Teken

Not really sure what your after but no two devices send their heartbeat at the same time interval. So don't know what you mean by fixed vs variable?!? [emoji848][emoji53] ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Login to the Admin Console: Programs -> Summary -> Variable Control 2 for those leak sensors. What is the last run / last finish time recorded in the summary log? If the logs show they haven't changed for example 2-3 days or what ever. It could mean the sensor is too far from a RF to power line device or the battery is low. Even though the batteries have been spec'd for 10 years of service Smartlabs has indicated a few batches released in the wild came with less than fresh batteries. 1. Measure battery voltage for both units ensuring they are with in specs. 2. Verify your Insteon RF to Powerline mesh is adequate in those areas.

Answers in line . . .

Answers in line . . .

Hello John, I am having a hard time following what you're saying. Your initial post indicates you bought 3 remotes which I assume is to control another Insteon piece of hardware like the following: Switch Linc, On-Off, Lamp Linc, ILL, etc. Linking a remote to any of the following will always end up being a *Responder*. You can not activate / control a battery operated remote control via another Insteon device because its asleep until you press the button. NOTE: As an aside your UI and Firmware should match otherwise odd things will happen. Please ensure you use and down load the respective Admin Console for the firmware in use.

That's interesting to know but also believe sometimes investing can also mean offering monies opposed to getting a piece of the company. I wouldn't be in favor of any company getting a slice of the virtual pie in UDI unless the terms were agreeable to all parties. I just find it odd and frustrating to see so many other products garner so much mass adoption in the open market like Wink, Iris, Smartthings, Vera, etc. Yet many of them are just brutal products . . . The ratio of developers that support Smartthings, Vera, vs ISY easily exceeds a 100 to 1 ratio if not higher!

So the fund isn't simply a method to help pay for development but geared toward partial ownership of the service / hardware platform? I was thinking this was a straight up fund set up to help those interested in developing some kind of service / hardware platform and not intended to take a piece of the virtual pie from a company.

I have no words for that . . . Is it possible there were criteria not met in the initial application that *Now* have or can be met?

As some of you may know Amazon has created a $100 million development fund which is targeted to help promote its voice driven hardware like the Echo, Dot, Tap. Amazon is very serious about promoting its products and ingraining its platform to be the preferred choice in the HA market place. The direct link can be found here: https://developer.amazon.com/appsandservices/solutions/alexa/alexa-fund Based on a quick glance, some of the projects and services funded by the Amazon Development Fund in my view are pretty dumb and don't offer much practical use or long term adoption from the masses. Given this recent announcement of a 3.2 million grant from the CEC to UDI: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/19079-udi-is-awarded-a-32m-grant-from-cec/ I would encourage and plead that UDI seriously consider placing their hat to garner some of the funds in the development of the Echo system. UDI has already started on this path successfully via the ISY Portal Services. Why not get paid for future development and service support? Even if the fund offered $100,000 K in this area these are resources that will help finance more development and features for all of us. In my view the ISY Series Controller and the cloud hosted portal offer more value to the general public than most if not all of the past recipients of the Amazon Development Fund. I honestly can't see UDI being turned down for funds when you review some of the epic and dumb services they have backed thus far. Lastly, I have created a POLL in hopes the forum members would show their support in this endeavor and help UDI see the value in doing so. I can't honestly say applying for this vs the CEC is more complicated but it surely can't be harder! Ha . . .

