paulbates

FWIW, when i follow the path in Carrier for your furnace to the owners manual, the link showed that I had selected it, meaning its the same file as mine. The owner's manual is not bespoke to any particular model of their condensing gas furnace line. Which means you should be able to change the speed used for the "fan on" call by manipulating the fan control on the thermostat. Started here Clicked this link under the owners manual section This is procedure I followed on page 8 "Comfort Fant - On all but the base series furnace, the blower speed can be increased or decreased if desired due to change of seasons, large gatherings in your home, etc. Simply change your FAN from ON to OFF for 1 to 3 seconds (or AUTO depending on your thermostat), and then return to ON. The blower will switch to the next higher speed. There are at least three speeds to choose from. If the blower is running on its highest speed, a request to change will direct the blower to return to its lowest speed"

Better news. I went back through the manual. I make the ECM blower change it's speeds by having the fan on, then, turn it off and back on within 1-3 seconds. Using that method showed that are there three speeds I can select. It turns out both of mine were configured for number 2 speed @ 200 watts, and that number 1 speed runs @100 watts, using my DTE meter app. With this lower power consumption, I'm going to try something closer to what Bill described. Thanks for the RTM reminder!

I'm not familiar with that one, it's case is designed more like earlier model venstars. I would email/call venstar support to confirm that the wifi module for this stat supports the local api feature. Its interesting that this device can alternatively support wifi, zigbee and zwave.

There are commercial versions of them if you search their site. Of each type, commercial vs non commercial, the different models offer humidity reporting and control, or no humidity report or control. It does support C. The commercial versions also have features to use the screen for advertising / messaging. The venstar marketing info says there is the ability to interface with building management software, but I don't use it commercially, venstar will have to answer that. Also, the venstar skyport web site lets you aggregate thermostats by address and control a number of features and settings remotely. I would recommend it. Some of the down sides:, some users report that the the temperature sensing is too sensitive. Also, some of features in the skyport website aren't complete, and it goes down every few months. I haven't had the sensitivity issues, and even with the other warts, I am really happy with it. I think you will be happy with it, but you will want to read through the venlink forum here were these topics are discussed.

I use a similar program with status to watch a keypad key and change my thermostats from home to away; the second statement in the if has not been needed. Is that more a requirement when using control? It would not hurt to do it.

Welcome Amigo! No on Honeywell. I have 2 venstar colortouches and they can be managed locally via a rest api. If you search this forum for venlink, there is a utility program that interfaces the colortouch with the ISY from io_guy. I don't have experience with radiothermstat, don't know either way. Paul

Thanks Tekan and Larry. I agree that lots of sensed datapoints would allow the most opportunity for control. I would love to put dampers in ducts in the newer part of my house, but they are all routed and split in a tiny crawlspace. I have thoughts about the controllable floor vents. I can detect when the familyroom/kitchen is likely warmer and could restrict venting to the family room. I have an additional T5900 thermostat that I can install upstairs and want to wire it in parallel to the current one... but again getting the wire there for it (or remote sensor) would be extremely difficult... I'm not a fan of controller setpoint manipulations, I want the HVAC layer to fully manage that. I use the venstar's humidification cycle keep the humidity at 34%... I burn through the pads above that. I've also empirically played with it. 30% is where people start complaining. There is also a range on what is the acceptable low. Also, given our cold snaps, I have io_guy's programs to step humidity down with temperature so the windows don't frost up. 34% allows that to step down. Paul

Thanks Scott and Bill. I went back to the furnace manual. I got Carrier Series 100s, where 100 < Infinity . It looks like there are only 2 speeds, High and low and I am configured for low. I remember when I first got both furnaces set up, that one of them constantly blew at a very low rate when not heating. I had to use a tissue on a vent to prove it was actually going and go listen for faint motor noise. The root cause was the green fan wire was miss connected. I re-terminated it to the thermostat fan call, and it now uses the 200w "low" speed. I'm going to review the manual, there are a number of dip switch settings and headers. I might call carrier as well. If that is the lowest speed, that's 400w when both are running will be impactful electric bill wise and I have to consider how much to run it. Scott I would love that free cooling / exchange feature, but it would have been surgery to get it physically installed my house.

