Teken

As others mentioned there are several software options to complete the same. But, honestly using the switch I listed will offer you bullet proof response and operations. If and when the 3:00 AM Query completes you better get ready for more trouble shooting and hair loss. For me $17.XX is money well spent knowing its just going to work, forever . . .

I haven't read too many reviews of the battery only smoke / co units. But know many of the false alarms people get per year are normally user issues or placement issues. I don't know how many still use ion vs photo sensors but many times basic dusk build up along with those who smoke have caused many false nuisance trips. Couple this with people not running the exhaust fan long enough after a long steamy shower / bath. To those who insist upon letting water boil on the stove forever and having a smoke detector only mere feet from said appliance?!?! That is just a recipe for disaster along with the fact so many people are too lazy to do any of the basic checks per month / year. I've written about this problem probably more times than I care to recall - so when I read, hear, or see people die or lose everything they own. Simply because they were too cheap, lazy, to do a monthly fire check by pressing the *Test* button. Never mind changing out or measuring the batteries based on the change of DST. Its quite sad to know it could have been avoided . . .

That's correct - I use this hybrid method in my home right now and works just perfectly. For me the advantages of the *One Link* system is it allowed me to have battery only units in areas I wanted to monitor and not have to worry about running wires. It also enabled me to have a measure of fail over in case of a surge event that could take out the 120 VAC smoke alarms. Lastly, because they are all interconnected via the *One Link* system they extend the fire protection grid in my home which is directly linked to the security alarm panel which then relays the same information to the Central Station (CS). Having the Insteon Smoke Bridge is just the icing on the cake as it allows me to create emergency lighting scenes to ensure a well lit path for everyone in the home. Speaking for myself only the SB was one of the best hardware releases from Smartlabs.

What was the reason in not purchasing the hardwired 120 VAC *One Link* units from the on set? http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Hardwired-Interconnectable-OneLink-Backup-2PK/dp/B00UMO6HHE/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1462816059&sr=8-16&keywords=first+alert+onelink

Purchase this and install it - problem solved: http://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html

Page 13 of the full users manual: http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2334-2xx.pdf

First thing is to be using the most current ISY firmware release ensuring that both UI / Firmware match when you select Help -> About. Next, you should be aware the system will maintain a separation of the back lighting from on vs off. Also keep in mind sometimes changing the back lighting manually offers the best results because using the Admin Console sometimes offers a completely different user experience. Lastly, sometimes the device needs to be hard reset and restored to let the adjustment take hold. You could certainly do an air gap and see if that allows you to update the back lighting. If that fails to make any changes do a hard reset, restore, and try again. I've had to make changes manually to some older units because for what ever reason the ISY never made the correct changes through the UI.

Please keep in mind if you create a dedicated Gmail account for the 994 Series Controller. Using Googles Gmail may offer you many possibilities for sms / text. Don't fixate on using your cellular provider for sending alert messages . . .

In the interim you can just send a basic email and look into other 3rd party services or provides that allow the same email to be relayed (forwarded) and it will in turn translate the email into a sms / text message. I would suggest you Google for some of the services out there and see what might suite your needs. I personally don't use such a service but have read often of others doing the very same. Let us know how you make out as I am sure it will benefit someone else down the road.

Um, yes it would matter! LOL . . . Also keep in mind you may have to play with the timing from the I/O Linc. I know some folks had to use from 0.2, 0.5 to a full 1.0 seconds to make the system consistent and reliable. Please read the full manual as to the proper wiring outlined for this endeavor and keep us in the loop of the final outcome.

If you're confident the wiring is correct and the proper timing was selected. Then, sadly the next step is to use a dumb switch or solder on to a spare remote controler.

The ISY can send email to almost any email provider so long as the credentials, ports, and network attributes are correct. Some cellular companies also have a email to text service in case you wish the alert message to come in as a sms / text.

Yes at the GDO main board where the wall mounted wires inserted to. You have a 50/50 chance at this point that it will operate just fine and its FREE to check. If not then you can proceed to the next step of using a dumb switch or solder on to a remote switch.

