hart2hart

What do you mean by rogue? How old is it? Does it beep and flash on and off? That kinda rogue was a failing keypadlinc that I tried restore and factory reset and it would work a couple days before doing same again. I later learned it was likely failing power supply capacitors in older versions that were prone to failure.

At some point you’re going to have/need to go to some version of 5. My thought is do it while conversion is still fresh knowledge. The longer you wait, the staler information will become. I wrote a how to guide to get from 4.7 to 5.0.15 or 5.0.16 that’s on here somewhere. The very conservative planning going into creating that guide was far more time consuming than actually executing it. 2ish hours depending on how many zwave devices you have. I’d go to 5.3 but have issues with schlage deadbolts and 500 zwave. I’m contemplating replacing locks with their zwave+ versions and trying again in next month or two. It offers the future of HA.

From what you’ve told us, I agree that it sounds like the hot and neutral come into that switch box you most recently posted and it has the wires that run to the fixture. You might can replace that box with an extra deep box or consider a dual gang box and cover second half via front plate with one side covered.

Thought you said there were two switches. Only one photo or do they look the same? The difference is where power enters circuit at one of switch locations or at the fixture. You have to account for sense wires to use the existing switches.

What does other switch look like. How is is it wired?

There are multiple ways to wire a 3 way circuit. o power enters one of switches o power enters at light fixture What does other switch location look like? Is your goal to use micro module with existing manual switches or to replaces switches with Insteon dimmers?

It depends on how you use the variables but yes it can. Feel free to post what you need and we can take a look and provide feedback.

Please forgive if I’m missing something more involved for keypad buttons but... I create a scene, add a lamplinc (could be anything) as a controller, add a button on a keypadlinc as a controller and add a button on a remotelinc as a controller. If I press the button on the keypadlinc it lights up and the lamplinc comes on. If I press button on remotelinc depending on type (4 device will come on with on button or off with off button) (8 device toggle version will toggle based on what it’s last known state but within two presses turn lamplinc opposite of what it is). The kepadlinc button and lamplinc stay in sync. You can press buttons on lamplinc and keypadlinc button will follow. The top and bottom late button are a dimmer or a switch and act as such on 6 button version. On the 8 button version, The A button is a toggle for one light but the load wire can be capped and it will act like the others. When using a 6 button to control a ceiling light and fan there are very specific instructions to follow so it moves fan between off low medium and high which are a bit convoluted but it’s documented and works great. I added a program so fan off button turn fan off and then it goes off instead of being on to indicate the fan is off. ...But that’s my preference. What am I missing so I can help. Are you wanting/needing the button beside each other to be one for on and the other for off?

We were both just stating same in different terms on first item. I’m was not aware of repeats exceptions but I don’t use them often. Thanks.

Thanks so much. I just completed the process of moving to a new 16GB Industrial grade SanDisk card. Hopefully, this was good preventative maintenance that will get me to the new era when as it appears Insteon may be a NodeServer on the POLISY. I followed the instructions in the wikis and did not format the SD card and all is back. The username and password, timezone, and email server were reset to default which I think is because The ISY asked if I wanted to replaced the current config with the new config and since both were the same, I said yes. I have a strong feeling that If I'd said No then the 3 items that went back to default would have remained at correct values. Thanks @Michel Kohanim and team as always.

[mention]Michel Kohanim [/mention] I know we have beat this to death but which is correct? Direct from the wiki: “SKIP if a new SD Card Format the SD Card - you do NOT' have to format the SD Card if it's new Telnet To Your ISY Login with the admin password Issue "FS" to format the SD Card, answer the "Are you sure question" with an upper case "Y" Please note: the ISY works with both FAT 16/32, but FS function formats it specifically for use with ISY with some performance improvements so its preferred you use this method.” The wiki appears to contradict itself. It says “SKIP if a new SD Card” and “FS function formats it specifically for use with ISY with some performance improvements so its preferred you use this method.”

[mention]Teken [/mention] I ordered a second card of exact same size and brand to test the clone hypothesis.

Which in OP post the else clause is empty so outward appearance is that it stops. It will finish execution of statement in process with the exception of the Wait statement.

Point taken. I didn’t include the variables to control flow that prevents re triggers but that auto corrects without anything special at startup.

ISY trigger is not like normal program. It reevaluates the If condition during at least the Wait statements. This means your variable gate in motion closing changes values before the program ends and is caught during a wait statement. That’s why doing as Larry suggested will work around it or slightly differently-/— If some condition Then Run then program2 ... The enable and disable will eventually bite you if power loss or other ISY reboot. I never use them. Instead, I use variables so ISY will restart in a predictable state.

Direct from the wiki: “SKIP if a new SD Card Format the SD Card - you do NOT' have to format the SD Card if it's new Telnet To Your ISY Login with the admin password Issue "FS" to format the SD Card, answer the "Are you sure question" with an upper case "Y" Please note: the ISY works with both FAT 16/32, but FS function formats it specifically for use with ISY with some performance improvements so its preferred you use this method.” The wiki appears to contradict itself. It says “SKIP if a new SD cCard” and “FS function formats it specifically for use with ISY with some performance improvements so its preferred you use this method.” Which is correct? Thanks.

Sorry but one more clarification please. Are you saying that just putting card in , booting, locating ISY with finder, installing correct firmware , and restoring the backup works. Or do you have to unzip a backup and copy files to card before steps above will work?

I had dropped the idea of cloning the card and was going to follow UD standards of how to create a card after an email exchange with Michel. Then others above started listing things that this standard method did not cover as in were not in the backup when restored. Like time zone email server etc. To be clear, I’m not planning to have a backup ready to go microsd card on the shelf. I’m wanting as a preventative measure to replace the one I have (original to the ISY994) now before it starts giving less than optimal backups and/or fails.

I received one of the industrial cards today. After email with Michel via support I had planned as a preventative measure to make another backup (I’ve got hundreds from over the years), remove existing card, format new card in ISY, install correct firmware and then restore backup. Now I’m second guessing all that. [mention]Michel Kohanim [/mention] can you please clarify about all the steps others say are not in the wiki or what was in our email like location, time zone, email server. Are there any others or were the above results from other users an anomaly that should have been restored with the backup?

Which do you consider high endurance microSD cards? Just SanDisk?

Thanks for the feedback. I’ve got a spare laying in wait for wiki defined process and hoping it’s not needed. Not that it’s relevant anymore but my thought had been to get one the same size as in the ISY to prevent size related cloning. I’ve had that be an issue on RPis.

Some people got carried away with external antennas and thought the higher the gain the better. They didn’t realize high gain created signal strength that was directional. They about drove UD staff out of their minds complaining. Not speaking for UD but it may have be part of reason it was removed in new board and maybe something to do with zwave standards. I worked with new board for two weeks and could not get it reliable. I dropped back to older firmware and board and am 100% reliable again. Looked to see if their was a way to solder a connector to new board but decided I’d just stay put until Polisy with its Zwave interface arrives. Also looked at Schlage Encode but it doesn’t have a reachable local or cloud api. If that happens, I’d drop Zwave in a heartbeat.

The only way I got them to wok was with an external antenna with a slight gain on the 300 series board. I had it “pointed” at my 2 schlage deadbolts.

Where did you get PCB? Is it a prototype board? Can’t see any detail from photo. Thanks

Schlage BE469ZP? Reports changes near 100% of the time with repeaters or or zwave devices to form a mesh.