Teken

Hello Drew, The following reply is mine alone so take it for what its worth. 1. My understanding is the latest PLM emits too strong of a RF signal and thus is causing all kinds of grief for those having a 2440 remote. 2. You can certainly try to move further away but would offer to you its just easier to place some tin foil over the PLM and do the same and see if it adds. Keeping in mind you must be near another dual band RF device.

You can't query a battery operated device it needs to be in linking mode to do so. If there are red exclamation marks the device didn't fully add into the system. Place the unit into linking mode again and do a restore device . . .

Hello Drew, The first couple of things of house keeping need to be done to ensure this is as painless as possible. If in doubt ensure the batteries are fresh and good to go. If so take the 2440 remote linc as far as possible from the 2413S PLM even if its in the garage etc. Place it into linking mode and then go back and try one of the two methods for linking. One is using the 2 blue / yellow whirling arrows and the other is with the light bulb where you enter the Insteon ID.

Good catch Brian - I keep forgetting for what ever reason the 2440 has a hard time being added into the network once a new 2314S PLM is replaced.

Hello Drew, Its been awhile since I linked the older 2440 but are you in fact holding the dim & bright button to place it into linking mode? Pressing any other buttons is intended for direct linking to other insteon devices. Meaning using that method assumes you have no controller like the ISY Series Controller and those links are created outside of the knowledge of the controller. NOTE: For the benefit of others in the future to place the older 2440 remote into linking mode. Press and hold both dim & bright buttons together until the LED flashes. This will place the remote into linking mode which the full users manual doesn't seem to address?

Hello Drew, I'm not sure if I understand your problem but once any remote is added you will see the separate nodes on the left hand side of the device tree. 1. You will then create a scene and call it what ever you like. 2. Then you will drag what ever remote button(s) to the newly created scene. 3. Any linked devices you wish to participate in that scene will also be dragged and dropped. Obviously you need to place the remote into linking mode and the LED will flash accordingly if done correctly. The system will automatically make the links and associations that's it. It sounds like you're mixing up doing a manual direct linking opposed to using the controller.

Ouch that's going to hurt if your not on a well! I would humbly suggest you consider installing one of those units that can be programmed for flow / time instead. These simple devices just work and doesn't rely on complicated networks and computer systems.

The appended link I just added speaks about the different methods to access the Admin Console. You have the choice of using a browser or the Java applet. Trying both will rule out something odd happening and might very well let you access the controller to see whats going on. The other portions of the WiKi discuss the different options from small to large invasive techniques to access or hard reset the controller in case you believe its gone bad. This is highly unlikely but I offer this in case its something you're considering. NOTE: If you read the WiKI it speaks about the single red error light and indicates it could be a bad SD card or improperly seated one.

First thing I would check is your router to confirm there isn't a IP conflict in case other appliances are set to DHCP. If you find nothing obvious you can follow the WiKi to select one of several options for the controller. Regardless of what method you select please do ensure you have a known *proven* back up in case its needed. At this juncture you need to order a 2413S PLM to solve the primary issue . . . WiKi Link: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page#Admin_Console_Icon_on_Your_Desktop

Normally no, but since you indicated the port / IP is changing I would verify what address this unit is on the network. If you have a controller that is set to DHCP a IP conflict could ensue.

If the PLM is not operating correctly the controller will be flashing the error LED. Assuming this is the PLM you will need to submit a RMA to Smarthome if its still under the 2 year warranty period. If not you can still have the item *Cross Docked* meaning they will ship you out a new unit first and wait for you to send back the older unit. Once they receive the older unit the temporary charge will be credited back.

Correct, and program(s) can meet those goals but doesn't seem odd? Perhaps I am too accustomed to seeing the KPL buttons lit the standard way? I dunno suppose this really comes down to preference . . .

Just so I am clear you wish to make what ever button that is pressed to be (ON) to be at a specific brightness? If so you can easily create programs that will over ride the base levels and even have them invoked based on time periods. The area I was trying to address is if you were trying to make something do the opposite this would lead to confusion in some fringe cases. So long as the home is uniformly set up across the home things will be fine . . . Its when a person does a few random *Here & There* approaches this can over the long term cause mayhem. As an aside there are always going to be fringe use cases in life such as limited budget. Where I've seen a person who couldn't afford a KPL to control the Fan Lincs. So they used the native functions of On, Fast On, and various double, triple tabs from programs to invoke the different speed settings etc. This is a great work around but is the perfect example of not being intuitive or expected to the lay person.

