Teken

Almost anything is possible when speaking about Smartlabs these days. But, I do not for see them removing support for legacy products from the PLM. Its more likely you have a communication issue, poor coupling, or defective items.

Hello Harold, You've endured quite the journey so I will leave you with a quick thought. Normally if the KPL makes a noise it indicates improper wiring, incompatible load, or there is indeed a fault in the device. As painful as it might be seeing that you have done pretty much what can be done. May I humbly suggest you take one problem KPL out and wire it to a spare extension cord you can sacrifice and wire the device to it. This will allow you to bring that KPL to the PLM. Since the device is already having issues you can take a staggered approach which is hard reset the KPL. Once done use the restore device and see if the KPL operates as expected. If it doesn't delete the device from the ISY and add it back once its in the system recreate the scenes and report back if it operates as expected. NOTE: If doing all of the above using the extension method and hard resetting and adding back the KPL does not yield positive results it may very well be damaged. If under the 2 year warranty period engage Smarthome and they will get you squared away.

1. Are you sure you added the KPL correctly? Can you let us know how you added the device? 2. Can you offer a screen shot of the KPL in the device tree?

Did you *right click mouse* and select group?

You also can't enable two node support until such time as UDI / Smartlabs offers it via software.

It also doesn't matter right now because UDI and Smartlabs hasn't provided the support via software to enable this feature! I've only been asking for this support for over a year now . . .

As far as I am aware the client has been going strong for about 11 months now. I personally would not go to that distance but than again it wasn't my call at the time. I just so happen to be the grunt on site at the time so did what they asked. The only obvious visual I saw while on site was it took about 30-45 seconds longer to bring up the Admin Console. After the Admin Console was fully loaded everything operated just fine . . . I suspect if there were lots of programs running in the back ground perhaps some latency would be seen. Then again I didn't stick around to find out (IF) he did! Ha . . .

The (approx 75') distance is from the ISY to 2413S PLM . . . This in my mind exceeds what is the norm and practicality but the client had a need at that time. So the only recourse was to use the highest quality cabling and wire both from that distance. I don't believe this scenario would have ever come up if the IR requirement wasn't the pressing issue at the time. The client didn't want yet another box to relay the IR commands which of course would have required more cost and complexity to the final install. My feed back was simply to offer this has been done with the caveats listed above. With anything I am sure YMMV as my personal home install I saw issues at 40 feet. Then again I wasn't using CAT 7 but CAT 6 cable and it wasn't shield cable either. Since my mini reno has been completed its down to a more reasonable 15 feet using CAT 7 cable.

Technically speaking RS-232 communications should be run on the shortest wire length. Having said this I have run a network exceeding 75 feet with out issues. I would however like to quantify this install used CAT 7 shielded cable and not the cheap CAT5e cable. Never mind CCA cable that is all over the Internet like lice!

Hello Brian, I suspect you're correct it would be hard to believe they would take that much effort to reprogram the entire line. Then again they did it to the I/O Linc which UDI had to make add in the signature for that lone piece of hardware. I swear in the forums there was another device where a refurbished device would not add into the 994 Series Controller until UDI made changes to reflect this distinction. Lets see how this unfolds in the next few months . . .

During the last few months it has been seen that Smarthome is in the middle of clearing out the entire warehouse of customer returns. These devices have been identified as refurbished and the product in most cases are given a slight discount from the daily retail price. In the past many of these refurbished devices actually had firmware that called out they were indeed refurbed! Meaning, unless the device signature was known to UDI these devices would not be accepted when being enrolled. I know this question is almost comical to ask but I am going to ask anyways. Does UDI currently have the latest signatures and definitions (API) to support these Refurbished products? As in the past there was only a few items - But now the entire line is being pushed out enmass to the public and I am sure there will be quite a few people wondering why it won't enroll. If this isn't on the radar and wasn't apparent please engage your contacts to ensure the information is made available. http://www.smarthome.com/insteon/insteon-refurbs.html

Leon, Keep us all in the loop as I am sure your findings will help out many others who may encounter poor RF reception in the future.

