paulbates

I would plan on some testing. I'm pretty sure the EZflora is a triac design for AC. I pretty sure that if it would work, it needs to be AC. I would assume it would work 24VAC or lower, not sure though. Paul

Hi Its less about viability and more about what's important to you. My take is that UDI does not budge on quality, versions take whatever they take to get right, given the price point. FWIW, I was a 10 year user of all 3 versions of HomeSeer and switched fully to the ISY 2 years ago, for the positive reasons of the product, this forum and last but not least, UDIs direct involvement. I've been on V5 for 10 months. Using io_guy's Automation Shack software, I'm getting direct benefit of Node Server technology. There are additional Node Servers I'm looking to take advantage of. Also, UDI has healthy commercial consulting and power industry projects to keep them not only stable, but growing. How many "flash in the pan" HA hub like solutions have come and gone in the last 2 years... or are very shallow from a capability standpoint? Since new builds generally have some financial "wiggle room", I would get 2 ISY 994is, and make production, and the other one the backup and V5 test box. Chances are you can move some functionality to 5 now. Paul

It could be a couple of things. 1) Insteon devices can "lose their way" sometimes after being installed. Right click on the keypad in the admin console and select "Restore device" 2) It could be the keypad is going bad... if you put your ear close is it buzzing loudly, any other anomalous behavior 3) It could be communication problems. I would suggest trying 1) and report on 2) because its quick easy to do. See if 1) addresses it Paul

The topic is fascinating...... in a "let others try it first" kind of way

John Here is a sample of adding substitution to resources: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/19499-pushover-syntax/?p=183270 ${var.2.27} -- this means substitute a variable at that point in the network resource. .2. means its one of the state variables in the admin console. .27 means it is state variable ID 27 on the list of state variables. Unfortunately you can't use the variable's name. ${mod.weather.temp.hi.24h} -- this means substitute something from an ISY module. In this case, I have the ISY climate module, and I want the 24 hour hi temp to be displayed at this point. See my sprinkler picture in my post above to see how it looks in the delivered message. Here are the variable substitution docs in the wiki. You should be able to get started with what's posted above. Paul

Scott- easier to show it as an example with the Pushover mobile app/service. Pushover is an alternative to email/text services. The Pushover app/service gives me a report of my house, organized in different views: Pushover main view for my house: Pushover list of all activities in time order: Pushover view of my garage door messages only: Each pushover grouping (they call it an "app") can have multiple message types in it, this is my sprinkler list The downside is that there is a little bit of a learning curve to get it going. Paul

John, here is one. Pick 'Networking' for the action, then "Resource", then the name of the resource you created that you want to use in the program. That will execute the resource at that point... if it has variable or module substitutions, they will have the values they are when you execute the resource. Sprinkler - 4 - Notify on Dry Area Program Complete - [ID 0038][Parent 0012] If 'Yard / Sprinklers / Hot Zones - Manual ISY' Status is Not Running Then Resource 'Pushover Sprinkler Log - Completed dry areas schedule' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Paul

The advantage of Insteon and Zwave thermostats is that they can be integrated directly into the ISY. I had similar experience with the insteon thermostat that Smokegrub did, but I acknowledge that many, like Stu, have great luck with them. I have the Venstar colortouch series (T7900) which can have commands sent to them from the ISY if you have the network module. To read the temp and status you need an external server to run software to poll the thermostat and "push" the status back into the ISY. I use Nodelink for that. I have 2 thermostats in 2 parts of the house that are very different. One is on the first floor in the kitchen, the other is between the first and second floors in the stairwell. I also have an attic fan and insulated dampers whose actions are coordinated with outside temp and HVAC. Finally, humidity control is big factor for me. We have very dry winters and the venstar t7900 can run the humidifier via the fan and keep the house at an even humidity level regardless of when the furnace runs. It also can use the AC lower the humidity when the temp is ok but the humidity is high. That's been used a lot this year as the out door humidity is high. The features of the T7900 and the amount of control I get using nodelink made it more than worth the extra effort to set up a server to run nodelink. Paul

Hi, I would try removing this statement: And Status 'Porch Light' is not on Also, how does the iphone geofece get set? Is that another program, if so please show it as well Paul

Because my LAN has become more complicated over time and has more management requirements, I run my own router for wifi and local services like DHCP, DNS. I install it behind the ISPs modem or router. I shut off wifi and services in the ISPs router, or have them do it, if it exists. That way the ISP's modem / router can be changed with little, if any, local changes. There have been times when I switch ISPs, or times when the ISP forces a technology change of their equipment. Historically the ISPs equipment has had limited features or they don't work well, I like shopping for my own router from a firewall and LAN/WLAN features perspective. This is a good time to consider this approach. Paul

No, thinking scientifically, about the Lunar Effect... as an explanation for what's happened across this forum in the past week or so.