I adapted this program I use to track humidification cycles for my furnaces. It shows how to track for each cycle, as well as the total. I've never tried counting to seconds, this one has operated using minutes. If status synchrolinc is on Then $sumppump_cycles += 1 How many cycles were there? Repeat Every 1 minute $sumppump_current_cycle_time += 1 How long is the current cycle (minutes)? Else $sumppump_total_runtime += $sumpump_current_cycle_time Add the current cycle to the total runtime (minutes) (Do stuff with the current cycle data, log, notify, etc) $sumppump_current_cycle_time = 0 Reset the current cycle time counter Daily, maybe midnight, you'll want another program to log the cycles and total runtime and reset. Or weekly, or whatever time period seems good. This also assumes a good clean on and off from the syncrolinc, and that its not jumping on and off a few times when starting and stopping, which will affect the cycle counter.

Thanks Bill, very indepth. That's an interesting approach. My programs have been focused on these transition times of the year of moderate temps yielding fewer, shorter cycles and the fan not running..... when allergy conditions are the worst. During the rest of the winter, heat or humidification cycles run it frequently, but I should try running it full on during the day. My new gas heaters do have variable speed fans. The choices on controlling them were limited... 1) use carrier's stat where it controls speeds automatically, or 2) statically configure separate ones for heat. cool and fan on. There's a procedure in the manual for speed: fan on, wait 2 seconds fan off, and fan on... that is supposed to step through them, but haven't had luck getting that to work.. and stepping through the highest speed will get noticed, it will be heard. I just used my DTE power app and turned one fan on and off, leaving everything else alone. 3 trials over 5 minutes = .206kw difference from the meter... looks like my fans are using 200watts each at their set speed for 'fan on'. . I might have to ask my hvac company if there is a lower speed that fan on can be set to for 'fan on'. If I can, the fan on should have a less noticeable cold blow and it should help power consumption. Avoiding the "cold blow" phenomenon by leaving it on is a good point and has the potential to delay the next cycle. I like it. My house is problematic because its a colonial, 2 stats, each stat covering part of both floors, front and back. So if we're cooking / entertaining in the kitchen/family room... where one stat is, that area is warmer and the upstairs bedroom doesn't get what it needs. Shuffling the air a little helps, but full time obviously more. Pulling new wire upstairs for a stat or sensor is extremely difficult. I can confirm the improvements for allergy sufferers by running the fan at some regular interval. I've had fan cycling programs for ~10 years, starting on RCS TX15B stats, it was one of the reasons I got controllable stats. We all suffer from allergies in different ways at my house, and Michigan can be brutal in that department in the spring and fall. Using fan cycling on the highest allowable HEPA filter has made an incredible difference during that time. Less symptoms and complaints, less trips to the allergist, etc. The new filters I use are HEPA13 and the spec says change them yearly. I'm in my second year with these furnaces and I've been changing filters every 6 months and that's been consistent. The filters are $35 a piece if you buy them at the right time, that much money vs better health is an easy tradeoff for me too. (Got them for $28 at Menards a few weeks back) I'm going to have another look at the manual on changing the speed for 'fan on' lower if possible and measure that power usage, and look a longer fan run times during occupied times. Thanks Bill! Paul

jackman That's great. Take your time and pick a naming scheme for your devices and locations. This is also expressed using folders... both for devices and programs. Write it out and see what you like. Once you have an approach, that will make the actual ISY setup go faster. Per others' comments, please ask questions here on the forums Paul

Dan- welcome to the forum! Right clck on the first button in the list in maiin. Pick group devices Paul

Bob I've used eco bright 60 watt equivalent LEDs from home depot for a few years, but its worth trying it with no load attached. I connect new devices to a plug and outlet near the PLM and configure before installing, that way I know if the device is bad, or there is noise / signal problems in the install location Paul

