larryllix

I haven't used Hue devices, except for their early development bulbs. There will always be more delay than a direct link between devices that Insteon can do. How much? I don't know. ISY doesn't add much delay time but the protocl channels do sometimes.

That is a nasty situation. The Insteon MS original had some minor problems but it has become extinct and now the Insteon MS II has become the only one now. Many people are not to thrilled with this unit as it presents some logical problems with timing and usage in ISY. It can still be used however. These guys have them in stock. Remember you would be dealing in CAD bucks. https://www.aartech.ca/2844-222/insteon-motion-sensor-ii.html

Yes I use 12v for my strips. I have about 20 of them now. I use this 5 channel controller https://superlightingled.com/dc1224v-wifi-amazon-alexa-google-home-rgbww-led-controller5-channels-control-4a5chtimer-music-group-sync-controller-apply-to-5in1-rgbww-led-strip-light-p-1345.html and 12v, some at 2 amp (24 Watt) and some at 5A (60 Watt). The strips never draw that much. IIRC the max draw on my RGBWW strips was about 20 Watts for 5m strips.

LIkely to upgrade your ISY, it will be less money than one Zwave dongle. Check it out.

The mounting channels or lots of clear (silicone usually) mounting clips are needed. Do NOT trust the sticky backed ones as it never works! As soon as the strip gets warm (LEDs do get warm) the sticky lets go and the strip falls off. I have run my 5m strip off 12v 1 ampere wall-wart power supplies. I wouldn't recommend that small for a 5 channel strip though. I had posted a power consumption measurement chart for various colour combinations in this forum but I cannot find it now.

Yeah, I have had bulbs that put out much more (lux) for the same power used (I dislike improper tech slang like "wattage" ). In case your power rant wasn't rhetorical, these bulbs can light up both WW and CW LEDs simultaneously so they should be almost double lumens (different colours do not add arithmetically).

Yeah...all good points. I have never bought or used just RGB bulbs or strips. My RGBW strips are four channel RGB and WW. However the aprox 3000K WW is a good all around working light in my kitchen as it is all indirect off the ceiling and I have other lighting for working on the counters The LEDenet controllers shown in my photos are 5 channels with the CW (cool white) not used for that application. All my recent bulbs are RGB WW & CW. A few older bulbs are only RGBWW and I use them on my deck and porch lighting where CW isn't needed and probably shouldn't even be used. I have a few neighbours that used CW bulbs outside and everybody wants to get a BB gun...massive glare at night so you cannot see at all. Early in the game I spent a few hundred dollars on Hue bulbs and they tried to use only three LEDs to create all the colours. They now sit in a junk box that should be in the bin and I feel very ripped off by Philips for that one. Hue is way too expensive but an easy go to for the non-techie HA enthusiast. I hear they have fixed their bulbs to display proper colours, as advertised, and I also have one of their IRIS? boxes. Huge clumsy ball with about 2W of light. All my newer MagicHome bulbs (< $10 each) are 9W of WW or CW + RGB. The bulbs can actually put our about 18W of WW+CW light but I am not sure the bulb enclosures or electronics can actually accommodate that for very long. I try to avoid over-driving them in ISY programs. A better NS for them is currently under foot. In the end the common advice to users wanting colour lighting is Avoid RGB only products! They cannot properly create nice white lighting of any colour temperature. RGBCW bulbs come capable of both WW and CW lighting. Note this bulb (labels on each LED) has a complete compliment of WW, separate CW, and separate RGB LEDs. No mixing of any RGB colours is done or needed to produce white lighting of any colour temperature. Much better lighting. Right now WiFi is the easy way to go. Other protocols do not support this technology well, or not at all yet. WE already know some may have plans but who can wait for years on promises? WiFi bulbs are cheap and as your bulb count increases you may need a router less than a few years old. You will anyway as the newer WiFi6 and WiFi6E comes out. If you do any streaming for entertainment you will need it shortly anyway. I am running about 35 bulbs and strips now. They do not consume bandwidth but as @MrBillposted above it may tax your tables inside your router. That may become a non issue later, as MagicHome protocol has a self discovery that doesn't require your router to have tables to accommodate IP reservations. Other protocol bulbs likely do too.

There are a few old threads here on RGBW strips and controllers including pictures of mounting styles, power supplies and all the items to install it with many different options. Most of them are MagicHome Pro app compatible and run about $30-40 per 5m strip, much cheaper than other brands. These controllers go by many different brand names and are mostly compatible, and work on 2.4GHz WiFi. Most of the strips can be wired into any brand of controller. Sometimes the RGBW wiring may be confused but is easy to straighten out to match the software. Most will just plug together with a fairly standard 5 pin connector and the strips can be cut every 2-3 feet where there are cut marks that won't injure the LEDs.

Yeah. When I bought them it was advertised they could control almost anything and propaganda on the box stated it had eight hardware modems inside. It was sent from God. When I actually tried it out, it had videos popping up for everything and was extremely well done. Then when I actually tried to connect to a hub (I forget which one now), the video showed getting a cord and plugging it into the existing hub. Then I tried a half dozen other protocols and the videos all showed the same thing. I returned them to the Home Depot store immediately. About a few months later, Wink went belly up, but about another year later, somebody else bought them and tried to resurrect the thing. I never looked back.

The two Wink hubs I owned that had interfaces to 8 different device protocals turned out to be just another hub that could talk to the other 8 hubs, making nine hubs. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Oh Gawd! I had two of those in their early daze, and after all the cool app videos how to setup eight different interfaces it was supposed to contain, I discovered it contained no hardware at all, but would connect to many brands of hubs. What a crock! Great! Just what I needed was another hub! They went back for refunds.

Maybe SDK? I did a short look but find nothing about REST so far.

