stusviews

The are no fine tuned X10 or INSTEON powerline filters. In fact, the band is so broad and the powerline frequencies of X10 and INSTEON are so close, that a filer for one is as effective as a filter for the other. BTW, the filtering is purposely kept wide to inhibit even a close signal from being misinterpreted. That's because the filter has two purposes. It blocks noise that's close to the signal frequency from escaping (signal stomper) and it keeps signals out (signal sucker).

http://www.thehomeautomationstore.com/x10-pro/x10-pro-specialty-devices/x10-pro-filters/xpnr-noise-reducer.html

An ISY scene has one or more devices that are controllers of the scene and one or more devices that are responders. BTW, if a device/button is a controller, then it's also a responder. Here's a typical scene: BR Keypad C BR LampLinc 1 BR LampLinc 2 where red indicates a controller and blue indicates a responder. Try to find the button (controller) or responder. When you click on the device.button, it will reveal the scene(s) that it's a member of.

Yes. I keep one or two around in case a signal sucker or stomper arrives, is moved, is discovered or something electronic deteriorates.

If all the neon lights are similar, then it's a good idea to filter them all.

I use the ISY to change the Mini Remote mode. The Mini Remote needs to be put in linking mode before the changes occur.

Where are you looking?

Can you control the outside light from the SwitchLinc?

Can you identify which device is/was supposed to control the outside spot light? Briefly, when attempting to get the ISY to recognize a device, that device is put into "linking" mode, unless the ID is known in which case the ISY places the device in linking mode. As long as I'm at it, here are a few other terms you should be familiar with: A controller is a device that remotely controls one or more other devices. The devices being controlled are responders. In other words, a device is linked as a controller or it is linked as a responder. Device that are linked together are called scenes. When two devices control each other, as in a 3-way configuration, the devices are cross-linked.

If the outbuilding has the same power source as the main building and the main building is bridged, then so is the outbuilding. You'll still need a dual-band device in the outbuilding to receive the RF signal from the hidden door sensor. It can be a dual purpose device such as a SwitchLinc or KeypadLinc or it can be a Range Extender.

Unplug the all the loads. Does the SwitchLinc respond correctly to the Keypad when there is no load?

Is the SwitchLinc a relay (On/Off) or a dimmer? Unplug the all the loads. Does the SwitchLinc respond correctly to the Keypad when there is no load?

How did you determine that the split, single-phase electric supply is not coupled. If you have at least two dual-band devices, then there exits a possibility that that the opposite legs are bridged.

http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/ISY994%20Series%20Network%20Security%20Guide.pdf

What's the load that's connected to the non-responding SwitchLinc?

That's a great retrofit remedy. But I'm guessing that the OP would prefer to have all contingencies in place. For example, we originally installed a 4-zone panel, but used only two zones. Then we needed a third for only one room.

Opening a damper is useless if cooling (or heating) is not called for because nothing is flowing through the ducts. I'm not sure why you would want to shut off air to a zone while keeping the cooled (or heated) air blowing, but damper actuators can be individually controlled using an I/O Linc (or INSTEON relay if it's a line voltage actuator).

No, but I can tell you about them The thermostats are INSTEON which are not heat pump compatible. But they replaced Venstar thermostats which are. The dampers are standard dampers, opened or closed. The zone panel is a Honewell Totalzone. But, there's nothing special about the system other that that it's under ISY control.

It's not possible to separate on and off in a scene. I don't know if two separate on programs would be any faster than an Or statement.

Log on to the HTML interface via nearly any browser.

We have the front half, the rear half of our home and the media room each zoned separately. One zone panel, three thermostats. Voila! Each zone is also controlled by the ISY. Edit: The separate zoning for the media room was added later, no additional dampers needed, only a change in wiring. I had already installed a 4-zone panel.

The wireless thermostat would need to be completely independent of the wired thermostat to be able to control the dampers AND head pump separately unless both zones are always "on." Otherwise, how could it control heat pump?

No matter which thermostat(s) you use, if you want the temperature in one area to be different from the temperature in another area, then you need a zoned HVAC system with a sensor, usually a thermostat, in each distinct area. BTW, zoned systems adjust dampers for each zone independently.

The camera's video

Configuration, Clock. Is Daylight Saving selected? Is NTP enabled? Is the an NTP Server entry?