paulbates

I would try a factory reset and then use the admin console to restore device and retest. Sometimes insteon devices lose their way and need to be reprogrammed, and its a relatively quick procedure. The other possibility is that its going bad, but I have not witnessed this particular behavior before. What year did you buy it? Between 2011-2012, these had some manufacturing problems. Paul

Teken Yep, that one still feels like a taunt. I am very fortunate that I finished all my keypad projects a while back. There are a couple of places I wanted to simplify functionally and go 8 - 6, but it means more buttons, so I've decided against, for this reason Paul

I've been watching this all year. Apparently there has not been enough threat from zwave yet, and Smartlabs offering an integrated solution with the echo must be very attractive for those that want to take it out of the box and get it working, so more people are buying. Things seem to be on their side for the moment. Basic items like switchlinc dimmers and relays, plus the items in the image, are 10% cheaper at Menards. If I have a new project that needs one of these items, or need an emergency replacement of a staple insteon device, its faster and cheaper for me to go brick an mortar. They do keep a limited number of things in stock so for other items I wait for the black Friday sale. And as Bipto pointed out in a related recent post, I'm waiting until the very end of the sale before committing. In the past, things get more lucrative the longer you wait. Get that cart loaded up though, so they see your finger hovering over the mouse button

What do you have in mind? Its ok usually to have multiple different scenes, with many of the same participants, and use them by function when needed

Hi 0% = Off, 100% is on. So if its being set at 0%, its working as expected. If dimmers are involved, percentages in between will be some level of dim. If this isn't what you meant, can you post an image of the admin console screen with the participants in it? Paul Edit: Some switches bought in bundles are preset with scenes in them. If the above isn't it, I would factory reset them, and then 'restore device' to each

Agreed Teken It is certainly true that thermostat location, vent /damper adjustment and active humidity control are much bigger factors in comfort than brands of thermostat and remote control features.. and no matter how much you spend on a thermostat, it can't over come basic HVAC system issues. I will say for sure going to active humidification control, to overcome dry northern winters, made a noticeable difference health wise for us last year, and periodic fan cycle in "between" seasons as well to filter allergens out of the air. Paul

Are you sure your programs are ok, no continuous execution? You could tell by looking at admin console under programs, any of the program icons "flashing". If you look at the plm or the ISY in a normal state, are the lights blinking? If the above 2 are not the case, then you have some serious line noise coming from somewhere. I have a inlinelinc controlling noisy lowvoltage lights. They work 99% of the time, but fail the scene test almost always. I also had to put filters on one of my landscape lighting transformers for the same reason. Paul

Interesting. Don't wireless devices send 2 on's and 2 off's sequentially? I'm pretty sure my MS does.

I've noticed that before too when factory resetting insteon devices. I can delete a device, and not touch the programs and add it back in. The ISY programs "find" it when it returns, when the name is the same. I've never tried with a different name, don't know if that or the address is key in that association.

I've had that problem with several of mine, out of 5. There is a problem with some of them, usually associated with a particular manufacturing year. My defective ones were from the 2011-2012 time frame. I believe I've seen posts that they can be repaired if you are electronically inclined. I did not take that route, I replaced them. Factory resetting them sometimes helps for a while, but eventually the ones with those symptoms go bad. How old are they, you might be under warranty? Even if you're not, I would call that story in to SmartHome, if you bought them there. I've had luck by stating my case nicely but assertively. I can't hurt to try. Also, I would consider a whole house power conditioner on your panel if you don't have one. It reduces overvoltages and spikes that can harm insteon devices and other electronics. Paul

Xathros- Cards eventually fail from repetitive operations. If deleting it ends up being ok, I wonder if it would be better to rename it to space1.bad? If its a bad sector, nothing should try and access that location any longer Paul

Thanks Techman! Only a few Insteon things are excluded, and those are already discounted packs. The link is: (need to add .html) http://www.smarthome.com/blockbuster15.html Looks like some good items. I have had a togglinc and a few other items in mind, looks like its time!

I would read this thread from this week. I agree with Michael, I think its a complicated approach to maintain. I would suggest watching that thread and see if other people try it and evaluate their success before trying it. I have the ISY portal linked to my google account and waiting for UDI to complete their integration work,

I have that behavior too, on and off over 4 years of using insteon MSs. Not necessarily lithium, but associated with battery changes. I think once the voltage gets low enough, they "flip out" Factory resetting, putting it in link mode, restoring the device and checking settings usually makes it stop. Paul

When you login through the portal, you do not need either of those things. However, if you are using mobile apps that need direct access, or you access your Home Area Network for other reasons besides the ISY, you may still want those things.

