Teken

Information Only: Many of us have seen where the Admin Console stops reporting and updating the current state while logged in. This behavior can be exasperated by too many network connections, over lapping programs, and tight loop sequences. With respect to network connections the best you can do assuming you have control over it is to increase the send interval that connects to the controller. Programs should have offsets where complex programs don't attempt to fire off actions in the same time frame. Tight loop sequences (my interpretation) is to limit repeat functions like flash & beep of specific hardware. All of these actions tie up the FIFO processing order of the ISY Series Controller.

Paul, Is it safe to say these units you heard the sound were from the relay style? I ask because the time frame you note is close to when the dual band relay KPL were released and they historically made a slight buzzing, hum, which some have noted its the relay etc.

What exactly does it do when it's making this noise? [emoji848] is humming, buzzing, pulsing? Yes, you can hard reset the device per the full users manual by pulling out the set button and waiting 10 seconds. Then push the set button all the way in and hold until you see and hear the load beep and flash. Then you can use the restore device option to recall the linked scenes and programming held in the ISY Series Controller. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

If you activate the two device manually (locally) is the correct status reflected in the admin console?

Was there a specific Insteon device you have on hand that you want me to try in my own environment for comparisons? There are only a few devices I don't own which are DIN, Outdoor Outlet, Toggle Linc, 1-10 Ballast, Dimmer Outlet. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I've had many Insteon products located inside the none insulated garage and outside of my home for more than eight years now. Average mean temperatures in the winter for the GWN is -25'C / -13'F where I live. Will see 2-3 weeks of -32'C to -45'C / -25.6'F to -49'F during the peak winter times of January & February. Current Insteon devices that have continued to operate are open-close sensor, motion sensor, 2 X appliance linc, on-off plugin relay, I/O linc, 2 X icon dimmers, Insteon LED, micro relay. Several products were installed for long term testing as a simple proof of concept to see how they lasted and operated in the extreme cold. I haven't seen any failures yet but also didn't expect them to operate 100% given they are well outside of the makers claimed operational working temperature(s).

You have my full undivided attention Sir, do tell.

Are you proposing to use the second channel as a possible technique?

The closet thing you can do to achieve this is either using a variable to track the last known state. Or track the heart beat in a crude way which relies on several programs to validate the 24 hour heart beat check in.

Also keep in mind if someone is truly dedicated in obtaining the energy data from a meter depending on type, style it may still be doable. The older rotating disk style have several third party vendors that watch and read the black stripe passing through. If you have this sort of rotating disk do a search and you will find hardware that supports it. For those with the digital meters again depending on brand, model, style, some offer a LED pulse which can be read by a pulse sensor. As KevinNH clearly noted if you're even remotely serious about getting into energy monitoring / energy management then you must use something that monitors each circuit in the home like I do via the Brultech Dash Box / GEM combination. The reality is none of this is sexy and hence why the market has never really taken off. Regardless of how unsexy it is - managing your energy will save you real money which can allow you to buy sexy things!

Hello Mario, There are several things you will need to find out as Paul noted below. 1. Is the device supported by the ISY Series Controller - You can see this by looking at the supported hardware via the drop down list. 2. Does the utility in your area allow the consumer to connect to the meter. It should be noted most if not all POCO's use the ZigBee Energy Profile and RF communications protocol. You will be hard pressed to find anything else beside a random POCO testing *potential* hardware under trials in v1 deployments. 3. The UDI web sales indicates the current hardware for energy monitoring / energy management. Keeping in mind there is a distinction one supports third party energy monitoring hardware. Where as the other assumes a utility meter which uses ZigBee and that POCO allows third party devices to connect and enroll to said device. For third party energy management / energy monitoring there is the UDI version which I have never heard of anyone using or having. Then there is direct support for Brultechs ECM-1240 and Green Eye Monitor (GEM). 4. The ISY Series Controller does indeed support multiple third party energy monitors. How many that is I completely forget but its more than one for sure. 5. As noted by Paul if you ever decide to get serious about energy monitoring / energy management. You can only have one daughter board connected to support either Z-Wave vs ZigBee. Keeping in mind the ZigBee card only supports the *Energy* profile and nothing more. Meaning it doesn't support anything outside of energy like Home Automation (HA). Due to ZigBee's stupid deployment of the protocol which has pretty much hobbled the industry as a whole.

Love that old school fixture but having a single flood lamp on one side would drive my OCD crazy! I'm all about balance and would need to have a second flood lamp staggered on the other side.

Adding the frame kit to the RL2 will offer that *Virtual Switch* anywhere: http://www.smarthome.com/mini-remote-wall-mount-bracket.html I would however purchase at least the 4 / 8 button RL2 as this would let you define the scenes to reflect the different use cases as I noted up above. In my mind unless there is a absolute need for a single button to match an existing decora switch set. Purchasing the multi button RL2 is the best value and future proofing . . .

They do make plastic ones too! ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Pretty much but that depends how big that light fixture is to! [emoji38][emoji12]

No matter what you do write down and take a photo of the Insteon MAC address! Along with placing a piece of clear tape over it in case it falls off. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

LOL [emoji106][emoji23]

It could be just a small box next to above it, or below so it looks clean and uniform. [emoji4]

Drew, All you need to do is use a larger outdoor rated box to install the ILL. Then install the LED fixture to the box. Bam - your golden ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Best to install a larger box the ILL can go inside with the LED fixture attached. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

No worries but as Gary noted it's not recommended to install the ILL in the attic if you live in a hot climate. Considering most places even where I live in the cold aszz GWN the temps are greater than 50-60'C! Heat is the primary killer of electronics besides low / high voltage conditions.

Just a link to the product you intend to buy and install to view the specs. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Drew, Just to be clear can you offer a direct link to the LED fixture? [emoji848] I ask because we don't want to recommend the wrong Insteon solution for the product you intend to use if it's not compatible. I.e. When you say spot light do you really mean a motion activated light fixture. If this is indeed a motion activated motion light please keep in mind you can't use Insteon on those devices advertised as having dual bright technology. If on the other hand this is just a multi head / single head spot light with no electronics / ballasts etc. You're good to go using the ILL Dimmer. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Yup, please ensure your wattage falls within the ILL's operating capacity. Keeping in mind lots of cheaper LED bulbs have a huge inrush start up current when first turned on. This can range from 2-30 times the RMS current for fraction of s second. Lastly, keep in mind the switch in the home must be a dimmer to use direct dimming unless you create scenes with defined output levels via programs etc. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Unless you already have a none dimmable LED present installing a dimmable ILL only makes sense over the long run. As it will allow you to define the light output to different scenarios when needed. Ex. 100% output for dog duties. 50% for perimeter lighting before midnight, 25% after midnight for beacon street location identification. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.