larryllix

In view of the hardware wanted, I guess my path might be bilding a bi-directional bridge with python3 and a RPi. Your time would be great, depending on your skills. I have code written to receive NR sends from ISY in python3 if that would help. Not sure what DMX would look like over Ethernet. http stuff is not real time. I have had trouble with packets passing each other in drivers and routers. SCADA systems have trouble with this as well so event are time stamped so they have a recording of the actual event time but that doesn't help real-time events. DMX must have this worked out somehow or not be Ethernet channel protocol sharable.

I prefer the control of having ISY as a central control.The Insteon SwitchLinc Dimmer is plug and play with ISY, and can create 6 different commands, natively. With some thought another 4 or 6 commands can be extracted from combinations..eg. Off command while already Off etc.. Just need to get control of each lighting device from ISY using Network resources, preferably without a bridge computer such as RPi. ISY is your friend to put it all together.

I don't use skills to operate lights directly, only via ISY I have never seen an Alexa skill that will do colour, yet, and I need to operate three different brands of lights with matching hues. Even Philips bulbs use different hues parameters between their Bloom and Hue bulbs. I use ISY variable charts to match them up. So for one uniform colour around the room, I use Alexa. For varios white only levels I use the SwitchLinc on the wall. For different holiday colour themes, I use the SwitchLinc on the wall and ISY sets the festive theme automatically or I can force the colour them with Alexa. "....Alexa! Turn On Halloween lights!" as well as double tap off, on the Switchlink dimmer, during the week before Halloweeen.... gets me orange and dark purple lights around the room.

...."Alexa!...Turn on mauve lights!" Five Hues, five MiLight bulbs, and four LEDenet controlled RGBWW strips all turn to the deepest beautiful mauve colour, all around the room, You won't need to dim the colours (what for?) but you will want to use at least three levels of white. I use a SwitchLinc dimmer to controll all my settings. No wall control will natively control three different protocols. I have remotes and apps for the different brands but never use them, once the novelty wore off. First thought, would be an old Android phone with an app running, mounted in a holder, on the wall. Second, would be an Insteon 4 rockt keys, mini-remote (16 commands) or KPL, for any combination you can think of. Dedicate a few functions to levels, and a few functions to select colours.

For sure, but then when editing programs, I sometimes forget to start the program again. I've been caught a few times now. Right now I rely on multiple times as I cannot depend on the "Run at startup" option. The usual fix is to add another program that kickstarts all these programs (Then). Another easy to forget item though. Hopefully UDI will add this option Run at startup, "If", "Then", "Else", to alleviate this problem.

That would be every 7 minutes due to a syntax error in the ISY syntax. This is just to call attention to users attempting to make time critical programs. Should have been somethig like Repeat and Wait 6 Minutes. Also the OP wanted 24/7 so he can remove the "to 12:00 PM" line. I like to use several OR times durig the day to restart any Repeat loop stalling, sooner, ie...when you edit the program, or the power cycles to ISY.

I have many of the LEDenet controllers you purchased. All you need is a 3A+ 12V power supply, a pigtailed power supply female inline connector, RGBWW LEDs strips, a pigtailed flat ribbon cable with 5 pin connector to match, and a few Network resources in ISY. For mobile device control, download the free app for MagicHouse UFO and select the 5 channel option. The Wall panel doesn't seem to be compatible with any of the cheap controllers and certainly is not required for that LED controller. I don't see what the the 2.4GHz protocol will support documented on a quick look, unless it is some form of DMX controller.

Sorry, I have no idea what that chart is supposed to represent. I do not know what FFT stands for. Digital scopes can sample every X waveforms and unless you are watching it would be gone, as with an analogue scope but with missing information but... Yes, it would seem to have to be repetitive, I agree. When you have third harmonics mixed with the fundamental it not only off centre peaks your sinewave peak but it shifts your zero crossing of the voltage. IIRC Insteon works on this zero crossing, for timing, just before the following zero crossing. You didn't say whether you have HID lighting. These make third harmonics and could be a problem. To see that on a voltage waveform that distinct means high impedance, to the source, (no absorption) or very strong third harmonic currents. Just pulling at straws here. For firmware suspicions, I would factory reset your ISY and restore your location, password, time zone, and backed up image. It's quite easy and painless. After mixing your UI and firmware version who knows? With your current problem you are going to revert back to your last good backup...yuk. I mixed v5 with v4 UI once and only a factory reset got me out of the weird stuff that followed. You obviously have the background and equipment to make this work. Keep on truckin'!

