Teken

You just quoted the hardware . . .

I agree there isn't a one size fits all for everyone that is why having choices is great. I also have to concede running more than five miles worth of wiring isn't fun. But the investment in time, effort, and one time expanse has paid off for me - going strong eight years and counting. Plenty of time for me to kick back a cold one . . .

I would agree if someone had absolutely nothing and wanted a plug & play solution for sure. If on the other hand this was being considered for a long term, reliable, and one time out of pocket expense. Going the route of running cable for a 1 wire system just makes sense in terms of durability and cost(s). I've had my time with battery operated devices and have moved forward to using proven one time solutions. My time is limited and expansive so don't have the same tolerance for wasting my time and money. The benefits of the tags are great though considering what it offers the average user for $26.XX and $49.XX for the tag manager. For me spending $0.99 - 2.39 per sensor depending upon where you get them that lasts almost forever and operates in extreme temperatures just makes sense to me. Having the ability to scale from small to large from 10 to 48 sensors equals what? The Autelis Master controller cost $129.XX Using the extreme price level of $2.39 X 48 1 Wire: $114.72 + 129.00 = $243.72 vs $26.00 X 48 Tags = $1248.00 1248.00 - 243.72 = $1004.28 <-- I don't pretend to know how many 1 wire sensors I could buy as a back up if one failed or how many Autelis controllers to extend my network. But I am sure that's a lot . . . For me it comes down to spending my money once - the first time around.

The reality is unless the hardware is designed and purpose built to sustain extreme operating temperatures it simply won't last. Its not if - its when something will fail. I've been doing this sort of thing for more than 25 years and in many industrial settings. Unless someone is willing to spend the money on a field proven hardware which is temperature rated for extreme operations it will fail. This is why I recommend using 1 Wire sensors that are encapsulated in SS housings. You can embed them into almost anything and they will take the extreme temps from hot to cold with out issue. This can't be said for many electronics these days because the reality is not very many companies test their products for long duration's in those environments for performance life cycles. That only address's the electronics and not the batteries which almost everyone knows is heavily impacted by temperature. Using one method requires planning, time, and investment of funds - but the outcome is long term reliability, durability, and no further expenses and maintenance. While the other will die at some point and requires endless battery replacements which offer varied time frame based on temperature environmentals. Below are a few snap shots of extreme heat and cold in a real world attic in the GWN. None of these temps are extreme for my area but the norm. Yet my system has been running along fine for eight years with out further maintenance or battery changes. 54.5'C = 130.1'F / -30.5'C = -22.9'F I have many other years with data which capture the attic breaking 58.9'C = 138.02'F / -46.3'C = -51.34'F. Anyone who believes a piece of plastic is going to survive in my attic at those temps while offering accurate readings is just dreaming. LOL . . .

If the Insteon TSTAT is truly installed up in the attic and you indeed live in Texas. Don't expect the hardware to make it past the one season. I would suggest you either move it out of there and use another solution or install the remote temperature probe from Insteon. Unfortunately the probe extension only measures temperature. Heat is the primary killer of electronics besides low grade capacitors not rated for extreme temperatures. A more reasonable, reliable, and higher accuracy comes from using 1 Wire sensors. Depending upon the master controller in use you can see and monitor 0.1 / 0.5 resolution measuring from -55'C to plus 125'C / -67'F to plus 257'F. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Hello Nick, Absolutely, you can access, upgrade, read logs, etc.

Hello Rob, Appreciate the clarity on the DST so in essence the application relies on the OS to be updated to know that condition should it ever change. I thought you were eluding to the fact I/O Guy's node application went out to the Internet similar to NTP Server to update and obtain the current stats.

Just to be clear you are saying his program knows if someone changed DST a week earlier / later and than can compensate for that new data point?

Can his program compensate for the OP's question of (IF) the Government decided to change *When* DST happen? I think the real question is when will the ISY Series Controller ever have a calendar to program for basic things. ie. You're able to select a date, date range, for a program. From casual reading I believe some members indicated v5 has a basic date option?

Hello Someguy, For the benefit of the forum members can you also provide the information noted on the back of the 2413S PLM. It will state the hardware revision and production date. Lastly, can you indicate what the ISY Series Controller notes as the firmware in use for this device.

Chris, Can you add some more clarity to this statement? As to doubling of the program limit. 1400 isn't exactly double the amount but its fair to say coming from 1024 vs 1400 is a nice over head and buffer for anyone!

LMAO - Well then you certainly need a 2413S PLM ! After the OP replied this was quite obvious - But I swear he made a few threads about Insteon so this confused me.

Hello Andrew, I don't really follow what is happening here - You have created many threads on this forum before how did you ever connect your Insteon network if you didn't have a 2413S PLM? That is the little white box that is connected to the ISY Series Controller.

Bring all three items to the same room as the 2413S PLM and plug it into the same outlet. What is the results of adding in the new hardware?

Not at the moment . . .

You are probably one of the few people I have ever read in this forum that have done almost everything I have suggested to ensure a safe remote GDO activation. As noted it doesn't matter what Home Automation safeties are in place if the basic GDO hardware isn't routinely checked, inspected, and calibrated to meet safety guidelines. Key things with the annual GDO inspection is validation of the force detection, optical reversal, crush depth, and the unsprung free weight tension of the torsion springs.

But to clarify if the OP has a standard none Insteon switch can he make the device fade dim? I don't believe a standard switch would allow this? [emoji848] Anyone? ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

As Stu noted its important to know what controls the ballast load. If its a relay on-off device you will simply have on-off levels defined as you have up top. If however you have a Insteon dimmer switch attached you can dim the ballast as expected. Having said this I am a little surprised the product can't natively dim by itself? Based on the screen capture would this device not behave like a micro relay / dimmer module? As it has direct control of the load so would expect any switch if held down to allow dim control?!?!

What is the reason for starting over again?

Here is a primer regarding variables: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:How-To_Guide#Variables If you have specific questions please do ask and I am sure there will be lots of answers.

LOL Wasn't expecting a Star Trek reply at all - Well played . . .

Once again what does the modified HUB indicate as the RF frequency in use?!? [emoji53] If the HUB indeed uses 50 Hz the RF sending frequency more than likely won't be 915 MHz. Keeping in mind this assumes you purchased items for the EU. If you purchased NA parts directly from SH there are quite a few insteon devices which support 50/60 Hz and offer 100-277 VAC. If that is the case your first step is to confirm proper coupling / bridging via the 4 tap beacon test outlined in the full users manual. Since the home is 3 phase this is paramount to couple all three phases.

All I can say is you're damn lucky the people in that building are honest. LMAO - Well played . . .

If your area uses 110 VAC @ 50 Hz you can not use a AP / RE. As they operate on 60 Hz hence why I am asking for your confirmation as to the hardware in use and their specifications.

Can you better describe the entire Insteon network that exists in the new home? What type of ISY and firmware are you using at the new home? Have you confirmed proper coupling / bridging via the 4 tap beacon test as outlined in the full users manual? Also have you indeed confirmed the frequency the modified HUB is using vs the MS you have in hand? Perhaps some photo's of the controller, HUB, MS showing their stickers would help here.