PhanTomiZ

I would also agree with Techman and Teken. My in-laws have "Lifeline". Here is the website https://www.lifeline.ca/en/ It works, but it is subscription based with a monthly fee. PhanTomiZ

Hey, If you're patient, you can get them on ebay and at a good price when you purchase 2 or 3... Be forewarned that I've found the temperature to be different for all of my sensors. What I mean by that is that I spent a few days, with each, verifying and adjusting the temperature offset. Humidity for my purposes has been somewhat accurate (I use one in my bathroom which controls my exhaust fan). That same one lets me know using LUX whether the light is on or off. Haven't used the UV detection yet as I don't have any outside. Also, they are all on USB power too. Overall, I'd say I'm satisfied with all of them. What would make them better is if they were Insteon and could be included in Scenes would be great.... PhanTomiZ

Yes, right in the freezer...

V4.54...

daved I use the Aeotec Multisensor 6 to monitor my two freezers. My freezers will go to -20 F. ISY If statements range from -40 F to 140 F. Here are the manufacturers Specs: Model number: ZW100 Power Supply: USB DC 5V or battery power(2×CR123A batteries, 3V, 1500mAh). Operating Temperature: 0 to 40 . Measured Temperature Range: -10 to 50 . Accuracy: ±0.5 . Humidity Range: 20%RH to 80%RH. Accuracy: ±5%RH (at 25 ). Lighting: 0 LUX to 30000 LUX. Max Motion Sensitivity: 5 metres. Water Proofing: IP20. Wireless Range: Up to 500feet/150 metres outdoors. ebay has them for a reasonable price if you're patient...

I just got around to checking this TSTat once again and the configurations are still good (no changes). For piece of mind, I did a factory reset on the unit. I will check again in a month and then again during the next winter season. Thanks PhanTomiZ

Just read your response because I forgot to "Follow this Topic". I will try this today. Thanks...

I use a variant of your suggestion with the I/O linc. Instead of using the N/O contacts (these are already in use for my computer reset setup), I use the GND and Sense terminals in which I connect the Open/Close sensor...

Hi, Finally got finished with my Power Loss Detection method...Here it is, but first my findings with the other methods I tried... First and second methods I tried both worked fine and had one common denominator; it relied on the status of my computer (on 24 hours for Blue Iris). Read on as you'll find, for me, this is not to be relied on. First method is to use my IP Cameras. I use Blue Iris and I'm able to send a web command through the Blue Iris Watchdog routine using REST to change an ISY State Watchdog Variable which I created. All I needed to do is monitor the watchdog variable of 3 or 4 of my most reliable IP Cameras and I would know if utility power was lost. Computer is needed to send this REST command to the ISY. Second method is to use my CyberPower UPS. It can also send web commands on certain alerts. One of the alerts is "Utility Power Loss". Great, so I can once again use this to send a REST command to the ISY through my computer. I'm a firm believer of "Use What You Got", so this is my solution: I decided to use my existing I/O linc which I am using for my remote computer reset device. As you can see from the pics, the N.O contacts are used with two wires that parallel up with the power switch of my computer. This was a short term band aid for the "Dreaded Windows 10 Blue Screen of Death". I use the Sense and GND terminals with two more wires that go to an open/close sensor. This did require a little trial and error as when I was testing the use of this device (open/close sensor), it worked perfectly. The wire I was using was the same wire that comes with the Insteon 74551 Garage Door Control & Status Kit. The wire length is approximately 10' long. After doing my testing and being confident this setup was working, I decided to cut the wires to length, about 6", and two way tape the open/close sensor to the I/O linc. Unfortunately, when I tested my final setup it was no longer functioning. At first I thought it to be the close proximity of the I/O linc , so I pulled the Open/Close sensor off the I/O linc and left it hanging down. Still didn't function. I reconnected the 10' wires and voila it worked. So for now, I have 10' of wire connected from the I/O linc to the Open/Close sensor. Can someone chime in for an explanation of short wire vs long wire? Thanks to all for your recommendations PhanTomiZ

Hi, I have a wireless thermostat that I use in my son's basement bedroom to control a small 120 vac oil filled heater in the winter and a dehumidifier in the summer. It is wired to a wall wart, so I get a pretty good response time on status. For the summer months the TStat is off and I monitor the humidity level to control an On/Off module, via program only, which is connected to the dehumidifier. In the winter months, the TStat is on HEAT and I use the HEAT CTRL in a scene with the same On/Off module for the oil filled heater. I use a program to control the HEAT Setpoints for day/night settings. Today, after almost two months of cold weather, I decided to have a look at why the display on the TStat doesn't reflect what the admin console is reporting. Actually up until tonight the "current state" on the admin console was showing blank. I downloaded once again the manual and decided to go through the settings. I found that Sub-mode 05: Chose whether the Internal or External temperature sensor initiates commands (Internal default) was set to "E". I've had this TStat in operation with a wall wart for almost 2 years without ever having any issues. Not sure how it got changed from "I" to "E", but nonetheless, I switched it back to "I" and I now have a reported "current state" in the admin console. As far as operation is concerned, it functions as it should when looking at the information on the display. The same cannot be said about when looking at the admin console. It seems the "current state" is not reflective of what the TStat is reporting. I believe the response time was better in the past, but presently it is very slow to respond. (Actual temperature on the TStat Vs "current state" in admin console. Anyone have any ideas on the slow response time? My wired TStat which is connected to my FAG furnace is very responsive and I even have another wired TStat connected to a 24 Vac wall wart that is also very responsive. PhanTomiZ

