larryllix

The other very common fallacy is that breakers and fuses limit the current flowing to their rating. They do not and cannot. These devices limit the damage by limiting the time before the circuit opens. Most residential breakers are rated at 10,000 AIR (amperes interrupting rating). If your supply transformer feed lines are very short from a larger than usual transformer supply, your main breaker may have to be a special type to handle the fault currents to avoid explosions from bad faults close to, or inside the main panel. A few feet of #14 conductor and connections typically limit currents at 120 volt to well under 10,000 amperes.

Agreeing... if a dead short didn't pop the circuit breaker within 0.5 seconds, either there are bad wiring connections, or the main breaker would likely open up. Some breakers have dual curves (51, 50 ) where the longer curve gets cut it's time cut off by a (50) instantaneous element that beats the time curve. I am not sure whether that was ever implemented in some brands of circuit breakers though.

Go UDI! BTW: To get somebody's attention you need to type the '@' symbol and their name. Then when the correct name is seen in the fall-down menu select it, and it will install into your text like this @breischaft

From your description it sounds like somebody wired to the light box first and was switching the neutral. Bad wiring and should be corrected. Your diagram doesn't seem to agree with your text. You have the red wire in each 3 wire cable marked with 120 volt (live) despite your text saying none is present???

Somebody has to buy all the drinks!

Too bad there isn't two circuits to each chandelier. You could install some 2200K bulbs and leave them on, while the bright white bulbs were on a dimmer. This would would the same as the WarmGlow bulbs but in discreet bulbs. I found my 6 bulbs would never achieve bright white, or even warm white colour temperatures. I was trying to use mine in my ensuite bathroom but the full-on colour was so orange and dim, they weren't useful for using in a mirror. Others report different results so you may need to try various bulbs. I doubt the little permanently on 0.5 watt LEDs that create the 2200K will be bright enough anyway.

Is Zoom allowed into USA from Canada, yet?

RF might not be a good option with a church full of WiFi and BT gadgets in 100's of pockets. Too many bulbs also possibly putting out signals. With your central wiring grouping the wall dimmer would likely work 100% of the time. However, there are bulbs out there (I think Philips made them) that will do multiple colour temps with a flick of the power switch.

Here are the bulbs that I returned. The colour temperature probably peaked at about 2200K. They were so orange even at full brilliance and they extinguished about 40% level on a SwitchLinc Dimmer.. They don't sell them in Home Depot online stores in Canada now. homedepot.com has a 75 Watt version now, also. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-60-Watt-Equivalent-Soft-White-B11-Dimmable-Warm-Glow-Dimming-Effect-LED-Candle-Light-Bulb-Bent-Tip-E26-2700K-3-Pack-540781/310569783 Home Depot here refuse to return lightbulbs if they have any signs of ever being screwed in so test gently before buying a large lot.

Lol! Just letting the OP know he is not alone in his experience and reason for his thread. Maybe re-read the OP again about his findings.

You already have the Warm Glow lightbulbs. Read the package. I found them doing the same thing. Mine (test 6 bulbs) would only come on at about 40% with an Insteon SwitchLinc Dimmer. Then they would suddenly jump on to 40% brightness. The dimming curve was one of the worst I have seen of any bulbs yet. Horrible useless bulbs. Mine went back to Home Depot. If you want the very best dimming curve you need to abandon the Insteon dimmers on LEDs and use self contained dimming Smart Lightbulbs. They will dim right down to 1% without any flicker. But then you are into remote control of RGBCW bubs with more complexity.

@autoperformanceYes. My bad! This was a test program to indicate conditions during testing programs inside my ISY and was only designed to flash a few times at that rate. As per @MrBill's recommendations above, Change the Wait timer to about 5 seconds and you should be OK not to jam up your Insteon comm channel. It needs some rest every few group sends like that. There is no real bricking. Your ISY may just get real slow to respond.

In addition to @gzahar's comments above, the first and last line as I posted, will save the current level of the light you are "borrowing" to do the flashing, and restore the same level when it is done. Please look your program over and try to copy the program more accurately.

First you probably will want to get rid of the line to turn the water valve back on in the same program. You should want to ensure things are OK first by physically looking and there is three states of logic there, not just two as only one program provides. Trigger= emergency, waiting for human intervention=off, and restoring=on. BTW: Your program font is so small I cannot read some of it. Use the "copy to clipboard " (right click on program name) and then paste it into you post instead. If ....water leak detected Then set water valve to off send notification "water leak" to autoperfomance run program (If) Flash Desk Light Else ---- Flash desk light - [ID 0095][Parent 0001][Not Enabled] If From 7:00:00AM <--------------- optional for no-bother sleeping To 11:59:00PM (same day) <----- as above Then $DeskPot.level.saved = 'Gathering Room / PotLight over Desk' Status Repeat 1000 times Set 'Gathering Room / PotLight over Desk' Fast On Set 'Gathering Room / PotLight over Desk' Fast Off Wait 1 second Repeat 1 times Wait 1 second Set 'Gathering Room / PotLight over Desk' On '$DeskPot.level.saved %' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Note: I do not use this method now. I have MagicHome bulbs and they have a built in flash in any speed and colour and ISY just sends the code and they self flash until stopped.

I have a feeling the WiFi and BT will never get used. People are getting higher powered routers and mesh systems with antennae all over their houses. Would anybody want another SSID that is tucked in a closet or a basement utility room?. hmmmm....maybe for user maintenance? Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

They seem to last much longer as the units being sold are labeled 2015. :) Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

See @Tekenabove. All good ideas and my suggestions also. The SD card is easy to replace as UDI has made it that way.

The PLM initialises in a second or two.

Anybody know where the docs are to enable ISY on the polisy? I remember Michel posting ISY had to be enabled but I cannot find those instruction in the forums here. I finally got polyglot 13 installed after it refusing to upgrade for months.

I don't use the Tag NS so I would not be much help. However Jimbo was working with you in that thread and you never responded back again. You would do much better to include some quoted text or add the @ ping method to your posts to get the person's attention. I just happened to read this thread but had no attention-getter to flag my attention.

I don't think the ApplianceLinc has been made for a few years either. It was replaced with the OnOff module, which supports dual band.

First you must install the Wireless Tags Node server or install a kumoApp to inject values into your State Variable in ISY. Once you have the parameters in your ISY you can write a program to monitor changes and then trigger another State Variable on and then off (1, 0) In your ISY Portal you can then create pseudo Motion Detector, specifying 1 value for On, and 0 for Off. Lastly you can enter your mobile phone Amazon Alexa app and create a routines using your pseudo MS as the trigger and then using a preset spoken phrase on the Alexa speaker(s) of your choice.

Modern for "Who's your daddy"?

Come to the dark side Michel. The HA is so much more powerful! Search your feelings. You know it to be true!

ewwww. Must be older wiring. Thank Gawd they added it to recent wiring codes. From what I have read in forums you may have a problem with any protocol devices without a neutrl and LED bulb loads. @asbrilis going through the same problems using Zwave devices. There are dummy loads that may resolve some of these problems with the two wire devices and LED combinations.