PhanTomiZ

I can't say for sure that all four of your leak sensors have weak batteries, but the possibility is there. Is the manufacturer date the same? Were they all purchased from the same vendor at the same time? I have had three heartbeat devices skip a heartbeat or two in the last month. Two were from leak sensors and one from an open/close sensor installed in a garage during the cold winter months. All three had very weak batteries. Replaced the batteries and heartbeat fixed. Easy enough to check if the batteries are low. PhanTomiZ

Hello You shouldn't have to do this manually. In the system tab, you should already have your http and https ports set up for the ISY . You should have had to port forward these ports already if you have had access in the past. When your ip address changes, you'll need to use the new ip address sent to you by your Pi along with these ports already define in your ISY. I use NOIP.com DDNS. Free if you renew every month. They send you an email to remind you to do so. Takes the step away from having to enter the new ip address as it is kept track of by NOIP. You also need to enter the NOIP host information in your router. Now all you need to "ever" do is enter your host name with the ISY port. E.g.. https://myhostname.ddns.net/web/udajax.htm#/nodes/devices (this bring me to the screen where it asks for user and pw)

How about this... First create a scene with the Tstat cool ctrl and your on\off module as a responder. Set Tstat to cool mode. Now either through a program or manually set setpoint temperature of the Tstat to 80. When the temperature hits 80 or more the module will come on. When the Tstat hits 79 the module will shut off. I use this method to control an oil filled space heater in my son's basement bedroom by using a motion sensor to adjust the setpoint temperature depending on occupancy. Hope this helps PhanTomiZ P.s. Admin console values may not change, but the operation of the scene will work. In other words, your on\off module will cycle when temperatures go from 79 to 80 and 80 to 79, regardless of what the admin console is displaying.

My experience with the wireless TStat is that it works as it should, but in the admin console or the UDAjax, it doesn't always show the correct state. For example: If I query the wireless TStat, I loose the Heat/Cool State and the Status (both blank). I can see that the Fan Setting, Humidity, Thermostat Mode and Heat Setpoint. No matter, even if the admin console and UDAjax are not updated instantly, the TStat functions correctly. In the winter I use it for heat with an On/Off module connected to an oil filled heater and in the summer I use the same On/Off module for my dehumidifier. With heat I use a scene and with dehumidifier, I use a program. Now as far as the wired TStat is concerned, it updates almost instantly when queried. BTW, I also have a wired TStat fed with a 24VAC wall wart and it also updates almost instantly. Hope that helps, PhanTomiZ P.S. There is something that will fix the updates, but I don't recall what I did. I may have either cycled power the ISY or the TStat. Either way, eventually it ends up going back to the very slow updates. I just queried my wireless TStat about 30 minutes ago and it still hasn't updated!!!

Hi, I have 1 Foscam FI9900. I used a shielded #18 AWG grounding the shield at the source. The run is about 40'. No problem with power, but because the microwave is between it and my router, I loose the feed when someone is using the microwave. My later fix to this was to add an Athena EX Wifi extender. Family members were complaining about dead spots throughout the house, so I killed two birds with one Wifi Extender. http://www.ampedwireless.com/products/re2600m.html PhanTomiZ

Hello, I use a State Variable and trigger my specific programs from this variable instead of the Open/Close Sensor Node. I asked this question not too long ago. Here it is: https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/22368-openclose-sensor-status-after-power-outage/?hl=%2Bopen+%2Bclose+%2Bsensor+%2Bstatus And if you have the Z-Wave here is a little more info: https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/22394-z-wave-openclose-sensor-query/?hl=%2Bopen+%2Bclose+%2Bsensor+%2Bstatus

Candles!!!!! That is old school.

Don't really want to move the PLM to the UPS. For now I'll use the State Variable to keep track of it. When an outage does present itself, I won't trigger any of the devices and do as the post in the above message...Sit in the dark and wait for the lights to come back on...

Wow!!!!!! If the power goes off. I sit in the dark until it comes back on...

I guess if I were to move my PLM to my UPS (both ISY and PLM on UPS), then this would keep track of Open/Close sensor status when the Main Power is lost or at least until my UPS is exhausted, in which case, I'd be back to square one. My last power outage did exhaust my UPS, so no further ahead.

