Teken

Hello Smokegrub, I would encourage you to adapt this fantastic program from Belias: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/11566-leak-sensors-a-suggested-complete-program-package/ As noted previously the heart beat node offers two critical points which is (IF) the battery has enough power to send the heart beat signal (approx) every 24 hours. The other is - Is the device with in RF distance to the closest Insteon dual band hardware in the home. The reason for adapting the *Leak Sensor* program is that it uses variables and basic math to track the actual heart beat. If you already have the this fantastic program in place you need only add the open close sensor to the applicable line of code. Ultimately, those who use this program are assured of robust tracking and notifications . . .

Hello John, http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/19331-my-plm-died-and-i-bought-a-new-one-what-should-i-do-next/ NOTE: Should you feel compelled to get some more use out of the 2413S PLM please follow this resource link: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/?hl=%2Bplm+%2Bfail

I'm going to assume for just a moment you mistaken the heart beat node for a low battery alert. The open-close sensor does not have a low battery node. The Motion Sensor and Hidden Door sensor has a low battery node . . . There are three possible reasons for this to happen even a forth. The battery is low, the device is not with in RF range of another dual band device, the programs logic is incorrect (variable state), there is RF interference. I would check the current state of the heart beat program logic and see what value its set at. Sometimes when the controller is rebooted some programs do not come back up as expected. If you don't find any program logic in error. You can certainly hard reset the device and complete a restore device in the console and sit and wait to see what happens. For reference how many times has this happen is there a pattern?

Given the 2406H is fairly cheap adding this specific device to the sub panel is fine. I know lots of people use this device for personal reason(s). But, I am of the opinion that using a plugin dual band device offers more benefits. As noted the passive 2406H does not repeat, strengthen, or offer RF signaling. It also takes up a breaker slot which I am not a fan of either along with offering no secondary benefit vs a plugin device like a On-Off Relay plugin module. If you have need for a dimmer vs relay to control lamps or appliances then that is a excellent route to take.

LOL! Glad the *How To* helped you track down the little evil under score. This high lights, one can not take what the terminal window says literally. Meaning just because it returned a successful 200 Ack it doesn't mean X will operate as expected. You noted in my *How To* the only proof in the puddling is when Julie U.S. speaks! Now, your next step is to take advantage of the fantastic *How To* from Blueman 2 in making the Amazon Echo *Alexa* offer you two way vocalization. This is what I am working on right now and its been simply fantastic . . . Please let me know if you are needing any help in this area also . . . Best Regards

Hello Dalter2, The following reply is intended as informational feedback so your understanding is complete. - The passive 2406H simply bridges the two sides of the split single phase electrical system in your home. This device couples both sides of the 120 VAC feeds of the homes electrical system. This device does not repeat or bolster the Insteon signal nor does it offer any RF Insteon signaling. - Best practices is to have a plugin dual band device on all four corners of the home. This encompasses all floors of the home from basement, main, second level etc. If a plugin device is to be used I always opt for using and buying a lamp linc, on-off relay module as it offers dual use vs the dedicated Range Extender (RE) which replaces the Access Point (AP). The benefit of the On-Off Relay module is that it has the ability to turn the RF vs Powerline signaling on vs off. It also includes other features not seen on the dual band lamp linc. - 4 tap beacon test: This test simply indicates three critical points when the test is initiated. A) That both sides of the electrical feed is coupled / bridged. That the device is either on the same leg vs opposite leg of the split single phase electrical system. C) That the RF signal can indeed reach another dual band device in the home. If a specific device does not respond it simply indicates its not with in RF reception of the beacon test. - Hop Count: The topology limits the hop count to three to reduce the possibility of communication *Fire Storm*. Meaning if the system was allowed to continue to send signals the entire Insteon network could be brought down due to over flow of data flow to complete that single request. This is why its limited to three attempted hops or attempted signals . . . - PLM vs HUB: The HUB II offer a stronger RF signaling vs the 2413S PLM. Specs range from 200 - 250 feet vs the 2413S PLM's *Up to 150 range. As you noted if your *Initial Insteon Mesh* is still in the mist of being deployed its important to have the 2413S PLM open and exposed to allow the enrolling process to be completed. - Noise makers / Signal Suckers: No matter how much coupling - bridging you have in the home along with how much dual band devices you have in the home. No power line technology will over come these issues so proper use and deployment of filters are a must if you seek to have a robust and reliable Insteon network. Please ensure all electronics are placed on a Insteon Filter Linc or similar . . .