I have no idea. I just know that 3 or 4 pieces of software can reboot ISY and AFAIK they are all dealing with ISY's REST interface only. Perhaps there is a standard somewhere that lists common REST style commands.

Have your ISY send itself an NR to it's own REST input to accomplish that task.

My answer still stands as well but I was answering his question. Perhaps it wasn't worded the way he meant it or his intent has changed.

He asked about a TCP/IP command to reboot ISY. Many pieces of software indicate there is, and it isnot related to with the operating system (freeBSD or linux or Win) it is running under. Not a related factor. I believe it is in the REST command set but UDI did not want it used anywhere, if possible so may not want it out there.

Look in your polyglot menus or NodeLink menus.

It can be done, and has been, in NS software but it may not be TCP/IP protocol.

I see lots of brag and negative propaganda of everything else on the Lutron website, but no actual specification of any level of their protocol, only theoretical and proposed concepts as whitepapers are designed to do. I see a firm "we are considering 434 MHz" but no commitment. Anybody have actual links to real specs?

If you have the AiMesh automatic load balancing enabled it may take hours to move devices around between bands and nodes. It makes the routers very busy. There are rules to set up, that control all this device movement and some devices are not capable of it. I finally turned off the load balancing that switches devices between bands. Many of my devices would not "heal" and stayed disconnected. Also the automatic switching of routers nodes can be a problem for many devices. In order to switch a devices connection the connected node must refuse to talk to the device. That will cause devices to disconnect and reconnect to the other node. I did a lot of experimenting until slightly less than half of my WiFi devices switched nodes and they were in a better physical distance to that node they found in the end. Those levels are now set about -55dBm to -60dBm before they will be forced to switch. I found ASUS routers would never properly reset things from a soft reboot. Power cycling them was the only way to to ensure they didn't act up within 24 hours each time. In the end I found ASUS routers had many more features than any router I found for double the price. If others were cheaper, I would have dumped the ASUS units. Reading forums, it seems all brands have problems with this mesh concept. It saves the neighbours WiFi signals with lower magnitudes but doesn't seem to help the owner of them much. MY nearest neighbour at about 500' away can overpower my mesh router signal strength inside my own house. I play the channels, avoiding his channel usage. This usually means using the newer channels that older routers cannot do. I hope you understand the 5GHz radar avoidance system (DFS?) if you under any flight paths or near an airport. That has cause many people problems with routers disconnecting on the 5GHz band. It seems many of the new routers are now avoiding those middle 5GHz ferquencies.

I used WRT- ??? in my ASUS Ac68u, wjich seemed to work well for a while. AFAIK they started adding features which used up more NVRAM, and then began to complain about NVRAM shortages. I began trimming names and all kinds of silly things, and that appeared to alleviate the warnings... for a while. but it kept getting worse., again I finally went back to the ASUS software which then worked much better for a while but then grew more and more unreliable. Since then I have read that the version of AC68u, I bought on sale, only had 64KB installed and they secretly changed the new releases to 128KB of NVRAM. Grrrrrr..... When I bought the AX92u it was to prove the router was bad or not but it brought other problems. Then a second one was ordered and the problems got more complex. A third one came and it went back to amazon. It was probably fine. Al seems good now after the replacement unit from ASUS repair over the last 2-3 months now except the older 5GHz band magnitude is so low on all the ASUS routers. I suspect the 5GHz lower band may be slightly off frequency also and the Roku Stick+ was off frequency the other way?? I have also found many WiFi devices do not like to change routers and must be rebooted after changing connections. My WiFi RGBCW bulbs would not even connect to the same SSID and password on 2.4GHz. I had to start over.

FRom your logs it appears your Dysan NS is not set up properly.

Tuya uses a complex interactive protocol like HTTPS does. I am not sure the protocol is available to code writers and I have never seen a hack of it....yet. For remote control usage only..right on the money. For HA usage...maybe never.

Lutron protocol seems to be a secret. I have found a dozen articles telling how other protocols and frequencies are no good but never anything disclosing what Caseta uses.

Most routers will not allow a reservation outside of the allocated IP address pool. The IP addresses they manage are only inside the allocation pool and some will not even allow access to other IP addresses outsdie of their IP management range. They are designed to work that way. AiMesh routers has a lot of problems. I went though hell and back with my AC68u for years. When I replaced it with a AX98u router more problems started. Then I discovered the AC68u router couldn't handle more than 51 devices. I would just forget some devices and my ISY and polisy were both found operating with IP addresses of 0.0.0.0 once after a total failure of function. In a desperate attempt to fix this I added a second AX92u router to my AiMesh and things got even worse. After swapping routers around a few times I discovered my Roku Stick+ would not stay connected to my 5Ghz band and I then discovered that most mesh routers turn the magnitude down to about 10-20% of what a router puts out, using other equipment. I contacted ASUS and paid the $40 shipping to have one router repaired. It came back as a different unit and things have worked well since. 5GHz is basically garbage but the WiFi6 6Ghz is fabulous. Magnitudes are still way down from whole home routers but the 1200 (even on 2.4GHz) and 2400Mbps connections are nice. The AC68u is being scrapped as an antenna finally broke off and it will not mesh anymore, which I cannot be bothered with. My old Netgear router runs circles around both my Ax92u units for my 35+ Magic Home lightbulbs and RGBW strips. They never disconnect now. Strange thing about these routers is when a WAN problem would happen they seemed to shut down the WiFi systems. When a bad router acted up the other router would disconnect from the WAN. It was very hard to pin down and I never really did. I suggest you find out which router is causing you problems (or best guess) and contact ASUS. They have put out some real bad models and they know it. Since I have contacted a few router companies and tried to find out how many connection their models can support. After a lot of garage answers about WiFi etc. I have discovered...they don't know. Support people don't even know what you are talking about.