lilyoyo1

What are you trying to get to work

Does your UI match your firmware? Did you exclude the device first? How close is the device to the isy

I never took the Isy as a device for non tech users. The biggest mistake i see people make is not taking the time to read the manual for the devices they are just getting into vs. it being an Isy issue

And who's going to manage this database and the 10s of thousands of parameters that could potentially be out there? Everyone says what UDI should and could do but yet I bet not a single person has looked into seeing what it would take for this to happen. How many have taken the time to read up on what it takes to program for zwave or looked deeper into what goes into setting up their device? Not even the op took the time to read the manual to see what was going on with his device before posting about his issue. However, he's quick to be on here saying how things should be done. A simple Google search (or owners manual search) on aeotech's website would've provided the answer. But that was too much work. Yet everyone expects UDI to spend countless time, money and effort to try to program in a database of 10s of thousands of potential parameters for thousands of different devices for something that takes an individual 5 minutes of effort. No one wants to do any research or listen to those who has but have all sorts of ideas of what others should be doing (but won't do for themselves). And people wonder why prosumers are being abandoned by companies. They have the most to say but no willingness to take the time to understand things how things work.

You assumed wrong. Zwave alliance does not define that information.There are no such thing as basic Parameters. Any that you see is what the mfg. decided on. It's easy to research to see for yourself. Take a look at old and new Jasco/GE manuals. You'll see some of the same parameters doing different things for like devices. Ditto for fibero and aeotech

With this statement, I assume you do not plan on ever buying another car, computer, phone, tv, house, etc? Everything in life gets upgraded at some point. 3 controllers in 10+ years is still less than a grand.

Good question. I took it to mean that hubitat provides information to the isy about the device and it's state but doesn't know what the Isy does. Meaning Isy can see hubitat devices but hubitat can't see Isy devices

Id upgrade to the latest 5.3.4. remove the device from the Isy and re-add it to see what you get

Most likely you aren't experiencing issues because you aren't doing anything complex with your setup. If you were, you'd already be facing serious issues with your system. Alot of veterans here focus on automation vs control which is typically what new people are doing with their system (though they'll say they're automating. This is why Oberkc tried to warn you. Things are great now but won't be long term as you expand your knowledge and try to do more. When you look around, redundancy doesn't come via disparate systems that do not play nice with each other. Redundancy comes from built in controls to allow one to continue what they are doing should something fail and allow them to get back up quickly. Those redundancies (while possibly less capable) generally do not negatively impact the main system. You claim redundancy but how are you actually accomplishing that other than using a fancy word? Should your hub fail, it's goodbye Alexa/Google until you get another hub or set it all up again on another system. Sure, your Isy timers and app may work but you still have a lot of work in front of you to get going again. Once you replace your hub, you'll end up with half links in your devices which can potentially slow down your devices as they try to talk to the old hub which is no longer there. Yes there are ways to work around that if you know what you're doing but there's no quick and easy fix w/o taking shortcuts which only hurt you long term. The same applies If the Isy fails, you have nothing again. You have the hub app and voice control with no timers. Once you replace your Isy, you'll end up corrupting your hub links once again causing you more work to get back up and running. Oberkc, is only trying to keep you from setting yourself up for failure. As you start doing more, and the headaches come, you'll find that you have zero help. Insteon can't help because of the Isy and UDI can't help because of the hub. Forum help will be non existent as well. With 81 views and 2 replies, no one wants to wade into this since they already know the long term outcome. Good luck. You'll eventually need it

300 or 500 board? Firmware AND UI of your ISY

Experience is the best teacher. Just like others who've gone through the same thing...only to come asking for help as stuff starts breaking down and going wrong. He'll have to learn for himself

There are no problems. Personally, I'd go ahead and get Polisy and install V3 on that. Developers are developing for that now so it's only a matter of time before V2 nodeservers become outdated. No point in having to potentially do the same work twice

Of you're close to your polisy with your device and it won't remove, then it's probably a defective device. Regardless of whether a controller can recognize a device, any controller can complete the remove process. Theres no way to set parameter names. Every manufacturer use their own parameters. This isn't defined by the zwave alliance. On top of that, different devices can use the same parameters as other device types but do something completely different. Welcome to the world of zwave

V3 is for polisy only. It can't be downloaded to an Rpi. You can find a video for V2 on the V2 sub-forum. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/23859-polyglot-instruction-videos/

The hue emulator nodeserver allows you to connect lights to the buttons. That's too much work for me though. My setup is geared towards things happening based on device status.

