paulbates

Depending how far the 2992-222 is from the panel on the circuit, it will be most effective on that circuit vs the whole power leg. After the signal is bridged to the 2992-222, it will have to travel back down the circuit to the panel and then on to other circuits on that leg. It loses power as distance increases. One advantage of the phase coupler (or putting the 2992-222s very near the panel) is that the signal will distributed out all circuits relatively evenly on that power leg. Having the plm near the panel is important too.. same rules. the further it is from the panel, the signal weakens for other circuits. In the cases of a lot of noise/insteon device problems on a single circuit, the 2992-222 helps address that problem spot. As an example, I have the phase coupler in my panel and my plm on an outlet that is fed by one of the breakers for the phase coupler. However, an iolinc in my detached garage has occasionally had problems, so I have an older insteon access point (an earlier version of the 2992-222) out there. It gets the signal to the end of the circuit there. You could possible use both. After you get the phase coupler, I would install it and temporarily remove all 2992-222s. Rerun your program that started this thread. Then if there are problem spots after a few days, start placing the 2992-222 to address those particular problems

Forgot about that Stu... Its this one. We need a "best of" sub forum....

Larry, Maybe twice a year we'll have cold spell with a warm rain on top of it. In those cases, I'll go through periods of a few hours where it can go off based off the rain dripping off the garage roof (I think, don't have a better explanation). You also have to watch where the dryer vent exhausts or other fans (our Jenn-air stove exhausts a foot above ground) Snow / wind have never been a factor. My main MS is out in the open, covering from near the street up 30 feet of driveway, and across the back yard. I had to set jumper 1 for cutting the sensitivity of it 1/3, that's something to think about. Without the jumper It was picking up things in my neighbors yard and every car that went by on the street. Now it catches things moving around in the yard, and any car pulling past the sidewalk driving in. Paul

Jeff, I couldn't hurt. I've been looking for field reports on how those perform. Probably the best way would be a 9v powersupply. I don't have a good way to install one or cover the wires up, otherwise that's how I ideally would do it. Paul

Hi Jeff I've had one outside observing my driveway in SW Michigan for a few years. I probably should have it covered on top, but i don't. The major problem of the colder snaps is that affects battery performance. I change the battery routinely around now before winter, and also 6 months later in the spring, whether the battery indicator goes on, or not. That way there is a solid 9 volts going into winter.I don't want to chance having to deal with it in the dead of winter. Based on how this has worked I put another one under my deck as a "critter detector". This will be its first winter. Paul

I can think of two scenarios. 1) I have a couple of switches at the edges of my network that have to be factory reset and 'restore device' run every other year or so. I notice the flaky behavior like you are seeing, sometimes it goes on sometimes not. More likely likely it goes on but won't go back off. Devices in the same gang box, or only a foot or two away work perfectly. This kind of thing tends to happen after a long brown out period. 3) Since many devices seem to be involved, its possible your PLM is going bad. How old is it? Paul

My experience is more like Stus. I converted to the phase coupler while on homeseer. The insteon plugin i used on Homeseer showed statistics for message completion, and 1, 2 and 3 hop. performance between the PLM and devices. After simply installing the phase coupler and retesting, all of my devices that had problems dropped a hop and or went up into the mid 90% for completion. At the same time, satwar, do which ever resonates with you, range extenders or the signal linc bridge. As noted above, it might take some relocation of the the range extenders to find the right spot but either solution will improve your insteon network.

Its never fun, but you just have to do it. Below are the directions from the wiki, I searched for "replace PLM". You have to go through it in waves. After the replace (restore modem) completed, I had devices with icons that showed then needed to be updated. You will need to work with those devices one at a time in the admin console to resolve. Hopefully not to many. I turned off (made grey) the little battery icon on the admin console during the restore modem, and did battery device as another wave of updates. You have to go around one at a time and put them in programming mode (long set button press usually)... its a pain, but you'll have to be prepared... ladders out, etc, to deal with it. I've found iolincs to be fussy sometimes and have had to restore them individually. In one case I had to delete it and re-add it. Sometimes keypads too. Here are the directions: Restore Modem (PLM) Replace Modem (PLM)This operation is most useful when you need to replace a defective PLM and the ISY is rebooted with a new PLM. When the communication links were established via the Link Management Menu, the PLM and INSTEON devices adds each device addresses it is linked to, in its own link table. The ISY also reads and stores the PLM’s address at boot up. The ISY stores all the configurations settings of the lighting network. If you are replacing a PLM the ISY will have the old PLM address link stored in it. Warning: Never replace your PLM while the ISY is running because it will assume it is still connected with the old PLM. The ISY will appear to work, but it will be writing the address of the old PLM into the device links, thus you will not see devices updates etc. If this menu option is selected, the ISY goes through all INSTEON devices looking for old and new PLM address links. If an old PLM address link is found, it replaces them with the address of the new PLM and adds the corresponding device link to the new PLM. To replace a PLM: Unplug ISY from the power outlet Unplug the PLM from ISY and power outlet Connect ISY’s port A to the new PLM Plug the new PLM into a power outlet Plug ISY into a power outlet Go to Admin Console and wait for system initialization to completeIf you have PRO Series, click on the Battery icon at the top. This will prevent ISY from trying to update programming on your RF devices which are probably in sleep mode Click on the Restore Modem (PLM) menu optionIn case ISY cannot communicate (or decides not to if an RF device/PRO Series) during the process, you will have a series of nodes with green 1011 icons in the device tree. For each one of those nodes: If an RF device, ensure that the device is in Programming mode Right mouse click | Write pending updates ...

