Teken

LOL much better shape . . . Didn't notice you added in the Minneapolis link and out of all of them that one looks to be in great shape. The one going for $900.XX is also in decent shape but has some blemishes on the front in the center unless thats a piece of fluff / dust.

McIntosh was a very high end audio maker in the past and continues to be. But sadly the seller is having a wet dream if he believes that amp will fetch $1200.XX USD. The whole Ad screams sucker . . . You can tell he didn't take very much care in the power amplifier as its been beaten to death. On the Audiogon rating scale he would get a F for cosmetics alone. I personally don't believe he spent $800.00 to supposedly get the amp tuned. If he did it just means hes just another sucker who falls in the same audio camp who truly believe spending $2K on a power cable will *Open the sound stage* like its some kind of fairy dust to these people. Having been heavily invested in the high end audio / video arena the single most negative thing that has come out of the field. Are the countless pansy reviewers who use words and phrases only a used car salesmen could appreciate. Companies like Bryston, Krell, Livingston, Nakamichi, etc don't need unicorn fairy dust to sell there wares. The equipment is just solid and built to last unlike all of the latest toys on the market place. Back in the day companies like Bob Carver, DBX, Onkyo, Sony, Denon, all made incredible A/V gear. Sadly, most of the stuff being churned out is pretty mediocre.

Generally speaking everything should be added and scenes created using the ISY Series Controller. Failure to do so will not allow the controller to know the true state of the device(s). Also there may be instances where the controller may crawl the Insteon network and cause unintended actions. There are however some instances where linking directly to the end device is needed or required. They are when the ISY does not formally support said hardware device like the latest Alert Module. Another instance is where you wish to run an isolated network like a separate controller say the HUB II because it offers you some random feature not seen on the ISY. Lastly, there may be instances where the controller is having issues linking the device(s) so a interim fix is to link them directly until root cause is determined.

My thoughts on the topic at hand is its always great to have options. The free market was built upon the principle of having options and I see all of these different platforms as an option for those either technically inclined or not. I know in past threads Michel replied back that he struggled with making the ISY Portal a subscription based service. Like me, he isn't a fan of subscription based services but made it so. My understanding is the portal will be a nice extension of the ISY and not reliant on it. Unfortunately at some point there will be features or services which are dependent on the portal where it literally makes the user dependent on it. So this is a slippery slope to be in moving forward . . . Speaking for myself only its very hard for me to accept paying anyone for something I own. But on the other hand I see great value in the portal because in a round about way it helps the company see steady revenue. The reality is its near impossible to keep making money over the long term simply on new buyers alone. Once you buy the controller and all of software modules - what other reoccurring income will UDI ever see? None . . . So, for me spending $49.00 USD every two years is a small return on investment which UDI has given me ten times over. Anyone who has been here long enough knows I have no problem throwing anyone under the bus. Much less expressing my thoughts about various topics that come up from time to time. Even though I wish UDI would take on a different approach on various features / services. Ultimately the company and its product is the best in class in almost every area from customer service, support, and product development. The UDI team has been working hard in the development of the Z-Wave platform and know at some point it will be the market leader in the same. Michel is passionate about his company, people, and the world as a whole.

As others mentioned there are several software options to complete the same. But, honestly using the switch I listed will offer you bullet proof response and operations. If and when the 3:00 AM Query completes you better get ready for more trouble shooting and hair loss. For me $17.XX is money well spent knowing its just going to work, forever . . .

I haven't read too many reviews of the battery only smoke / co units. But know many of the false alarms people get per year are normally user issues or placement issues. I don't know how many still use ion vs photo sensors but many times basic dusk build up along with those who smoke have caused many false nuisance trips. Couple this with people not running the exhaust fan long enough after a long steamy shower / bath. To those who insist upon letting water boil on the stove forever and having a smoke detector only mere feet from said appliance?!?! That is just a recipe for disaster along with the fact so many people are too lazy to do any of the basic checks per month / year. I've written about this problem probably more times than I care to recall - so when I read, hear, or see people die or lose everything they own. Simply because they were too cheap, lazy, to do a monthly fire check by pressing the *Test* button. Never mind changing out or measuring the batteries based on the change of DST. Its quite sad to know it could have been avoided . . .

That's correct - I use this hybrid method in my home right now and works just perfectly. For me the advantages of the *One Link* system is it allowed me to have battery only units in areas I wanted to monitor and not have to worry about running wires. It also enabled me to have a measure of fail over in case of a surge event that could take out the 120 VAC smoke alarms. Lastly, because they are all interconnected via the *One Link* system they extend the fire protection grid in my home which is directly linked to the security alarm panel which then relays the same information to the Central Station (CS). Having the Insteon Smoke Bridge is just the icing on the cake as it allows me to create emergency lighting scenes to ensure a well lit path for everyone in the home. Speaking for myself only the SB was one of the best hardware releases from Smartlabs.

