Teken

Not sure where you get 0 ~ 127'C from 39'F which is 3.88889'C (Rounded to 4'C) 104'F is 40'C. These are specifications offered by Smartlabs regarding this thermostat: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2441zth-wireless-thermostat.html In my personal experience residential thermostats will indicate out of band readings either in the following methods: - The lowest value is shown whether it be 39'F as noted by the OP. - Some may indicate a an error or null value. - Some may indicate a binary fault value of say FF I have never seen a residential thermostat having the ability to offer negative (-) value representation preceding the numeric value, ever. Regardless, the OP has clarified the above statement and after repeated resets is in good shape.

Are you saying the environment where this battery operated TSTAT is below 39'F / 4'C? If so, its well outside of the operating temperature of the hardware device which is 39 ~ 104'F / 4 ~ 40'C. There have been several threads where people expected to use the external probe to measure freezing temperatures?!? Again, the TSTAT (Every Normal) TSTAT will not measure negative values or those outside of the standard 39 ~ 104'F range.

This is a software upgrade only. Send a request to UDI with your UUID and they will enable the pro option. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Piconut, May I ask are you seeing premature failures of the light bulbs in use? I ask because this isn't very common these days given 2017 production standards in lighting technology. Even the humble incandescent bulb has a standard 15~25,000 hour service life. It should be noted that older Insteon products did not last very long when a bulb expired. Going off old memory and rolling back the time machine its suspected the back flow of surge current when the bulb blew back fed into the Insteon module and damaged various components in the hardware. I haven't seen any recent threads about dual band modules having the same failure rates due to blown bulbs though. Just wanted to give you a related history lesson in case this is something that is happening . . .

Insteon offers only one hardware devices which detect wattage: Synchro Linc The iMeter Solo has been discontinued and only the Energy Display is available. If you had Z-Wave incorporated into the ISY Series Controller there might be more options in terms of energy monitoring. The only other recourse is to have a dedicated energy monitor that can relay the information to the ISY Series Controller like the Brultech ECM-1240 & Green Eye Monitor (GEM) working in concert with the Dash Box. So no there isn't a simple, direct, method to detect a blown bulb . . .

HTML-5 is under development to replace the entire Java interface - No ETA.

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/21195-folder-color-status/ Partial green = True not running Solid green = True and running Partial red = False not running Solid red = False and running As for the bluish color no one has offered complete insight to me . . .

Yes, here is the older dual type sensor: http://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html

Sorry I misunderstood what you were asking in this case, no.

OMG - Too funny!

Yes, if you know the Insteon address you can add the Fan Linc to the ISY Series Controller. As odd as this may sound you could see better results with adding the unit with out any light bulbs attached.

Since your using these KPL's are more as a scene controller and status indicator many of the items I called out won't impact you. Before I learned how to repair the KPL's any of the devices that started acting funny were relegated to being used exactly as I described above as scene / status controller indicators. The KPL you have on hand really doesn't have a beeper? If you turn the unit around there would be a copper colored disc that is the piezeo beeper.

If you know the Insteon hardware address you can do what ever you like. The set button is used for manual setup and linking when there is no controller in place or to initiate the linking for a controller.

I'm pulling back from the *Time Machine* so some of my recollection may not be 100% accurate on some elements. Regardless during the evolution of Insteon many firmware (features) didn't exist. That could very well be the ability to adjust the LED brightness along with how the beep sounder operates. Key things about the older KPL units is some of the units would blink the keys when there was a comm issue. Newer KPL's use the dual colored set button to offer the same. One specific issue you need to determine is what firmware those KPL's are using because there is one production run which caused endless headaches. I am going to just offer a massive WAG (Wild Aszz Guess) it was firmware D or something similar. Do a search in the forums and you will see that specific model would saturate the powerline when not operating properly. Other things to consider for the hardware 1 release devices is when they lose power and when its restored. Some model runs would pulse the load on and off and the KPL would make this really disconcerting sizzle noise. This noise literally sounded like the electronics were frying inside. Both of the above was Smartlabs first try at load detecting and wiring faults. It didn't work out exactly as they hoped and hence the odd start up sequence and is easily seen with LED / CFL bulbs being in place. Also, different hardware 1 (firmware) had this really annoying *Last known state* which didn't always seem to stick. So, if there is a quick power blip even if the last state was off it may very well turn on. You can mimic and test this behavior by short cycling the breakers . . . Hope the above insight gives you some things to consider and test . . .

Did this(v2) KPL come with clear button covers? As hardware revision 1 had a few issues. What is the firmware level per the ISY? [emoji848] ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Hello Chris87, Just a quick tip as this will allow you to access the Admin Console in the future with out all the nag prompts. There is a version of firmware for the Z-Wave controllers. If you install this version it will enable you to navigate the Admin Console because it has an embedded flag that ignores the 2413S PLM as not being present. Those with a hybrid environment like this very much because if the 2413S PLM dies. Any Z-Wave hardware they have will continue to operate via the ISY Series Controller. Consider installing both the firmware and UI for this controller . . . NOTE: It goes with out saying if the 2413S PLM is bad it doesn't help you in terms of programs, status, changes to the system. All this does is allows you to still access and manage the controller with out the nag prompts / errors.

Hello Chris87, The information is printed on the back of the 2413S PLM for the production and hardware information. To obtain the firmware for the 2413S PLM select Tools-> Diagnostics -> PLM Info / Status. Lastly, you need to download the correct UI as you have a mismatch. Failing to have both the firmware and the UI on the same level will result in odd behavior seen in the Admin Console and how it operates when using it.

Back Split, I'm trying really hard to recall what that looks like right now? So if I come into your front entrance I will be on the landing? At this point I would either go up / down five steps to the main areas?

Perfect size home and if its a bungalow even better . . . Won't need to worry about old knees getting up and down the stairs as you get on in life!

LOL . . . It should be noted the bulk of these batteries are intended as *Back Up* to any device(s) I have on hand. The primary goal is to have enough resources during a grid down event using all manner of electrical power. This is mainly driven by wanting to be as self reliant and less impactful on Mother Nature. Assuming I can honestly say the resources used to produce said rechargeable's has less impact. Right now my long term goal is to have every type of *Method* generate electrical power: Solar, NG, Heat, Motion, Wind, etc.

Does your local store carry the AAA anymore? Our store carried both types but sadly they stopped carrying them last year. My long term goal was to be at 100 each for all the various sizes from AAA, AA, C, D, etc.

The WiKi has a on line calculator which gives you a rough idea of the links you have. Keeping in mind some devices like the KPL use up multiple links. So 90 devices is getting pretty close to the 256 ~ 300 link limit its probably best to update the controller to the pro so you don't get blocked. What's your idea of small? LOL . . . I've seen a few people state their so called 3~4 SQF home was small . . .

Do you really have more than 80 plus devices in your home?

Three years is very much at the edge for a 2413S PLM. Would you please indicate what the sticker on the back notes as the production and hardware revision along with the ISY firmware for the PLM?

The 8 pack Duracells from Costco are indeed the best value you will find anywhere. You should double check to see the capacity aren't 2500 mAh instead of 2400 mAh as those were last years versions unless they have lots of old stock on hand. It was a really nice bump for me considering it was still being sold for $24.XX