Brian H

I believe also if you want an on signal sent when the sensor is grounded. You have to link it with the sensor grounded. If you link it when not grounded. You get an on when open and off when closed.

Jack; That information maybe a help on finding the problem. I was asked if I was using added modules in my 1941 thread. Some with the problem. Also where using added modules.

Do you have any of the optional modules installed? I have Weatherbug and the Network Modules.

OK will keep you informed. Only thing so far was a RED! one time next to the ntp time address area. I looked at the wiki and latest pdf file and didn't see a red! mentioned. I believe it means that it could not get the time data. I believe the log showed something like that also.

Networking Weatherbug. Both Installed 08/17/2009 This was the first time it happend to me. I did notice a log note of: 0 CLI-WBu System -140005 as the last correct dated entry. That said I do see an occasional 0 WBug System -14???? Entry but maybe one a day and I do 60 second updates. I thought that maybe just an error accessing the site from time to time. I am trying 6 hours on 2.north-america.pool.ntp.org right now.

OK will give it a try. I use 24 hour intervals. Do you want more often?

This morning my ISY99i changed its date to Monday 08/25/1941. Sunrise 12:16:12 AM. Sunset 12:07:09 PM. My 4:50 AM program ran at around 9:00 AM and that is how I noticed it. This was at approximately 9:00 AM EDT of Saturday 09/12/2009. I have a custom location matching my towns coordinates. Sync every 24 hours. pool.ntp.org is the address used. The 4:50 AM and 6:40 AM scenes ran normally this morning. So the change must have happened between 6:40 AM and 9:00 AM today. Have turned off auto sync for now and will occasionally just do a sync to computer time. A sync to computer corrected the time; date and Sunrise and Sunset times. 2.7.6 firmware with weather and network plug ins. I did save the LOG in txt form.

Could you give a few details on the hardware being used?

That is good news. Glad you now have lights.

Nice to hear you are one BIG step closer to solving all the issues. Thanks for the update. I does sound like the repeaters where resending each others signals in a never ending loop. One more point. A module with an Insteon module with an X10 address. When locally toggled sends the X10 address on; off or % of dim on its primary address. Well that is how my older ones work. I have no data on what may have changed in present versions.

Do you have a firewall and if you do. What program is it?

Did you also get a new 2412S PLM with the ISY99i? The HL2 special one is known to give problems with anything but with HL2.

Only reason I asked was; some have been reported to go into firestorms; in automation forums. Not just in Insteon Installations. I know my Smarthome Dryer Outlet one was touchy and ACT CR134 was getting touchy also. My XTB-IIR seems to be stable and not a problem with Insteon signals. I have also seen the Leviton HCA02 being reported as a problem with the X10 CM15A Controller.

Wow what a X10 signal firestorm as shown in your log. Are any of the firestorm X10 addresses a valid one in your system? Do you have any X10 Repeaters between the phases, in your setup? If so what brand and model.

It is explained in the ISY99 Users Guide recently released. Page 42 The Status is of an IF condition in the program. Currently True or False. http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/i ... rguide.pdf The RemoteLinc's I have in use. Have all the devices they control in their Link Tables. My ISY99i also knows the links to each button. As I used it to add and subtract device from the individual buttons. When I use the All On or All Off button. All the devices from the individual buttons follow. If the device that did not go off was not in the RemoteLincs Link Table. It will not go off. I believe that a Group Command is used for Scenes and a Direct Command to individual modules from the console. You may have a communications problem and the duplicate line gives you a better shot on the message getting there. Have you tried a Scene Test for the problem scenes? Maybe the Event Viewer in level 3 may also show some useful data for the problem area. Are there any X10 commands mixed into the scenes in question? I know I added two second waits in my mixed scenes. To allow my XTB-IIR Repeater coupler to send X10 and not step on Insteon Commands.

Have you done any of the built in diagnostic tests to the problem lights? Maybe a scene test for the garage lights may give you a clue. Or with Event Viewer in Level 3 and a query to the lights. The log file may also show some data. It sounds like a communications problem and I have also had devices show as ON when they missed the commands. I believe a scene command does not follow up with a status check of each module in the scene. So if an ON was sent by the ISY-99i; the My Lighting Screen will show On; while the module stayed off. A Query to the Scene in question or to My Lighting would then correct the display to what each module state was.

It is a default and mine looks like the one Mark has. I believe it is not 100% needed as I deleted mine in error once. The system still was fine. I later readded it manually.

Thank you for the detailed manual. It is a great help in my questions as is the wiki.

In the configuration tab. Isn't the check box's for Catchup Schedules at restart and Missed Scheduled Grace Period are for?

I agree that for the Door and Window Sensor. A TriggerLinc and magnetic switch maybe better for some installations. I believe the I/OLinc kit may have been released before the TriggerLinc was being sold. I did get the Flood Stop Sensor [part of the now on hold I/OLinc Flood Detector Kit] to work with my kit. Had to add a few electronic parts to get the proper on off sense with water. I also had to use the +5 Volt output from the I/OLinc to do what I wanted. I found a problem with the Proximity Switch Kit and posted my findings. So far; one month now; Smarthome still has not updated the on line Quick Start Guide to fix the hung On relay problem.

If you have not looked at the I/OLinc data on the wiki. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... 27s_Manual Many do use the sensor input for varied tasks. Smarthome sells many of their I/OLinc kits that use the Sensor Input to trigger an event or toggle modules linked to it. Rain Sensor, Remote Door Strike, Telephone Ringing Detector to name a few.

I don't think the exact revision where the change was reported. I know my Rev 2.0 and 2.1 are the old style without an Air Gap switch and are reset in the earlier method. Did you know the Rev 5.0 and above now have a Load Sensing connection and the Load can be isolated from the Line? It is now rated at 15 amps also. Yes the full manual looks like it has not been updated. Maybe the wiki pages will have more data. New Guick Guide for Rev 5.0: http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/2476sqs.pdf http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?title=2476S_Manual

Yes the older SLR and Icons had no Air Gap Switch and the alternate reset was used. The new units now have the Air Gap Switch. So your older ones are normal.

That sensor relies on the conductance of the water it is detecting. It is not a dry closure like a switch contact and maybe hundreds of ohms when wet. That can lead to all kinds of problems; if the TriggerLinc needs a good low resistance closure to be reliable. I did read correctly. You only are using the sensor and not the whole Moisture meter Board that has added electronic parts to interface with the moisture sensor. Smarthome is using a similar sensor in their Flood Detect Kit with an I/OLinc and some are having problems with theirs. I measured my sensor wet [looks bigger than the one you have and may have more surface area] and it measures eight hundreds ohms when wet with my water that corrodes copper pipes from the inside. Just found their Flood Detector Kit is marked as "Unavailable while improvements and enhancements are added." IMHO the sensor will be different in the updated kit. Side note. My I/OLinc's sensor LED can be partially on with a resistive load but not be pulled low enough to trigger the event. My tests show 1000 Ohms where a I/OLInc is marginally triggered.

There is a users manual for the I/OLinc on Smarthome's wiki. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... %27s_Guide No sure if it will assist you in understanding the I/OLinc.