Teken

Technically speaking RS-232 communications should be run on the shortest wire length. Having said this I have run a network exceeding 75 feet with out issues. I would however like to quantify this install used CAT 7 shielded cable and not the cheap CAT5e cable. Never mind CCA cable that is all over the Internet like lice!

Hello Brian, I suspect you're correct it would be hard to believe they would take that much effort to reprogram the entire line. Then again they did it to the I/O Linc which UDI had to make add in the signature for that lone piece of hardware. I swear in the forums there was another device where a refurbished device would not add into the 994 Series Controller until UDI made changes to reflect this distinction. Lets see how this unfolds in the next few months . . .

During the last few months it has been seen that Smarthome is in the middle of clearing out the entire warehouse of customer returns. These devices have been identified as refurbished and the product in most cases are given a slight discount from the daily retail price. In the past many of these refurbished devices actually had firmware that called out they were indeed refurbed! Meaning, unless the device signature was known to UDI these devices would not be accepted when being enrolled. I know this question is almost comical to ask but I am going to ask anyways. Does UDI currently have the latest signatures and definitions (API) to support these Refurbished products? As in the past there was only a few items - But now the entire line is being pushed out enmass to the public and I am sure there will be quite a few people wondering why it won't enroll. If this isn't on the radar and wasn't apparent please engage your contacts to ensure the information is made available. http://www.smarthome.com/insteon/insteon-refurbs.html

Leon, Keep us all in the loop as I am sure your findings will help out many others who may encounter poor RF reception in the future.

Hello Leon, As far as I am aware the connection is secure and as you noted its linked to the ISY. Perhaps Michel can advise whether or not a standard repeater will help bridge the signal. I find the whole separate ZigBee profiles extremely stupid as it make things very complex to integrate. My suggestion is just use real world trial and error to guide you. Go buy the cheapest ZigBee repeater you can find that is local to you so you can return it if it doesn't work. Install it and see what happens as all the guessing you and I are doing won't let you know until you try. Keep us all in the loop as to what you see . . . NOTE: I would also try selecting different channels to see for sure. There is also a signal out put level in (dB) not sure if your unit allows this to be changed?

Hello Leon, My understanding is the ZigBee profile being used is the energy aspect. Meaning what ever repeater you intend to purchase and use must support this profile. As the Home Automation, Security, Energy profiles are distinct unlike X-10, Insteon, Z-Wave.

Some of the bulbs were marked made in the USA vs others were in Mexico. Others were not clear about place of origin with the very common made in XXX using global parts etc. That is very common and doesn't bother me in the least . . . Like I said way up top lets assume all of the bulbs were installed correctly per the maker. If they still fail then its apparent the hardware is not well designed and sub par components are present. I won't lie to anyone every incandescent bulb I ever removed are all nicely stored in a water proof container. One day I may need them to keep something warm or to just help debug a Insteon issue. Worse case its actually required because said bulb with some mythical rating of 25 years only lasted one. Its apparent to me price isn't always reflective of quality either never mind name brand(s). I am of the mindset that you just purchase what ever your local store has and try them out based on your own budget and criteria. If it works then good for you - if it lasts more than 5 years, even better! I am hard pressed to call out how many recent purchases I have in my home that have lasted more than 5 years. Everything I owned from the 70 - 90's are still rocking on. Things from the past were just built to last not necessarily designed to be energy efficient like my monster dual mono amps! LMAO . . . But then again that wasn't the expectation either . . .

If you find in the newer style dual band lamp linc a silver cylinder that has goo all over the place. Good luck finding out the part (maybe its in the FCC data base) number. Besides the capacitors on some of these products the next big hitter is the sliver crystal.

What is the energy consumption of this Cree 100 watt bulb? 18 / 25 watts? Also I had to chuckle when I read the fine print about the operational temperature of -25'C - 45+'C. I wonder how they would fair in -45'C with windchill of -55'C?

LOL, well played my friend . . .

Pretty sure that was the first suggestion to use a dedicated gmail account opposed to the default one, no?

Looking forward to taking some time to read the v1.0 e-docs and the future release where its all bundled together in one image.

Hello Jon, Much thanks for the insight and confirmation to the GWN being excluded. Glad you had a chance to express the thoughts of many regarding the Amazon Echo. I seriously can't understand in 2016 why companies insist upon saying *Only in the USA* like its the only country in the free world!

I don't understand how you would know how and where to send the gift card since it only asks 3 questions? Unless the quiz is for the *A Typical* American customer base?!?!?

Hello Jack, This may be a very simple issue please login to your Google account and check for all approved devices. If you know the device is the ISY-994 Series Controller obviously say yes its approved or take it out of the banned / denied list. Can you offer us a screen capture of your mail settings here? You can block out the actual email address so you're not going to get spammed by some random person which is not likely on this forum. Also, in the past I used in the FROM field the following name which shouldn't make a difference. But wanted to offer this insight in case you wanted to use this same method once you get your mail going. Mine was -> 994 Series Controller:whatever@gmail.com Doing the above allowed to know mail was coming from the 994 Series Controller and not from another appliance in the network.

Hello Jack, I would encourage you to sign up to Google, Microsoft, Yahoo, who ever for a dedicate email address for the 994 Series Controller. Doing so will ensure mail is sent and received which also removes the reliance on the UDI mail service. Which has been known to be down or have random send issues . . . Many of us use Gmail for the SMTP mail server give that a try and report back success / failure as this will help identify if you really do have a firewall issue. It will take you about five minutes to create a new mail account assuming the name you select isn't used! Ha . . . NOTE: It should be pointed out in the (FROM) field in the 994 this field must have the gmail account. Otherwise you will notice no mail being sent and there will be absolutely no sign it just dropped off.

Paul, Being proactive in my mind in this area is simply good practice. Given what this devices primary function is and that is life and safety. I don't lose any sleep spending a few extra dollars on high output lithium cells which offer much longer service life. I've resisted installing rechargeable AA cells forever in these units and just chalk it up as cost of doing business.

Now the real question is will you see a low battery warning from a smoke detector NOT linked as a primary device to the SB? Again, this is what I have seen and goes against what others are saying. [emoji53] ========================= To bestow knowledge is power - But only if it promotes positive results in others. The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Hello Paul, Not sure why I see a different behavior then what you stated above? I understood what you stated above as being correct but during the course of many years. I have received many low battery indicators from the Smoke Bridge and none of them were from the primary linked One Link smoke alarm. It should be noted my primary unit is integrated to a hard wired one link detector(s). All of the remaining 12 units are the battery only smoke / co units. I am curious what type of sensors you have and how its linked and perhaps this might explain the difference?

LOL you guys . . .

Yup I believe Paul is on the ball try text instead and it will align perfectly.

There really isn't much difference in terms of how the device operates besides one supplies power from the PLM to the ISY. Where as the 2413S PLM does not power the ISY and requires a external power supply. You have several choices either try to replace the capacitors in the 2412S PLM assuming its not fried. Or replace it with a 2413S PLM from Smarthome in case you're not aware none of these PLM's have a service life longer than five years. Most die with in the 2-3 usage interval which is well known to tens of thousands of people around the world. Since you purchased this device used its not really a shock its failed.

Hello Ed, Can you provide a screen capture of the custom e-mail / sms in the Admin Console so we can see the current formatting?

Hello Ed, All you need to do is type in the phrase and then select enter. The same way you just did it on this forum post obviously you need to ensure the blinking bar is where you expect it to be when you select enter. Clear as mud?

Thanks for letting us know the final outcome and glad it was covered by the 2 year warranty.