Teken

OMG - Too funny!

Yes, if you know the Insteon address you can add the Fan Linc to the ISY Series Controller. As odd as this may sound you could see better results with adding the unit with out any light bulbs attached.

Since your using these KPL's are more as a scene controller and status indicator many of the items I called out won't impact you. Before I learned how to repair the KPL's any of the devices that started acting funny were relegated to being used exactly as I described above as scene / status controller indicators. The KPL you have on hand really doesn't have a beeper? If you turn the unit around there would be a copper colored disc that is the piezeo beeper.

If you know the Insteon hardware address you can do what ever you like. The set button is used for manual setup and linking when there is no controller in place or to initiate the linking for a controller.

I'm pulling back from the *Time Machine* so some of my recollection may not be 100% accurate on some elements. Regardless during the evolution of Insteon many firmware (features) didn't exist. That could very well be the ability to adjust the LED brightness along with how the beep sounder operates. Key things about the older KPL units is some of the units would blink the keys when there was a comm issue. Newer KPL's use the dual colored set button to offer the same. One specific issue you need to determine is what firmware those KPL's are using because there is one production run which caused endless headaches. I am going to just offer a massive WAG (Wild Aszz Guess) it was firmware D or something similar. Do a search in the forums and you will see that specific model would saturate the powerline when not operating properly. Other things to consider for the hardware 1 release devices is when they lose power and when its restored. Some model runs would pulse the load on and off and the KPL would make this really disconcerting sizzle noise. This noise literally sounded like the electronics were frying inside. Both of the above was Smartlabs first try at load detecting and wiring faults. It didn't work out exactly as they hoped and hence the odd start up sequence and is easily seen with LED / CFL bulbs being in place. Also, different hardware 1 (firmware) had this really annoying *Last known state* which didn't always seem to stick. So, if there is a quick power blip even if the last state was off it may very well turn on. You can mimic and test this behavior by short cycling the breakers . . . Hope the above insight gives you some things to consider and test . . .

Did this(v2) KPL come with clear button covers? As hardware revision 1 had a few issues. What is the firmware level per the ISY? [emoji848] ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Hello Chris87, Just a quick tip as this will allow you to access the Admin Console in the future with out all the nag prompts. There is a version of firmware for the Z-Wave controllers. If you install this version it will enable you to navigate the Admin Console because it has an embedded flag that ignores the 2413S PLM as not being present. Those with a hybrid environment like this very much because if the 2413S PLM dies. Any Z-Wave hardware they have will continue to operate via the ISY Series Controller. Consider installing both the firmware and UI for this controller . . . NOTE: It goes with out saying if the 2413S PLM is bad it doesn't help you in terms of programs, status, changes to the system. All this does is allows you to still access and manage the controller with out the nag prompts / errors.

Hello Chris87, The information is printed on the back of the 2413S PLM for the production and hardware information. To obtain the firmware for the 2413S PLM select Tools-> Diagnostics -> PLM Info / Status. Lastly, you need to download the correct UI as you have a mismatch. Failing to have both the firmware and the UI on the same level will result in odd behavior seen in the Admin Console and how it operates when using it.

Back Split, I'm trying really hard to recall what that looks like right now? So if I come into your front entrance I will be on the landing? At this point I would either go up / down five steps to the main areas?

Perfect size home and if its a bungalow even better . . . Won't need to worry about old knees getting up and down the stairs as you get on in life!

LOL . . . It should be noted the bulk of these batteries are intended as *Back Up* to any device(s) I have on hand. The primary goal is to have enough resources during a grid down event using all manner of electrical power. This is mainly driven by wanting to be as self reliant and less impactful on Mother Nature. Assuming I can honestly say the resources used to produce said rechargeable's has less impact. Right now my long term goal is to have every type of *Method* generate electrical power: Solar, NG, Heat, Motion, Wind, etc.

