Teken

I have used quite a few of the Ubiquiti hardware but most were geared toward their POE routers, WiFi, Repeaters, and long range AP's. Never tried their remote power switch but based on personal & business dealings with the company. I would have no issue considering or entertaining buying one for home use. As an aside for those interested in knowing some basic information about the older units. The square shaped DLI unit had a continuous loud annoying fan which also sucked power doing nothing 24.7.365. The units pre hardware (5) release units always had a Ethernet card failure very similar to Smartlabs famous Smartlinc HUB. They would always automagically just stop working . . .

Do not entertain the idea of purchasing any of the older DLI products that have the fan and look almost square. Also, don't purchase any of the units below version 4. DLI remote switches from 5 and above are over all pretty solid . . . Having said that the companies warranty, service after the sale is completely sh^t and not worth the paper its written on. We have / had over 6500 of these units in various flavors and model years so I know what I am talking about. I supported every model for more than 15 years. Tech support is brutal on the first order . . . Warranty support is even below that . . . From personal experience DLI is one of the worst American companies I have ever had to deal with!

After looking over the programs I don't see how this would help in the over all comfort of the home?!?! No software program is going to supersede thermodynamics, heat soaking, and the need to remove the heat. The closet a person will get to off setting heat / cold is employing the proper amount of mass, density, and PCM. I've applied many of the concepts of *Passive Haus* and working on integrating PCM technology into my home. After eight years living in my home doing the above I can affirm to you all the technical concepts absolutely work. As noted above one of the other missing factors (elements) that should have been listed as number (7) is leakage / air exchange per hour. All of these elements are critical if the holy grail of energy and economic savings are the goal as each of them are integral to the system.

Not sure what this program is going to do if the most basics are not present or done. Assuming over all comfort is the ultimate goal there is no software method that will supersede the need to have the following present in the home. 1. Appropriate colored exterior shingles, walls, doors. 2. Proper shading from tree's, awning, terrain. 3. Proper amount of insulation in the roof, walls, floors. 4. Sufficient mass / density in the super structure. 5. Passive cooling / heating design elements. 6. Correct R rated windows, doors, GDO. Those who are serious about energy conservation and environmental control should review *Passive Haus* techniques and PCM technology. PCM technology hasn't caught on quite yet but those who use such materials will notice greater comfort and consistent temperatures through out their home.

The iMeter Solo displays the KWH in the Admin Console but this value is not available for use in programs. The only value that can be used is the watts which simply requires you to define the wattage needed before it fires off an email.

Hello, I've been testing out the *Ask My Buddy* service for a few months now. I have to say my initial testing and feedback from others has been extremely positive. My goal for this service was to extend the usefulness of the Amazon product line for those with physical disabilities. Its safe to say your free service meets those needs and hits the mark. I would like to personally thank you and your fine team in offering this free service to the public.

It should also be noted most power line noise can be filtered out using line filters. RF noise issues are near impossible to filter out and the choices are quite limited which are: 1. Remove RF device. 2. Replace RF device. 3. Turn off RF device. 4. Move RF device. Its fair to say all four options are rarely done either out of need of the product - its no longer being made - the device can't be moved due to use case and local access - and last it cost too much to replace only to find out a replacement offers the same RF issues. I know lots of folks who get into the whole home automation believe Z-Wave / ZigBee is the super hero hardware of choice. But anyone who has used any of the two can tell you they require 2-3 times more investment just to make the network operate consistently and reliably. For Z-Wave with the advent of generation 5 plus hardware this has improved lots of the consistency & reliability issues seen with previous generation products. Having said this - RF based hardware like Z-Wave / ZigBee still require massive amounts of repeaters to operate in a home. Insteon's dual band technology makes sense and newer products have increased their RF output to better its performance and reliability.

The questions you really need answers to are is the inverter / charger a pure sine wave unit vs a modified sine wave. Even if it states its a *Pure Sine Wave* inverter lots of the cheaper brands have a much larger variance which is outside of the POCO allowances of +/- 5%. You also need to find out what the T.H.D (Total Harmonic Distortion) this unit will emit when operating in line vs battery. Last but not least if the unit uses power line Ethernet to communicate like the Enphase micro inverters do. Some have invested the money for what seems to be a very cheap and simple *choke* filtering using ferrite magnets.