Hello Leon, As far as I am aware the connection is secure and as you noted its linked to the ISY. Perhaps Michel can advise whether or not a standard repeater will help bridge the signal. I find the whole separate ZigBee profiles extremely stupid as it make things very complex to integrate. My suggestion is just use real world trial and error to guide you. Go buy the cheapest ZigBee repeater you can find that is local to you so you can return it if it doesn't work. Install it and see what happens as all the guessing you and I are doing won't let you know until you try. Keep us all in the loop as to what you see . . . NOTE: I would also try selecting different channels to see for sure. There is also a signal out put level in (dB) not sure if your unit allows this to be changed?

Hello Leon, My understanding is the ZigBee profile being used is the energy aspect. Meaning what ever repeater you intend to purchase and use must support this profile. As the Home Automation, Security, Energy profiles are distinct unlike X-10, Insteon, Z-Wave.

Some of the bulbs were marked made in the USA vs others were in Mexico. Others were not clear about place of origin with the very common made in XXX using global parts etc. That is very common and doesn't bother me in the least . . . Like I said way up top lets assume all of the bulbs were installed correctly per the maker. If they still fail then its apparent the hardware is not well designed and sub par components are present. I won't lie to anyone every incandescent bulb I ever removed are all nicely stored in a water proof container. One day I may need them to keep something warm or to just help debug a Insteon issue. Worse case its actually required because said bulb with some mythical rating of 25 years only lasted one. Its apparent to me price isn't always reflective of quality either never mind name brand(s). I am of the mindset that you just purchase what ever your local store has and try them out based on your own budget and criteria. If it works then good for you - if it lasts more than 5 years, even better! I am hard pressed to call out how many recent purchases I have in my home that have lasted more than 5 years. Everything I owned from the 70 - 90's are still rocking on. Things from the past were just built to last not necessarily designed to be energy efficient like my monster dual mono amps! LMAO . . . But then again that wasn't the expectation either . . .

If you find in the newer style dual band lamp linc a silver cylinder that has goo all over the place. Good luck finding out the part (maybe its in the FCC data base) number. Besides the capacitors on some of these products the next big hitter is the sliver crystal.

What is the energy consumption of this Cree 100 watt bulb? 18 / 25 watts? Also I had to chuckle when I read the fine print about the operational temperature of -25'C - 45+'C. I wonder how they would fair in -45'C with windchill of -55'C?

LOL, well played my friend . . .

Pretty sure that was the first suggestion to use a dedicated gmail account opposed to the default one, no?

Looking forward to taking some time to read the v1.0 e-docs and the future release where its all bundled together in one image.

Hello Jon, Much thanks for the insight and confirmation to the GWN being excluded. Glad you had a chance to express the thoughts of many regarding the Amazon Echo. I seriously can't understand in 2016 why companies insist upon saying *Only in the USA* like its the only country in the free world!

I don't understand how you would know how and where to send the gift card since it only asks 3 questions? Unless the quiz is for the *A Typical* American customer base?!?!?

Hello Jack, This may be a very simple issue please login to your Google account and check for all approved devices. If you know the device is the ISY-994 Series Controller obviously say yes its approved or take it out of the banned / denied list. Can you offer us a screen capture of your mail settings here? You can block out the actual email address so you're not going to get spammed by some random person which is not likely on this forum. Also, in the past I used in the FROM field the following name which shouldn't make a difference. But wanted to offer this insight in case you wanted to use this same method once you get your mail going. Mine was -> 994 Series Controller:whatever@gmail.com Doing the above allowed to know mail was coming from the 994 Series Controller and not from another appliance in the network.

Hello Jack, I would encourage you to sign up to Google, Microsoft, Yahoo, who ever for a dedicate email address for the 994 Series Controller. Doing so will ensure mail is sent and received which also removes the reliance on the UDI mail service. Which has been known to be down or have random send issues . . . Many of us use Gmail for the SMTP mail server give that a try and report back success / failure as this will help identify if you really do have a firewall issue. It will take you about five minutes to create a new mail account assuming the name you select isn't used! Ha . . . NOTE: It should be pointed out in the (FROM) field in the 994 this field must have the gmail account. Otherwise you will notice no mail being sent and there will be absolutely no sign it just dropped off.

Paul, Being proactive in my mind in this area is simply good practice. Given what this devices primary function is and that is life and safety. I don't lose any sleep spending a few extra dollars on high output lithium cells which offer much longer service life. I've resisted installing rechargeable AA cells forever in these units and just chalk it up as cost of doing business.