larryllix

All makes sense but it is outside exposed to some weather. Hole won;t work in this case. Inside a protective case to dissipate heat into the outside atmosphere may make more sense for this but IIRC this is an established installation. Breaking the cable in the basement and installing a control point inside on the basement ceiling may be an option.

Metal, likely being more reflective would stay cooler than solar absorbent plastic. Metal only feels hotter to the human touch due to a smoother surface making more contact and having a higher specific heat, so it doesn't cool as quickly when a cooler skin touches it.

I have no Insteon outlets but that sounds like a messed up link. Factory reset the device and then use the ISY admin console to Restore it, writing proper links back into it. If you didn't factory reset it before connecting to your ISY, this is quite common to find problems with any Insteon device.

From your local electrical utility. They can install it if they support that type of billing. If not you could likely buy your own from a supplier but the meter may cost you a few hundred bucks for quantity one. Then installing a meter base and wiring it in may cost another $500...rough guess. You would need the ISY zigbee card to talk to the meter, provided that ZigBee protocol is supported. Zigbee has had no standards until a short time ago so UDI would have to verify the standard their card supports. There are much cheaper and easier methods to get metering data if you don't need the ~ +/-1.0% energy accuracy.

The wall control has 60Hz synced time clock, an open/close button, light on/off, GDO RF control lockout, power, and a few other functions over two wires making it retro wiring compatible. That is the only reason I can think of why a simple contact input would not have been used.

I have many GH devices but if they do not get an IP address properly, they create their own WiFi that clobbers my routers on the same channels.

No Change here in Ontario, Canada. Brighten stills responds with "OK"

The ISY Portal is partially bi-directional. I do not have any active GH devices anymore, but many Alexa devices. Here is how it works with Alexa. Create a State variable for control. In ISY Portal use that State variable to create a pseudo MS In ISY Portal define what variable value will be shown as ON and Off In Alexa mobile app define a Routine using the pseudo MS as a trigger and the resultant as whatever you want it to do, voice output, device on/off etc.. I believe GH also has Routines. I hope this helps.

This may happen again. Answer @TrojanHorse's questions above. He is trying to help you avoid this in the future.

If an intermediate resultant overflows the variable, the results will be truncated at the significant end, by binary truncation. If the resultant of an arithmetic operation overflows the capacity of the variable's positive numbers representation, the resultant will appear as negative. The results of storing any number that exceeds the capacity of a variable's capacity will appear scrambled and unrelated to the user, and further calculations. AS we increase the precision used in ISY variables, the capacity for larger quantities diminishes. ISY does not support floating point. Only fixed point. It can be a problem transferring results around into different variable with different precisions in order to handle large numbers and yet preserve fraction resultants. eg: Using an 8 bit signed register, multiplying 127 x 2 will result in a -2 answer. We would expect 254, but any number with the MSbit set, will result in a negative interpretation that may confuse later calculations.

ISY precision only counts the fractional digits. Every intermediate resultant must fit in the whole number capacity of each variable. The variables are 32 bits so max is +/- 2^31 divided by the precision^10. Sent using Tapatalk

That is the way the picture and coarse description reads but the installation instructions are about setting up WiFi and the app?? Maybe they have the instructions crossed with the $79 Garadget unit??? None of this affords a status feedback. There aren't enough wire pairs. https://www.garadget.com/setup-instructions/

The FilterLinc has two receptacles on it. The bottom one filters out electrical noise from appliances, keeping the noise out of your powergrid. That is where you plug your GDO cord into. The receptacle on the back is a straight through, unfiltered receptacle where you would plug your IOlinc into. I had some random problems with my Insteon at that end of the house with my first Chamberlain GDO. I always figured it was from my inverters at that end of the house. Years later I got a second Chamberlain garage door opened with the battery backup and soft close. Then my Insteon control dropped to about 25% success so it was easy to find. A simple unplugging one found it. Then I unplugged the old AC operated GDO unit and things got even better. The motor doesn't seem to cause the problem, just the electronics doing nothing. With the battery backed-up unit I could understand it but it must be the radio power supply in the AC motor unit. Two FilterLincs solved the problem better than my system ever worked before. They are so easy to install. They look just like the older ApplianceLinc plug-ins. Good for troubleshooting Insteon problems too.

The instructions and description talk about setting up the app to control it with screen shots of the status of the garage door. There is also mention of making sure your WiFi is connected first. There is also no terminals shown to connect a dry contact to, shown or mentioned. The whole thing seemed to contradict itself...so I am confused.

Cool gadget but I can't see any difference between that and the existing myQ controller. Is there any local API for it?

A WiFi router and an Insteon FilterLinc. That thing destroyed my Insteon system down to about 25% comms.

You only show one program running. What happened when you tried my suggestions?

ISY doesn't have a command line interpreter or an OS that you can use. Just a real time execution handler.

Welcome back!! With your ingenuity, you belong here!

NIce! Did you know you can right click on each program icon and select "copy to clipboard", then paste into your post? It may have been less work for you than all that html, and avoids copy over errors.

Sorry. I can double unzip your files down into programs but they are all encoded into script and would take days to decode manually. Watch your program icons for flickering colours. You only appear to have 16 programs.

The log does not show WiFi devices, only Insteon etc.. You have a program that is in a tight loop, oscillating. This is usually caused by triggering a program by the same device you are controlling in the same program. Look for devices in your If sections that are sensing status. Look at your program tree and look for flickering program icons. Also look in the program summary page, click on the last time run title to sort them by time, and suspect the top few programs.

Just a notion with trying to fix some of my own odd snags.. Did you have a power outage a few days ago? How many devices does your router report are connected when you open it's webpage?

With the ecobee NS you can just watch "Hold" or a few other parameters. The "Schedule Mode" will change from "running" to "hold" if somebody changes a setpoint. Hold will cancel upon user programmed 2 hours, 4 hours, next climate type change, or stay permanently.

If you use voice commands to change your stat setpoints via ISY then ISY already has it's own confirmation immediately. The three minute max update time is for changes done on the stat. As others point out, use your smart stat's programming instead of turning the dial up and down manually and use a password on the setpoints. I only change climate types on never play with setpoints from ISY. It's safer to select from preselects. If a change in setting is detected just cancel it via ISY. Then a few minutes of delay should not be paramount. The ecobee NS indicates a change so many ways that can be cancelled without even knowing a setpoint.