There's no extended appliance database. I suspect it doesn't use standard zwave command classes. Most likely your device requires custom coding in order to work.

If you don't have the 300 zwave board, you probably should also update to 5.3.4 as that contains a fix for email

Thank you. Unfortunately they will come back if you choose sync nodes. However, this isn't something that one should really have to do for their network. If a sync needs to be done. You're better off doing that for the individual device than for the whole system.

With many people deciding to swap out their insteon for zwave or simply adding zwave support to their Polisy, I decided to do another write up to focus on the 700 series/Polisy than wade through Isy 994 boards. Much of the same information applies but those who never used the old boards or ISY994 (future newbies) may not think to look there. Zwave Boards UDI officially supports the Zooz 700 series zwave USB stick. Unoffically, the Silicone labs Uzb7, also works with Polisy. There's been ongoing debate as to whether all devices need to be 700 series to take advantage of the benefits it offers. I talked to my contact at Qolsys and was told that as long as the path goes through all 700 devices, you'll realize the benefits. The flip side is that you do not control the path that something takes which is why they recommend all devices be part of the same series. His answer is specific to the iq4 panel but I'd assume it's the same for all zwave controllers. If you have a house full of zwave, the range is irrelevant as the greater device density builds a stronger mesh than fewer devices with longer range. The current iteration of polisy (with 3rd party usb boards) does not support S2 security nor will this functionality be added. You will need to purchase the ZMatter board for that functionality and future features as well. Choosing Devices There are many caveats when choosing zwave devices. I won't touch this but will answer questions if someone has any. The main thing is to choose zwave plus devices at a minimum. The amount of 700 series devices being released has grown a lot, though you'll still find standard zwave plus devices in abundance. Starting with a new install, I'd focus my energies only on 700 series devices. If there is something specific you want that's not available, I'd settle for 500 series. Anything lower, you'll be upset from a performance standpoint. The 700 series stuff is backwards compatible with older series so you don't have to swap out devices to get them to work with polisy. There's a big performance gap between 300 and 700 so that may be worthwhile depending on finances. However, the gap narrows between 500-700. It's there. Just not worth the money IMO. That's up to each person to decide on their own though. As with the last write up, I'd still stick with well known manufacturers such as Zooz, aeotech, fibaro, homeseer, and ge. Quality issues aside, you'll find more help and support with them than some fly by night no name company. Saving money is great. However ask yourself if those few dollars are worth the hassle and no help. Mesh Network and Repeating 700 series touts greater range (just like 500 before it and 800 after). However that's open range. Great if you want to go from the back door to your barn 250' away but not so great if you have lots of separate spaces in your home. Save yourself frustration and assume you'll still need some type of repeating device or 3. No, battery powered devices do not extend range. If you only have 1 or 2 devices for your network, there is really no point in asking for help in regards to why the isy won't talk to them or intermittent communication issues. The advice from everyone will be the same. Add more devices. This can be in the form of a repeater such as those from aeotech. You can also use in wall receptacles or plug in modules. I prefer in wall receptacles since plug in modules can be unplugged or moved to a different location by someone. Keep in mind embedded devices such as receptacles will not have the range of external devices so you will need more if you go that route. Range This ties in with building out your mesh. 700 series touts longer range but that's generally open air testing. Performance/range may vary depending on your home. An all 700 series install will have greater overall range than 3 or 500 series but thats not something I'd depend on. I'd still invest in repeating devices to ensure everything works exactly the way i want it to every single time. While anything can happen, I want to be able to trust that my doors will lock/unlock the way they're supposed to vs having to double check every single time due to uncertainty. While range is great, additonal repeating devices also allows for self healing. This is especially important for small installs such as those where one is trying to control some locks. Obviously a large install or zwave only install makes this a moot point. By adding extra devices, you are potentially adding a secondary path for the signal to route through should a device fail or something interferes with your path. Remember, what works today may not work tomorrow as you busy new furniture etc. I've said this before and I'll say it again. Do not fall for the range hype. Some will argue about greater range of zwave plus (and now 700 series)...However, all tests are done in open air under perfect conditions. The increased range will help if you have a modern home with an open floor