JSchumann

FPS, So I can have 2 PLM's, one to ISY and one to computer and they can control the same devices? I guess that would get tricky writing programs. BTW, my ToggleLinc was also bad. Not sure about the Phase Coupler yet. Assuming the generator took them out. Thanks, John

FPS, I started the program, says no computer interface found. So I select manual to pick a PLM. I select 2413S and it says not found. Is it expecting the PLM to be connected to the computer? If so, how would I use the ISY? There is a drop down to select com port, but only com 8 is listed. Thanks, John

Thanks FPS, swapped and working. I wish there were failure LED or notifications on all devices to make troubleshooting easier. On the 2413S PLM I have V1.B. One is 1322 other is 1325. Are there newer models? I see a 2413SH (HouseLinc) I can replace the Caps on the failed one and swap out again to see if it fixes it. Can I use the 2413S PLM to run houselinc and keep the ISY? Thanks for all the help, John

So it turns out my PLM must be bad. I have a spare. Point me to instructions on how to swap out. Thanks, John

stusviews - Mine is the wired in Phase Coupler., John

Stusviews, That is my point there is no set button or LED on the SignaLinc. Also why would you have two SignaLinc's? Do you mean SwitchLinc's? Also, they would have to be on different phases for this test to work? How to verify that before you start? Regards, John

Brian, Will give it a try and post results. Thanks, John

Hi Paul. It drives an CFL light and there is a wireless phone next to it, but the darn thing has worked fine since installation over the last 7 years. John

UPDATE problem was PLM 3/14/17 How do you know if your SignaLinc phase coupler is bad? It has no lights/indicator and doesn't show up in ISY. I have one device (ToggleLinc) that keep dropping out. If I move the ToggleLinc to another location it picks up. Reinstall in original location and it works a week or so and quits. I cannot believe it is the only device on the 'other' phase and the dual band isn't working. I also tried replacing the ToggleLinc, same results. ToggleLinc is only about 35 feet (and up one level) from the PLM. Thanks, John

Worked on mine, now all that is blank is clear......

How do I add the self signed cert?

When I try to use the IP address listed under: Internet access, I get this message: Your connection is not private. Attackers might be trying to steal your information. NET::Err_Cert_authority_invalid This concerning - what do I have set up wrong? I went to load a certificate, but dialog box opens asking where to load it from??? Port 443 is forwarded in router and Mobilinc works OK Thanks, John

What exactly does the portal give you?

Brian, I looked, no luck. I did take apart a spare I had and it has two holes labeled R/Vio.....red violet? Unfortunately I don't see 2 reds or I would hook up and ring out......Can't find a good schematic for the thing. R8184G1286.

Larry, I actually have a temp detector on the outlet of the furnace on the water pipe. The reset button idea was for faster notification there is a problem. I had some pipes freeze last year because the furnace tripped and went unnoticed for a while (was at work) when the outside temp was negative 5 for about a week.

Thanks Brian, after more investigation, Honeywell makes a model with isolated alarm leads.....Guess I will be dropping $100 to get one......Model R8184G 4066 (15 second version)

Oil burner has a red reset button that shuts down burner if there is an issue. I want a notification if the reset button popped (is open). I suspect the button is basically open / close 120v.......how could I connect to this to receive an alert? Regards, John

Thanks all for the input. I found these which will do the trick and inexpensive ($10): http://www.senasys.com/shop/product/2570f108/ Regards, John

I installed a radio shack relay http://www.radioshack.com/125v-ac-10a-dpdt-relay/2750044.html with mounting base http://www.radioshack.com/socket-for-10-amp-plug-in-relay/2750220.html on the box and wired the coil to the alarm light. Use the contacts as A or C and connected to ELKM1G alarm panel and use ISY to monitor. If no ELK you can use http://www.smarthome.com/i-o-linc-insteon-2450-low-voltage-contact-closure-interface-1-in-1-out.html to connect the output of the relay. I didn't use Synchro Link because if it fails you have no local or remote alarm.

I don't see the sale price...

Stusviews, That looks like it would do the trick, great suggestion! I was also looking at elk-m1ztsr

I had a problem with my oil burner last year where the igniter died so the furnace wouldn't start. Wife didn't notice problem and one of my loops froze befor I could fix the igniter. What product could I use to monitor copper pipe temperature and set an alarm if it goes below 140 degrees (I think the furnace is set to keep the water temp 160 to 180). Any help appreciated. Thanks, John

I have the Elk module, will go poke around, Thanks

I want to get a text or e-mail when my ELK keypad temp goes below a set amount. Is this possible? Thanks,

Thanks....I can probably use the I/O link and connect directly to ELK M1, when relay drops out NO contacts will close.....