Teken

I believe the how to section would be perfect! Also could you offer a little more detail and photos about positioning of the keys and how it was held down? Did it simply just sit there? Also was there any reason you purchased the open cage style laser vs the closed four corner style? ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be.

Marcin, First you're an inspiration for an alternative and professional looking KPL keys! Next, may I humbly ask you create a dedicated thread and link this one so others can follow your project. It will ensure the topic is on point and offers the most useful information for all. Please ensure you use the search terms so others can find it in the future like: Custom KPL, etc Thank You!

Pretty sure you have 64 other things in your home consuming more electricity than that 300-500 mW laser ever will. Ha . . .

It uses a laser so nothing to run out besides the money in your wallet to pay for the electricity.

I don't know if anyone has referenced this thread or others but it should be relayed to the Amazon Echo development team. I know even (IF) they were simply lurking they would glean so much information from active users who only wish to see their product grow. Doing so will not only speed up their development but also ensure their market lead and dominance in the voice command sector. So far, Amazon has shown many of us they are listening and wanting to develop a leading edge voice platform.

LOL, I have no words . . . For the record my Echo is not in an ideal location on my communications desk. As it sits in the corner and the other side of the wall is my refrigerator and when the compressor kicks in its like listening to a freaking bulldozer! Regardless, Alexa pretty much hears me 90% of the time even with the huge ambient noise . . . I believe with the addition of a few Dots it won't really matter when they are in the living room, basement, and in the master bedroom.

Accd, That's great to know but will set my expectations lower (IF) and when I can purchase a Dot. For me its setting proper expectations in those things I use. When the Echo arrived a few months back I wasn't really expecting the volume and sound to be anything too stellar. But given its price and size it was very decent for its intended back ground music.

I've read of several people doing exactly what you asked vs others made the ISY a primary instead of a secondary controller. The obvious power comes from the 994 Series Controllers conditional logic which very few systems offer. What does the alarm panel offer in terms of lighting control now? Also, does it support all Z-Wave devices from all the major vendors? I ask because reading some of the other forums it seems some of these companies restrict the Z-Wave hardware to only their specific brand. Which goes against the Z-Wave alliance guidelines . . .

I'm going to offer my feed back from a security and compliance stand point and you will have to decide what suites your lifestyle, and current risk(s). 1. Security Alarm System: Should always operate in a stand alone mode that does not allow none UL / cUL compliant devices to have command and control of the system. Since most users here are consumers and often put convenience over compliance this is up to you. 2. You can make either device a primary vs secondary and depends upon your use case and which hardware device offers the most features and options to suite your needs.

OK, OK, maybe a Ugo? [emoji23][emoji16]

Junky and others that have the Dot now plugged into a sound system. Some reviews indicated that the device outputs a slight noise from a hiss to random back ground hum. Can anyone who has one comment on this?

Oh yeah I'm the guy selling it - Here comes that new Lamborghini!

You bunch of nagative Nancies! [emoji38][emoji41][emoji4]

All I got to say is I love the enterprising soul who came out with the idea. Good on him for thinking of a way to make some money while offering something usable for those of us that have a Echo. I really can't fault the guy for the price given I am sure these are small runs and the reality is its a solid piece of metal and not some cheap aszz plastic that I am sure someone will come out with. I can't really hate to be honest . . .

Stu, That really does make sense the way you explained it. Perhaps I already succumbed to the fact I would always have to call out a specific room / appliance instead of being able to say turn on the lights in a specific room. I agree its more natural and human like to be (in) the room and simply say: Alexa turn on the light, fan, etc opposed to saying turn on the master bedroom light which gets pretty old quick. Also trying to teach others to do the very same is a little painful for those who don't know the syntax or expected use.

Could you offer a specific use case where your idea would be used? As I am just a little unclear on some of the pro's / con's with having multiple Echo, Dot, Tap in one home. Unless you mean to have the ability to control other remote sites? Like a office, second home, customer site etc?

Good catch that is one situation that causes lots of head scratching from time to time. Also, OP best practices is to hard reset the device first before you enroll the device to the network. Anytime I am doing a replacement of a device I always hard wire it to a spare extension cord. This lets me do all of the programming and testing at the bench and not have to worry about standing in some random place in the home. Once the device is hard reset I do the replace with and let the system do its job. Once the replace with is completed you will notice the *Test* unit will have disappeared from the device tree, this is normal. After that process is done I test the new unit in the comfort of my test bench and if all is well I install it to its final location. Ensure you properly secure all wires using linesmen pliers or similar. Do not simply use the wire nut (Marrette) to secure the copper wiring . . .

Add the new device using a different name like *Test*. Once the new device has been added simply go to the device tree on the left hand side. Select the old KPL that needs to be replaced and right mouse click and select *Replace With* the (Test) unit will be one of the hardware selections from the list. NOTE: The device must be the same kind - meaning it must be a relay for relay, dimmer to dimmer.

I would think this would be a excellent next step for Amazon but think it would kill off any reason to purchase their hardware. Unless the requirement was that you must have a Echo, Dot, Tap, to use said smartphone application. It only makes sense to be tide to the hardware platform to ensure long term success and revenue for continued development of said technology.

The one or the other has to do with the Mobilinc Connect service and not the smartphone application. Meaning you can't have more than one cloud based service operating. If you have the Mobilinc Connect Portal Service you will need to submit a service request to UDI to disable the service.

Try with a Static IP address or reserve the MAC address in the router and try again.

Is the 994 Series Controller using DHCP or a Static IP address? If using a static IP address change it to DHCP for now and reboot the system. When I say reboot I mean remove power from the controller and not via soft boot via the Admin Console. It has proven to me and many others the soft reboot doesn't always clear the system and start fresh.

Hello Smokegrub, Apologies if I was not clear enough in my replies. The Water Hero System will detect any water flow from the meter itself. Meaning if the little dial which spins around in the meter to indicate water flow is moving - the system will detect this flow of water in the home. Which translate to you the owner being alerted to such a condition . . . As far as I am aware there isn't a plug & play water monitoring device that can accurately measure minute amounts of water flow like the Water Hero System. Keeping in mind it doesn't use infrasonic, hall effect, or spinner paddles. It actually uses the certified dial in the water meter via magnetic induction measuring which is extremely accurate and reliable since there is no moving parts etc.

I'm a little taken aback that the ISY Portal would have any direct impact on the NIC on the controller. Its apparent to me the cloud portal service was allowed to impact the network attributes of the controller itself. This should never be the case . . . I try to limit the use of the phrase impossible when talking about certain things in life. But in this case its near impossible everyone had a off line condition and many of us found the actual controllers NIC also not being seen by the modem / router. On a related matter I have stated this problem several times over the years. Since 4.XX firmware the controller does not respect the soft reboot and many times requires a hard reboot where the power must be removed for the controller to come back on line in a good known state. Everyday I thank God I spent the little amount of money on a remote web power switch. I can't even imagine asking someone to come to my home and to pull the power from some random electronic device in my home! Just to bring it back to life . . .

Yesterday I received several emails indicating the 994 Series Controller was down and not accessible on the network infrastructure. Using the various network tools in the system confirmed the controller was not listed on the router or visible. Performed a remote hard reboot from across town and she came back up. I detailed this same issue in the 4.4.6 RC3 thread and sent in my error logs to Mitchel the same night when I got home. Not sure if this is related to my incident at all but wanted to put that out there. Upon logging into the ISY Portal it says it was online since Saturday March 26, 9:02:23 AM. So its apparent to me the cloud service was down the whole night up to now?