LOL . . .

Based on your reply a simple program to change the dim level to the On vs Off is just required. You do realize this may not be as intuitive to the lay person right? If you're the only person in the home that's not much of an issue but if there are others this may confuse people. Home Automation should always strive to be as natural as possible while doing as many things in a automated way that is seamless to the end user(s). Nothing is worse to see KPL's using odd characters, icons, or programming that makes no sense. Keeping in mind native scenes should always be used as the primary method to connect to the Insteon network. There are obvious use cases and needs that require programs to accomplish end goals but they should be extensions to the basic ability of the network. Doing so ensures long term satisfaction and expected behavior when a controller is off line or if there is a hardware failure.

This would require some planning for fringe cases with programs to accomplish this end goal.

I would encourage you to offer your thoughts in this *Wish List* thread created by Smartlabs: http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-category/new-insteon-device-wish-list Since you have probably read many of my past rants, raves, and feeback regarding Insteon. They continue to be one of the few companies that have actually taken on user requests for products and features. You never know someone may very well decide to include into the next *Fan Linc* firmware where it ignores the fast on / fast off. They already did this to the ALL ON / ALL OFF so can't see that being a huge issue. But having said this, this option should be a toggle in the *Options* menu because I am sure there are quite a few who could use the fast on / fast off ability.

LOL - No, you're correct the double tap will always be present and there is no way to stop it. I was just pointing out for the benefit of others that the hardware natively supports toggle, on, off. With respect to using programs like many here we try to use as many linked scenes as possible. This ensures if a controller is off line or program doesn't execute the *Over All System* will continue to operate for the lay person. Even though a home is a persons castle they should never lose sight of how things should work for the common man. I've been in many small to multi million dollar homes where the person went so over-bored on the use of programs. When disaster struck common switches and appliances were not available for use. Many of this is obviously personal choice but the consumer should never forget things should just work as expected. When things are so complicated or not expected you have lost sight of the whole HA ideology of: It just works!

For a (OFF) only mode you realize the hardware can send a off only if required, yes?

The 2440 is a RF device and hence requires another dual band RF device to communicate with. Since you noted you were able to get further along in the adding process. I would humbly suggest you do some basics first regardless of (IF) it was done before. 1. Ensure the batteries are fresh and proper voltage: Measure them! 2. Hard reset the 2440 once again even if you have to do several times to confirm. 3. If you have to be outside as silly as that may sound do so. 4. You will more than likely find out you have no problems direct linking the remote to something else. This at least confirms the remote is still fully operational etc.

LOL . . . [emoji38][emoji851] ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I don't recall if the beep and LED are on by default when first powered up as its been a long time since I installed one. Regardless, the reason I mention the beep and LED status indicator is that it will assist the installer to visually and aurally to hear the unit is functioning correctly. Obviously, you need to take great care that he is down from the fan before you even attempt to remote control the unit. This may sound funny and odd to say at first blush. But rest assured I have seen and read of a few people getting a fan blade in the face / head!

http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page#Resetting_Your_ISY

It should also be noted that you inform the installer to ensure the fan is set to *High*. You should also ensure the beep and LED's remain on until he tells you all is *Good 2 Go*. Then, you can turn off the beep and LED to ensure light leak isn't seen . . .

I believe anyone who is serious about long term performance should consider the example outlined by Stu. Use either a Micro or (ILL) Inline Linc if it still has the sense wire? In the past the older ILL's had a sense wire but recall this was slowly phased out in newer models. Having said this, I've had several Insteon motions sensors deployed outside for more than seven years. One has been installed in my garage for about five years and hasn't skipped a beat. The other is mounted to a 25 foot multi purpose pole and has been exposed to +40 to -45'C weather for 7 plus years. Its fair to say my use case is well outside what the device is spec'd for and can't throw stones at Smartlabs if it failed. It should be noted the device also doesn't have an official IP rating so this needs to be kept in mind.