I can only speak for myself but for me most if not all things I do in my home. ROI is not at the top of the list of priorities when I make an investment to new technology or hardware upgrade. For others I am sure ROI is top of mind and is the primary driver . . . The reality is most if not all expensive investments just doesn't pencil out over the long term if one is thinking about the cycle life of a product. Then again, there are things that offer immediate savings and results which are indeed tangible in terms of savings whether it be personal comfort, energy consumption, environmental. A perfect example is investing in insulation in a home - To a certain extent it doesn't matter how you do it so long as its done properly and rated for the environment. This single investment will keep paying for itself over time forever. The effects are immediate and noticeable to the home and the human inside. When you talk about things like geo-thermal unless you are extremely lucky to have purchased the best gear in the market. None of these systems will pencil out in terms of ROI, durability, or long term use. The constant energy draw, maintenance, and failed parts that need to be replaced not only extends to the so called ROI. But sadly takes away the whole point in investing in such a system . . . Geo-thermal makes sense in extreme weathers like where I live but the insanely expensive price to install said system doesn't make sense in the short term, or even long term, if (true savings) is the primary factor. People will see more immediate and long term savings in planning, designing, and deploying a passive hause. The techniques and process is well documented in the industry and I only wish I knew more when I decided to build my home seven years ago! Using Passive Hause techniques adds about 10 - 38% more to the final bill. But the immediate savings and human comfort is forever and costs you nothing ever again. That in my eyes is true ROI because you see huge savings each and every year forever . . . When people talk about appliances like fridges, freezers, you're hard pressed to see huge gains in savings unless your coming from a 1950 - 1980 appliance. Given the feds in both countries have mandated extremely tight rules in the new Energy Star 2 testing and certification. It now comes down to quality, reliability, and initial cost for said appliance. Then again, if you purchase an insanely priced and dumb so called smart fridge from Samsung which has silly cameras so you can see what items are inside. Well, Charlie Brown its not likely you will ever see a ROI in the lifetime of that product because it will have failed long before you ever see the ROI come to be! When you talk about devices like the ISY, GEM, Dash Box, etc. It really comes down to how you use and implement the systems in your home. If its strictly in terms of energy monitoring it will probably take a long time to ever see actual savings. If you on the other hand push forward in the energy management than things start to make sense and savings can and will be had. As I stated in another thread lots of people go into the whole energy thing out of curiosity / fad. Very few if any of the people who get into this as a fad ever pass the next steps into energy management. For those who's curiosity has transitioned into wants / needs, than things get interesting and lots of potential is available. Most if not all of these things could be easily resolved by having nothing . . . If you live like a hermit and your needs and wants are low - this same sort of mentality will literally translate to lower costs for energy. But none of that is fun, inspired, or long term for the human and its companions in life. Life is very much about choices and priorities - Like Scott had mentioned he values overall enjoyment vs pushing the envelope in energy savings. While others try to find a balance of the two and hopefully find a middle ground with Baby Duck! Ha . . .

Hello Art, It could very well be the TSTAT is bad and should be returned under warranty. Keep in mind even with the best coupling / bridging it will never supersede the need to filter out, remove, replace, noise makers / signal suckers. Sadly, many electronic items made today are designed for a very limited shelf life. Just because something has worked for ages fine doesn't mean it will continue to do so over time. Even if we take out poor quality / designed products as being the primary factor people need to understand other things come into play. Bad / dirty power to constant micro surges that happen each and everyday in a home. These micro surges come from fridges, freezers, sump, stove, microwave, etc. In time these inband surges will affect other electronics in the home due to the effect of surges / sags.

Paul, Appreciate the insight and feed back as I am always interested to see what is happening in other areas of NA. Along with the *Why's* to people opting in / out of such programs. To me as a lay person I can sort of understand the peak charges but lets be honest. The opposite (savings) better be worth it to the consumer because there is no way that it pencils out or makes sense when in your example of $0.95 for CPP. I would expect and want my other none peak tiers to be like $0.01 - 0.05 per KWH! There is no way anyone can ever explain away how someone could be charged 10 to 20 times the going rate. In the big picture its good the industry and people are trying to do their part and conserve and reduce the energy consumption in their regions. But some of the methods and ideas really are out of this world if I hadn't seen the $0.95 CPP rate in writing I would have easily called out bull sh^t instantly. But, shame on me in thinking the world is fair, and run with common sense . . . I can't even imagine the poor [censored] who gets a bill in that tier because they forgot to communicate that information to the family etc. Just wow . . .

Hey Paul, Can you offer some insight as to why you decided not to participate in such a program? Off the top of my head some basic reasons would be it doesn't meet your lifestyle and hence more likely it would cost you more to be on it. EDIT: Just read the link provided by you and wow $0.95 during CPP!

It should be noted that many if not all electronics over time will start to become a noise maker / signal sucker. The sad fact is we no longer live in the good old 50 - 80's where companies made things to last and were based on quality components and at the time sound engineering. So the reality is (IF) you ever find a product that is made solid and offers you more than 5 years of service. Keep buying and supporting these companies because they haven't forgotten how things should be made. NOTE: People should never confuse a product being made in China as the final indicator of over all quality and lifespan. Quality is dictated by the company who is trying to meet a defined out the door price point and profit margin. One only has to look at (generally speaking) Apple product . . . They are some of the best in class built, designed, and made hardware on the planet. Yet they are also one of the most bloated priced items known to man which cater to people who believe there is true value in the product. Tens of thousands of quality products are made in China every day. The only reason they are is because the company has decided to use the highest quality components, design, and hardware in hopes of the quality will reflect better on their name brand.

Hello fmk2, Could you share with the group what the rate was before you went on this plan? Along with what the lower rate is now with the new plan in place? All I can say is *Holy Sh^T* if I had to pay $0.60 per KWH I would be in the poor house! Just trying to better understand where you live and if you know why the rates are so high. I've read about a few places with high electrical charges like Hawaii and others but $0.60 per KWH is just wow.

