Teken

Looking forward to your feedback on that specific unit. I've considered buying a few of the dimmer outlets to remove that *Wall Wart* look on the walls. But, given most of them are behind a piece of furniture and using the latest exterior design housings its not a big deal in terms of looks. Is it safe to say the dimmer version also doesn't make a click sound like the relay version?

The dual relay outlet does indeed have control & status . . . I can't speak to the outlet dimmer though as I don't own one.

What model of outlet do you have? Older single band? Dual band dimmer vs dual band dual outlet relay? For the latter you have two options *Status vs Control* both will offer different selections from on, off, responding, fast on, fast off, etc.

Information Only: First Alert has repurchased the One Link logo to reflect their Home Automation and security product line. It no longer just represents the RF based linking sensor system. [emoji37][emoji58]☹️ ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Hello John, Is the light from the GDO unit motor or a light fixture attached to the home?

Hello Tom, You have two choices here from least invasive to full on. - Pull the clear set button out and wait ten seconds. Once that time elapses push the set button back in until flush. - If that doesn't work you can perform a hard reset. Pull out the set button wait ten seconds. Push the button all the way and hold until you see and hear the KPL beep and the load flash. You should review the hard reset procedure for the KPL timer as some details may be different for this model. ie. Sometimes the user will just hear a beep. Other times a beep and the load will flash. While other times just the load flashes. If you perform the hard reset your next step is to right mouse click and select *Restore Device* this will recreate all the programming and links to the system.

In the big picture yes they do.

For the benefit of the forum members can you indicate the hardware production and revision of this TSTAT along with what the ISY Series Controller indicates is the firmware for this device is? As this will help others down the road for comparisons . . . Regarding the quality of the product - I would expect to see a few revisions in the near future for this product. Lastly, every consumer should offer direct feedback and rate the product to help improve said product here: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2441zth-wireless-thermostat.html#reviews Offering factual feedback along with how to do better is the only way to push the company to do better.

Not sure where you get 0 ~ 127'C from 39'F which is 3.88889'C (Rounded to 4'C) 104'F is 40'C. These are specifications offered by Smartlabs regarding this thermostat: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2441zth-wireless-thermostat.html In my personal experience residential thermostats will indicate out of band readings either in the following methods: - The lowest value is shown whether it be 39'F as noted by the OP. - Some may indicate a an error or null value. - Some may indicate a binary fault value of say FF I have never seen a residential thermostat having the ability to offer negative (-) value representation preceding the numeric value, ever. Regardless, the OP has clarified the above statement and after repeated resets is in good shape.

Are you saying the environment where this battery operated TSTAT is below 39'F / 4'C? If so, its well outside of the operating temperature of the hardware device which is 39 ~ 104'F / 4 ~ 40'C. There have been several threads where people expected to use the external probe to measure freezing temperatures?!? Again, the TSTAT (Every Normal) TSTAT will not measure negative values or those outside of the standard 39 ~ 104'F range.

This is a software upgrade only. Send a request to UDI with your UUID and they will enable the pro option. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Piconut, May I ask are you seeing premature failures of the light bulbs in use? I ask because this isn't very common these days given 2017 production standards in lighting technology. Even the humble incandescent bulb has a standard 15~25,000 hour service life. It should be noted that older Insteon products did not last very long when a bulb expired. Going off old memory and rolling back the time machine its suspected the back flow of surge current when the bulb blew back fed into the Insteon module and damaged various components in the hardware. I haven't seen any recent threads about dual band modules having the same failure rates due to blown bulbs though. Just wanted to give you a related history lesson in case this is something that is happening . . .

Insteon offers only one hardware devices which detect wattage: Synchro Linc The iMeter Solo has been discontinued and only the Energy Display is available. If you had Z-Wave incorporated into the ISY Series Controller there might be more options in terms of energy monitoring. The only other recourse is to have a dedicated energy monitor that can relay the information to the ISY Series Controller like the Brultech ECM-1240 & Green Eye Monitor (GEM) working in concert with the Dash Box. So no there isn't a simple, direct, method to detect a blown bulb . . .

HTML-5 is under development to replace the entire Java interface - No ETA.

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/21195-folder-color-status/ Partial green = True not running Solid green = True and running Partial red = False not running Solid red = False and running As for the bluish color no one has offered complete insight to me . . .

Yes, here is the older dual type sensor: http://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html

Sorry I misunderstood what you were asking in this case, no.

OMG - Too funny!

Yes, if you know the Insteon address you can add the Fan Linc to the ISY Series Controller. As odd as this may sound you could see better results with adding the unit with out any light bulbs attached.

Since your using these KPL's are more as a scene controller and status indicator many of the items I called out won't impact you. Before I learned how to repair the KPL's any of the devices that started acting funny were relegated to being used exactly as I described above as scene / status controller indicators. The KPL you have on hand really doesn't have a beeper? If you turn the unit around there would be a copper colored disc that is the piezeo beeper.

If you know the Insteon hardware address you can do what ever you like. The set button is used for manual setup and linking when there is no controller in place or to initiate the linking for a controller.

I'm pulling back from the *Time Machine* so some of my recollection may not be 100% accurate on some elements. Regardless during the evolution of Insteon many firmware (features) didn't exist. That could very well be the ability to adjust the LED brightness along with how the beep sounder operates. Key things about the older KPL units is some of the units would blink the keys when there was a comm issue. Newer KPL's use the dual colored set button to offer the same. One specific issue you need to determine is what firmware those KPL's are using because there is one production run which caused endless headaches. I am going to just offer a massive WAG (Wild Aszz Guess) it was firmware D or something similar. Do a search in the forums and you will see that specific model would saturate the powerline when not operating properly. Other things to consider for the hardware 1 release devices is when they lose power and when its restored. Some model runs would pulse the load on and off and the KPL would make this really disconcerting sizzle noise. This noise literally sounded like the electronics were frying inside. Both of the above was Smartlabs first try at load detecting and wiring faults. It didn't work out exactly as they hoped and hence the odd start up sequence and is easily seen with LED / CFL bulbs being in place. Also, different hardware 1 (firmware) had this really annoying *Last known state* which didn't always seem to stick. So, if there is a quick power blip even if the last state was off it may very well turn on. You can mimic and test this behavior by short cycling the breakers . . . Hope the above insight gives you some things to consider and test . . .

Did this(v2) KPL come with clear button covers? As hardware revision 1 had a few issues. What is the firmware level per the ISY? [emoji848] ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Hello Chris87, Just a quick tip as this will allow you to access the Admin Console in the future with out all the nag prompts. There is a version of firmware for the Z-Wave controllers. If you install this version it will enable you to navigate the Admin Console because it has an embedded flag that ignores the 2413S PLM as not being present. Those with a hybrid environment like this very much because if the 2413S PLM dies. Any Z-Wave hardware they have will continue to operate via the ISY Series Controller. Consider installing both the firmware and UI for this controller . . . NOTE: It goes with out saying if the 2413S PLM is bad it doesn't help you in terms of programs, status, changes to the system. All this does is allows you to still access and manage the controller with out the nag prompts / errors.

Hello Chris87, The information is printed on the back of the 2413S PLM for the production and hardware information. To obtain the firmware for the 2413S PLM select Tools-> Diagnostics -> PLM Info / Status. Lastly, you need to download the correct UI as you have a mismatch. Failing to have both the firmware and the UI on the same level will result in odd behavior seen in the Admin Console and how it operates when using it.