Hello ELA, At the gym right now so will offer you a comprehensive *how to* link with lots of pictures to follow and troubleshooting steps upon my return. EDIT: I just sent you a PM with the *How To* which indicates the trouble shooting steps to follow. Please let me know if it solves your issues. If not all of us can go through the next steps to accomplish the same.

I didn't know the entire mail box was encased inside of the brick housing. Regardless, you could still insert a two conductor wire through a small hole around the lip of the mail box door area. I would need a side view of the mail box to see if this is possible. Could you offer an alternate view from the side (profile) to see what it is we are working with in terms of space / entry point?

I did this for a friend not too long ago - We used the internal I/O ports of the open-close sensor and wired it to a standard magnetic contact switch. Mounted the magnet to the door and the other end affixed to the inner frame mail box housing. Ran the wire loom out the back of the mail box and mounted the open-close sensor on a mini pole to allow the best RF signaling. His mail box is about 85 feet from the nearest dual band device which is a outdoor switch.

My feedback is more about sharing a global view about how consumers need to find balance. There isn't a true right or wrong with respect to security but more about not relying on so much technology that can easily be compromised or used against us. As I get older I truly embrace the KISS principle and those who live by it. I've spent most of my life in the high tech world and have also enjoyed the very same. Why would any of us be here if we didn't enjoy the very same! LOL . . . But people should not get all caught up *Thinking* some random piece of tech is the end all - solve all. There is much to be said of mans best and loyal friend the canine. As you eluded to for those who have the right to bare arms this too offers a different level of protection. In both cases these two elements are reactive and must rely upon someone / something to react. This is why having this single point of view is limiting and dangerous. When a home / business is properly secured in its infrastructure the most important element any single person / company relies upon is *TIME*. Force protection offers that time . . . People often forget or ignore everyday scenarios of people being away for work, play, holiday, etc. Humans need to sleep, drink, eat, etc. Dogs as they get older lose vision, hearing, etc so once again the importance of investing into elements that require just a one time costs and zero maintenance and isn't impacted by time. Lastly, regardless of all the force protection elements in and around the home. One must always keep top of mind is proper comprehensive home owners insurance as you know first hand. Anyone who didn't have extra insurance when Sandy blew threw knows there was nothing going to make you whole. Once again *Insurance* is not sexy, it offers no day to day value to most people. But rest assured when the sh^t hits the fan you will be thankful that a fully comprehensive and enforced policy was there and kicked in when and where it was needed.

As Stu noted placing something inside of the door jamb which removes material from the frame will compromise the integrity and the frame. The reality is, most consumers place true security in the back seat when compared to user convenience. Who ever coined the phrase: *Locks are to keep honest people out - not thieves* If a person took just a few moments to search and Google what that same $200 - 500.XX worth of funds could do in terms of true force protection vs a so called smart lock. They would be embarrassed to find out they could actually find certified products which offer true security. There are countless security products on the open market which offer true force protection security. They are not sexy, they don't require batteries, and they just work. The sad reality is this world (Product Makers) in the last five years have pushed convenience over security where someone will lose their lives. Its pretty comical to read people who literally live in a glass house - yet they believe investing XXX dollars in a smart lock is going to stop a 85 lbs wet child from breaking into your home?!? Security is a lifestyle which is a multi faceted, layered, and practiced approach - Along with keen situational awareness of the things and people around you. People really need to think and evaluate what are their personal risks, dangers, and outside forces at play that will impact them. Having a true security audit to see where you're vulnerable is one of the several first steps in protecting life and property.

You can certainly ask the ISY Series Controller to keep existing links when you enroll the Insteon hardware. But I can tell you with a high level of confidence that half links, ghost links, and unforseen behavior will be seen if you go this route. If you're looking for a reliable and consistent operating Insteon network. Its best to hard reset all device and enroll each device into the ISY Series Controller from scratch. You can use option one and see what happens if its fine - Rock On. If not you should consider option two.

