larryllix

Is Zoom allowed into USA from Canada, yet?

RF might not be a good option with a church full of WiFi and BT gadgets in 100's of pockets. Too many bulbs also possibly putting out signals. With your central wiring grouping the wall dimmer would likely work 100% of the time. However, there are bulbs out there (I think Philips made them) that will do multiple colour temps with a flick of the power switch.

Here are the bulbs that I returned. The colour temperature probably peaked at about 2200K. They were so orange even at full brilliance and they extinguished about 40% level on a SwitchLinc Dimmer.. They don't sell them in Home Depot online stores in Canada now. homedepot.com has a 75 Watt version now, also. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-60-Watt-Equivalent-Soft-White-B11-Dimmable-Warm-Glow-Dimming-Effect-LED-Candle-Light-Bulb-Bent-Tip-E26-2700K-3-Pack-540781/310569783 Home Depot here refuse to return lightbulbs if they have any signs of ever being screwed in so test gently before buying a large lot.

Lol! Just letting the OP know he is not alone in his experience and reason for his thread. Maybe re-read the OP again about his findings.

You already have the Warm Glow lightbulbs. Read the package. I found them doing the same thing. Mine (test 6 bulbs) would only come on at about 40% with an Insteon SwitchLinc Dimmer. Then they would suddenly jump on to 40% brightness. The dimming curve was one of the worst I have seen of any bulbs yet. Horrible useless bulbs. Mine went back to Home Depot. If you want the very best dimming curve you need to abandon the Insteon dimmers on LEDs and use self contained dimming Smart Lightbulbs. They will dim right down to 1% without any flicker. But then you are into remote control of RGBCW bubs with more complexity.

@autoperformanceYes. My bad! This was a test program to indicate conditions during testing programs inside my ISY and was only designed to flash a few times at that rate. As per @MrBill's recommendations above, Change the Wait timer to about 5 seconds and you should be OK not to jam up your Insteon comm channel. It needs some rest every few group sends like that. There is no real bricking. Your ISY may just get real slow to respond.

In addition to @gzahar's comments above, the first and last line as I posted, will save the current level of the light you are "borrowing" to do the flashing, and restore the same level when it is done. Please look your program over and try to copy the program more accurately.

First you probably will want to get rid of the line to turn the water valve back on in the same program. You should want to ensure things are OK first by physically looking and there is three states of logic there, not just two as only one program provides. Trigger= emergency, waiting for human intervention=off, and restoring=on. BTW: Your program font is so small I cannot read some of it. Use the "copy to clipboard " (right click on program name) and then paste it into you post instead. If ....water leak detected Then set water valve to off send notification "water leak" to autoperfomance run program (If) Flash Desk Light Else ---- Flash desk light - [ID 0095][Parent 0001][Not Enabled] If From 7:00:00AM <--------------- optional for no-bother sleeping To 11:59:00PM (same day) <----- as above Then $DeskPot.level.saved = 'Gathering Room / PotLight over Desk' Status Repeat 1000 times Set 'Gathering Room / PotLight over Desk' Fast On Set 'Gathering Room / PotLight over Desk' Fast Off Wait 1 second Repeat 1 times Wait 1 second Set 'Gathering Room / PotLight over Desk' On '$DeskPot.level.saved %' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Note: I do not use this method now. I have MagicHome bulbs and they have a built in flash in any speed and colour and ISY just sends the code and they self flash until stopped.

I have a feeling the WiFi and BT will never get used. People are getting higher powered routers and mesh systems with antennae all over their houses. Would anybody want another SSID that is tucked in a closet or a basement utility room?. hmmmm....maybe for user maintenance? Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

They seem to last much longer as the units being sold are labeled 2015. :) Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

See @Tekenabove. All good ideas and my suggestions also. The SD card is easy to replace as UDI has made it that way.

The PLM initialises in a second or two.

Anybody know where the docs are to enable ISY on the polisy? I remember Michel posting ISY had to be enabled but I cannot find those instruction in the forums here. I finally got polyglot 13 installed after it refusing to upgrade for months.