Just out of curiosity but did you try to connect the I/O Linc in parallel at the GDO itself? [emoji53] This technique usually works out just fine 90% of the time and reduces the odds of interrupting the wall mounted smart key pad. [emoji5] ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

That's because the all mighty Brian H didn't leave his reply! Ha . . .

They may actually reply back and say the API documents are being worked on and release may be imminent. LOL . . .

I would try the update method first and see what happens should that fail move forward with the full download. Also, it goes with out saying you really need to complete the 4 tap beacon test to ensure your Insteon network is properly coupled / bridged. Lastly, the garage must have a few noise makers / signal suckers in the area so that really needs to be addressed. As all the coupling / bridging in the world will not supersede the need to identify and filter / remove those culprits. I know this has been a long journey for you and frustrations can make the whole HA experience anything but positive. But your task today is to at least confirm the 4 tap beacon test in various parts of the home. The full users manual will outline what to look for as different model years and devices blinked their LED differently. Next, remove all CFL / LED bulbs in that garage and leave that area empty. Unplug everything in that garage including the GDO to see (IF) communications are restored or remain the same. You will only add back one single item until you see a fault. Being methodical is the only way to succeed in this endeavor - take a deep breath - this is supposed to be fun! Worst case go for a walk and smoke a bowl . . .

Assuming you were handy enough wiring the switch to always on would not be very difficult at all. Its assumed the person would understand the stated battery run time would be heavily impacted though. Given a couple of companies have already made a dedicated battery boot for the Echo going that route may be better. I personally don't care for the design of the Tap vs the Echo but its cheaper! This time next year if they start to offer the entire line up globally - Amazon will have a massive impact on the Home Automation industry as a whole. If they ever drop the Echo back to a standard $99.00 price point it will seize probably the entire market place.

I believe using all mediums such as the above and Face Book, Twitter, etc would probably yield much quicker results. As much as I hate both of these mediums there is no question it works and news travels much faster using them. Absolutely shameful any company would need to be called out in a public forum and be shamed just to offer data which helps drive sales for themselves?!?! One would think having millions of dollars in revenue would translate to having resources to provide the needed data. Its been apparent to me and millions of others across the world many aspects of this company operates like a fledgling start up. A person first stating up can be forgiven if things fall through the cracks because they don't know better or have the resources to offer the same on a timely fashion. But in this case this isn't a single person or a company just starting off as Smarthome has been in business for more than 20 freaking years! They have tens of millions of dollars in annual revenue and there is no way they can't afford to hire the proper people to relay this kind of information. From watching this company from afar its apparent to me its a small group of people. Its either these people are tasked with so many duties finding the time to sit down and type out a API document is probably ten years from their pile of *To Do's*. I have to take pause if that is the case and if its not and there are lots of people to go around. Then the problem lies squarely on Joe Dadda for failing once again to follow best industry practices which tens of millions of company follow. I can guarantee you Smarthome would never pass a basic ISO audit given the last 20 years of performance and reviews offered by tens of thousands of product failures to incompetent design concepts.

Since you deleted the two devices I have to assume you never refreshed the Mobilinc Application. I would do a poll of the network in the app and see if the status is correct.

No worries so long as the information is given to UDI so others like you can finally make good use of the product that's all that matters at this point. What do you plan on doing with this device in term of use case?

Take a deep breath you got the first part taken care of which is getting the I/O Linc to enroll into the network. Your next step is to confirm that the door sensor no longer opens the GDO. The rest is secondary at this point . . .

I know you and the tech were only trying to share what they knew. But given the alert module has been out for more than 90 days I found this information quite funny! Pretty much - Yes! Given the very fact UDI is the only active vendor supporting Insteon on a large scale. I find it disheartening Smartlabs has dragged their feet for more than 90 days to offer the API to them. This is only second to the very fact not a soul knows where the whole UDI PLM chip deal is ever going to go through.

I suggest you bring the I/O Linc to the same outlet as the PLM or use an extension cord and try again. If doing both fails to add the device back either the hardware is defective or it requires a proper hard reset outlined in the full users manual. When you select Help -> About what does the UI / Firmware say your on? At this point it would be very helpful to launch the level 3 error logging and copy and paste what happens when you try to add the device so others can review the error log.

LOL . . .