larryllix

Funny thing, It can be so complicated undoing the complexities of a three-way switching arrangement by wire colours, to make three-way wiring so simple, with Insteon communications. Creating a simple On or Off OR logic works so much simpler than mechanical switches, one has to toggle to the opposite side, after you study the initial position of the switch. Then there is no absolute status indicator by switch position to start with, as you approach, and only by the lamp around the corner where you can't see it, or even know it belongs to that switch. Yay Insteon HA!

I have very little experience with the KPL LEDs but... You could take the KPL out of toggle mode so that it only produced On commands and try something like this. IIRC KPL EDs only respond to scenes with them included. Dad's Bedtime - [iD 0019][Parent 0001] If Status Control 'Family Room KPL / FR KPL A (Bedtime)' is Switched On Then Set Scene 'Family Room KPL / FR KPL A (LED)' On Set 'Kitchen Lights (Hallway)' On Set 'Chandelier (Upstairs)' On Set 'Dad's Bedroom (TL)' On Wait 1 second Set 'Family Room KPL / FR KPL 1 (Light On and Off)' Off Wait 2 minutes Set 'Kitchen Lights (Hallway)' Off Set 'Chandelier (Upstairs)' Off Set Scene 'Family Room KPL / FR KPL A (LED)' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Yes. Devices can hold about 256 scenes each. It's like having a pull chain lamp socket with many strings on it and each person holding one of the multiple other ends. Anybody can pull the string and turn the light on or off if they hold an end (link)

Just glad it worked out in the end with no casualties.

You lost me there somewhat but The red wire from the double box should be connected to the KPL over to the fixture onto the black screw or black wire on the fixture. Double Fixture Single Box Box ------------------- ------------ -------------- feedBk - B -KPL B - B B - B B - KPL B feedW - W -KPL W -W W - lampW - W W- KPL W KPL R - R R - lampB n/c - R R - n/c n/c - KPL R

Hard switch is the switch in the double box beside the KPL that can be used to test for power. A tested meter is better though. geeesh. All this time I thought we were talking about SwitchLinc switches. The wiring is the same though. Pull your isolation switches out to hard disconnect the KPL electronics and use your ohmmeter. The incoming power should simply supply the KPL in the double box, the hardware switch, and then scoot across the blacks and whites through the fixture box, over to the single box Insteon device. If it doesn't get there I would check in your lamp fixture for good connections again.

Yes Be careful not to break it if you pull it out. It only pulls out about 1/8" at most. Just push it in. After that I recommend that you turn the breaker off, check it with the hard switch for power off. Trace your wires back to the black and white incoming cable in the middle of the double box and the black to the other switch. Pull on wires in the wire nuts to see if stranded wires have slipped off the solid ones in the wire nuts. Do you have an AC voltmeter/multimeter?

The isolation switch at the bottom of the SwitchLinc just needs to NOT be pulled out.

Yes. Is the breaker turned back on and the other hard switch should work indicating power to the black and white.

Did you change the wiring in the lamp connection box? Is the isolation tab switch pushed in at the bottom of the SwitchLinc?

The three way part is all done in programs or for speed, by linking now. Wiring doesn't provide any control from the 'extra switch'. Do this all in ISY and it will dump the links onto the switches. First factory reset both switches so there is no strange happenings with them. After factory reset link them to ISY with the New Insteon icon click. There is a process to create a 3-way scene but I have not done it and can\t remember the process exactly. Search for it recently on the forum or possibly on the Wiki. If no success wait until somebody that is familiar with this comes along.

I think I got it right! It took me some time to figure out what was happening and you can't see all the cables coming in clearly. I figured the OP might sitting in a panic. Been a while for me with this 3 way stuff.

You have a few confused, yet.

Is here not login information required each GET?