I see the dilemma. I wonder if there is a Z-Wave Open/Close sensor that would be a better solution? Any battery operated device that could be queried? My door locks are battery operated and can be queried for status. Thanks PhanTomiZ

I have my ISY on a UPS. Same one I use for my computer. PLM is not because of powerline communications. Because the last state is not remembered, I will set up a State variable and the appropriate "init" statement for the affected windows/doors to keep track of whether they are opened or closed. A little more work, but I think this may be a good work around. Thanks, PhanTomiZ

Hi, My electricity where I live is pretty reliable. I only get an outage twice a year and usually a few brown outs. A few days ago I had a full blown power outage that lasted 45 minutes (not complaining). When my ISY rebooted and after my query all program finished, I noticed that the status of my Open/Close sensors show up blank (No status). Even after my Heartbeat program runs (25 hours), no status. The HB node does show status though. Even after two days, still no ON/OFF status. It seems as long as I manually trigger these open/close sensors they will show status and all is fine. The problem I'm having and I've only just noticed this; I'm using the Open/Close sensors on my windows to trigger my air conditioning. (In the past I've had family members open windows while the air conditioner was running). The idea was to shut the air conditioner off when any of these windows are open. My programs worked very well until the power outage. Here is my scenario: it's been unseasonably cooler here in August and the windows have been open most of the month. Then two days ago the power outage. Then, when the power came back on, no status for Open/Close sensor, as far as my program is concerned it sees an Off condition even though the status is blank and the air conditioner was enabled. If I go to each window and trigger each sensor in my program, all goes back to normal. Questions: 1) Is this normal for these sensors to not show status after an ISY reboot or power loss? Should it not show last state of device rather than being blank? 2) Would there be a work around to this problem by adding some lines of program? Any insight would be appreciated, PhanTomiZ Using V4.62 UI and Firmware

Hello, I'm having similar issues with having to drill down to get rid of 'Failed Communicating with device' alerts in the admin console. In my situation, I will get these alerts/errors when the Admin Console is already running and my Z-Wave Kwikset locks are triggered through programs. Doesn't happen all the time, but when it does the errors can get as deep as 10 at a time. Meanwhile the locks are running through the programs without faulting. These are the only Z-Wave battery operated devices linked to my ISY. I have Z Wave Aeotec Multisensors installed via USB power within 10' of each door acting as repeaters and I'm using V.4.54 Z-Wave 4.55. PhanTomiZ

Quickly went out to the garage and disconnected the Load (consisting of the 4' fluorescent fixture and 2 60w bulbs). Pulled the tab on the KPL, waited 10 seconds and pushed it back in. Lights came back on the KPL and it's back alive and now communicating. Checked the output voltage of the Load of the KPL and looks good. Tomorrow I will connect the 2 60w lights, disconnect the fluorescent fixture and see if it still outputs enough to power 120 w. Hopefully no extended damage to the output Triac/SCR... Thanks for the glimmer of hope PhanTomiZ

I finally installed my KPL 8 button dimmer in my garage. I have 2 incandescent 60 watt bulbs and one 4' fluorescent light fixture. I had very good intentions of disconnecting it, but it looked like it was working good, so I thought a few days wouldn't hurt and I would get around to disconnecting it next week. Well, I woke this morning to " Can't communicate with KPL, please check connections". I know the KPL had switched the lights on and off about 100 times in 5 days. Is it possible running a 4' fluorescent light fixture from a KPL dimmer could damage the KPL? I thought, if anything the fixture could burn out, but didn't think I could fry my KPL in 5 days. Any thoughts? Thanks PhanTomiZ

After reading this post, I did the Z-Wave / Tools / Backup. Where does this backup get saved?

Hi, I thought I would let you know how I installed my Triggerlinc Open/Close sensor on my slider windows. Looking at the window, I couldn't find a location on the window where I would only need one Triggerlinc. I could do it with two, but that would be wasteful. Every combination that I could think of didn't work because the magnet portion of the sensor was too thick and the distance between the two sections of windows was too thin. The fix was to open the magnet section of the sensor package and remove the cylindrical magnet. I then used Gorilla brand two sided tape (stickiest two sided tape I've ever use) and installed it to the frame of the outside window (just fit); the Triggerlinc "transceiver" part of the package was easily stuck to the inside window frame. If there are other ways of achieving this on double slider windows, I'd like to know. If you have another method, I'd also be interested. PhanTomiz P.S. Not sure why the pictures are all rotated 90°. Hopefully you get the idea...

