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That is correct . . . Ideally you should run a PLM Link Compare several times to see how many links are in the unit. If it shows a very low link count like some crazy (20) links that is a sure sign of a pending failure.

If the 2413S PLM is still under the two year warranty period you can submit a RMA and have the unit crossed docked. Doing so will ensure you still have something on hand to use. If the device is not covered by the two year warranty period and you do decide to purchase a new unit and follow Pauls suggestion. You can also try your hand repairing the 2413S PLM using this outstanding forum thread: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/?hl=%2Bplm+%2Bfail Keep in mind to help you limp along you can try to complete a restore PLM also.

No worries, please read the pop up message that is displayed which indicates the system will close the Admin Console once the first portion of the replace with command is done. Please also note the device you intend to replace should be called something else. And that the *New* device will take on the *Old* name and all its program, option, feature selections. Meaning if the old switch is called dog and the new switch is called cat. Once you select the replace with the cat device will disappear from device tree. When you go back into the Admin Console you will notice that dog hardware will have the cat insteon ID. This is how you know it was replaced in the first place and correctly.

Hello, It means the hardware must be the same - so if you had a KPL dimmer it must also be a KPL dimmer. You could not replace a KPL dimmer with a KPL Relay, plugin lamp linc dimmer. There are also some legacy products like the appliance linc which can not be *Replaced With* so like the plugin On-Off module as they didn't exist at the time. This has nothing to do with being single band vs dual band though. You shouldn't have any issues using the replace with for those two devices assuming both are relay switches.

Larry pretty much cut down to the bone here. Almost everything a person does in life is based on trust, honor system, and rule of law. I trust my homes voice integrated security with UDI way before I can say the same for Google. To think there are tens of millions of sheep knowingly using Nest TSTAT, Nest Protect, Nest Drop Cam, Google Fiber, Google Home, Google Mail, Google Media, etc. Quite shocking and comical in the same breath - let the games begin!

Information Only: A manual query does not perform the same function as a automated query.

Information Only: Various Insteon EDOC's indicate the battery percentage can be obtained and displayed to the controller. I am unsure why this important piece of information is never displayed even when its clearly printed as being available for use.

Understood, but please ensure you have all the safety aspects in place before you ever remote control the largest door in your home.

I suppose it really comes down to use case and a persons comfort level of risk(s). For me I can't say this is something that would be done in my home or those I help deploy home automation. The reality is humans by their very nature are lazy and don't complete tasks unless some kind of outside factor whether it be personal, business, or legal makes them do so. This (specific) topic has been discussed at length in various forms and the only thing any of us can do is offer that insight in hopes balance can be found. As of this writing I haven't met a single person in my community that has ever bothered to complete the required monthly, yearly GDO inspections, mechanical adjustment, and validation tests. To think the most basic safety aspects have already been ignored yet people want to add in another layer of *Risk / Hazard* to something that isn't even maintained by the masses. Yeah, I can't see anything going wrong here . . .

I would encourage you to find and use a *Unique* phrase / word that can't be easily used against you. Adding voice control to open and close the largest door in your home with out any measure of authentication is a recipe for disaster. Keeping in mind several large insurance companies have already stated they intend to update their home owners insurance policy to decline future claims due to the above. Just because you can do a thing - Doesn't mean you should . . .

It was UDI's first pass at creating a new interface for the ISY Series Controller. Sadly, no further development has been seen in this are for quite sometime. If you didn't notice there is also the HAD interface which offers another alternate view and also enables a person to create custom display(s). This was created by Beniot one of the UDI support staff who also happens to be the lead developer in the Amazon Echo integration to the ISY Portal. More information about the HAD interface can be found in the Wiki.

Good to know the sound was from the dual band relay style KPL's. I've had several of these first generation KPL's fail or start to act odd where trying to write updates / restore device would continue to fail after dozens of attempts. In some cases I have started down the repair process and have been very successful in restoring the same via the infamous cap replacement process. The only KPL that I failed to repair was one that needed a IC and timing crystal. At the time I didn't have source for the part but later bought a used (Insteon) part for pennies on the dollar and scavenged the part to inject it into the KPL needing it. Worked out quite well and has been humming along nicely for the last 14 months.

Information Only: Many of us have seen where the Admin Console stops reporting and updating the current state while logged in. This behavior can be exasperated by too many network connections, over lapping programs, and tight loop sequences. With respect to network connections the best you can do assuming you have control over it is to increase the send interval that connects to the controller. Programs should have offsets where complex programs don't attempt to fire off actions in the same time frame. Tight loop sequences (my interpretation) is to limit repeat functions like flash & beep of specific hardware. All of these actions tie up the FIFO processing order of the ISY Series Controller.