I love it! [emoji106] That project has open such a huge door to my energy monitoring / energy management it can't be understated! Like many here I started off with basic email notifications about when the dryer, washer, dishwasher was done. Now, the home speaks to the family using Julie U.S. for the very same. Extending that same power to environmental for weather, temperature, humidity has been incredible. Right now I'm finalizing the force protection elements by incorporating voice announcements which should be done in the next couple months. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

My entire homes energy is monitored & managed by my Brultech Green Eye Monitor. The images you see are only a small fraction of what can be captured, displayed, and recalled. I know exactly the start up inrush current, watts, volt-amps, KWH, and power factor. With the tight integration of the ISY Series Controller and the Insteon network I can monitor & manage every circuit load in my home. Currently my on going project has been to vocalize all aspects of the energy conditions. At this very moment the system will not only send me alerts via email, SMS, push notification. But actually speak and tell me if a fault condition exists. [emoji4][emoji851] Of course since we are talking about the sump. The system will tell me when, how long, and how many cycles the sump has activated for. Right now the system is only programmed to vocalize out of band readings I deem unsafe. [emoji53]

Great to see others taking a keen interest into their homes infrastructure. Doing so ensures a base line is known and tracks possible faults that may be happening.

What is your overall intent about monitoring the sump pump? That you know it has activated, duration, and how many cycle times?

Hello ELA, Once you enable SAMBA on the RPi (Open Elec) you simply go to my computer under the network and you should see the directory. Selecting the music folder will allow you to drag and drop the WAV files from what ever destination.

Hope it wasn't one of those refurbished units with a 30 day warranty?!? [emoji848]☹️️ ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Agreed, the mineral content of the water will impact how success full this works. The bare wire was just the cheapest method it could be done without much effort. Other options are to use dedicated water contact to float switches. A basic float switch can be had for less than $1.50 on eBay if desired. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I believe people have seen instances were updating to Alpha / Beta firmware caused random things to happen. That includes programs losing associated linking, unable to save, etc. Normally in the Beta builds the first culprit is not having matching UI & Firmware but in your case that isn't the issue as yours does match. Making small changes and pressing the save button is most definitely a good move. I've personally seen many times where the system fails to save a program after an edit or creation. Out of course I always press on the save button at least two times to ensure the system has done so.

The program looks very straightforward so would suggest you confirm there are no conflicting programs in place.

Perfect, thanks for confirming just wanted to ensure the basics were in place . . .

Paste the program up for review and lets see. Also if you could provide more insight as to what brand, model, type of safety light you have in place maybe we can figure it out. I am going to assume for a moment these lights don't have a built in dusk to dawn sensor? If they do this is something you would need to resolve because no program is going to over ride the hardware unless there are means to do so.

Maybe we are on the wrong page or have a misunderstanding here so bare with me as I hash this out *Virtually* with you here. Others can chime in and confirm what I am thinking because I could be completely off base. - DST: If your area respects and observes DST you should have this box checked. - If DST is checked there is nothing more for the end user to do at all. Meaning the function and idea of the enabled (selected check box) is to automatically change the time forward / backwards when applicable. - The only problem I have seen about DST is like you - Is not having the ability to select a location from the drop down list. In that case entering the geo coordinates is the next step. What I am stating above is (IF) the DST is enabled and selected and your lat / long is correct. There is nothing more for you to do unless you do indeed see a one hour difference at this very moment with the DST box checked. Yes? NOTE: All of the above assumes enable NTP Server to ensure the controllers clock is indeed correct and in sync. Can you confirm that the system clock vs the computer clock is accurate? Do not assume the computers clock is accurate because there are many reasons it could be off.

Its interesting I just selected the *Locate Me* option and the box to enable / disable isn't available to be selected. I selected off, not supported from the drop down list but it had no impact on the *Locate Me* check box being field selectable. In the past this box was available for use so gather the team will need to review why its no longer an option. Just to be clear if you select any major city the DST box is enabled and checked correct? The problem you have is the next city is too far away to make good use of the DST function.