lilyoyo1

Why separate scenes when they do the same exact thing based on the same conditions?

One thing I would start with us adding all of those devices to a single scene and controlling the scene itself. It's a more efficient user of resources and you don't have to worry about commands being missed. I would also change the 0 seconds to 2 seconds to ensure good communication

I think the fact that you're using a single hub for 2 setups is the problem. You could try renaming to totally different things to see if that helps I would also look for a pattern to see what is going on. My suspicion is she is looking at the first or last "scene" that was used and responds accordingly since the beginning structure is the same

After a second look I realize you're using status. Change that to control and it should work

You need to activate the scene

You need to go to an Alexa forum

No. However if all of your devices are part of the isy, a simple program would suffice in place of a Google routine

I think we're all in that boat

We rarely use voice control. That's one thing mine hates. Everytime we do use it, I make notes and look for ways to automate what happened. I'm trying to make my house responsive vs reactive

Mine felt the same way until she first experienced it. Now she hates staying anywhere because of how things are at home

It's not. It could be added by simply telling Google I'm home and then running the corresponding programs. Instead of Google routines, I use isy programs. It accomplishes the same things. Just more efficiently. Motion sensors can work. The downside is that they don't know who entered. By using your lock vs sensors as a trigger, your setup becomes personalised which is more automated than having to tell the system you're home

All that depends on what you're trying to accomplish. In all rooms outside of the theater, I use Harmony so it's that node server. I have Sonos ones in all the rooms as well so the Sonos nodeserver is in play as well. With you using Chromecast you would just use your same setup as now with av remote. My setup starts at my locks. Since we have separate codes, mine does what I want and my wife's does what she wants with hers depending on situation If you let me know what you want to do, I can give you better information to make it happen

Why not have the isy do that itself? Using Ifttt would make it even slower than it is now. You can use Nodeservers (requires 5.0 newest firmware) and isy programs. Currently, when I come home (assuming house is empty), the lights that I want will turn on as well as the tv. Depending on time, if it's late, the bedroom TV will turn on instead of the family room TV. The path to the bedroom will light up so I'm not walking in the dark and turn itself off. Had I wanted to, this could've easily been music instead of TV's

What's wrong with black? ?

If you're using the nodeserver then you would use the WiFi version. If using zwave then you wouldn't need the nodeserver. Zwave distance varies. My general rule is a repeater every 30 feet open air. 10 feet for every wall between it and the isy. I generally will use at least one repeater that supports beaming rather than the isy directly talking to a device.

If you want to use each button as a toggle, I would use variables to track what was done and turn things on/off that way. With that said, as long as it works then you're good.

That's simply over kill especially if one has a large network. The hour it takes to fix problem programs (for most people) is waaay less than the time it would take to rebuild a whole system

I'm referring to your test device as well. The reason I stated what I said is that you were testing in a location that is different than your original lock. If you did not do a network heal with the lock in that location, the ISY may have trouble talking to it. Also, If your repeaters in that particular area does not support beaming you would encounter problems as well. The reason I bring these things up is that you earlier stated that you would move the lock closer to the ISY and then do your heal which is incorrect. Since your devices are over 7 years old, there is a good chance that the repeaters in that particular area may not be capable of beaming as many early generation zwave devices did not have that.

Most likely both are trying to send and receive messages from linked devices causing a collision somewhere so a responders message isn't getting back to them

Having repeaters is good. Having the right type is Paramount. Your repeaters must be capable of beaming. If they aren't then that can change things

Putting it near the isy and healing your network is the wrong move. It needs to be located at it's final location so that the path of set properly. If it's by the isy when you heal then move it, the isy will assume it's nearby and try to talk to it.

Is it in the same location as your other lock? Different locations may yield different results due to your zwave network. Also, make sure you aren't locking/unlocking too quickly as this can affect results as well

To me, global cache is best if you want completely local without having to worry about someone deciding to push an update that breaks something or bricks your device. Because Harmony is designed to be a full service remote, it has multiple uses besides controlling ir stuff. For example, I have a couple of hubs that I use with my Sonos (his & hers if you will). While I use@simplextechvery fine Sonos nodeserver for individual players, I use the Harmony for my groups (was up and running before his nodeserver). Because we only use Harmony remotes in all bedrooms, the status of stuff generally stays in sync (rarely an issue). This helps with the biased lights behind the TV's as well as all off, good night, and other scenes.

Earlier I had told him he's better off separating the alarm from the other programs to have more control over the system. This was based off that advice

Even if it's already disarmed, another disarm command won't hurt anything so the status is irrelevant. You could use variables to check the status of the lights that turn on when someone walks in. If they are off, then they would turn on.