Unfortunately scope traces only show repetitive waveforms well. Glitches and spikes hardly ever show up unless they are repetitive. Scopes do not do a good job for this and it can take more specialise harmonic analysis or noise analysers. The newer digital scopes may only show a waveform every few, and never display random disturbances, with their sampling techniques. Your first trace shows the 60Hz full of harmonics with its lumpy and bumpy sine wave. The lopsided wave peaks indicate third harmonics. Do you have HID lighting? It's been a while since I have been here. The clipped technique was cool for zero crossing.

Maybe I have told you this before but, you have classic bad neutral symptoms. We have found customer services with neutrals poorly, or not even connected by electricians, to the grid supply transformer and the earth / ground was carrying the neutral current. This causes all kinds of noise in the home, usually indicated by lights that are too bright, flickering, or too dim, and sometimes affected when another load is turned on. In some areas it's possible to have the utilty come in, and place recording instruments at your service panel. These may not be advanced enough to find noise though, but could trigger service personnel to check all neutral connections between your panel and the transformer neutral bushing.

I find any time I have multiple devices with the same first word the re-ask is a problem. It seems that when the following words are not completely clear, or even clear, Alexa will ask again and when given the exact same phrase, is OK with that. But I have found the more successful syntax is ...Alexa...turn on/off xxxxxx. The syntax ...Alexa... Turn xxxxxx on/off malfunctioned about 50% of the time, for me. The end of the device name is harder to parse and parsing would have to be done back to front then.

Don't upgrade your ISY, change your admin console to the matching version. Go to your java console and clear the cache including applets. Also delete your admin.jnlp file. Now go to the announcement of the version you have installed in ISY and click on the appropriate link that will install your matching admin console. Then when they match, you can backup and upgrade, repeating the above.

Your UI and firmware versions do not match.

This sounds like the high medium and low words are confusing the parser next to On.. Try ....Alexa. Turn On Fan Low

Maybe they have provided a method of support for their fine res screens but I see apps (ISY) having to build in custom sizes of fonts and that shouldn't have to be built into every app. It would seem with this generation of unlimited hardware nanotechnology Font size, in pixels, needs to be abandoned. Imagine an app knowing font sizes for every resolution of device based on the old dot matrix printer heads? We are doing that now. Seems like an absolute size of character should be in order and the OS converts it to whatever is needed to display it that big. OTOH the next step would be angular size at your eyeballs and now the OS also needs to know how far your chair is away.

Yeah. That string of confused numbers must be the account or username inside the Hue Hub. I followed somebody's instructions here and the example, to get it going, was to use ISY994user, so I did that. Since it worked I had no reason to ever go back and edit it. I have a hard enough time remembering stuff when I can't cut'n paste text.

Maybe MS could supply screen drivers to make their Windows operating system hardware independant (of their own hardware yet?) like they introduced in 1980 something and other OSes introduced in 1960?

The "More Reply Options" adavnced posting editor has an upload mechanism for pictures. There is a size limit though. I use 10 Mpixel photos reduced by 25% each axis in .jpg format and they seem to be fine but the originals get rejected. Once you upload a picture it is in your media library available in the usual editor.

IIRC as with most of these peripheral devices you have to set up security, at least a user or device name before any other device can talk to it. If a 200 code is being returned then it is accepting the protocol header, anyway, but the problem is more likely that no ON code is being sent so the bulb will never light up. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

You must have put them there. Must be the default name of your hub and you "just got it going" and now it is later.

Been a long time, and I am not sure exactly sure what you are asking but, "ISY994user" is the user name in the Hue Hub that I set it up with.

Here are some of my resources I am using. You will need to copy the protocol things exactly. I use variable substitution so that one NR can do many similar functions so that only a few resources are needed. I don't share between bulbs until UDI changes the way the caching of NR commands is done. Right now if you change variables right after the call the last call may use the new values. Note the bulbs need to be turned on as in the text box. I use three NR for each bulb = On, Off, and Set. Set requires variables to be set up first, while On and Off only require the NR call.

Then whatever hardware you are sending to is confirming that the packet was intact and formatted correctly, and probably understood. I assume this is the Hue Hub.

I don't know where you are seeing this response but it is a standard ACK = acknowledgement. Code 200 = OK. This means the intiator sent a packete of information and the reception end sent back an acknowledgement. = everything understood.

In my ten MS units they are all set about 60-75 for darkness setting. To get a faster response and avoid the 5 minute sensor adjustment delay you can tap the link button seven times quickly to force the MS to send it's latest dark/light detection to ISY, for calibration testing. There is still about a 5 second delay to dark/light changes but not 5 minutes with this method.