Teken

This may offer you some insight about the question at hand: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17271-hub-ii-isy-echo-integration/page-1

Not to completely derail this fine thread but the problem is when a fire fighter enters a home which uses these beam materials. When a fire condition exists these engineered beams not only burn quicker but much hotter than normal 2x12" solid wood planks which are sandwiched together. Thus when said fire fighter is walking around unbeknownst to him the floor gives way. This issue has caused quite a few deaths in the fire fighter community and Government is pondering a rule, law, ordinance which states any home using said engineered beams must have a simple (common) label affixed to the door or side of the entrance way. This in a round about way lets the fire fighter use alternate means or techniques to fight the fire or traverse the area in question. Clear as mud?

With anything there will always be pros / cons as it was with for AFCI, GFCI, Sumps, etc. Back in the day the technology simply wasn't ready and most times this came off as a money grab by the various industries pushing said safety devices etc. This hick town I live in now only in the last seven years or so adopted fire break building codes. Meaning way back in the day if you had an attached garage the separating wall didn't need to use X-rated drywall to protect the home?!?! Anyways as per usual human life needed to be lost before people grabbed a brain to do otherwise. Right now this same hick town is still hoeing and humming about whether to enforce a rule where any home that uses engineered support beams must have a placard on the front of the entry door etc. I am sure it will take more human loss before they get a brain that it only makes sense.

In our town local ordinances have been put into place where water / chemical suppression is required for condo's, side by side (Town house), and some HOA's. Obviously apartments, business buildings all use water suppression systems but hope very much this trend to include a fire system to residential homes takes off. This is where places like the United States clearly lead the market and truly see the benefit.

In the previous image you provided is this not a program for a Z-Wave device?

Can't say as it's not very common in Canada. But in the USA and other warmer climates water is the preferred choice. I use Halon because it was available, cheap, and works. The biggest down side is the obvious human death that can happen if the room is sealed. Comes down to common sense deployment and following best practices. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Either is mine but for those who have common water suppression systems need to ensure code is followed. For those of us who use halon suppression for component protection along with chemical agents for wide and immediate fire abatement it's a good compromise for using water . Can't use water in the GWN when it's -40'C! ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Also keep in mind some of the units fail closed upon power loss. That should never be the case for the main water line. Also note these devices may never be placed before a fire suppression system which supplies water. Both of these points are rarely if ever considered by those who install them. [emoji53] Other factors to consider is the type of water you have. This is why having a bypass service loop is paramount as this allows you to remove the unit for buildup inspection and cleaning. Those considering using this for hot water must always perform a yearly inspection because calcium buildup is always present in hot water applications. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Are you using one of the Alpha 5.XX firmware releases and have you confirmed the correct UI and firmware? Looks to be your list is called *Your Devices* opposed to the Insteon / X10.

I've seen this in three cases one is the LED bulb, two being the hardware needed a hard reset, third the hardware was failing / defective. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Good man. [emoji847] Also it should be noted my comments were provided for insight and guidance for all and not directed toward any single person. [emoji41] For those of us who have come from an industrial setting lots of these checks and balances are just basic SOP. No magic here it's just experience with lots of common sense. Other things to consider is how these valves fail when interrupted or see a voltage swing. Some will fail open while others will return to their last known state. Anyone considering doing this sort of thing really need to test, validate, and follow up to ensure the correct response is seen. For me I can totally understand the whole steamy shower issue because it costs money, introduces fire safety, and is the leading cause to mold. I simply gave the water bill to the little monster! [emoji13] ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Don't know how anyone is going to reliably confirm this valve is open / closed? [emoji848] Hope? [emoji849] Also, one thing you need to check is how much drift the valve will see over the course of XXX full cycles. Even though the OP is just turning the valve open / closed for his use case. Those intending to use this device or similar on the main water line really need to confirm how this device behaves over extended use. Lastly, it should be noted confirmation of the actual open / close state when the manual dial is used should not count on the red hash mark as the final indicator position. [emoji107] Because if you look after 100 plus cycles the red hash mark won't align to a real world open / closed position. [emoji53] This is why those using this type of device must consider and invest the money for a proper manual bypass with the appropriate down stream shut offs. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I truly believe some of you just need to unplug from this conversation. [emoji855] Let's all keep this real it doesn't matter what anyone thinks it's up to UDI to move forward with this idea. Assuming if it's even doable in terms of ROI. Nothing saddens me more than to see long term members argue on points that are valid on both sides. ☹️️ Take the good, bad, ugly, and throw away the rest. [emoji5] Good grief - Some of you just like to argue and get others into a tizzy! [emoji12] That's my job! [emoji851][emoji38][emoji106] ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I believe some people are starting to follow the little bread crumbs now . . .

You already offered a piece of hardware that meets the question posed. Now, back to my question(s) as to is there more than one door, how is the door secured once its closed, is this door the outside door. None of this is complicated to answer but does impact the next steps . . . To wit what is going to control this magnetic door opener? Does he have an ELK system tied to the ISY Series Controller? If yes this makes the secondary questions not so critical. If on the other hand he doesn't have an ELK system integrated with the ISY Series Controller what is he going to use to confirm and make the door close if their is a failure? Again, every question leads to another logical one which needs to be considered and answered. Perhaps being involved in force protection and security for more than 25 years and seeing the best and worst implementations gives me pause . . .

I'm sorry your missing the whole point and the obvious reasons for asking the questions in the first place. I don't see how asking pertinent questions would annoy a person considering that's the whole point of being on a forum. Which is to pose questions and receive feedback which ultimately offers exchanges of pros / cons and ideas. With respect to how someone is going to *Run his equipment* that is based on industry best practices, local codes, and fire marshal requirements. Some may see only so far as their nose - I prefer to see the entire road . . .

The OP has already stated this door is normally open during the day. When they leave this door is locked and is also part of the security zone. The alarm will not arm the system unless the door is closed and my ONLY question was what locks the door and also offered a suggestion / question. Even though the OP did not ask this specific question it begs to be asked . . . Its relevant because normally there is only one door and hence its considered a perimeter door and must be secured. I can't be any clearer on that point regardless of if that was the primary question. Everyday I read people asking random questions and everyday the question they are asking isn't the true intent. I therefor take the time to ask more probing questions in hopes of offering a true solution. Clear as mud? More crumbs?

Now are you following the bread crumb?

Then why bother even closing the door?

Why would you not care where the door is? If its a single door that leads into the home that is considered a perimeter door and hence why its being monitored. If there are two doors than that removes the primary concern about security.

Garage -> Mudroom Door -> Interior Door to home. <-- Correct?

Your going to have to offer a little more as I am not quite clear as to why the door is ajar in the first place? Also what locks the door once the door is closed? Is the inside handle and door knob / dead bolt preset?

What's the over all purpose of this set up?

Could very well be a bad SD memory card not very common but it does happen.

With respect to any temperature probe being used a person must ensure the proper diameter wire, run length, and topology is used for 1 wire networks. If you are using something other than 1 wire - wire length, diameter, and stable voltage is key.