I just wish they would have put a main element in those that started with 3000K. 2700K is not a great white light for working under and with a variable colour temperature it limits the usage to bedroom cuddling and TV watching without crafts. The 'Warm Glow' ones were seen at HD.ca for about the $6-7 range but the online catalogue doesn't reflect that now as the prices seem inflated. I will have to do a double take survey here. The prices did seem low on the shelves, esp. for Canada. It seems Philips finally gave up on their weird squashed bulb. They seem to be disappearing fast and on sale a lot.

Sound like you are going to need UDI to help you rebuild your image. Nothing personal. Just your SD card.

Have you checked your SD card to make sure it is connected properly? IIRC it works like a ballpoint pen with a click-click action.

Unless somebody has a better ide and you have a decent backup I would be doing a factory reset at this time. You should open a ticket with UDI. I am sure they can give you better guidance in this matter.

Along with that. check your router and see if the ISY MAC address is showing up. Perhaps ISY has lost it's IP address assignment in the router and/or itself, for some reason. This would mean you are pinging the wrong address.

Reported in another thread "In the past when I didn't have the phases bridged, there would be an exclamation point appear on the admin console. The inline lincs are both on the same circuit, and they are both on the same phase as the PLM." The fluorescents are an excellent point, and if the building has a few years on it they are very likely suspect. I second that one.

Motion If status control motion is switched on <----change to control so every motion detected restarts timers OR If control motion2 is switched on <-------need to be sure every corner gets scanned for users and status boiler is off <--- not needed. no problem setting a device that s already on. then set scene boiler on <---why a scene? Device has more secure communication and retries 2nd program is: <-----put into one program so it doesn't turn off while motion is still being detected Off delay If status boiler is on <-----not needed for one program wait 5 minutes set pump off then wait 30 25 minutes set scene boiler off Need to fix your comm problems, as Stu stated above, or you may get customer complaints about no water when it fails unless you want to be called lots.

On a utility high bill complaint, we had a customer, irate as hell, was told by one of our residential energy advisors, in our office customer complaint dept., that once she delivered her new baby their heating costs and electricity bill would diminish as a baby would generate so much heat. The non-technical woman was not impressed and left the utility angry! Problem solved...she went away! ROFLMAO!! Yeah, we had to go out, prove her metering, and settle her down with some tech talk and let her hold the calculator.

Here is a v5.x method to ramp up/down at any speed you desire. The in/decrement steps can be 1% per step at any time speed you desire. Note I use two repeat loops as my LED bulbs are very nonlinear. The change from about 30% to 100 % is not that great so I speed it up to 3% per jump. Alternatively, the ramp step time could have been increased for the same effect. If the nonlinearity of the lamp response is not a concern the second loop can be eliminated and the first 'Repeat While' condition set to 100% for simplicity. Test Dim Loop - [ID 00F0][Parent 0001] If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Set 'Master Bedroom / MBR Wall Lamp' Fast Off $MBR_Lamp.level = 1 Repeat While $MBR_Lamp.level <= 30 Set 'Master Bedroom / MBR Wall Lamp' On '$MBR_Lamp.level %' Wait 1 second $MBR_Lamp.level += 1 Repeat 1 times Repeat While $MBR_Lamp.level <= 100 Set 'Master Bedroom / MBR Wall Lamp' On '$MBR_Lamp.level %' Wait 1 second $MBR_Lamp.level += 3 Repeat 1 times Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Years back people would push humidifiers to save money on your heating bill by lowering the temperature and saving money on heat. Another forum on another forum contested this with one of the larger manufacturers and proved that it costs more to heat air and humidify it too as it takes calories to evaporate water. The humidifiers manufacturers don't advertise that anymore. I also find less sinus and skin problems with a higher humidity in the winter. As far as lowering your temperature, it may be true somewhat, but not enough to change the set point more than about 0.5c = 0.9F towards the end of the dry spell late winter. I do find the contrast in comfort (sweating) between sedentary activities and physical activities lower with higher humidity though.

Most of us are. That is what we are doing here! ooops! Did I post that out loud?