Larry, good point on extending at night. that would probably help and be easily accommodated in programs. The furnaces are new with DC motors, there is actually no reason, beyond power use, to not keep them running 24x7. There is a balance between the cost of running the fan vs delaying / avoiding an HVAC cycle. Sensors are not out of the question, but that has the potential to be an expensive and time consuming project. At this point I'm continuing down the empirical path. The 3 am extension' is an idea to try. Thanks Paul

Thanks Teken, interesting. I don't have sensors everywhere which would help this. I have accurite temp/humidity sensors that I move around which help even the temp by helping set the vent openings in each room for distribution. I also turn the fans full on when its >82F outside. From an operational point of view, what sorts of things do the variables in your programs track to extend the cycle time? That's the kind of info I'm thinking about Thanks Paul

I have programs that cycle the furnaces' fans after an hour of inactivity and sensored doors windows / are closed. Currently, I have the program run the fans 15 minutes straight each hour that its in that inactive state, and idle for 45 minutes, and repeat. The purpose is to level the temp across the covered areas, and filter the air regularly. Historically this cadence has worked ok, but I'm wondering about the advantages of doing it differently? My question is not about programming, but operational...what runtime cadence works best for others that do this, eg 5 minutes every 15 minutes as opposed to 15 straight? Or something else, and why it works better. Thanks Paul

I have a number of inlinelincs and I know this is a PITA. It sounds like you've approached it the right way. Other things to try factory reset it in place, retry adding / configuring. if that doesn't work, remove the switch, factory reset it, connect to to a plug and plug it in close to the plm, see if you can add it to the isy. If so configure it. If that works, reinstall it and test it.

Give these 2 a try. I didn't have a way to test, but should be easy to try and evaluate results This program meets the first part of the requirement: If its 4:30, and its within a window of time 2 hours before sunset, turn lights on. The 2 hour window is for cases where sunset doesn't line up exactly at 4:30. I'm not sure how long before 4:30 sunset can be for your location. This could be reduced to that actual gap. Lights at 4:30 - [ID ][Parent 0001] If Time is 4:30:00PM And From Sunset - 2 hours For 2 hours Then Set 'Garage / Garage Lights' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') This second program is for times when sunset - 2 is after 4:30. The other program may decide not to execute, this one always will. The 'And' clause keeps it from executing too soon, before 4:31, but allows it to execute up till the latest sunset time. Again, I don't know what that is worst case for you, so the 3 hour, 30 minute window can be adjusted to your worst case scenario, summer solstice ( - 2 hours) The thing to note is that there will be times that the above program will turn them on, and this will also turn them on too. You won't notice it, just fyi. Lights sunset after 4:30 - [ID 0034][Parent 0001] If Time is Sunset - 2 hours And From 4:31:00PM For 3 hours and 30 minutes Then Set 'Garage / Garage Lights' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

ISY programs can be called through api. Could you call an ISY program written to accomplish that?

Forgot about that Brian. Maybe a couple 2amp phone chargers?

This is common/by design. There is about 2 watts traveling through the Insteon *dimming* powerline module when off. My LED Christmas tree did this on X10 and Insteon the same way,

That can still be a sign of impending failure. I've lost 2 over the years, and it starts something like that. After a few restarts, the link table gets smaller. I would suggest validating your link count

Welcome Felver! I have mine set to momentary B, with the standard 2 second hold time FWIW. I control it with a Keypadlinc key from the house, through a scene, and momentary B means the contacts will be closed whether the keypad turns the scene on or off. This simulates how you use a regular garage door opener, press for up, press for down. When I press the keypad key on, I want contacts l closed momentarily so the door goes up. And when I press the keypad key to go off, I want the contact closed momentarily so the door goes back down. Here is ISY wiki information on it as well It takes a little fiddling, but you will get it. Post back here if you have more questions. Paul

A restore PLM might work for a while. Having said that, I would wait till you get home to try. Paul

Chris You should be able to pull the error log from the admin console where you are. I would start there Paul