Teken

In the interim you can just send a basic email and look into other 3rd party services or provides that allow the same email to be relayed (forwarded) and it will in turn translate the email into a sms / text message. I would suggest you Google for some of the services out there and see what might suite your needs. I personally don't use such a service but have read often of others doing the very same. Let us know how you make out as I am sure it will benefit someone else down the road.

Um, yes it would matter! LOL . . . Also keep in mind you may have to play with the timing from the I/O Linc. I know some folks had to use from 0.2, 0.5 to a full 1.0 seconds to make the system consistent and reliable. Please read the full manual as to the proper wiring outlined for this endeavor and keep us in the loop of the final outcome.

If you're confident the wiring is correct and the proper timing was selected. Then, sadly the next step is to use a dumb switch or solder on to a spare remote controler.

The ISY can send email to almost any email provider so long as the credentials, ports, and network attributes are correct. Some cellular companies also have a email to text service in case you wish the alert message to come in as a sms / text.

Yes at the GDO main board where the wall mounted wires inserted to. You have a 50/50 chance at this point that it will operate just fine and its FREE to check. If not then you can proceed to the next step of using a dumb switch or solder on to a remote switch.

Just out of curiosity but did you try to connect the I/O Linc in parallel at the GDO itself? [emoji53] This technique usually works out just fine 90% of the time and reduces the odds of interrupting the wall mounted smart key pad. [emoji5] ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

That's because the all mighty Brian H didn't leave his reply! Ha . . .

They may actually reply back and say the API documents are being worked on and release may be imminent. LOL . . .

I would try the update method first and see what happens should that fail move forward with the full download. Also, it goes with out saying you really need to complete the 4 tap beacon test to ensure your Insteon network is properly coupled / bridged. Lastly, the garage must have a few noise makers / signal suckers in the area so that really needs to be addressed. As all the coupling / bridging in the world will not supersede the need to identify and filter / remove those culprits. I know this has been a long journey for you and frustrations can make the whole HA experience anything but positive. But your task today is to at least confirm the 4 tap beacon test in various parts of the home. The full users manual will outline what to look for as different model years and devices blinked their LED differently. Next, remove all CFL / LED bulbs in that garage and leave that area empty. Unplug everything in that garage including the GDO to see (IF) communications are restored or remain the same. You will only add back one single item until you see a fault. Being methodical is the only way to succeed in this endeavor - take a deep breath - this is supposed to be fun! Worst case go for a walk and smoke a bowl . . .

Assuming you were handy enough wiring the switch to always on would not be very difficult at all. Its assumed the person would understand the stated battery run time would be heavily impacted though. Given a couple of companies have already made a dedicated battery boot for the Echo going that route may be better. I personally don't care for the design of the Tap vs the Echo but its cheaper! This time next year if they start to offer the entire line up globally - Amazon will have a massive impact on the Home Automation industry as a whole. If they ever drop the Echo back to a standard $99.00 price point it will seize probably the entire market place.

I believe using all mediums such as the above and Face Book, Twitter, etc would probably yield much quicker results. As much as I hate both of these mediums there is no question it works and news travels much faster using them. Absolutely shameful any company would need to be called out in a public forum and be shamed just to offer data which helps drive sales for themselves?!?! One would think having millions of dollars in revenue would translate to having resources to provide the needed data. Its been apparent to me and millions of others across the world many aspects of this company operates like a fledgling start up. A person first stating up can be forgiven if things fall through the cracks because they don't know better or have the resources to offer the same on a timely fashion. But in this case this isn't a single person or a company just starting off as Smarthome has been in business for more than 20 freaking years! They have tens of millions of dollars in annual revenue and there is no way they can't afford to hire the proper people to relay this kind of information. From watching this company from afar its apparent to me its a small group of people. Its either these people are tasked with so many duties finding the time to sit down and type out a API document is probably ten years from their pile of *To Do's*. I have to take pause if that is the case and if its not and there are lots of people to go around. Then the problem lies squarely on Joe Dadda for failing once again to follow best industry practices which tens of millions of company follow. I can guarantee you Smarthome would never pass a basic ISO audit given the last 20 years of performance and reviews offered by tens of thousands of product failures to incompetent design concepts.