Does your local store carry the AAA anymore? Our store carried both types but sadly they stopped carrying them last year. My long term goal was to be at 100 each for all the various sizes from AAA, AA, C, D, etc.

The WiKi has a on line calculator which gives you a rough idea of the links you have. Keeping in mind some devices like the KPL use up multiple links. So 90 devices is getting pretty close to the 256 ~ 300 link limit its probably best to update the controller to the pro so you don't get blocked. What's your idea of small? LOL . . . I've seen a few people state their so called 3~4 SQF home was small . . .

Do you really have more than 80 plus devices in your home?

Three years is very much at the edge for a 2413S PLM. Would you please indicate what the sticker on the back notes as the production and hardware revision along with the ISY firmware for the PLM?

The 8 pack Duracells from Costco are indeed the best value you will find anywhere. You should double check to see the capacity aren't 2500 mAh instead of 2400 mAh as those were last years versions unless they have lots of old stock on hand. It was a really nice bump for me considering it was still being sold for $24.XX

Based on everything you wrote up above the program and settings are fine. I would probably go the route of high capacity lithium 9 volt battery cells or rechargeable's. If an outlet is near by use the power saver attachment and forgo the entire battery portion. Given the latest motion sensor includes native USB power support I would probably go that route instead. Unfortunately Beta 5.XX release ETA is not known . . .

This sound more like a anti-virus / firewall related issue . . . The first thing I would do is ensure the browser is set to allow pop ups and specific add on's, websites, etc are set to allow. White list anything to do with the ISY Series Controller in both Java, Anti-Virus, and Firewall related programs and hardware appliances. 9 times out of 10 this is related to the above . . . You can also rule some of this out by simply using the secure port (HTTPS) instead of the standard unsecure (HTTP). 1. Bring up ISY Finder 2. Cancel out of the login prompt 3. In ISY Finder, click on the Add button 4. Enter the URL for ISY but this time use https instead of http 5. Cancel out and bring ISY Finder backup and this time double click on the https line

Yes, the (REX) request to exit must be tied to the alarm panel. If and when there is a fire condition the REX will force the mag lock to disengage. A manual REX button should be considered essential as a method to bypass the system should there ever be a fault in the mag lock system. A mag lock system is not intended to be the primary method to secure a door its intended as fail over. Most cities will not allow such a device to be incorporated into a residential dwelling as it increases *Risks* when a fire condition is present.

It really doesn't matter what grade of dead bolt you purchase if its attached to a paper frame . . . Coupled with the fact a large percentage of home owners have glass windows flanking either side of said dead bolt. To add insult to injury many of these same homes have an entire door made of glass. Now, you add insult to injury where you literally see the bottom handle doesn't even incorporate a lock. So the user believes throwing money at a $200+ smart dead bolt is going to do what exactly? Besides make your wallet thinner and that person living a lie in the belief they are safe? If people are remotely serious about force protection they should beef up the entire door frame, use 3-4" shear rated screws, incorporate a slide plate, and install a security out swinging security gate. All of these elements will offer you and the family the time to react and follow the next steps. The worst case it will add more effort for said criminal and they may very well move on to something easier to penetrate.

That depends entirely upon (IF) there is a budget to solve the problem(s).

Hello Johnmsch, Does the solution have to be free or is there a small budget available to complete the same?

The I/O Linc in its current form is single band - many of us have been waiting for a dual band version for more than two years.

Its lived a good life time to repair and replace . . .

Yes, when the newer dual band on-off modules came out and I found out the *Replace With* wasn't listed. That really caused a lot of hair pulling that's for sure! I had several of the Switch Linc timers too and the dual band relays also weren't listed for *Replace With*. The only advice I can share with the OP is simply add the new hardware to the system. Then, simply drag and drop that new device into the scenes that exist. Rinse and repeat the whole process for any programs in use . . . Once you have confirmed the above simply delete the older hardware device from the device tree.