Hello Michel, In past discussions in this forum it was stated no further development of this product or its sister companion the *Energy Display* would see further development. The reason(s) given at that time was the lack of user base, resources, and that the product was (EOL) End Of Life. With respect to the product being EOL - I am not sure how anyone would know this since its still being sold by Smarthome. But certainly, it has not been *further* developed since its initial launch. The iMeter Solo as of this writing can only be used to monitor the wattage and used in programs. There is no ability to use the accumulated KWH in the very same. Currently this product also indicates negative wattage values in the drop down menu in the Admin Console. I have no clue how anyone could use or cause such condition to exist though. As you explained to me before features and support are based on ROI and user base demands which make sense in general terms. I fully understand UDI has been hard at work in many other areas such as 5.XX and moving away from Java in hopes of ushering in the new web browser standard. All of the time and resources spent on the above serves the greater good for all but does not address the fact several Insteon products are not fully supported. This condition has existed for years - If that isn't a perfect example of being abandoned I don't know what is. My view has always been that all features in the Insteon products are fully supported. As of this writing there are several hardware devices that have never been further developed to include features which are present in the hardware. Because of this its impossible to use said feature as its intended for those needing them. 1. 2843-222 Open-Close Sensor: The latest hardware revision has removed the jumper pin to allow dual mode. This option is now software based and must be enabled via software from a controller. The ISY Series Controller does not support this requirement and thus users who need to enable it, can not. This hardware change has existed for more than a year but the ISY firmware has not been updated to support it. 2. 2457D2 Lamp Linc: This device supports beep, programming lock out, blink on traffic, error blink. All of these same features have been present and fully supported in the latest 2635-222 On-Off Relay Module in the ISY since launch. I honestly can't think of a reason why the very same feature sets could not be included for the 2457D2?!?! These software features have existed since product launch which spans at least 4 years. The ISY has never supported these features in any firmware update and I consider that abandoned. 3. Energy Display: I am not going to hash out what's not included or supported as this has been discussed many times. However I still hold the view this product should be fully supported based on the EDOC's which clearly indicate what capabilities are present and available for use. In closing, my expectation are / is these features should have been included since product launch. If it couldn't be done due to not knowing the proper API specs etc. One would have expected at some point in time the information and specifications would be obtained and included at a later date. As of this writing depending upon product(s) whether it be the iMeter, Energy Display, Open-Close, Lamp Linc, etc. This lack of support has spanned 1-4 years which in a laymen's terms would be considered abandoned.

The ISY Series Controller supports viewing the current wattage and accumulated KWH in the Admin Console. The only option in the Admin Console is the ability to reset the KWH value. The KWH value can also be reset via programs . . . You can use the wattage value either positive vs negative in programs as well to activate / deactivate based on your personal needs and thresholds. As of this writing this product is not being developed and has been abandoned by Smartlabs / UDI.

Why? Because she thought like in the movie Star Man that yellow means go faster?!? LOL . . . My girl friend bless her heart is very aural and thus needs / wants to hear things make a noise. After showing her the two squished sets of neon yellow chalks. Her only reply was how come they don't make more noise when run over?!! With a reply like that I gave up and decided to go with the tennis ball because she gets the visual Que and a nice thud. What do I get out of all of this - no more having to squirm from the side trying to open the doors properly.

Used the speed bump (chalk) method for awhile on my own for a long time. For the braille drivers who insist upon drive by feel it didn't work too well because they thought the *Crack* was the final indicator. Sadly after going through a few nice sets I gave up . . . I have a old school hazard light detector with the customary green, yellow, red position lights. Which was in service for a long time at my parents home but during the move some decided they wanted it more than I. Bastaards . . .

