stusviews

You can't set latching the 10 seconds. Latching either stays on or off. Only the momentary option can be set to a particular time. Correct any errors: The NO and common from the I/O Linc are connected ti where the original switch connected. The original switch is connected to the I/O Linc sense terminals. When you turn on the switch, the green sense LED is lit and the white relay LED is lit, but the fireplace doesn't turn on. Try this: turn the switch off (the green LED is unlit). Tap the set button. What is the result? Can you hear the relay click?

The 5V supply has a very low capacity, only 10mA. It's output, not input. I use it drive a piezoelectric buzzer, see: Insteon BuzzLinc. The input (sense) requires a dry contact switch, such as the aforementioned relay. Any voltage applied will destroy the sensing circuitry. But the built-in relay can be used to switch up to 5 amps @ 30 volts, AC or DC. A difficulty is getting the thermostat to control an Insteon device. That can be accomplished by wiring a 24VAC coil relay to the thermostat's common and W (heat) terminals and connecting the relay contacts to the sense terminals on an I/O Linc. The connection the the thermostat terminals is probably easiest to accomplish at the HVAC control panel.

Control only works when the device itself is operated. If you want to trigger a program on the change of state when the device is remotely controlled, then use Status.

For both the firmware and the UI?

Which Honeywell thermostat, Z-Wave, WiFi, other? And which outlet do you want to control. Z-Wave, Insteon, other?

As long as the battery use is above zero, it matters. BTW, my name doesn't include @. Not anywhere.

It makes sense if the PLM is or has failed.

Yes, if it's an Insteon thermostat and Insteon outlet. But the thermostat can directly control the outlet. An I/O Linc is not needed.

Honeywell and Trane are entirely different companies. Trane a subsidiary of Ingersoll Rand, Honeywell is entirely owned by Honeywell International, Inc.

It's only a useless distraction if you aren't using it

Older than dinosaurs. And, yes, I've acted as my own lawyer--and won--more than once. I also spent 4 years in the USAF, was a specialist in tuning multiple carburetors and had a stint as a professional photographer. Even more. Actually, I'm 78.7 and right now I'm getting ready to party Oh, my post-baccalaureate degree is from UCLA (after completing my under graduate degree from Uppsala University in Sweden). Wow, I've had a busy life. Still at it. Edit: may as well mention that a few days ago my (2nd) wife and I celebrated our anniversary--you probably guessed it--two decades. Disclaimer: not everything was sequential.

I'm a code enforcer having been in the business for more than two decades and seeing the damage and harm out-of-compliance wiring can cause. Such wiring can make a mountain into a molehill! I'll admit it's not common, but neither is it worth the risk. You suggestion, nonetheless, is valid Edit: my response is in relation only to Scottmichaelj's post #22.

I use write updates for leak sensors, door sensors and open/close as well as motion sensors. My first use was when I replaced the PLM. I haven't tried with remotes because they're easily placed in linking mode.

Leaving the Motion Sensor program enabled uses a considerable amount of energy and will noticeably shorten the battery life. Sending an On of Off is instantaneous, updating takes some time. All that time the battery is being used. All my sensor update programs are disabled for that reason.

http://www.universal-devices.com/contact-support/

That's true. It's always a good idea to exclude a Z-wave device before including it. Excluding it twice is even better.

Are you using an Amazon skill to address the thermostat?

Do the thermostats show the current temperature when viewed from the Administrative Console?

It's likely that all SoundDock use the same standby circuitry. Note that the SoundDock 10 specifies that it won't go into standby if an iPhone is in the dock, that's probably true of the SoundDock II as well.

"Latest firmware" is meaningless. Do you mean the latest release candidate or the latest official release? And what about the UI? Both matter.

You can use this links calculator to estimate the number of link in your Insteon network. There's no way that I know of to compensate for the different counts you'll get, but there shouldn't be either a great discrepancy in multiple tests nor a number that's vastly lower than the estimate.

Replacing the PLM initiated the idea to write the programs, so absolutely yes

Use an Insteon outlet to power the I/O Linc and schedule the outlet. That way, you'd still have access if you needed to open the garage door during the off schedule.

A search indicates that the Echo and 2nd generation Echo Dot does, in fact, have Bluetooth audio input capability.

I wrote programs for each of my battery powered sensors that updates the device each time they're activated. For motion sensors, pass by them; for window/door sensors, open or close the window.door; for leak sensors, tap the button. The leak sensor is the most difficult, but you only need the tap the set button and not hold it. The programs are disable to save the battery and enabled as needed. Here's on example: IN Laundry Sensor If Control 'IN / Devices / IN Laundry Room-Dry' is switched On Then Set 'IN / Devices / IN Laundry Room-Dry' Write Device Updates Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')