Crazy thing about rates, is our political leader in Ontario, in her infinite wisdom, decided it to be a good idea to decrease hydro (electricity) cost by 25% as another election boost for her party (personal re-election hopes???). Heck, our electricity is already subsidized now by the government and unfortunately it will be my kids and theirs who will have to shoulder this burden in the future!!!! Anyhow, I just heard the news about SF power outage. That is one way to save on your electric bill. With electricity costs so high, the abundance of sun in your region and the decreasing cost of solar, doesn't this sound like a great alternative? A PowerWall couldn't hurt either? PhanTomiZ

Hey Blueman2, This doesn't answer your question, but can give you some idea on how to tackle the problem. In my municipality, we have T.O.U. (Time of Use). Basically like you, I pay more for high and mid peak times. I found the easiest was to create a Variable setting times for Winter and Summer T.O.U. Then when I have a program I would only like to be enabled depending on T.O.U., I use this variable at the top of the program. I also have a variable for Winter and Summer I use for my furnace/air conditioning and bathroom exhaust fan programs. Time of Use Summer Select Times - [iD 00B1][Parent 00BE][Run At Startup] If $Summer_Season is 1 And On Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu From 7:05:00PM To 6:55:00AM (next day) Or On Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri From 9:05:00AM To 10:55:00AM (same day) Or On Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri From 5:05:00PM To 6:05:00PM (same day) Or On Fri From 7:05:00PM To 6:55:00AM (3 days later) Then Wait 1 second $Time_of_Use_Summer = 1 $Time_of_Use_Summer Init To 1 Else Wait 1 second $Time_of_Use_Summer = 0 $Time_of_Use_Summer Init To 0 Summer May 1 - October 31 - TOU from Hydro: On Peak 18 cents per kWh - When demand for electricity is highest (Weekdays: 11 AM - 5 PM) Mid Peak 13.2 cents per kWh - When demand for electricity is moderate (Weekdays: 7 AM - 11 AM AND 5 PM - 7 PM) Off-Peak 8.7 cents per kWh - When demand for electricity is lowest (Weekdays: 7 PM to 7 AM, Weekends and Holidays – 24 hours, All Day) Time of Use Winter Times - [iD 00B2][Parent 00BE] If $Winter_Season is 1 And ( On Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu From 7:05:00PM To 6:55:00AM (next day) Or On Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri From 11:05:00AM To 1:55:00PM (same day) Or On Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri From 3:05:00PM To 4:55:00PM (same day) Or On Fri From 7:05:00PM To 6:55:00AM (3 days later) ) Then Wait 1 second $Time_of_Use_Winter = 1 $Time_of_Use_Winter Init To 1 Else Wait 1 second $Time_of_Use_Winter = 0 $Time_of_Use_Winter Init To 0 Winter Nov 1 to April 30 - TOU from Hydro: On Peak 17.5 cents per kWh - When demand for electricity is highest (Weekdays: 7-11 AM and 5-7 PM) Mid Peak 12.8 cents per kWh - When demand for electricity is moderate (Weekdays: 11 AM – 5PM) Off-Peak 8.3 cents per kWh - When demand for electricity is lowest (Weekdays: 7 PM to 7 AM, Weekends and Holidays – 24 hours, All Day)

Hi, Just upgraded to ISY Pro version online and restarted my ISY(finally). Now all nodes are showing up when linking my devices. Thanks to everyone who responded PhanTomiZ

Ok, I have now determined I will need to upgrade to the Pro version. Is this a firmware/hardware upgrade or firmware only? I have the ISY 994iZW. Any special installation instructions? Thanks again PhanTomiZ

This may work for you. I'm not sure what access you have with the ISY, but it is supposed to be able to monitor power used...I have a few in the mail at the moment, so I can't tell you much more, yet. http://aeotec.com/z-wave-plug-in-switch/1477-technical-specifications.html

Hi, I started to respond to your message and decided to reread it a second time. "Two Different Brightness Levels" was the important part of the sentence I missed. When I was hitting the two buttons, I really wasn't paying attention to the levels of brightness. You are correct in saying that there are two. Saying this, the levels are very close. I was expecting the difference to be like "dim" and "bright". Also with these KPLs, as Teken noted, when I hit any of the buttons they flicker as if to show network traffic. Mimicking the "RX" Led light on the ISY. So the problem with "backlight level" or "LED Brightness" is resolved. Not necessarily to my liking, but nonetheless resolved. Thanks PhanTomiZ

Yes. I realized that I may have interchanged the terminology. It is indeed the "LED Brightness" in which I cannot adjust.