I don't use the Tag NS so I would not be much help. However Jimbo was working with you in that thread and you never responded back again. You would do much better to include some quoted text or add the @ ping method to your posts to get the person's attention. I just happened to read this thread but had no attention-getter to flag my attention.

I don't think the ApplianceLinc has been made for a few years either. It was replaced with the OnOff module, which supports dual band.

First you must install the Wireless Tags Node server or install a kumoApp to inject values into your State Variable in ISY. Once you have the parameters in your ISY you can write a program to monitor changes and then trigger another State Variable on and then off (1, 0) In your ISY Portal you can then create pseudo Motion Detector, specifying 1 value for On, and 0 for Off. Lastly you can enter your mobile phone Amazon Alexa app and create a routines using your pseudo MS as the trigger and then using a preset spoken phrase on the Alexa speaker(s) of your choice.

Modern for "Who's your daddy"?

Come to the dark side Michel. The HA is so much more powerful! Search your feelings. You know it to be true!

ewwww. Must be older wiring. Thank Gawd they added it to recent wiring codes. From what I have read in forums you may have a problem with any protocol devices without a neutrl and LED bulb loads. @asbrilis going through the same problems using Zwave devices. There are dummy loads that may resolve some of these problems with the two wire devices and LED combinations.

That is where the old Insteon SwitchLinc Dimmers come in. Although I cannot command any coloured lights my RGBWW lighting can still do white levels from ISY. If I want automatic lighting that follows the outside levels and tints into sunset colouring at nights I use the SwitchLinc dim (long press down). If I want party lighting, I use the brighten (long press up). My TV and Movie lighting scenes toggle back and forth for normal On (tap up), and all lights turn off on a single tap off (short tap down). Those Insteon SwitchLinc dimmers put out 6 different commands that can be used effectively. Cloud (vocals) can give me all the colours and a few dimmer settings, but I only use cloud things for special effects and non-necessary lighting and functions. My festive outside lighting is all automatic from ISY still and honours about 10 occasions with coloured lighting. No cloud required.

I was using GH also. The syntax is the same. You define the program as a switch (on/off device) in the ISY Portal, and use the same old syntax. Hey Google. Turn on/off the XXXX I have a hundred or more comands and they are all the same. Alexa, Turn On/Off Louder Alexa, Turn On/Off Muting Alexa, Turn On/Off Softer

You, me, and anybody else that uses cloud services. We have to expect more problems as there is much more complexity and devices in the data paths that are beyond our control. (routers, cables, connectors, ISPs, servers for ISY Portal, Alexa servers, pathways back and forth between our ISYs and the two. Totally local and self dependent is the better way, and the cloud services may be very awesome but the lesson we may need to learn is, not to be totally dependent on cloud things for serious control. I try to always have a local switch or other control to backup important functions of lights and other devices. I avoid mobile dependence also. They are mostly cloud based data pathways and very inconvenient to use.

Hi Fred. The easiest way I can think of is, to let Alexa control a program instead of the device directly and put the On in the Else, and the Off in the Then sections.

I have a few of my manual switches taped over (so people do not turn the circuit off) with white electrical tape and control my WiFi bulbs with Alexa voice control. I do have some Insteon SwitchLincs disconnected from their loads but a manual switch is always ahead of the lightbulbs in a multi-gang box. Double tapping a switcLinc up or down can serve as a trigger for other devices without interfering with normal Insteon SwitchLinc dimmer operations. In my ensuite I control RGBWW strip lighting with a double tap Off for 7 different colours as well as On/Off from one main light SwitchLinc. All based on timing and assumption the main lights will be off when colours are wanted.. A switch is needed ahead of all light fixtures so you do not have to change the wet bulb while it is alive.

We are using a cloud service. This is typical and a good lesson for us all. Sounds like it was Amazon servers. Mine was intermittent in Ontario but came back last night.