plan. HOWEVER- older homes with doors and walls everywhere will still suffer from range issues that any other wireless device suffers from. This is made worse once devices are installed in metal boxes, behind fish tanks, etc. Save yourself the headaches and simply buy extra devices Beaming Tis is geared towards those who may look to save money by buying older devices. Finding specific devices that support beaming isn't as big of an issue with 700 series the way it is for 300 (especially) & 500 series devices. Controllers make poor repeaters. Their job is to send a signal to a device and move on to the next task. If they have to wake up a device, wait for it to wake up, send a signal (especially if it's encrypted), wait for a response....what happens to the rest of your devices/programs in the meantime? Another reason for have an extra device or 2 to repeat. Beaming devices can hold that message until the device wakes up, send it to the device, and wait for the response. During this time, the controller can handle its other duties and get the message when ready. Adding Devices All 700 series devices support NWI (Network Wide Inclusion). Even with NWI, I still add my devices within a few feet of the system. This is generally a requirement of security devices (such as locks) but it's one I follow with all my devices (including insteon and my hue with the hue hub). This allows me to verify the isy can control things without issue before installing in it's final location. This way, if there is an issue, I've taken the isy out of the equation. I add devices in the order I'm installing from closest to farthest. While this isn't necessary, I still do this from when zwave first came out. With secure devices such as doorlocks, you should have them within a few feet of polisy when adding to the network to ensure everything works properly. Once done, verify functions, move to permanent location, Install, and heal. Both my test polisy and house polisy units had NWI prechecked. I'd go into your zwave settings panel and verify that it's turned on. The proper way to use NWI would be to include devices that are closest to your polisy and work your way out. To exclude devices it's the opposite. Work your way from the farthest reaches to the closest. For the most part, most devices can only be added to one controller. Yes, there are some variables such as primary and secondary controllers but for a newbie, that's advanced information that can cause confusion. Should more detail be needed, ask and I will explain. Exclude/Include The best way to add a device is to exclude it first and then add it. This process wipes out any potential links which could prevent a device from being added. Once im done adding devices, I'll run a heal (update neighbors). Those using NWI while devices are already install can probably skip this process. For those wanting to use polisy/Isy as a secondary controller, it must be added to the primary controller before you add your zwave devices to the Isy. While an exclude is not necessarily needed for new out of the box devices, I still do it before including. Devices can come from the factory with test links still there which will prevent inclusion. For me, it's easier to simply exclude and move straight to include than break my rhythm because one doesn't include. Its your choice however. If moving from the Isy or another controller, you'll need to exclude first then include. The good thing is that you can use polisy for that. You don't have to run the exclusion on the Isy (or other controller) before trying to add it to polisy. Nodes You'll probably notice a zillion different nodes will show up when you add a device to the Isy. The zwave code supports those nodes though the mfg. of your device may not be using them for your product. Because the admin console shows everything, they are there. If it's a small install, you can create a folder for them and call it a day. If it's a larger install, I recommend deleting the ones you do not or will not use as they count towards your node count. It's easier to do this as you add each device vs once you have 40+ devices in there. If you go to the mfg. website, you'll find their full owners manual. That's where you can find the parameter settings for your device. Some of those extra nodes will populate once you set the specific parameter for it. Once you've verified what you'll need to keep, feel free to delete the additional nodes. You don't need them for anything.

No one is missing the point. We simply do not agree with your point. As Asbril pointed out, you do not have to upgrade past the point that UDI stated. Your current board and system will continue to work. You could also simply replace your board with a new one for about 50 bucks and continue to receive updates. No different than taking an old computer, swapping out components to keep it up to date

Technology changes! That's the nature of things. The isy beingodular allows you to replace a board to upgrade to keep up at a lesser cost than having to replace the whole thing.

Nothing is wrong here. Technology changes. The 300 board has become obsolete before the system just like anything else electronic. You can continue to use both, you just can't upgrade pay a certain point. No different than smartphones, connected vehicles, alarm systems etc

Are you trying to link an insteon switch or a Zwave switch? Does your UI match your firmware?

I'd submit a ticket to UDI. Sounds like a bug

What's your UI? Post your program