A public service reminder that its not a full moon for another 7 days

This post shows some of the 'how to do it" Also this wiki article with instructions on several messaging platforms I looked at all of them and decided to try pushover first and have stuck with it. I'm very happy with it. I use a combination of ISY alerts, and direct email alerts from things like my alarm system... all in one spot. Paul

To deal with them both getting turned on: write a program to check the status of both being on, and then decide what to do... turn one or both off, send an alert,etc. That works well in testing for me, it never happened on its own, For the day to day operation, tightly control the fan with a handful of scenes and programs. Scenes that turn one switch on can be set to turn the other off. I have one scene tied to keypadlincs buttons, another to a program that turns the scene on, counts 45 mins and turns back off. The low speed is tied to a temp sensor on an inolinc. But you could repeat the first process for high / low speed keypad linc buttons Paul Paul

You're welcome. There is also a program that checks for the status of both of them being on at the same time, which would be a mistake. The program shuts down the high speed and sends an alert. Its a paranoid ALL ON safeguard that's fortunately never run unless being forced tested... (He said, making incantations to the insteon gods) I also would get a closing cover for the switches' electrical box, attics are muy dusty, dirty places. Paul

This post covers the background and links to some specific programming practices that could help http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/19333-all-my-insteon-lights-and-devices-came-on-what-should-i-do/

I have 2 inline lincs in box, one wired to each hot of the fan. In hindsight, I would go for an on/off switchlincs as it makes for easier testing at the fan. I have a Windland templinc thermometer on an iolinc in the attic for low speed. However since reinsulating the attic, I have it set to read when it hits freezing or less and then have the fan run 10 minutes a day low speed to make sure the attic stays dry. The fan and dampers to the house are controlled by scenes and programs. The scenes turn one switch on and the other off. Its also controlled by keypadlincs around the house and a remotelinc in the bedroom. One button is on / off, the other it on, and then turn itself back off after 45 mins. Paul

The 24vac 20va is a North American irrigation system standard as Brian pointed out. If those 2 wires contacted when the one pulled out, it could have blown the transformer. It seems odd that its light was still on if that was the case.

To keep riding the OCD express , one issue might be the transformers and sprinkler system wires hanging down from the bottom pulled the leads out of the ezflora. I mount each bundled wire package with a strap and put a little bit of a bend in each individual wire so there is a slight pressure into the ezflora, so jostling of the box doesn't cause what appears to have happened here Paul

djm- I use Insteon motion sensors outdoors: Environment: They will take heat and cold, but can't stand sustained heavy downpours.. that eventually kills them. Either mount them under eves, or protect from rain somehow. Sensitivity: I want to cover an area of about 50 foot radius. But, beyond that is a street on one side and cars could set it off. I put on the jumper to reduce sensitivity ~33%. That's worked great. It trips as soon as a car pulls in or somebody walks off, but not when cars drive by on the street a little further beyond. Paul

Larry's right, the zones aren't opening because they have no power due to the disconnected transformer lead. It needs to be attached to the second "AC xmr" terminal. Pull the transformer out of the wall before attempting to disconnect/reconnect any leads to the ezflora. There's probably not enough voltage to hurt you, but unintended shorts could damage the ezflora's outputs. I would suggest installing a small terminal block in the housing.. attach the transformer to two of its terminals, and a similar gauge wire to the sprinkler wire from each of the 2 terminals of the block to the ezflora. The transformer wire looks to big for the the small terminals of the ezflora. That's what I did. Make sure there is no bare wire showing from the bottom when any lead is screwed in place. To Larry's other point, Zone 7 and the White Comm lead are a little long. With the transformer unplugged, unscrew them and attempt to push them in further. If that does not work, take them out, one at at time, trim the end until it fits with no bare showing. Paul

Hmm, ok. So if there is no 8th wire, there is no pump or master-valve. So it looks like the ISY thinks its turning zones on and off without errors, so that suggests the Insteon to Ezflora messaging is working and something may be wrong with the sprinkler system. 2 other things to check The sprinkler system needs 25vac to make the valves open. That's usually a ~2" x 2" plugin transformer near the ezflora and wiring termination. The owner may have taken it? The ezflora has an optional plug in termination at the bottom near the wiring for a rain sensor. The rain sensor will stop the unit from watering if it thinks its on. Is there a plug and extra wires near where the sprinkler wires plug in? Paul

What colors are the wires, and how old is the house? It sounds like its not wired with a white neutral wire which is require for the 2477S. If that last assertion is true, you'll need an insteon 2 wire on/off, which is the 2466SW., toggle style, not decora. The dimmer version 2wire is decora and 2474DWH.

I use the 'Custom' location as Larry indicated. You can get the GPS coordinates of your doorstep from google maps and enter those in the appropriate fields when choosing 'Custom' as the location. IIRC from other discussions, that typically addresses this issue. Its easy enough to try. Paul

I did not assume that. I installed my ISY as static, with the ISY's router and DNS fields both pointing to the router's LAN IP address. The router is configured on the WAN side to point to a primary and backup DNS service. This worked on my previous dlink and current asus routers.