lilyoyo1

When you go to help>about, what does it say your firmware AND UI are?

No. It was removed

There is no right or wrong way to program the isy to control your gear. The best way to program is based on what suits you best. There are those on here who use programs mainly while others such as myself use mostly scenes and allow the programs to control the scenes Ive created. The best way to figure out what suits you best is to experiment with a few things and see what comes about. Everything you did with x10 you can do with insteon (and much more). It all comes down to how you design your system. Before starting, plan out what you are trying to accomplish and what matters most to you. That is what will determine the path for you to take. If you want to control stuff with remotes and rely less on automation (and the isy) then scenes will be your best bet overall. If you just want the ISY to do everything for you and work towards true automation, then programs will become much more important. I use a high combination of both. I set my scenes first. This way I know everything that I want to do will work outside of the ISY. My 2nd reason is uniformity. I like everything being in sync which you do not get with programs. Its hard to answer exactly on how to do something that has different variables to them. The best method is determined by exactly what you want to happen, the devices you have and expertise as some of the best methods are more complex. The way I set my away program utilizes both scenes and programs. When I hit my away button, it starts a program that turns off each room 1 at a time. I could do it a different way (such as a separate scene) but since I already have those set up, I simply use those. Once it gets dark enough in the house (where we want more light) our lights will automatically turn on (depending on different conditions) When we are not home, they turn on at a lower level for the dog in certain areas. If we hit our away button after sunset, the lights that are supposed to come on in our absence will automatically turn on at that time while everything else turns off. There are other programs, systems, and devices in place that allow me to accomplish what I am doing. This is why I said the best method is determined by other variables. An open question like yours can elicit 20 different responses and styles because of what other people have or do which can make things even more confusing for someone not yet versed in how to set up their system.

The 2474 has been around since 2011 as far as I know. Its.not designed to work with LEDs however

You'll need to create variables to create a timer function. I think you're making this much more complicated than it has to be as well as mostly likely going overboard with the fan or not enough. It's your fan's cfm rating and room size that should determine how long the fan stays on vs the light itself being on. The fan is on and moving air while your in there. Depending on how much air it moves, should determine the length of time it stays on afterwards. What I'm saying is that being in the bathroom for 5 minutes or 55 minutes is irrelevant once you exit. It's moving air while you're in there. Whatever is left once you leave will continue to be moved. Due to the room size, if your fan needs 10 minutes, running it an extra 45 minutes is a waste. Same thing with being in there for 5 minutes. Running it for an extra 5 when it needs 10 leaves you short. This is a simplistic view of things but I'm using to help you understand what I'm getting at.

Reboot your isy and restore them

I use both insteon and zwave. Insteon for lights and zwave for sensors. Zwave is far from being close to insteon for lighting while sensors is Insteon's weakness. I use zwave outlets for repeaters (have insteon outlets as well). I'm not going to get into the nitty gritty details of the insteon vs zwave argument as this question has been posted many times on the zwave subforum. @asbrilanswered the questions you had but I will add a few things. Zwave is still in its infancy with the isy compared to insteon so there was/will be more work needed for it than insteon which they've been doing for over a decade. With zwave being the confusing mess that it is, more work will always be needed than for insteon. There's no set amount of devices for a given size home. I've done 1500sq ft condos where I've needed more devices than 2500 sq foot 2 story homes. I automatically assume the worse for various reasons and buy more than what I need. Most zwave issues can be directly attributed to lack of devices so don't be cheap. This goes for building your network and in the devices you buy. Those cheap devices save you money today but will cost you more long term. If you want the equivalent to insteon or better it will cost you. If your looking at going into zwave as something cheap, don't bother. Save yourself the frustration, hair, and money. If you're willing to invest in it properly then it can be extremely rewarding (except for the lighting experience). I've attached a link to a tips and tricks write up I did not to long ago to help get you started

Did you clear your Java cache

At this point you have to start with a fresh slate anyway so I would factory reset the zwave dongle. If all of your devices are zwave plus, start with the closest device to the isy and start re-adding them in. If not, you may need to bring them closer to the isy

No. Scenes resides in devices which respond much faster than programs can so there no way to override it. There will be a delay with a program but wouldn't be too much of one. I'd try it and see how bad it is. You may be able to live with it.

