lilyoyo1

I think the developer assumes someone who is using HUE already knows how hue works and has already set it up prior to trying to use the ISY to control it. Personally, I use Network resources to control my lights as its quicker and easier than what you have to go through with the Node server (for me). I prefer this method because once the work is done, I dont have to go into the ISY to make changes. I can simply update the scene in the app with whatever changes I want to make. The only thing I miss is being able to dim devices from my switches (which I dont do anyway). The flexibility the ISY gives to controlling disparate devices also makes building a strong foundation paramount (and time consuming). The Node server currently does not support dynamic scenes as its based on the older API. Until the new api is completed by hue (which allows for more dynamic scenes), I do not see a developer spending the time updating to it only for hue to make changes that break things. If you actually choose your created hue app scenes, you will avoid the popcorn effect. The ISY is not a zigbee controller so it cannot create scenes within the hue app which is why you get the popcorn effect. For dimming purposes, the ISY uses standard dimming levels (1-255 I believe. Could be wrong about the exact numbers) for dimming. There can be variances with different devices due to how each protocol/mfg. handles their own dimming. Unfortunately, some concessions had to be made for uniformity purposes so there could be some things off. The fact that the ISY has to talk to the hue bridge, then the bridge has to talk to the devices will create a delay with the dimming commands. As stated earlier, if you want to avoid the popcorn effect, you'll need to control your created hue scene. The good and bad thing is that the Node server is free. You get what you pay for which means there will be some concessions (though they'd exist even if you did have to pay). Hopefully, the next Node server will answer some of your shortcomings when hue completes the api

Any that are available would be in the full owners manual for the device. You can generally find this on the mfg. website. If they don't have one, then there probably isn't any extra parameters

Never even heard of it. From my experience, secondary controllers are flakey. I would ensure both controllers are within range of one another since it won't work if they aren't. After that, you'll have to follow their instructions on

The best thing to do is buy a bulb you want to use and test it with a dimmer. I've found that bulb compatibility can change even within the same mfg. lineup. I've purchased bulbs that worked perfectly and had buzzing with later purchases. Ditto for those that didn't work in the past. If you find one that you like and it works, i recommend buying a few extra. This way, if you need to replace one down the road, you'll know it'll still be compatible and the light it puts out will be the same as your existing (yes, this changes too). This isn't unique to insteon but all dimmers/bulbs out there.

Did you recently upgrade to 5.0.16? I'd say make sure you've cleared your Java cache and that the UI matches your firmware. You can also make sure the board is seated properly. Outside of that, the board could be going bad.

I've never had a need to try it so i can't answer that. I know I've updated my stick without ilosimg devices. The key is stored in the stick do i doubt it

I'd take their advice and try it. Yes, it's a lot of work but that'll be the only way to get to the bottom of things and solve your issues.

Yes to both. Follow the instructions on the firmware upgrade page found on under the current release section

I know ge has an open API. Does Frigidaire?

It's faster direct but limited to 5 devices within range (has to be direct device to device communication). Unlike insteon, you wouldn't be able to use direct association if a repeater is required to be in communication with another device. These groupings are good for on/off control of like devices.

I'd assume associations work properly with eisy but with the limitations of it, you'd probably be better off with the ISy doing the routing unless speed is of the essence such as using a sensor to turn in a light.

Where does it say that? Insteon scenes reside in each device regardless of device type...ie: any insteon device can control any other insteon device regardless of what it is. Just had to be in range of the signal With zwave you have 3 ways to control other devices. 1) controller is the middleman for scenes (most common) 2) direct association: device to device communication. Limited to 5 other devices. Must be in direct range of the controlling device and all devices must support that association and the controlling device must be scene capable. (2nd most common) 3)assigned association. Same thing applies except you are able to talk to devices not in direct communication with the controlling device. With that said, the controlling device must support this capability as it sets its own path separate from the controller. (Least common). In addition, instruction devices can all have different ramp rates and levels. Not so much with zwave. Where is it that insteon is similar to this?

Zwave doesn't handle scenes the way insteon does so if you're used to insteon you'll be sorely disappointed. Theirs is a convoluted mess which the Isy doesn't handle well but from what I'm hearing has been redone to work better with the new board (still a mess though). Depending on your issues, the new way still may not fix it due to how different zwave devices work.

Were they wireless devices or controlled by wireless devices

You may be better served by contacting universal devices directly on their website. They would know about their shipping times better than forum members

Regardless, it's still a huge fire risk. Outdoor outlets are not as controlled the way indoor outlets can be. Even indoors, it's still a huge risk with an embedded dimmable device where no one would know its there in addition to no safety controls in place for accidently use. There are a multitude of posts on here where people have used dimmers with incompatible loads and had close calls with fires. It's the ops house so he has to make that determination whether it's worth it or not but due to location and situation, it does set him up to lose his home to a fire

Since no one has migrated with zwave yet, I think it would be hard for anyone to answer your question with any certainty in regards to the cost of things. I would say that the more times you migrate, the greater the chance of something going wrong. If you're planning on getting eisy- wait for it and then migrate. If you're ok with sticking with polisy; get the matter board and migrate to that. While Michel has stated September being the release month, I'd assume December as a time frame due to delays and demand (no guarantee they wouldn't sell out quickly).

Yes, you can enclose it. However, the dimmer module isn't as hardy as the outdoor module. Depending on where the op lives, humidity and temp will make it a short lived install. Op also didn't have zwave and stated he has no desire to use it. For the op- I'd recommend against using any embedded dimming device in an outdoor outlet. I say this because an embedded device will make both outlets dimmable. Even still, with it being outdoors, it's too easy for someone to plug something in thats incompatible. There have been enough confirmed reports of people having fires with insteon dimmer devices and while controlling incompatible devices that the risk isn't worth it. At the end of the day, it is your house so you have to weigh the pros and cons of this approach as liability would fall on you and insurance probably wouldn't cover.

https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/37776-eisy-home-packaging/#comment-345176

Doesn't matter. The last 3 numbers denotes 6 or 8 button. The 2334 is the same for both. 2487s replaced the 2486s and 2334s replaced the 2486d

If you notice in your link it says 2334 are dimmers

There's no confusion. The 2334s are newer. The numbers were changed to differentiate the dual band from single band models. Not all 2486s are dual band. I believe there was 1 revision that was before they changed it to 2487s

Doesn't have to say it. It's still dual band.

The 2487s replaced the 2486. The 2486 is power line only and the 2487s is dual band

Look under the nodes section