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stusviews

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Everything posted by stusviews

  1. When you control a device, only that device responds, not any of its links. If it were otherwise, then you could end up in an infinite loop. The correct only way to control two (or more) linked devices is to control the scene that includes those devices.
  2. You have one of the earlier PLMs, manufactured in 2009. Due to its age it's likely the the PLM has failed. Another consideration is the dimmer. The 99i is also an older device. It does not support a lot of the newer devices, so if you recently purchased the dimmer, that explains why you haven't been able to add it to the ISY. You may want to call UDI to see if you can obtain a new ISY at the upgrade price. You'll will probably also need a PLM (check Amazon). BTW, I have a functioning in-use 2412S PLM from 08 powering a 99i.
  3. Good thinking. You have an older PLM. Some posters have indicated that their PLM failed (or partially failed) at about 2+ years. Remove the PLM. There will be a label indicating: 2413S Vx.y abcd What is x.y? What is abcd? It's raining here, too
  4. The 2334 is for dimmable loads only. The dimmer is available in both 6- ans 8-button configurations. The 2487S is for non-dimmable loads or in situations where you don't want dimming, for example, exterior flood lights. The 2487S can be reconfigured to be an 8-button device.
  5. Do you have other Insteon devices that are functioning? For the devices with the !, what is the result of Write Updates to Device. Remove one of the problem devices. Ensure that the connections are secure, that is, remove the wire nuts and twist the wires together in the clockwise direction using a pair of pliers. Retry Write Updates to Device.
  6. We use the original garage door remotes, a Homelink controller built into my wife's car, Insteon KPL buttons, a Mini Remote, a RemoteLinc and ISY programs. The kit does not work with all garage door openers. Sometimes, there's a workaround.
  7. The most common causes of the ! symbol is that the device was removed, defective or has a wiring problem. The first step is to remove the wall plate to verify that the Insteon ID on the device and the ISY are identical. What did you find?
  8. When you control a device from the ISY, only that specific device responds, but none of its links do. That's good. Otherwise, you could easily create an infinite loop. Here's how: Switch A controls switch B and switch B controls switch A, a typical 3-way configuration. So, you turn on switch A which tells switch B to turn on which tells switch A to turn on which tells switch B ... The correct way to control the devices is use only the scene.
  9. Do the devices have a ! next to them? Was the Insteon network in place when you moved in?
  10. Beep is available from the option box to the right of the device (along with on, off, etc.)
  11. That's the purpose of a scene. One (or more) device controls other devices without being wired to them. What's the indication that the ISY is not communicating with those devices?
  12. KeypadLinc dimmers have existed ever since the inception of KeypadLincs. It's really important that you determine if the outlet (receptacle) that the transformer plugs into is switched or not. Turn off the KeypadLinc. Does the receptacle where you plug the transformer into still have power? Also, describe the scene of concern.
  13. Any Insteon dimmer should get uswitched power. If the KeypadLinc is/was supplying power to the transformer, then you should not install the dimmer as described because the dimmer would be getting power through the KeypadLinc. If the KeypadLinc is supplying power to the transformer and it's not a dimmer, then you should replace it with a KeypadLinc dimmer.
  14. Aha, I remember that switch. It's a non-Insteon, non-X10 dimmer designed to match the decor of an Insteon SwitchLinc without the electronics, hence a lower cost. It was discontinued a few years ago. The switch itself does not have an Insteon ID.
  15. "What is the best practice for updating all these devices? Do I need to connected them one by one and do a restore PLM each time?" seems to imply doing it all in one sitting. If that's what blueman2 meant, then I was offering an alternative. If not, then my suggestion can be ignored
  16. Are you saying that the switch that controls power to the transformer is a KeypadLinc?
  17. Once again, if the transformer is not designed to be dimmed, you may destroy the dimmer, the transformer or both. You also run the risk of a fire. A label will indicate if the transformer is meant to be dimmed. If the transformer is dimmable and the switch controls power to the transformer, then all you need to do is replace the switch with the dimmer.
  18. The code does not permit two wires under one screw. The correct procedure is the run a short length of wire from each terminal and wire-nut the three wires. So, you'll have three white wires, 1) a neutral wire, 2) a SwitchLinc wire, and 3) a short wire to the terminal; two black wires, 1) line and 2) SwitchLinc and the red wire from the SwitchLinc to transformer line terminal.
  19. The 2470D is not an Insteon device. It's not even a Smarthome product. The 2470D is a Smart Home switch. That's an entirely different brand.
  20. That's another argument in favor of installing a hard-wired bridge. Without one, extended messages are single-band.
  21. But the removed devices won't. They'll have to be restored one-by-one. Why not wait until you use/need them?
  22. Which specific SwitchLinc dimmers? No Insteon device that's designed to control a load needs to have the load connected to function.
  23. Electric devices require line and neutral. The line is switched so that the device can be turned on and off (or dimmed). Connect the dimmer load (red) wire to the line side of the transformer.
  24. If the transformer is not expressly designed for dimming using a leading-edge dimmer, then you may destroy the dimmer, the transformer or both. A fire may ensue.

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