If the door is left open it would work but he wants the light to stay on once closed

Unless you plan on using zwave, the standard ISY isy994 with plm would suffice. While your old PLM can work, I would upgrade your plm to the newest version (2413s)

That would work if he were just talking about programs. However, links reside in devices. Going back and forth between old and new updates would cause more problems than what he has now

No one was saying you're being a moron. You're attacking those who actually attempted to help you. No one knows who you are, what you know and don't know. Instead of simply saying no and moving on, they took the time to explain how things are set up on here to help you understand (included adding links). Instead of being grateful you attack them.

That's not what I'm saying. I don't know because I don't use mobilinc or their portal. I've just seen many other posters in the past posting about 1 portal (and are adamant about it) then it turns out they were using the opposite of what they thought. I'm assuming you did select the portal in the approval tab as well

I'm not clear on the other motor as well. What kind of fan is it? Make/model

Is the red wire on the 2487s capped off? As mentioned in my previous reply; you CAN dim the fanlinc from the 2487s.

Did you tell them you wanted a refund or contact PayPal? Your experience is far from the norm in regards to how UDI has operated in the past with others (even going so far to remotely log-on to help people). There are also many who has mixed up portals thinking they paid for 1nwhen it was the other so it is something to look into

You can do this via a scene however it will not be optimal. Add the switch and closet in a scene with the switch as a controller and closet as a responder. Then set the closet to be off. Anytime the room is turned off the closet will turn off too. You'll be able to turn the room on without turning on the closet. The downside to this way is that a double tap will turn on the closet light. Also if the light in the closet is on (someone in there) without the room light being on, it will turn off on them should the room light be turned on

It sounds like you didnt configure the scene controller. One thing why your lights are not turning on in 4.5 seconds may be the bulbs themselves. If you are using LEDs this may be the culprit. LEDs generally have a harder time ramping up vs ramping down.

What's your firmware and UI?

It sounds like you've connected the 2487 to the fanlinc directly which is the incorrect way to wire it when used in connection with the fanlinc. Hart2hart's explanation is what you need to do in order to accomplish what you're trying to do. Once re-wired, you'll be able to link the light to the buttons for control and control the speeds separately. You'll also be able to dim the fanlinc from the big buttons as well.

Their focus is on what pays the bills. Every business is (even much larger corporations). This why you see new Samsung phones getting bug fixes when they first come out while bugs (such as the gps one) are still waiting for a fix 4 months later. Its not that the isy is nothing to them. Automation means alot to them which is why there is progress (especially from what Michel just mentioned about a developer). If a person has a job that will pay 5k but other jobs come along that will pay 30k. Which one would anyone take? Its not that the 5k job doesnt matter, just the higher paying jobs has the most influence. In fact, this diversity is what helps them help us. The additional income allows them the ability to expand the isy and do much more than they probably would be capable of....including keeping the isy (and other accessories) at a low price point.

I'm not sure what you're asking. If your system has issues now and you restore a backup after factory resetting and cleaning it, you're just putting the same bad stuff back into your devices. If you want to start over, commit to that and forget your old setup. When I initially set up an Isy, I will add my devices, name them, and and them to the rooms. Once done I create a back up. I save this as my clean slate so that if I ever need to start over, I can save alot of time on the initial portion. You can make a copies of the programs that you want to keep as well as scenes you want to recreate. Then factory reset your devices and isy

Since the official release shows up in the isy, I'm assuming users will still have to go through the migration process. If this is so, it might be good to have a warning or link to the forum about the process pop up prior to updating so that non forum users know what they will need to do once they update to avoid any surprises.