smokegrub

How old is the PLM. They are notorious for failing near the 2-year mark.

Thanks, Teken.

In reading the Wiki it says that this function only works if devices are "same type". I assume that means that both devices must be either Single Band or Dual Band. I want to replace SwitchLinc (2466S) with On/Off Switch (2477S).

I went with Honeywell and am well-pleased. I am hopeful that the ISY will soon work with it.

I wish I could offer help, but I cannot. That thermostat is the least reliable of my Insteon devices. I have found that removing the power from the device and rebooting it a minute or so later has been very helpful. You might want to try that.

A neighbor entered the remote location a short time ago and the door sensor reported the entry and now displays as OFF. Seems the status will not be displayed until the sensor is first activated. All is well.

Thanks, Larry. Such capability would be a tremendous advantage/selling point.

Yes, I am aware of that. But, on a specified frequency, the device reports its heartbeat. I would think that at that moment it could be made possible for the device to be designed so that a program could trigger a link. It would cost a bit more, perhaps, and you would use a bit more battery when you linked but you do that anyway when you have to remove these devices, etc. to link. A question for some of you who are accomplished in this field, is this technically possible?

A closer examination on my part shows you are correct. I will wait until I can have someone enter and see what happens. This sort of issue is why I feel these devices need some way to be linked and accessed remotely. I know it is a battery issue but perhaps owner programming could be done to permit access during the brief interval when the device is reporting its heartbeat.

Sorry about the false alarm. The door sensors are now reporting correctly. Apparently, they must exceed the programmed time for reporting battery level before they show their on/off status as well. Live and learn. At any rate, thanks for the prompt feedback.

The sensors were working perfectly until I replaced the batteries. They failed in unison after first being tested by opening/closing and monitoring their reporting. I will wait a bit, have someone open a door and see what happens. As I noted previously, the open/close sensor has now reported a heartbeat.

Teken: I have those programs in place. In fact, the open/close sensor just reported a heartbeat. Perhaps I have called for help too soon. I will wait and see what the hidden door sensors do over the next 12 or so hours.

A few days ago I replaced the batteries in 3 hidden door sensors and an open/close sensor. Devices were placed in linking mode and their performance was assessed. That is, the doors were opened and closed to ensure they were correctly showing their status in an ISY 994i and MobiLinc Pro. I have since left that location and now none of those devices are reporting their status in an ISY 994i IR/Pro or in MobiLinc. Since I am 325 miles from that location troubleshooting is going to be very problematic. Any thoughts as to what might have happened? I am considering asking someone to open a door there and see if the event is reported. Other than that, asking an untrained person to put each device into linking mode is going to be a pain.

I use an ApplianceLinc to control a small fan. The ApplianceLinc is controlled by a KPL button. When the KPL button is used to control the device, it properly displays its status. If, however, I control the ApplianceLink directly, the status does not display properly on the KPL. No problem. I thought. I tried placing both the KPL button and the AppianceLinc as controllers in a scene. Only the KPL could be entered as a controller; the ApplianceLinc could only be entered as a responder. This is no big deal but I would like to know if there is a way to address this display issue. Thanks.

Thanks, Paul.

Before I order these I need to know if they will work in an outlet which has only two wires.

Poor research on my part. Thanks, Stu. I placed a dual band plug-in about 10-12 feet from the 2-wire and all is well. I will add these details to my device notes.

I will install a plug-in dual band device nearby and see what happens.

I have another of these devices and it linked easily. This one is located within 1 foot of a ToggleLinc which linked first try. I have tried air-gapping the device-didn't link. I then did a factory reset. After the factory reset the device linked but then dropped its connection with the red exclamation point. I have since tried to factory reset the device but it will not reset. I get one short beep and the bottom light on the device turns green but it never produces the long beep. The switch controls the incandescent light but will not link. I think I have a defective device. Thoughts/suggestions?

Stu: Your instructions were spot on. The contractor completed the installation. I set up the programming and all is well. No more pulling chains! My sincere thanks.

Stu: I passed your note along to my contractor and got this as his reply: I had an appointment for a checkup earlier today and in my distracted state of mind misunderstood what the guy was saying. My previous response needs to be amended. Here’s my previous response: Hi Donnie, The standard is to break the hot line through the switch, not the ground. It may be wired through the ground here but that seldom is the case. The switch will break the circuit either way and will work the light/fan but breaking the ground leg leaves power at the outer edge of a light socket rather than the little button at the bottom of the socket and will be hot even with the switch turned off. We can test it without removing the fan by finding another ground and checking for current at the switch. Frank What I said is correct but like most of the questions in the debate Wednesday, I didn’t really answer the question. He’s correct in saying that the white line in the switch box is the line side and the black is the load. The white wire of the switch leg is connected to the black wire in the ceiling box so that the hot line is broken in the switch and returns to the box on the black (switch leg)wire which is connected to the fan/light black wires. I’m still a little baffled by a change needing to occur at the fixture. I think that the wiring at the fan is correct but I can check the wiring at the switch to make sure. If a 3rd wire is necessary (I think that it is) I think that we can run a white neutral wire from anywhere in the electrical system (we don’t have to get it from the ceiling box, it can come from anything attached to the ground bar in the panel box- we can test this by running a wire neutral from any outlet temporarily to the KPL) to the switch box and then use the new white to tie to the white KPL, original white in the box to tie to the black on the KPL and the black to the load side(red wire).This makes a situation that keeps power at the KPL all the time. Getting a new wire to the box may be tough but doable. ​Do we have a misunderstanding here? How do I straighten it out?

Are you saying we need to pull another wire, a neutral, to the box where the KPL will be located? What about the FanLinc given the fact that it is linked and performing as wired? Pardon my ignorance on these matters.

Stu, that is what I have. We have been trying to install an 8-button KPL to control the light/fan but so far we have been unable to get the device to link. Also, if the KPL is installed we get no power to the FanLinc. There are only 2 wires at the KPL.

A contractor is hooking up a FanLinc for me at an away location. I linked it successfully but the only nodes I see are Fan (OFF/ON) and Motor (Slider Bar Control wi. No Nodes). He will be wiring in a KPL for control but I am puzzled as to why I am not seeing nodes now.

Larry: Thanks for your help.