paulbates

Thanks Teken, interesting. I don't have sensors everywhere which would help this. I have accurite temp/humidity sensors that I move around which help even the temp by helping set the vent openings in each room for distribution. I also turn the fans full on when its >82F outside. From an operational point of view, what sorts of things do the variables in your programs track to extend the cycle time? That's the kind of info I'm thinking about Thanks Paul

I have programs that cycle the furnaces' fans after an hour of inactivity and sensored doors windows / are closed. Currently, I have the program run the fans 15 minutes straight each hour that its in that inactive state, and idle for 45 minutes, and repeat. The purpose is to level the temp across the covered areas, and filter the air regularly. Historically this cadence has worked ok, but I'm wondering about the advantages of doing it differently? My question is not about programming, but operational...what runtime cadence works best for others that do this, eg 5 minutes every 15 minutes as opposed to 15 straight? Or something else, and why it works better. Thanks Paul

I have a number of inlinelincs and I know this is a PITA. It sounds like you've approached it the right way. Other things to try factory reset it in place, retry adding / configuring. if that doesn't work, remove the switch, factory reset it, connect to to a plug and plug it in close to the plm, see if you can add it to the isy. If so configure it. If that works, reinstall it and test it.

Give these 2 a try. I didn't have a way to test, but should be easy to try and evaluate results This program meets the first part of the requirement: If its 4:30, and its within a window of time 2 hours before sunset, turn lights on. The 2 hour window is for cases where sunset doesn't line up exactly at 4:30. I'm not sure how long before 4:30 sunset can be for your location. This could be reduced to that actual gap. Lights at 4:30 - [ID ][Parent 0001] If Time is 4:30:00PM And From Sunset - 2 hours For 2 hours Then Set 'Garage / Garage Lights' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') This second program is for times when sunset - 2 is after 4:30. The other program may decide not to execute, this one always will. The 'And' clause keeps it from executing too soon, before 4:31, but allows it to execute up till the latest sunset time. Again, I don't know what that is worst case for you, so the 3 hour, 30 minute window can be adjusted to your worst case scenario, summer solstice ( - 2 hours) The thing to note is that there will be times that the above program will turn them on, and this will also turn them on too. You won't notice it, just fyi. Lights sunset after 4:30 - [ID 0034][Parent 0001] If Time is Sunset - 2 hours And From 4:31:00PM For 3 hours and 30 minutes Then Set 'Garage / Garage Lights' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

ISY programs can be called through api. Could you call an ISY program written to accomplish that?

Forgot about that Brian. Maybe a couple 2amp phone chargers?

This is common/by design. There is about 2 watts traveling through the Insteon *dimming* powerline module when off. My LED Christmas tree did this on X10 and Insteon the same way,

That can still be a sign of impending failure. I've lost 2 over the years, and it starts something like that. After a few restarts, the link table gets smaller. I would suggest validating your link count

Welcome Felver! I have mine set to momentary B, with the standard 2 second hold time FWIW. I control it with a Keypadlinc key from the house, through a scene, and momentary B means the contacts will be closed whether the keypad turns the scene on or off. This simulates how you use a regular garage door opener, press for up, press for down. When I press the keypad key on, I want contacts l closed momentarily so the door goes up. And when I press the keypad key to go off, I want the contact closed momentarily so the door goes back down. Here is ISY wiki information on it as well It takes a little fiddling, but you will get it. Post back here if you have more questions. Paul

A restore PLM might work for a while. Having said that, I would wait till you get home to try. Paul

Chris You should be able to pull the error log from the admin console where you are. I would start there Paul

The location being the common problem suggests that communications are being interfered with: One possibility is that there is some other noise on the circuit. Since you indicated that this is a specific circuit, can you confirm that there are no outlets, other things connected to the circuit nearby? The other possibility is that the load itself is bad. If its a CFL or LED, individual units can be bad / noisy. Trying communications without the load installed should be tested and eliminated.

What's the load, anything different about the one in question? Can you take the bulb/light out and retry?

Marc I have inlinelincs controlling low voltage pendant lighting. The transformers can be extremely noisy and affect the inlinelinc. Are the loads off on all 4 inlinelincs when attempting to configure? If not, give that a try. It may be that the inlincs are close enough to each other for the manual link, but the plm is too far away and noise doesn't allow the signal to get there. I had to filter 2 of them to get them to work right. Paul

Its probably best to go with best practices where you can. If you install something and avoid an vulnerability, do it. While I agree Insteon rf/db vulnerability is a worthy concern, I try not to overreact to it. I don't use more rf/db than I need, and try to keep things like the plm away from the edges of the house. I use a signalinc bridge in the panel instead of access points. I locate my router, phone base and PLM to minimize its strength at the property line where someone could most like "sniff" it. I have very few DB devices. To your point, out of 125M houses in America, whats the threat potential for my individual house to an impactful insteon exploit? I believe its very low. Other than the things I've listed above, my alternative is to replace insteon. And if so, replace it with what? Google "z wave vulnerability" for a list of possibilities there. I think its a matter of minimizing exposure in the most practical way. Paul

Phil You can close it. Its a separate process that locates the ISY so the admin console can start. or for multiple ISYs if you have more than one. One other thing you can do with it; I've had 2 entries in it for my laptop, one for the local address 192.168.x.y for access at home, and one with my dyndns name and mapped port number when I travel. Paul

Hi jackman, welcome! I'm more aligned with Teken. I converted from HomeSeer last year, and after trying to migrate without rebuilding, I ended up starting from scratch. I had ~40 devices at the time and it helped to document and review that everything was right. Maybe half a day or so, but that included time to have a naming scheme etc. No irlinc but 2 ezfloras. If you decide to migrate as is, I would pilot several devices to make sure it does what you expect Paul

+1. I went through a period long ago of using an x10 universal module and key chain remote for the garage door, then had the thoughts about security and took it back out. And since I can sense when the door goes up and that its night out, I have that input to turn on premise and inside lighting automatically; I don't need the extra buttons on the remotelinc for lights. Entry methods, as Teken points out, should be left to dedicated security devices like GDO remotes, Elk, etc.

Cory I'm not 100% based on the write up... (Depending) if its two separate 100 foot runs, move the switches to the other, house side of the line. You might have to turn the lights on if there are outlets on the other end used for yard work, etc. Maybe I'm not reading it correctly though, and the two items are on the same 100 foot run Paul

Its a nice feature when you have a mix of devices controlling the same dim-able loads in scenes. I use this on keypads where the A load is relay, but other buttons control lighting on inlinelinc dimmers.

There are boards for that.....

Man, wish I had know about these before. These are on my homedepot list for this weekend!

I had several KPLs from the 2011/2012 timeframe. When they start clicking and flashing, its only been a short time before they go dead. Just lost the last of those last month. The ones form before that time and after that time have been fine.

I've had those symptoms when KPLs are going bad... either randomly or touching a button. I haven't had it happen with a link before...does the link activate the button that powers the KPL's load? Paul

The analogy police have been notified