Teken

Back Split, I'm trying really hard to recall what that looks like right now? So if I come into your front entrance I will be on the landing? At this point I would either go up / down five steps to the main areas?

Perfect size home and if its a bungalow even better . . . Won't need to worry about old knees getting up and down the stairs as you get on in life!

LOL . . . It should be noted the bulk of these batteries are intended as *Back Up* to any device(s) I have on hand. The primary goal is to have enough resources during a grid down event using all manner of electrical power. This is mainly driven by wanting to be as self reliant and less impactful on Mother Nature. Assuming I can honestly say the resources used to produce said rechargeable's has less impact. Right now my long term goal is to have every type of *Method* generate electrical power: Solar, NG, Heat, Motion, Wind, etc.

Does your local store carry the AAA anymore? Our store carried both types but sadly they stopped carrying them last year. My long term goal was to be at 100 each for all the various sizes from AAA, AA, C, D, etc.

The WiKi has a on line calculator which gives you a rough idea of the links you have. Keeping in mind some devices like the KPL use up multiple links. So 90 devices is getting pretty close to the 256 ~ 300 link limit its probably best to update the controller to the pro so you don't get blocked. What's your idea of small? LOL . . . I've seen a few people state their so called 3~4 SQF home was small . . .

Do you really have more than 80 plus devices in your home?

Three years is very much at the edge for a 2413S PLM. Would you please indicate what the sticker on the back notes as the production and hardware revision along with the ISY firmware for the PLM?

The 8 pack Duracells from Costco are indeed the best value you will find anywhere. You should double check to see the capacity aren't 2500 mAh instead of 2400 mAh as those were last years versions unless they have lots of old stock on hand. It was a really nice bump for me considering it was still being sold for $24.XX

Based on everything you wrote up above the program and settings are fine. I would probably go the route of high capacity lithium 9 volt battery cells or rechargeable's. If an outlet is near by use the power saver attachment and forgo the entire battery portion. Given the latest motion sensor includes native USB power support I would probably go that route instead. Unfortunately Beta 5.XX release ETA is not known . . .

This sound more like a anti-virus / firewall related issue . . . The first thing I would do is ensure the browser is set to allow pop ups and specific add on's, websites, etc are set to allow. White list anything to do with the ISY Series Controller in both Java, Anti-Virus, and Firewall related programs and hardware appliances. 9 times out of 10 this is related to the above . . . You can also rule some of this out by simply using the secure port (HTTPS) instead of the standard unsecure (HTTP). 1. Bring up ISY Finder 2. Cancel out of the login prompt 3. In ISY Finder, click on the Add button 4. Enter the URL for ISY but this time use https instead of http 5. Cancel out and bring ISY Finder backup and this time double click on the https line

Yes, the (REX) request to exit must be tied to the alarm panel. If and when there is a fire condition the REX will force the mag lock to disengage. A manual REX button should be considered essential as a method to bypass the system should there ever be a fault in the mag lock system. A mag lock system is not intended to be the primary method to secure a door its intended as fail over. Most cities will not allow such a device to be incorporated into a residential dwelling as it increases *Risks* when a fire condition is present.

It really doesn't matter what grade of dead bolt you purchase if its attached to a paper frame . . . Coupled with the fact a large percentage of home owners have glass windows flanking either side of said dead bolt. To add insult to injury many of these same homes have an entire door made of glass. Now, you add insult to injury where you literally see the bottom handle doesn't even incorporate a lock. So the user believes throwing money at a $200+ smart dead bolt is going to do what exactly? Besides make your wallet thinner and that person living a lie in the belief they are safe? If people are remotely serious about force protection they should beef up the entire door frame, use 3-4" shear rated screws, incorporate a slide plate, and install a security out swinging security gate. All of these elements will offer you and the family the time to react and follow the next steps. The worst case it will add more effort for said criminal and they may very well move on to something easier to penetrate.

That depends entirely upon (IF) there is a budget to solve the problem(s).

Hello Johnmsch, Does the solution have to be free or is there a small budget available to complete the same?

The I/O Linc in its current form is single band - many of us have been waiting for a dual band version for more than two years.

Its lived a good life time to repair and replace . . .

Yes, when the newer dual band on-off modules came out and I found out the *Replace With* wasn't listed. That really caused a lot of hair pulling that's for sure! I had several of the Switch Linc timers too and the dual band relays also weren't listed for *Replace With*. The only advice I can share with the OP is simply add the new hardware to the system. Then, simply drag and drop that new device into the scenes that exist. Rinse and repeat the whole process for any programs in use . . . Once you have confirmed the above simply delete the older hardware device from the device tree.

Hello David, You can only use the replace with feature with a similar device. Relay for relay - Dimmer for dimmer. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Since you have a Z-Wave enabled controller the world is your oyster! I would probably review the forum threads here and see what hardware meets your budget / value needs.

Kirk, For the benefit of the forum members can you state the model, hardware revision, production date, and what the ISY Series Controller indicates as the firmware in place.

You certainly need to ensure and mindful of a strong RF Insteon mesh in the home. If you expect to see positive results using the open-close sensor. I'm using the external contact for various *Proof of concept* projects and long term cold weather Arctic testing. - Smart door bell - Voltage loss detection - Water leak detection - Tilt sensor - Humidity trip point - Position sensor - Stress / Level detection

Yes, in dozens of applications . . .

Groups in the Alexa App?

My comment about the 4 tap beacon test was regarding the plugin lamp linc. I never tried the dual relay outlet to see if it timed out after four minutes. Are you saying if you initiate the beacon test from the outlet it continues to cycle with out stopping? If so that's great to hear and will test the few I have on site to see if that's the case . . .

Information Only: The Micro On/Off relay module when first (initially) powered will be placed in the on state. Once the device has completed this mini POST process the last known state recollection should remain. The operative word is *Should* there have been iterations of hardware and firmware for this device since its release. A very small percentage of users like me have seen when there is a very brief power blip. It can fool the Micro On/Off relay module into thinking its the first time power has been applied. Thus, the device comes back in the on state . . . This issue can be repro'd by short cycling the circuits (be careful) breaker which supplies power to the module. I've often considered and reflected that this strange behavior is at least one cause to the famous ALL ON event some have seen over the years. I don't know if Smartlabs has ever tested for this specific environmental fault but members should be cognoscente of such possibilities to happen. This is why its paramount any home automation integration have an eye toward safety in all aspects.