Paul, Is it safe to say these units you heard the sound were from the relay style? I ask because the time frame you note is close to when the dual band relay KPL were released and they historically made a slight buzzing, hum, which some have noted its the relay etc.

What exactly does it do when it's making this noise? [emoji848] is humming, buzzing, pulsing? Yes, you can hard reset the device per the full users manual by pulling out the set button and waiting 10 seconds. Then push the set button all the way in and hold until you see and hear the load beep and flash. Then you can use the restore device option to recall the linked scenes and programming held in the ISY Series Controller. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

If you activate the two device manually (locally) is the correct status reflected in the admin console?

Was there a specific Insteon device you have on hand that you want me to try in my own environment for comparisons? There are only a few devices I don't own which are DIN, Outdoor Outlet, Toggle Linc, 1-10 Ballast, Dimmer Outlet. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I've had many Insteon products located inside the none insulated garage and outside of my home for more than eight years now. Average mean temperatures in the winter for the GWN is -25'C / -13'F where I live. Will see 2-3 weeks of -32'C to -45'C / -25.6'F to -49'F during the peak winter times of January & February. Current Insteon devices that have continued to operate are open-close sensor, motion sensor, 2 X appliance linc, on-off plugin relay, I/O linc, 2 X icon dimmers, Insteon LED, micro relay. Several products were installed for long term testing as a simple proof of concept to see how they lasted and operated in the extreme cold. I haven't seen any failures yet but also didn't expect them to operate 100% given they are well outside of the makers claimed operational working temperature(s).

You have my full undivided attention Sir, do tell.

Are you proposing to use the second channel as a possible technique?

The closet thing you can do to achieve this is either using a variable to track the last known state. Or track the heart beat in a crude way which relies on several programs to validate the 24 hour heart beat check in.

Also keep in mind if someone is truly dedicated in obtaining the energy data from a meter depending on type, style it may still be doable. The older rotating disk style have several third party vendors that watch and read the black stripe passing through. If you have this sort of rotating disk do a search and you will find hardware that supports it. For those with the digital meters again depending on brand, model, style, some offer a LED pulse which can be read by a pulse sensor. As KevinNH clearly noted if you're even remotely serious about getting into energy monitoring / energy management then you must use something that monitors each circuit in the home like I do via the Brultech Dash Box / GEM combination. The reality is none of this is sexy and hence why the market has never really taken off. Regardless of how unsexy it is - managing your energy will save you real money which can allow you to buy sexy things!

Hello Mario, There are several things you will need to find out as Paul noted below. 1. Is the device supported by the ISY Series Controller - You can see this by looking at the supported hardware via the drop down list. 2. Does the utility in your area allow the consumer to connect to the meter. It should be noted most if not all POCO's use the ZigBee Energy Profile and RF communications protocol. You will be hard pressed to find anything else beside a random POCO testing *potential* hardware under trials in v1 deployments. 3. The UDI web sales indicates the current hardware for energy monitoring / energy management. Keeping in mind there is a distinction one supports third party energy monitoring hardware. Where as the other assumes a utility meter which uses ZigBee and that POCO allows third party devices to connect and enroll to said device. For third party energy management / energy monitoring there is the UDI version which I have never heard of anyone using or having. Then there is direct support for Brultechs ECM-1240 and Green Eye Monitor (GEM). 4. The ISY Series Controller does indeed support multiple third party energy monitors. How many that is I completely forget but its more than one for sure. 5. As noted by Paul if you ever decide to get serious about energy monitoring / energy management. You can only have one daughter board connected to support either Z-Wave vs ZigBee. Keeping in mind the ZigBee card only supports the *Energy* profile and nothing more. Meaning it doesn't support anything outside of energy like Home Automation (HA). Due to ZigBee's stupid deployment of the protocol which has pretty much hobbled the industry as a whole.

Love that old school fixture but having a single flood lamp on one side would drive my OCD crazy! I'm all about balance and would need to have a second flood lamp staggered on the other side.

Adding the frame kit to the RL2 will offer that *Virtual Switch* anywhere: http://www.smarthome.com/mini-remote-wall-mount-bracket.html I would however purchase at least the 4 / 8 button RL2 as this would let you define the scenes to reflect the different use cases as I noted up above. In my mind unless there is a absolute need for a single button to match an existing decora switch set. Purchasing the multi button RL2 is the best value and future proofing . . .