I can't create a program where IF - Control is used to check "is not Responding". Only a IF - Status program will do that. Unless you can tell me something I don't know yet? Also, this program would have to be re-evaluated every minute or so to check for a or many devices not responding . PhanTomiZ

I use these sensors... 1 in my bathroom to keep track of humidity by turning on and off the exhaust fan and turning off the lights with motion sensor. One in bedroom to regulate heat by controlling my floor vent. I also have one outside to tell me the outside temp,humidity, UV and motion. Aeon multisensor 6. Can get them on ebay for about $35 to $45 each. Simple enough? Cheap enough? PhanTomiZ

Too many separate responses, so I'll respond to all.... My main computer, DSL modem(Dry Loop), ISY, monitors and 1 camera are all on UPS. Good for about 35 minutes of run time. I didn't even realize the power went out until my wife came running upstairs to ask me what was wrong with the power. Threat of an ice storm today, but didn't materialize; only lots of rain. I did notice that my cameras went dead, so I'm thinking of possibly sending information from them to the ISY as some sort of a heartbeat. If more than 3 go dead then the power must be out. When they come back on, then I could send my Query. When the power was out, I was able to use the "udAjax" interface in Windows to lock and unlock my door. Also sent commands to my EcoVents to open/close. Both battery operated devices. So the commands for Z-Wave from my ISY on UPS made it to my Z-Wave lock and EcoVents. A great idea is using the UPS when it goes into discharge vs charging. Setting up a State Variable with this device may work also. Thanks danbutter. Another great idea is using a micro module sense wire to line. This would require the purchase of such device, but nonetheless another solution. Thanks stusviews. Finally, the I/O Linc and an open/close sensor. Thanks Teken... I'm sorta old school and like the "KISS" approach to things. It's even better if I can use what I've got, to come up with solutions. Thanks to all for the responses and I will get back to you when I've completed my task. It's great to have access to such a keen community. PhanTomiZ

Just thought it would be a good idea to have control of my Z-Wave door locks. Using RF ID tags through Tasker/ISY to unlock my side door. The PLM isn't on the UPS only the ISY. I'd like to do a "Query All" when power is restored to make sure all devices have the correct status.

I quickly scrolled down and looks like your using CTs to determine power. I will study this tonight when I get done with supper. Thanks again

Yes, but the ISY is on a UPS, so it never restarts...

Hi, Today, had a power outage for about 25 minutes. When the power came back up, I had one device that had lost its status. Status was off when it was actually on. A quick "Query All" and the status was refreshed. What I'd like to do is run Query all whenever power has been restored. From the devices I already have in my system, what devices can I use to help me determine when the power has been restored? Any ideas would be appreciated PhanTomiZ P.S. Can't use the ISY as it is on a UPS. Devices: Insteon Dimmers On/Off Modules Keypad Links both Dimmers and On/Off I/O Lincs Thermostats wired and wireless Switchlincs both Dimmer and On/Off Insteon LED Light bulbs

Got it...Thanks again...

Sure makes sense. I'm glad I haven't had to replace/repair my PLM and I didn't even think of scene membership. Didn't know about the HDS; I don't have any. So, should I be adding Write Device Updates to my LS HB programs? Leak Sensor Base Bath HB - [iD 004D][Parent 0129] If Control 'Furnace RM / Devices / Leak Sensor Base Bath - Dry / Leak Sensor Base Bath-HB' is switched On Or Control 'Furnace RM / Devices / Leak Sensor Base Bath - Dry / Leak Sensor Base Bath-HB' is switched Off Then Wait 25 hours Send Notification to 'Default' content 'Default Subject' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Hi, I too looked for this function, but couldn't find it as I don't have the Pro Version... Glad, I saw this post. It saves me much running up/down ladders and stairs, in and out doors,etc... I understand the reasoning to write updates to the MS as they have options like "Time out" & "LED Brightness" etc., but why would one "Write Updates" to devices that don't have options like leak sensors, open/close sensors, HDS etc.? I currently use the generic HB programs for all my open/close and leak sensors to notify me of a missed heartbeat. Thanks PhanTomiz

These are not switches, but the only Z-Wave device I currently have that responds to "Control" is my Kwikset 910 Deadbolt Locks (Lock, Unlock, Jammed,Tamper and Battery). Battery has Battery Low, Critically Low and Too Low To Operate. For me, with 4 On/Off cycles per day, when it's Critically Low, they will last about 1 month. My other Z-Wave devices are switches and they do not work with Control as you stated. PhanTomiZ

Teken, Can you send me the link too... You wouldn't happen to have links for the leak detector and the dimmer module. I have one of each that are out of order. Thanks in advance PhanTomiZ

Hello, This was happening to me when I would try to get the ISY to send email notifications. I was using Gmail and not just 2 months prior, I changed to the two step verification. With this, you have to sign in to Google and setup a specific "App password" for the ISY. You can find this in Google under the "Sign-in & Securtiy" tab. Copy that password and paste it in the ISY as your email password. Lately, I've been trying to configure my IP Cameras and every once and a while I forget this process. PhanTomiZ

I thought the general rule of thumb was to use Scenes as much as possible and programs secondary. So if the ISY craps out, then your program will no longer have control of this device; therefore, if the MS is "On only" then the device or devices it is controlling will stay in the last state for as long as the ISY is down. That being said, my ISY has been chugging along for 62.5 days since my last update and has not crashed. Come to think of it, it has only crashed once in the last year or since installing ... Of all my MS, only one is setup where it is "On only" in the settings as I wish to adjust the timeout via another program.

I have many motion sensors. I use both "on" and "Off" commands. If you have your sensors set to ON only then how do you use these sensors in "scenes"? For every scene, you would need a resulting program to turn devices off?