What was the reason in not purchasing the hardwired 120 VAC *One Link* units from the on set? http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Hardwired-Interconnectable-OneLink-Backup-2PK/dp/B00UMO6HHE/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1462816059&sr=8-16&keywords=first+alert+onelink

Purchase this and install it - problem solved: http://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html

Page 13 of the full users manual: http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2334-2xx.pdf

First thing is to be using the most current ISY firmware release ensuring that both UI / Firmware match when you select Help -> About. Next, you should be aware the system will maintain a separation of the back lighting from on vs off. Also keep in mind sometimes changing the back lighting manually offers the best results because using the Admin Console sometimes offers a completely different user experience. Lastly, sometimes the device needs to be hard reset and restored to let the adjustment take hold. You could certainly do an air gap and see if that allows you to update the back lighting. If that fails to make any changes do a hard reset, restore, and try again. I've had to make changes manually to some older units because for what ever reason the ISY never made the correct changes through the UI.

Please keep in mind if you create a dedicated Gmail account for the 994 Series Controller. Using Googles Gmail may offer you many possibilities for sms / text. Don't fixate on using your cellular provider for sending alert messages . . .

In the interim you can just send a basic email and look into other 3rd party services or provides that allow the same email to be relayed (forwarded) and it will in turn translate the email into a sms / text message. I would suggest you Google for some of the services out there and see what might suite your needs. I personally don't use such a service but have read often of others doing the very same. Let us know how you make out as I am sure it will benefit someone else down the road.

Um, yes it would matter! LOL . . . Also keep in mind you may have to play with the timing from the I/O Linc. I know some folks had to use from 0.2, 0.5 to a full 1.0 seconds to make the system consistent and reliable. Please read the full manual as to the proper wiring outlined for this endeavor and keep us in the loop of the final outcome.

If you're confident the wiring is correct and the proper timing was selected. Then, sadly the next step is to use a dumb switch or solder on to a spare remote controler.

The ISY can send email to almost any email provider so long as the credentials, ports, and network attributes are correct. Some cellular companies also have a email to text service in case you wish the alert message to come in as a sms / text.

Yes at the GDO main board where the wall mounted wires inserted to. You have a 50/50 chance at this point that it will operate just fine and its FREE to check. If not then you can proceed to the next step of using a dumb switch or solder on to a remote switch.

Just out of curiosity but did you try to connect the I/O Linc in parallel at the GDO itself? [emoji53] This technique usually works out just fine 90% of the time and reduces the odds of interrupting the wall mounted smart key pad. [emoji5] ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

That's because the all mighty Brian H didn't leave his reply! Ha . . .

They may actually reply back and say the API documents are being worked on and release may be imminent. LOL . . .

I would try the update method first and see what happens should that fail move forward with the full download. Also, it goes with out saying you really need to complete the 4 tap beacon test to ensure your Insteon network is properly coupled / bridged. Lastly, the garage must have a few noise makers / signal suckers in the area so that really needs to be addressed. As all the coupling / bridging in the world will not supersede the need to identify and filter / remove those culprits. I know this has been a long journey for you and frustrations can make the whole HA experience anything but positive. But your task today is to at least confirm the 4 tap beacon test in various parts of the home. The full users manual will outline what to look for as different model years and devices blinked their LED differently. Next, remove all CFL / LED bulbs in that garage and leave that area empty. Unplug everything in that garage including the GDO to see (IF) communications are restored or remain the same. You will only add back one single item until you see a fault. Being methodical is the only way to succeed in this endeavor - take a deep breath - this is supposed to be fun! Worst case go for a walk and smoke a bowl . . .

Assuming you were handy enough wiring the switch to always on would not be very difficult at all. Its assumed the person would understand the stated battery run time would be heavily impacted though. Given a couple of companies have already made a dedicated battery boot for the Echo going that route may be better. I personally don't care for the design of the Tap vs the Echo but its cheaper! This time next year if they start to offer the entire line up globally - Amazon will have a massive impact on the Home Automation industry as a whole. If they ever drop the Echo back to a standard $99.00 price point it will seize probably the entire market place.

I believe using all mediums such as the above and Face Book, Twitter, etc would probably yield much quicker results. As much as I hate both of these mediums there is no question it works and news travels much faster using them. Absolutely shameful any company would need to be called out in a public forum and be shamed just to offer data which helps drive sales for themselves?!?! One would think having millions of dollars in revenue would translate to having resources to provide the needed data. Its been apparent to me and millions of others across the world many aspects of this company operates like a fledgling start up. A person first stating up can be forgiven if things fall through the cracks because they don't know better or have the resources to offer the same on a timely fashion. But in this case this isn't a single person or a company just starting off as Smarthome has been in business for more than 20 freaking years! They have tens of millions of dollars in annual revenue and there is no way they can't afford to hire the proper people to relay this kind of information. From watching this company from afar its apparent to me its a small group of people. Its either these people are tasked with so many duties finding the time to sit down and type out a API document is probably ten years from their pile of *To Do's*. I have to take pause if that is the case and if its not and there are lots of people to go around. Then the problem lies squarely on Joe Dadda for failing once again to follow best industry practices which tens of millions of company follow. I can guarantee you Smarthome would never pass a basic ISO audit given the last 20 years of performance and reviews offered by tens of thousands of product failures to incompetent design concepts.

Since you deleted the two devices I have to assume you never refreshed the Mobilinc Application. I would do a poll of the network in the app and see if the status is correct.

No worries so long as the information is given to UDI so others like you can finally make good use of the product that's all that matters at this point. What do you plan on doing with this device in term of use case?