Ok, that plausibly has a lot to do with it, though I've not run into that before. At a minimum, you need a phase coupler on the other leg. Also, I would recommend locating your PLM right at the electrical panel, so its has a more centralized view / transmission location. You might want to consider a signalinc panel bridge for this set up as well. These two steps will make sure that the powerline signal makes to all other circuits more evenly. Paul

Do you mean on the same power leg as opposed to 1 circuit? Most of them being on one leg is unusual, but it could explain what you are seeing. Insteon / dual band and electrical signalling is all concentrated on one leg, leaving the other leg "weaker". If there are phone chargers, low voltage lighting and/or motors on that other leg, it will definitely make it harder for insteon signals to get through. On possibility is to put a dual band device or a phase coupler on that opposite leg. You may have to move it around to several outlets to find the sweetspot.

The program appears ok. I'm not sure, can you try the scene manually from the ISY to make sure it functions as expected? There could be several things going on. An alternative suggestion to the programs, once you know the scene works: Add both switches as controllers to the scene with the lights. No program would be needed, the scene would do all of the work and the perceived performance will be a little better. Paul

The developer of the HomeSeer Insteon plugin had this set up. Its probably very similar to a serial over IP type of set up. The only down side that its interface is no more complex than that, and the hub must be polled by the controller (ISY) to get updates from the network. I ran it side by side on homeseer this way for a while and programs that respond to devices appear a little bit slower. You also have to decide if you want to hit your network once a '?' for updates. Its been brought up before but I do no think it is high on the list. Node servers on V5 is another way to access the plm from a network / programing perspective, through the ISY and regular PLM.

I would suggest submitting a ticket to UDI and have one of their experts talk it through with you on the phone. Paul

Hi Are all of the devices in a single scene, or are you sending 4 different "On" commands sequentially? I would suggest a single scene for 4 devices over the sequential commands. Having the ISY issue a number of individual device commands sequentially might give you inconsistent behavior like you are seeing Commands sent later in the sequence from the ISY program will be competing with the acknowledgement messages coming back from the initial devices reponse. Paul

Yes. I called insteon on this. In summary, a long conversation to find out that there does not appear to be a software method to defeat this feature as there is with beep, LED and Blink on Traffic Paul

You need to add both switches as controllers to the scene. Each controller sends a message to turn everything on, including the other switch's state. Paul

Were you using HAD? If your ISY is firmware 4.2.0 or greater, go to the default http webpage and select "Home Automation Dashboard" as the default UI. If the ISY firmware version is older than this, you will have to load it on yourself. I would really suggest updating to a 4.2.0 or newer ISY firmware if this is the issue. Also, I do not have iTouch.htm in my ISY's Web directory. Is this a custom page you wrote or installed on the old ISY? That page (and any other customized files) will need to be copied back onto the new 994i Paul

Thank you Benoit! That is helpful. I think I know what I am saving up for next..... Paul

Could that be 'wiresharked' if connected the local WLAN?

Jumper 5 means that external controllers like the ISY can set the options. What are the options set to when you look in the admin console? I have mine set to "On commands only" and have programs turn them off. Paul

Not a problem Brian. I had to search by LED, and then finally by Green. It was down in there a bit. No worries at all Its more that its a change and we find out by installing and turning on Paul

Found this in the the manual: LED Behavior Keypad has a dual-color green and red LED which momentarily indicates if a button press was successfully communicated to all scene members. LED State Meaning Blinks green once One or more scene members acknowledge the button press. Blinks red once One or more scene members did not acknowledge the button press (note: scene members may still have heard the scene command and adjusted their settings.) The statements seem contradictory. Either one scene member did or didn't respond. I've never seen both colors blink in response to the same button press.I believe my observations are supported by the statement about Red, if one of them doesn't respond, it blinks red. My circuit in question has one of my oldest inlinelincs, but it does come back green some of the time.

Sounds like it would be a separate option with its own message to the switch for defeating it. Probably not the news the OP is looking for Going to share this one with my wife

Hi Brian Let's say I reversed engineered what it does based on observations that are explainable. Another way to test it would be to control something like a single lamplinc that could be plugged / unplugged to see if its red when unplugged and green when plugged in. Its a 2334-2 v,43 Paul

I just replaced one too and have the same behavior. Its a diagnostic traffic indicator specific to the keypad: Green: The Keypad saw the acknowledgement from the insteon network for the command that the key/keypad sent Red: The keypad did not see the acknowledgement from the insteon network for the command that the key/keypad sent I've left it on because one of the keys controls several devices that are a long way off, control noisy loads and I want to observe it. I just looked at the settings on the admin console for the new keypad that shows the red / green. It did not have blink on traffic set. I queried it, no options set. I set it, tested and unset. No effect. I could turn Beep and No LED on and off with the appropriate effects. I am using V5 firmware, not sure if that matters. SL adds features to devices but doesn't always disclose them right away, or the messages needed to turn the features on and off. At this point I'm not sure how to defeat it programmatically. Paul