stusviews

The purpose of the INSTEON LED bulb is to be able to control unswitched lighting or lighting where the switch is inaccessible or inconvenient (e.g., behind furniture) or even in a switched lamp to enable remote control. In any case, it's not meant to be controlled manually. Also, whenever you use the ISY to send a command to a device, only that device responds to the command, not any of its controllers nor any of its responders.

Mine go to a municipal recycler

An active coupler, and a repeater is active, can interfere with the INSTEON signal. (Not all do.) What is the result if you remove the coupler and turn on a 220/240V appliance?

1. http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/production/ISY%20User%20Guide%204.2.8.pdf 2. Devices that need filtering are usually not discovered until the filtering is needed.That is, you have some sort of communication failure. 4. Electricity is provided to homes in North America as a split, single-phase electric supply. The voltage between the opposite leg/sides of the transformer is 220/240VAC. Those legs are commonly, but incorrectly referred to as phases. For the most part, dual-band devices don't need Range Extenders, but if an RF only device is out of range, then a Range Extender is called for. They can even solve some communication difficulties. Again, there's no way to tell in advance. 6. How will anyone else control your INSTEON devices? Some caveats: Don't plug-in or power any INSTEON device from a surge suppressor. Keep known noise makers on a separate circuit. Not all CFL and LED bulbs are equal. Some will behave badly when on an INSTEON dimmer.

As I indicated, every line powered (110/120VAC) item in you home requires one line wire and one neutral wire. That includes all lighting and appliances and electronics. (Some devices are 220/240VAC and don't need a neutral.) A standard switch is not powered, it's only a circuit interrupter. But HA switches are powered devices and, therefore, do need a neutral. (Some HA devices "steal" power from the load and don't need a neutral, but they're designed for incandescent loads only.) You should get a mutlimeter for testing. Even the least expensive model will suffice. You may be doing some testing live. But you can connect the meter with the power off and read the meter after you turn power back on. And there's a bunch of tests that can be done without power.

Yes, the filter is installed inside the electric box. It may not fit with a SwitchLinc. The usual placement is the fixture box. In that case, you should install one in each fixture box that supplies a neon light. BTW, I rarely get personal on a forum, but this brings back a vivid memory. When I was a youngster, my dad was foreman of a neon sign shop and, for one birthday, he had a congratulatory sign made. And there was my name up in flashing neon lights

Or try selecting the 2440 from the drop-down list.

You're unlikely to find an unbiased opinion on this or any forum. That said, there is no doubt that the Pro provides a greater level of security. Here's some reading about the ISY and security: http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/ISY994%20Series%20Network%20Security%20Guide.pdf Regarding your difficulty involving electricity, briefly, electricity is provided to homes in North America as a split, single-phase electric supply. Specifically, the secondary of the power transformer (big gray object on power poles) is center tapped. The voltage between the opposite leg/sides of the transformer is 220/240VAC. The voltage between each leg and the center tap is 110/120VAC. The center tap is the neutral. The opposite legs are the lines. All line voltage devices require one line and a neutral wire. If a device is switched, then only the line is interrupted, so a switch requires only a line wire and a switch return or load wire. The only way to tell is to remove, but not disconnect, the switch. If there are only two wires in the switch box (disregard any ground wire), then there is not a neutral wire. Not to worry, there is a workaround (except that it requires the purchase of two devices instead of only one). If there are more than two wires (again, disregarding any ground wire), then there may be a neutral wire present. If you are comfortable changing a switch or ceiling fixture and can rewire a lamp, then you can install virtually any INSTEON device yourself. Oh, the endorsement. I have more that 100 INSTEON device installed that control indoor and outdoor lighting, motorized gates, garage doors, HVAC, entertainment media, window coverings, cameras, phone and doorbell indicators, even more.

The are no fine tuned X10 or INSTEON powerline filters. In fact, the band is so broad and the powerline frequencies of X10 and INSTEON are so close, that a filer for one is as effective as a filter for the other. BTW, the filtering is purposely kept wide to inhibit even a close signal from being misinterpreted. That's because the filter has two purposes. It blocks noise that's close to the signal frequency from escaping (signal stomper) and it keeps signals out (signal sucker).

http://www.thehomeautomationstore.com/x10-pro/x10-pro-specialty-devices/x10-pro-filters/xpnr-noise-reducer.html

An ISY scene has one or more devices that are controllers of the scene and one or more devices that are responders. BTW, if a device/button is a controller, then it's also a responder. Here's a typical scene: BR Keypad C BR LampLinc 1 BR LampLinc 2 where red indicates a controller and blue indicates a responder. Try to find the button (controller) or responder. When you click on the device.button, it will reveal the scene(s) that it's a member of.

Yes. I keep one or two around in case a signal sucker or stomper arrives, is moved, is discovered or something electronic deteriorates.

If all the neon lights are similar, then it's a good idea to filter them all.

I use the ISY to change the Mini Remote mode. The Mini Remote needs to be put in linking mode before the changes occur.

Where are you looking?

Can you control the outside light from the SwitchLinc?

Can you identify which device is/was supposed to control the outside spot light? Briefly, when attempting to get the ISY to recognize a device, that device is put into "linking" mode, unless the ID is known in which case the ISY places the device in linking mode. As long as I'm at it, here are a few other terms you should be familiar with: A controller is a device that remotely controls one or more other devices. The devices being controlled are responders. In other words, a device is linked as a controller or it is linked as a responder. Device that are linked together are called scenes. When two devices control each other, as in a 3-way configuration, the devices are cross-linked.

If the outbuilding has the same power source as the main building and the main building is bridged, then so is the outbuilding. You'll still need a dual-band device in the outbuilding to receive the RF signal from the hidden door sensor. It can be a dual purpose device such as a SwitchLinc or KeypadLinc or it can be a Range Extender.

Unplug the all the loads. Does the SwitchLinc respond correctly to the Keypad when there is no load?

Is the SwitchLinc a relay (On/Off) or a dimmer? Unplug the all the loads. Does the SwitchLinc respond correctly to the Keypad when there is no load?

How did you determine that the split, single-phase electric supply is not coupled. If you have at least two dual-band devices, then there exits a possibility that that the opposite legs are bridged.

http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/ISY994%20Series%20Network%20Security%20Guide.pdf

What's the load that's connected to the non-responding SwitchLinc?

That's a great retrofit remedy. But I'm guessing that the OP would prefer to have all contingencies in place. For example, we originally installed a 4-zone panel, but used only two zones. Then we needed a third for only one room.

Opening a damper is useless if cooling (or heating) is not called for because nothing is flowing through the ducts. I'm not sure why you would want to shut off air to a zone while keeping the cooled (or heated) air blowing, but damper actuators can be individually controlled using an I/O Linc (or INSTEON relay if it's a line voltage actuator).