Hello Mark, There wasn't a real reason for using the glow in the dark paracord. It just so happen to be the first bunch I grabbed from my rope box. I have about 35 different types of ropes in various material for climbing, repelling, pulling, securing, etc. The glow in the dark tracer paracord intended use case is to help locate zipper pulls, gear, and for location marking like on a tree / rock. The one's I have on hand will remain illuminated for more than 12 hours which offers plenty of time for the sun to rise for the next day. I wanted a low tech / low cost method which did not require batteries, chem sticks, etc which could be reused over and over again for emergency / survival purposes. For more high visibility use case I rely on low yield radiated cells . . .

I just went with the old school method and hung up a tennis ball on a glow in the dark string. Car approaches and hits the windshield in the center of the rear view mirror - you know the vehicle is in the proper location. Then again I don't have to worry about depth as I made my garage to be longer (24.XX feet deep).

As I stated above all of the safety measures need to be adjusted and calibrated per the makers recommendations for the loads and unique environmentals at play. Of note newer models like mine also monitor the cable tension and this is yet another element that needs to be fine tuned and fully operational. When the safety eye is not operating as expected the other elements come into play in a critical manner. Its not just the fact the door should auto- reverse itself its how much force it must detect before doing so. Lastly, the crush depth setting is one of many critical setting(s) to ensure a long lasting door gasket seal. In my travels all of the DIYers that have done it themselves almost always crush the door to the dead bottom. This Is Wrong . . . The amount of deflection is based on the thickness, material type, and surface level. The largest door in the home should never allow any light / air movement to enter a properly sealed door assembly.

Too funny I was just watching a you tube video from the icom rep with two good old boys on their channel about the IC-7300! It would be fantastic to be able to talk to you and others across the 49th parallel via SSB! You could be my *Elmer* to figure out all the jargon and technical stuff. Ha . . .

Hello Frank, For any hollow walls try to find a reputable company that does cellulose blown in insulation. Essentially, they cut out holes at the top and the bottom of the wall cavity. They then insert the hose at the top and blow in the cellulose until it compacts and starts to fill the void. Once its properly filled and compacted they wait for the cellulose to spew out the bottom . . . At that point they rinse and repeat the entire procedure until all the walls are insulated. The reason for using cellulose is due to the higher density when compared to fiberglass. Next, because cellulose due to its density offers higher rejection of heat soaking / heat transfer. Almost all the latest cellulose products are green and don't use any harmful VOC's, and have added chemicals which make it almost fire proof and rodent / bug repellent. Lastly, because the material is dense it offers excellent noise abatement along with sound deadening. I would encourage you to also insulate as many interior walls to while this process is underway. Again, doing so will ensure each room, zone, floor offers its own insulated box / container. You will quickly notice heating / cooling for specific zones will require much less run time along with privacy. Should you ever be considering a large reno where some or all the ceiling, walls, will be replaced consider PCM technology. Phase Change Materials are the latest technology which allows a person to add mass / density to a home superstructure with out the added weight. The latest PCM drywall and wall boards offer 2-10 times the density of concrete, brick, and stone. The benefit of PCM technology is that it operates in the reverse fashion very much like an ice cube. When its cold the PCM material will change state and absorb the ambient heat and when it cools down it will release that same energy back into the room in a gradual manner. This technology and process ensures any room, floor, zone is not impacted by variations in quick rise in temps / dip in temps. Which ultimately offers greater comfort and reduced energy costs over the long run. BWT: So awesome to know you're a HAM operator - as I have just started on this journey myself and look forward to taking the test hopefully by years end. At the moment I have been reviewing various pieces of gear for travel and in home stations. Icom series transceivers like the 7851 unit . . .

This sound exactly like how my cousins are in Texas. LOL . . .

Frank, That was awesome insight and thank you for circling back with the group. I noted you said the stucco walls have no insulation at all was that a typo?!?! If true you literally have stucco -> vapor barrier -> OSB / Plywood -> 2x4 / 2x6 Framing -> Drywall / Plaster? If so I can only imagine the massive amount of heat saturation with my thermo imaging gun! It would be like living in a hot box oven . . . Wow!