Since you deleted the two devices I have to assume you never refreshed the Mobilinc Application. I would do a poll of the network in the app and see if the status is correct.

No worries so long as the information is given to UDI so others like you can finally make good use of the product that's all that matters at this point. What do you plan on doing with this device in term of use case?

Take a deep breath you got the first part taken care of which is getting the I/O Linc to enroll into the network. Your next step is to confirm that the door sensor no longer opens the GDO. The rest is secondary at this point . . .

I know you and the tech were only trying to share what they knew. But given the alert module has been out for more than 90 days I found this information quite funny! Pretty much - Yes! Given the very fact UDI is the only active vendor supporting Insteon on a large scale. I find it disheartening Smartlabs has dragged their feet for more than 90 days to offer the API to them. This is only second to the very fact not a soul knows where the whole UDI PLM chip deal is ever going to go through.

I suggest you bring the I/O Linc to the same outlet as the PLM or use an extension cord and try again. If doing both fails to add the device back either the hardware is defective or it requires a proper hard reset outlined in the full users manual. When you select Help -> About what does the UI / Firmware say your on? At this point it would be very helpful to launch the level 3 error logging and copy and paste what happens when you try to add the device so others can review the error log.

LOL . . .

Hello Dan, You can download the full users manual which clearly outlines what aspect of the API is accessible etc. I would highly suggest you create an account on the Brultech forum and pose any technical question you may have about the product. Ben / Paul are always very quick to answer any pre-sales questions along with offering excellent service after the sale. The eGauge is definitely geared toward a more commercial audience with limited function and views. In terms of cost per CT there isn't anything on the market that comes even close to the GEM.

Hello Chuck, I read you were having some DST issues before in another thread. Has that issue been resolved as of yet? Also it should be noted somewhere in the 4.4.X branch the UDI team released a DST fix because some of us were seeing a time drift also. In the worst case situation like mine I was seeing *Future Time* like the year was being pushed to 2090 etc. I can't honestly say if the DST fix UDI released in the code was the solution as they sent me a refurbished board and gather it could have been the battery which powers the real time clock.

That is a very new 2413S PLM - Can you offer a little more information about the PLM just for reference sake for others to follow. On the white sticker will be the production date and hardware revision number. Please also state what the ISY indicates as the firmware for this device. Have you plugged the I/O Linc into the same outlet as the other garage circuit that works to see if you can add it back? Again the easiest thing to do is take a really long extension cord and wire it to the same outlet as the PLM and try again. Worst case remove the wires from the device and bring it to the same room as the PLM and try again. Using the extension cord obviously saves you lots of time from rewiring the I/O Linc from the GDO. Since this thread has taken off into several directions lets try to focus on the task at hand. 1. Successfully add all the devices that were deleted and hard reset back to the controller. 2. After doing the above does the door sensor still control the GDO? Its assumed either the hard reset was not done properly or the PLM still has the links in the data base.

Based on all of the reviews and the specs I have read its exactly the same with better speakers & battery.

Easiest thing to do is go get a long extension cord and plug the I/O Linc to a outlet in the house and try again. There's obviously bad comm's or poor electrical coupling in that area of the garage.

My Super Hero for 2016 . . .

Out of course at this point I would unplug the 2413S PLM and wait 10-20 seconds. Reboot the 994 Series Controller next and wait for the controller to come back on line. At this point its just easier to do the following and know if there is something else amiss. 1. Delete the door sensor, hard reset it per the full users manual. Add it back to the ISY and do nothing else from there. 2. Hard reset the I/O Linc, add it back to the controller and report back.

But from a *Human* perspective the majority of people expect when a light (LED) is lit. This denotes something as being on / active where as the light (LED) being off indicates a off / closed state. There are many industries that have tried extremely hard in the *Human Ergonomics* arena like the automotive group. I can tell you from working in this field the industry is still completely lost. If a person has to think about something to make sense of it - that application or representation of such has failed. There are lots of industries and those who design, make, and work in these industries and 50% of them agree its a complete fail. Whereas the other 50% of the engineers simply make excuses for poorly thought out implementation. Bottom line, if you have to think about something - its failed in its objective.