced in your local. The application of a secondary remote switch may be allowed / disallowed. I would simply call the city inspector and inquire first. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Where is the GFCI that protects this electrical circuit, at the main breaker?

In the future you can simply install the micro dimmers in the JB. This assumes there is enough clearance as older homes didn't have enough but since your home is fairly new (2015). JB space shouldn't be an issue in the box . . .

Please do and keep in mind the 2466 is one of the last Insteon switches that are still (Single Band). Meaning it sends its signal via power line and not (Dual Band) power line & RF. The 2466 toggle switch is also one of the few pieces of hardware that hasn't seen any internal hardware updates either. Unless you have a pressing need for the toggle switch look ~ Your best served installing a micro dimmer in place to offer dual band capability and 2017 hardware technology.

If you determine the lights share an outlet on the same electrical circuit you can simply add any device to replicate the same load.

Yes, there is a distinct difference between doing the two in this respect. If you do what I asked exactly and assuming there are no other factors affecting your deployment. When you ask Alexa to Tell Me I expect to hear a value recited. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

If there is no variable what is there to cause the network resource to update and fire off? There must be a cause and effect for something to happen.

This may not be the best example I have ever provided so here goes. You have a book that indicates the index or TOC (Table of contents) and one of the entries says *Why did the duck cross the road* Now the TOC is simply stating a fact *Why did the duck cross the road*. You have no idea why the duck crossed the road until you go to page X to read why the duck crossed the road. The static *Test* button at this very time references a State Variable that offers nothing more than its State Variable ID and at present that value is 0. When you have a program call that Network Resource it will update that portion with a *New Value* which isn't zero but a *Current* value. Which is then pushed to 3po-labs and than relayed up to the AWS servers. The above reply is simply to offer that insight you requested and doesn't address other possible issues with your deployment. Clear as mud?? You may be wondering how I know this? Because this time X months ago I had the same questions and inquired the very same . . . So you have the benefit of my lack of understanding of the above.

Because a program will *Update & Push* a value to the network resource of the 3po-labs servers and in turn relay that same information to the AWS Servers. As noted please use the >= operator . . .

Technically, you're correct in so far as the Network Resource is supposed to do X vs Y. The problem I am trying to address and let you know is currently the AWS (Amazon Echo) portal service has no value to reference. So because of this you need to initiate either manually the IF / Then section of the program so that value is then sent up to the AWS Cloud Hosted service to *Know* the value. The AWS is very much a dumb computer simply waiting for X value to arrive so it can invoke Alexa to speak Y value(s). Also, as as an aside if you so choose to use a *Integer* variable for what ever reason you need to have something in the (IF) statement that will cause that Integer to be updated consistently. Don't need to ask how I know this besides the plain obvious reason I was scratching my head for hours waiting for X to happen and it never did! Doh . . .

Hello GMD99, For the benefit of others and brevity I am going to quickly call out the basics that need to be in place. - State Variable - Network Resource - Program that is called by a State Variable and initiates a network resource update to the cloud service. Having said this has the *Tell Me* phrase been accurately employed in the AWS Service?

Running the network resource will not send the current value to the cloud hosted service. Only a program will do so and hence why I suggested you create a program and confirm it uses the >= to ensure it fires off the *State Variable*. Of course you need a State Variable to obtain and track what ever value you wish it to know.

I am going to assume your program uses a *State Variable* if so the next step is to use a (IF) conditions that uses >=. Give that a try and report back success / failure.

The first thing that jumps out at me is that *Mode* needs to be set to C-Escaped give that a try.

http://www.smarthome.com/powerlinc-modem-insteon-2413s-serial-interface-dual-band.html#reviews

LOL - We have all been here so no worries . . . Anyways, if we assume your RL2 is indeed properly enrolled as a 8 button RL2 each button should operate independently. Based on your reply it seems the RL2 in question is configured to be 4 button and hence why A turns on and B turns off or what ever. Normally each button A, B, C, etc will just toggle from on to off . . . If set to none toggle on obviously all buttons would issue a on only when pressed. Based on what you describe go to the top button of any RL2 and select 4 / 8 button mode and toggle between them ensuring the system is writing to the RL2 properly. What your doing is proving that the RL2 is being written to correctly. Obviously you will select 4 button mode first let it write. Then, go back to 8 button mode and let it write . . . At which point your only goal is to press (A) button and I expect that single button to turn on X device. When you press (A) button again it should turn off said X device. Clear as mud?

NA is indeed North America - Many *Retail* packages for Best Buys, Walmart, Costco, etc are provided a different product number and it can end in 232 to denote its a retail package. If you find it cheaper from another on line vendor more power to you!

I would say using a T-tap outlet would offer an alternative in case the fuse blew in the Synchrolinc. Essentially you would have two parallel conductors feeding power to the sump pump. But one is merely intended as a monitoring device and if the fuse blows the other conductor would still offer electrical power to guard against such a condition. Having said this I am a firm believer in a back up battery sump pump unit. Even better if your local allows main line water pressure feeding this negates ever having to worry about electricity being present!

Hello Drew, The RL2 when placed in toggle mode which is the default state will always go from on to off. None toggle as you noted will send a on signal only. Keep in mind each button will recall the last RL2 button press so don't get confused into thinking it was defaulting to on vs off. Meaning if I first press (A) button that will issue a on. A second press will result in a off. What I see a lot is if someone has a program to make a light fixture *Timed* to shut off automatically. The next person or same person forgets that button is still waiting to issue a off response as this was the last state it was in. Hope that makes sense at a high level . . .

Are you referencing the International products or a vendor product? If its a International product it uses a different frequency which isn't compatible with NA products. If your talking about a vendor product say like for Walmart, Best Buys, Costco, these products are the retail product number which is compatible so long as your buying it from NA region.

Normally in a home the temperature doesn't drop very quickly so a query of every 5~10 minutes is fine. If you have lots of programs that are tasked to *Query* it can tie up the ISY Series Controller. Only you know what types of programs are in place now so use your own good judgement.

Looks perfect - Now Rock On . . .

Yup, sorry forgot to tell you this earlier . . . Your next step is to enable *Run at startup* if you don't and the ISY Series Controller is rebooted it will not run as expected.

You can always use Novec electronic water proofing spray from 3M. Used it for years in the field and has never let me down besides the initial sticker shock . . . But, then again I received it free from work back in the day . . . You really don't want to apply and use dielectric compound to the PCB only to contacts like the I/O ports and battery terminals.