LOL . . . [emoji848][emoji851][emoji847][emoji55]

I have nothing of value to add to your query but is the rate of $0.60 KWH correct?!?!

Hello, The first thing you need to do is confirm you have proper coupling / bridging via the 4 tap beacon test. The process is normally outlined in the full users manual for the various products found at the Smarthome retail site. Essentially you will tap the set button 4 times very quickly - This will cause any Insteon hardware with in the RF range to blink its LED. Keep in mind various generations of Insteon products with out dual colored LED's relied on the user to watch the single colored LED. In a general sense if the receiver is blinking or green in color both sides of the electrical feed is coupled / bridged. Any device that is doing nothing indicates its either too far away to receive the RF bridging signal or that hardware is indeed on the same electrical line as the initiator device. NOTE: All the coupling in the world will not supersede the need to identify and remove / replace noise makers - signal suckers in the home. Meaning almost anything electronic can absorb or inject noise on the power line. Remember the 2413S PLM should never be plugged into the same outlet or circuit that has a computer, cell charger, UPS, TV, A/V, etc Most if not all noise makers / signal suckers can be filtered out using a Insteon Filter Linc. Your task today is to conform you have proper bridging / coupling. Next ensure the PLM is not on the same line as any noise makers / signal suckers. A perfect example even though tedious is to take just one product that will not link and remove it from the wall and wire it to a extension cord you can sacrifice. You will then plug said hardware and modified extension cord into the same electrical outlet as the 2413S PLM. If you find the unit links fine this tells you there is noise in the install site. This can be as simple as the light bulbs in the fixtures, ballasts, transformer, etc. Ideally the most direct approach is to unplug every single device in the home that you humanely can. Once that is done and (assuming) you have solid coupling / bridging devices will link. Keep in mind if you have lots of single band devices coupling and the use of Access Points (AP) / Range Extenders (RE) are paramount to ensure a consistent and reliable Insteon network. As the home begins to use more dual band hardware the reliance of AP / RE's are less. But they do indeed offer stronger and more consistent RF to power line conversion for battery only devices like: MS, Open-Close, Leak, Hidden Door Sensors.

But, but, but, you have so many problems where does one begin?!? LOL . . .

This problem sounds very familiar and in the past the problem was identified that the geo location was thrown off because the persons ISP (Public IP address) was indicating a different hop than their actual location. Google your public IP and determine where on the map it says it thinks your connected to. This problem was supposed to be fixed in the last several firmware builds.

Ideally you should be tethered to the network and not use a WiFi connection when doing such a task. There are too many outside factors that can impact a connection or the computer from turning off etc. Case in point many computers out of the box running what ever flavor of Windows OS have power saving settings. These impact the screen, sleep, hibernate, HDD, WiFi, and power modes. If this is on a laptop and its not plugged in ensure you have it plugged in and shut off all energy star power settings etc. If its on a stand alone PC do the same thing to ensure the HDD, WiFi, NIC, is not turned off etc. Otherwise you will be doing this marry go round ten more times . . .

OK, that is good because if you were trying to do this remotely off site there are lots of moving parts to ensure success. Also, to have WAN access you need only configure your router to forward the IP address of the ISY Series Controller.

Smartlabs has attempted to resolve the issue by replacing several capacitors in the latest models. The forum indicates they are on hardware 2.0 to 2.30 as of this writing. However, several people have indicated a 2413S PLM failure under six months. Whether or not these PLM's were indeed bad no one can say but Smartlabs.

Please tell me you're doing this locally and not remotely?!?!

1. Keep in mind all you need to do is unplug the PLM. 2. Remove power from the ISY no need to remove any cords leading to the PLM. 3. Wait about 10-30 seconds and plug the PLM back into the electrical outlet. 4. Apply power to the ISY Series Controller and let it settle down. 5. Log back into the Admin Console and disable battery writes if you have a pro. 6. Perform the restore modem procedure and get a cold one and sit back and wait. 7. Assuming the restore modem is completed you will need to check how many links are in the system. 8. If all is well in step seven you can start the write updates to the battery devices one at a time. 9. If that goes well your next step is to verify that the Admin Console reflects the change of state when you manually operate any switches in your home. You will need to do the reverse using the Admin Console to ensure the controller has command and control of the related hardware in the home. 10. Keep in mind you will need to do a restore device after all of the steps above are done. This will take a considerable amount of time so plan this out when you have plenty of time to waste. 11. Last but not least assuming all of the above is done and completes as expected do a complete system back up and place several copies on a thumb drive, cloud storage, and other computers for later use.