lilyoyo1

That is incorrect. Zwave will not use 700 speeds etc. If you have 300 series mixed in. It will use the lowest class for all communication. It does not pick and choose based on path etc. Since you're just starting out, you'd be better served to have all 700 series devices. Leviton has 700 series receptacles. Aeotech has the smart switch 7 which monitors energy use if your dryer uses 110. Keep in mind that range claims is all open air testing which doesn't always translate well once indoors. I've tested PowerG sensors outdoors and have seen them communicate over looking distances only to take them inside and have communication issues 40 feet away. It depends on your environment. Be prepared to invest in your mesh

No there is not. Generally you'll have to look at your model# to see what it is online. Generally anything you buy today will have the information concerning what series it is on the packaging and started online where you buy it from.

Yes they can. Zwave is backwards compatible. With that said, by using 300 series devices, you would not get the full benefits of 500/700 series

Protocol-wise, there's no difference in insteon and Nokia. Technically you can add Nokia devices to the Isy and control them except you won't receive status if manually controlled and a few other things since the Isy doesn't know it's info. The devices themselves are better than insteon in quality and look. They are also designed specifically for led bulbs which makes them better than insteon on that point alone. Who's knows when they'll be released. Even the employees are in the dark

It would help if you gave system details such as firmware and UI. Generally yes, you can mix scenes with insteon and zwave. You just have to configure your devices within the scene and controller to do so. You only need the switch on/off in the scene not the other stuff

My advice is to keep it simple. While it sounds good to set someone up, providing too much information will overwhelm them. You're better off finding someone who can step in to manage the installation when you're unavailable. Everytime I've sold my home, I left the devices but removed all automations except for basic timers such as the outside lights turning on/off. Anything custom was erased. If the new owners wanted custom programming, they could hire me to program for them. I do have people that can step up in my absence to manage my system and other client systems. That's the route you should take. Most people do not process and understand technology the way we do so them trying to maintain and program probably won't happen. Giving them a lot of info only lessens that chance even more. Reality is, it's easier to factory reset everything than to fix someone else's work. Especially for someone not familiar with the Isy. In the time it would take me to learn your programming style, read through all your programs and topology, and understand why you did certain things, I could've just started over which leads to how I handle things. For every client, they get a USB drive with 3 backups on it. The first is what I call a clean slate backup. This has all devices added to the isy with zero links except for true multi-way switches. Each device is renamed and grouped in folders that corresponds to the room that they are located in. The load switch is identified in the system as well as marked on the wall plate (I use Screwless wall plates). The secondary switches are numbered as well in the same manner. The next contains all scenes with no programming done. The last backup contains their final configuration. No matter what i change in the home later on, these 3 remain. This allows them or a future programmer, to factory reset the system and re-add everything cleanly should they choose too at whatever level they decide. The file also contains how to set/change the password (along with current password), what each backup contains, and how to factory reset the system and restore backup's. I do my own sort of topology and glossary of terms. There's a copy of what each keypad looks like and what's connected to each button. It also contains the expected behaviors of each button and switch when turned on/off (ie: Turning Music button on starts wife's playlist. Double tap starts husband's playlist for that room. Off, stops music). This not only provides the client with a resource on how the system works but also allows someone coming behind me to know what is supposed to happen, when, and how. This way, should they need to rebuild things, they can use their own style of programming to accomplish the same thing. It also allows me to know what I was attempting to accomplish should I need to go back years later to add or change something.

eBay

That's easy enough. None really generate alot of heat so they could go in any closet. Depending on house setup, if you have a coat closet in the center, many times the doorbell transformer will be there. If so, you could tap into that for power and then run Ethernet from your basement to the closet. Add a switch and now you're done. Before I started doing new construction only, I've hidden stuff behind picture frames, built hidden boxes to sit planters on and put stuff in those, etc. Sometimes it's thinking outside the box and making things part of the environment

I might be over thinking things, but wouldn't it be easier to use wifi with a polisy pro or run a line from your router to your optimal location and put polisy there vs trying to figure stuff out with a USB stick and adapters?

What was your program?

Reboot ISY and make sure device is close to it

I've never had a problem on any of the firmwares. Are you using Mac or pc? Firmware/UI

How far are you trying to go? They're are people here who have been successful with 40+ feet. With that said, they used high quality shielded cables. I believe it was @Teken

I doubt it. Not at the pace we keep buying

Michel has stated they've applied to be a partner so I think it's a good chance. Alarm integration depends on needs. The M1 is a great system but can be difficult to install.

I wouldn't say that. My suppliers has already let it be known things are in limited supply.

Yes it does junk up things since you're potentially sending messages that aren't needed. Personally, retries are a bandaid to fix communication issues. If you have issues, you're better off trying to solve them instead. If you can't, that's when retries comes into play

Zwave is generally slower than insteon but not 2-3 seconds slower. Keep in mind, this is still early on in testing. Most likely it'll improve.

You may want to check on Roomie remote's forum as there isn't many people here using it.

Were they originally 6 button kpls with an 8 button faceplate? Does your UI match your firmware? Are you using the launcher from the 5.3.4 page?

I'd upgrade to 5.3.4. Clear your Java cache, and make sure you use the launcher from the post.

?. You're way off in your description but i appreciate it.

Since your devices are 300 series, you won't see the benefits of 700 series. 700 series has greater range than 300 or 500 but 800 series is the long range version (open air)

The fact that you've turned to childish name calling, and still have a side comment with every post shows that YOU'RE the one with a tender ego. You knock everything that everyone says then cry "leave me alone" when called out, and delete your posts like a child. I'm still waiting for you to have a single post that actually helps someone vs trying to appear like you're smarter than everyone else but in the end....

Yeah- because that's so easy for a newbie to understand. If you feel we're so bad, why are you here?