I came to ISY from having a hub on Homeseer. When I set up my ISY and PLM, I tried to keep the hub and use the functionality in both places. There wasn't siri control at the time, but I wanted to use the insteon app as my mobile solution. It was too much trouble. The basic problem comes from how each controller (PLM, HUB) considers its dominion over the insteon devices. It results in the necessity to test each system for any new device or and scene change. I gave up on this approach relatively quickly. The time I wanted to spend on automation projects was spent trying to make sure that each change from one system was not breaking the other solution.

Hi Mitch First, I would contact UDI and see what they can do for you. Depending how old your ISY is, they will most likely work with you. Possible, they can help you resolve whatever is going on with your ISY. I came from Homeseer and used the Insteon Hub on Mark Sandler's Insteon plugin prior to moving to the ISY, here are the tradeoffs. If you want integration flexibility and depth, the ISY is the choice. These capabilities can't be found in the hub. The hub has very basic scheduling. No programming logic / environment. Can you give examples of the types of automation you do through programs today on the ISY? If you want voice/phone remote control and simple set up, the Hub is the answer. It is easier to set up, and does remote control fairly well. The ISY has proven to be the best solution for me out of Homseer, Insteon Hub and SH Houselinc. Having said that, I am definitely a type 1 on the list above. Paul

Hi Here are a few questions: It sounds like you have 2 ISYs on your network, both ISYs are named http://ISYon your network. You can't find the new one by http://ISY Here are the 99i -> 994i migration directions from the wiki, DId you try unplugging the old unit before trying to access the new one?

Before you go for the entire factory reset approach: Do you know what most of the devices are and what their addresses should be? If yes, I would validate that the scene participants are defined correctly in the ISY, and try a device by device restore. For devices where that doesn't work. Delete the device and add it back in. Ideally the ISY "removes all links" when it adds devices under default settings. It won't take long to see if that works or not. If certain scenes are misbehaving across devices, try deleting and recreating the scene. Test the above techniques out on a few devices and see if it helps. Maybe at least the total job can be minimized. An hour or so of experimenting should tell you if it'll work.

I have my overhead garage lights added as a participant in the scene that is triggered by the door sensor is activated when the door goes up. No coding was needed. If the door is up, the lights are on, and vice versa. The GDO's lights stay on for a few minutes.

Given the way the documentation reads, many models have variable speed ECM motors. The speed changes & and the procedure to change them applies to those models. There are other models with the PSC motor and those are single speed. The manual could be a little clearer about that, especially when there is one version of manual for a variety of models.

FWIW, when i follow the path in Carrier for your furnace to the owners manual, the link showed that I had selected it, meaning its the same file as mine. The owner's manual is not bespoke to any particular model of their condensing gas furnace line. Which means you should be able to change the speed used for the "fan on" call by manipulating the fan control on the thermostat. Started here Clicked this link under the owners manual section This is procedure I followed on page 8 "Comfort Fant - On all but the base series furnace, the blower speed can be increased or decreased if desired due to change of seasons, large gatherings in your home, etc. Simply change your FAN from ON to OFF for 1 to 3 seconds (or AUTO depending on your thermostat), and then return to ON. The blower will switch to the next higher speed. There are at least three speeds to choose from. If the blower is running on its highest speed, a request to change will direct the blower to return to its lowest speed"

Better news. I went back through the manual. I make the ECM blower change it's speeds by having the fan on, then, turn it off and back on within 1-3 seconds. Using that method showed that are there three speeds I can select. It turns out both of mine were configured for number 2 speed @ 200 watts, and that number 1 speed runs @100 watts, using my DTE meter app. With this lower power consumption, I'm going to try something closer to what Bill described. Thanks for the RTM reminder!

I'm not familiar with that one, it's case is designed more like earlier model venstars. I would email/call venstar support to confirm that the wifi module for this stat supports the local api feature. Its interesting that this device can alternatively support wifi, zigbee and zwave.

There are commercial versions of them if you search their site. Of each type, commercial vs non commercial, the different models offer humidity reporting and control, or no humidity report or control. It does support C. The commercial versions also have features to use the screen for advertising / messaging. The venstar marketing info says there is the ability to interface with building management software, but I don't use it commercially, venstar will have to answer that. Also, the venstar skyport web site lets you aggregate thermostats by address and control a number of features and settings remotely. I would recommend it. Some of the down sides:, some users report that the the temperature sensing is too sensitive. Also, some of features in the skyport website aren't complete, and it goes down every few months. I haven't had the sensitivity issues, and even with the other warts, I am really happy with it. I think you will be happy with it, but you will want to read through the venlink forum here were these topics are discussed.