I am more curious to know why its taking so long for Amazon to sell Echo, Dot, Tap, world wide? Worst case allow sales Canada or any English speaking nation. Its a massive gold mine that Amazon is sitting on yet leadership is squandering away. With Apple, Google, Microsoft, Sonos, and many others committed to releasing their own voice hardware what is the deal?!?! Its not like the public wouldn't understand certain features or platforms would not be ready in all markets. All I know is if it wasn't for my a good friend and partner in crime Big Bad Barry (BBB). I would still be left on the side lines looking through the window as others enjoyed the convenience and power of the Echo.

*Safety Nancy* I can tell you with 100% certainty what elvisimprsntr offered in terms of risk & liabilities should not be summarily dismissed. Regardless of the method you use to remotely control your GDO there are many basic elements which maybe 2% of the population actually ever does. I've blogged about this for more than 25 years and have yet to see, read, or witness a soul ever doing the following. Keeping in mind none of this is fun, exciting, or top of mind given the real world. 1. Smoke Alarms: Perform monthly checks by pressing the test button. Change out the batteries based on DST change or validate the voltage with a DMM to ensure the batteries are still with in tolerances. 2. AFCI / GFCI: Perform monthly checks by pressing the test button. Ensuring the unit trips and can be reset per the manufacturers specifications. I can tell you 100% of the members in this forum have failed to do the above. Now I want each and every one of you to consider the following for the GDO. 1. Safety Beam: Is the beam alignment to specifications? Have you tested it to ensure upon detection the door reverses? 2. Emergency Release: Have you confirmed the cable is sound and properly attached. Does pulling the release operate per the makers specifications? 3. Torsion Springs: Have you inspected and confirmed all springs are sound and loaded per the door load? 4. Counter Balance: With the emergency release enabled does the door hold its position in all positions? Can you lift the door with one finger and it shoots straight to the top? If so wrong . . . Does it require both hands with great strength to lift or pull the door up or down? If so wrong . . . A properly balanced door will require one hand to lift and pull from the handle with a minimal of force. The door should never shoot straight up - if it does the amount of turns on the torsion spring is preloaded too high and will result in early failure. If the reverse is true then it will require too much effort to lift the door when the GDO fails. All of the above impacts the GDO motors long term service life . . . 5. Force Detection: Following the makers installation manual the force detection must be calibrated and validated on a regular basis to ensure it meets the stated specifications. 6. Crush Depth: Is the GDO properly set to close at the proper depth per the makers installation guide lines? These six basic things I can guarantee you not a soul has ever done on a regular basis, none. If people can't even do the smoke, AFCI, GFCI, monthly checks what makes them think they would ever consider doing the six inspection elements I just listed for the GDO?!?!? This doesn't even address basic maintenance of checking the rails, guides, and wheels. Anyone who feels uncomfortable in doing any of the 6 steps I listed off I would encourage you to call a certified GDO installer you trust to perform the very same. Have them show you each of the steps so you can do it later. Doing so essentially has given you a paid lesson to the inner workings of your GDO which is for the better. In my travels I have seen more damaged cars, bikes, and sadly deaths because people don't take the time to ensure the largest door in their home is properly installed and operating. To think the latest fad is literal remote control from clear across the globe with out a second thought. Safety Nancy Out . . .

You have at least three things happening. Trigger reverse needs to be removed. You need to change the sensor if you wish to see the I/O Linc LED follow the doors true state. The ISY will need to be placed on a UPS to avoid the auto query upon start up or you can disable it. Placing the controller on a UPS is the preferred choice however. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

In case this is web browser issue try a different one. If its not a web browser issue it could be their portal.

My humble suggestion is you need to get the ISY Series Controller functioning first. One suggestion is to use the firmware that will not go into *Safe Mode* if the PLM is not detected or becomes unreachable. Once the new firmware is loaded you can worry about restoring the 2413S PLM.

Hello Kevin, As always greatly appreciate your on going efforts and development with this fantastic project. I am hoping to get into this project at some point but life has been trying. Perhaps, I may have to weigh out the time vs reward ratio and just send you money for a complete unit! Ha . . .