stusviews

GremLincs. They usually travel in groups of two, thus dual-band GremLincs. Also, a device can't respond to the state of a KPL button unless the button is pushed or the status of the button is a program trigger.

There's a four digit number on the white label in back of the PLM indicating the week and the year. There is not uniformity as to which pair of digits, year or week, comes first, but for most dates it's obvious.

The recommended solution is a 2-second delay in any program. But, I'm not sure that that's a solutions. I've experienced more than one All On and, lately, some partial On's. The only program with a MS as a trigger has a 26 hr and 5 min delay prior to the Then and Else statements, respectively. But, not everyone has experienced the phenomenon. Scenes whit the MS as a controller seem to not be a problem.

Scenes are immensely quicker that programs. And, if you're controlling more than one device, a scene controls them concurrently, a program controls them sequentially. Also, scenes are the only way to control individual KPL buttons. OTOH, if a condition is involved, then, in nearly every case, that can be accomplished only via a program.

A scene has two or more members. When you control a scene, you are controlling all members of the scene at once. A direct command controls only that one device.

Don't delete the old device until you add the new one to the various scenes. That's because the old device is your only record . Select the device. There should be a Membership panel on the right. Make note of which scene has the device as a controller (there can be only one) and which scenes have the device as a responder. Drag the device into the scene where it's a controller, first. Then add the device to the other scenes. You may want to test the scenes at this point. If all is well, delete the old device.

Issue dir > filename.txt and print filename.txt Or try dir /s >filename.txt to list every file on the hard drive including the folder, date, time, file size, and name.

Rob, dir /s is still the only command from a Windows machine to get an accurate file and directory/folder count

Tap the set button on any dual-band device 4 times, very rapidly. The device will start beeping and the LED will start blinking. If that doesn't happen, then you probably didn't tap fast enough. The PLM is a good candidate to start with. Observe the set LED on other dual band devices. Green indicates that the devices are communicating via RF and that they're on opposite legs of the three-wire, single-phase electric supply. Bridging has occurred. Red indicates that they're communicating via RF and are not on opposite legs. If the dual-band device's LED is not blinking, then there is no RF communication between that device and the one that initiated the test. That does not mean that the device is not communicating. Signals travel via the powerline, too. Depending on the device and when the device was manufactured, the LED may be white. Also. some responding devices have a solid LED while others blink. You'll need to check each device's Owner's Manual if you're not sure. Plug in devices are easy to start the test. I use a small screwdriver to initiate the test on SwitchLincs and Keypads. Tap the set button once to end the test. Only one pair needs to respond with green to accomplish coupling. It's a good idea to run the test in both direction (i.e., swap which device initiates the test).

R = E2 ÷ P A high wattage resistor is needed, at least 1.5 x P

Your test results suggests that the receptacles are not only on different circuits, but that they're on opposite legs of the three-wire, single-phase electric supply. It's a good idea to run the 4-tap/beacon test on your dual-band devices. And, yes, it's entirely possible to get a shock from the neutral, most especially between two neutral wires that were originally connected together.

Brian, I agree. That's why I linked to the 18 watt bulb. There are many more greater than 21 watt 24 volt bulbs, but I didn't find any with a candelabra base. BTW, if the actual voltage is less than 24 volts, then the power will be reduced as well. 18W @ 24V = 12W @ 16V = 9W @ 12V

Dragging devices into scenes is visual. Beats entering the device's ID.

That's really good. You may end up preferring the light to the chime all the time

There are lots of 24V bulbs that draw more than 21 watts. An appropriate socket is also needed. Candelabra is easiest to find and work with. Here's an 18 watt bulb that may work, but certainly two in parallel will.

Until and if you get this "fixed," here's a workaround: If F button pressed Then query SwitchLinc

Connect the chime to NC on the I/O Linc and the bulb to NO if you want the chime to be the default as shown. If you prefer that the light is the default, then reverse which connects to NC an NO.

USPS, UPS, FedEx, OnTrac to name a few. My neighbors and god kids to name a couple more.

I'm currently running three Synchrolincs, each calibrated separately according to the instructions linked to by Paul (#3). After calibrating and testing (i.e., turning the load on and off), all scenes/links were created using the ISY.

Use a 24 volt bulb such as this one to be a load instead of the chime. Candelabra sockets are easy to find. You can also use an I/O Linc to switch between the two.

What is the voltage of the bell transformer (or chime)?

Do you have any devices that show ! or 1101?

DO NOT DELETE THE PLM!!! Start anew following the steps linked to above..

What's the result if you disconnect the load--restore device, write updates to device--and test the switch from the iSY with the load still disconnected? The goal is to determine if the load itself is causing the difficulty.

Do you meant that the switch doesn't work even manually? Or do you mean control by the ISY stopped working? If the latter, then test the switch with no load connected.